DROPS / 200 / 2

Desert Whispers by DROPS Design

Knitted dress in DROPS Cotton Light. The piece is worked top down, with lace pattern, garter stitch and stockinette stitch. Sizes S – XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no cl-092
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 80-88-96-108-120-132 cm = 31 1/2”-34 5/8”-37 3/4”-42 1/2”-47 1/4”-52”
Full length: 80-82-84-86-88-90 cm = 31 1/2”-32 1/4”-33”-33 7/8”-34 5/8”-35 1/2”

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
450-500-550-600-650-700 g color 28, yellow

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 60 cm = 24” or 80 cm = 32” for the whole piece.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3,5 MM = US E/4 for buttonhole straps.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 521: 3 items in all sizes.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 1.30 $ /50g
DROPS Cotton Light uni colour DROPS Cotton Light uni colour 1.30 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.70$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge in height = 2 rounds; Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1, A.2, A.3, A.4 and A.5. Choose diagram A.1/A.2 for your size.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 100 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 32) = 3.1.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 3rd stitch. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2:
Increase with yarn over, work the yarn over twisted on next round.
When increasing stitches at 1st, 3rd, 4th and 6th marker, make 1 yarn over. On the next round, knit the yarn over twisted.
When increasing stitches at the 2nd and 5th marker, make 1 yarn over on each side of 2 knit stitches (the marker sits between these 2 stitches). On the next round, work the yarn overs twisted and continue in garter stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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DRESS – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The yoke with button-band on the back is worked back and forth with circular needle, top down. Then stitches are bind off for armholes and the piece is continued in the round.

YOKE:
Cast on 100-104-108-114-118-124 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and Cotton Light. Knit 1 row from the wrong side. Work 1 RIDGE – see description above. Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 32-36-40-42-46-50 stitches evenly spaced - READ INCREASE TIP! = 132-140-148-156-164-174 stitches on row. Purl 1 row from the wrong side.

READ THE WHOLE OF THIS SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Now work according to diagrams A.1 and A.2 in the different sizes as follows, from the right side:
SIZES S, M and L: Work 3 band stitches in GARTER STITCH, work A.1 until there are 3 stitches left and 3 band stitches in GARTER STITCH.
SIZES XL, XXL and XXXL: Work 3 band stitches in GARTER STITCH, work A.2 until there are 3 stitches left and 3 band stitches in GARTER STITCH.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! On the row marked with arrow, increase 40-44-50-52-56-62 stitches evenly spaced. Repeat the diagram and increase a total of 4-3-4-3-3-3 times in height.

SIZES M, XL, XXL and XXXL: Work the diagram 1 more time in height, but at the arrow increase 48-54-62-64 stitches.

ALL SIZES:
The diagram has now been worked 4 times in all sizes and there are 292-320-348-366-394-424 stitches on the needle. The piece measures approx. 14-14-14-17-17-17 cm = 5 1/2”-5 1/2”-5 1/2”-6 3/4”-6 3/4”-6 3/4”. Continue working according to diagram A.1/A.2 (without increasing) and with 3 band stitches in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 15-16-17-18-19-20 cm = 6”-6 1/4”-6 3/4”-7”-7 1/2”-8” from the cast-on edge. The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side: Work 3 band stitches in garter stitch, purl 36-41-46-48-53-59 stitches (= half back piece), knit 68-72-76-81-85-88 stitches (= sleeve), purl 78-88-98-102-112-124 stitches (= front piece), knit 68-72-76-81-85-88 stitches (= sleeve), purl 36-41-46-48-53-59 stitches and finish with 3 band stitches in garter stitch= half back piece).
Work as follows from the right side: Knit the first 39-44-49-51-56-62 stitches, bind off the next 68-72-76-81-85-88 stitches (= sleeve), knit 78-88-98-102-112-124 stitches (= front piece), bind off the next 68-72-76-81-85-88 stitches (= sleeve) and knit to end of row. You have now bind off stitches for the armholes in each side.

BODY:
You now work in the round (start the round mid back). Knit 39-44-49-51-56-62 stitches, cast on 8-8-8-12-14-14 new stitches in the side, knit 78-88-98-102-112-124 stitches, cast on 8-8-8-12-14-14 new stitches in the side and knit 39-44-49-51-56-62 stitches = 172-192-212-228-252-276 stitches.
Continue with stockinette stitch, but the 8-8-8-12-14-14 new stitches on each side are worked in GARTER STITCH – see description above.
When the piece measures 8-8-9-9-10-10 cm = 3 1/8”-3 1/8”-3 1/2”-3 1/”-4”-4” from the division, insert 6 markers in the piece (start mid back) as follows:

Work 13-15-17-17-19-21 stitches in stockinette stitch and place 1st marker in the last of these stitches. Work 26-29-32-34-37-41 stitches in stockinette stitch, work 4-4-4-6-7-7 stitches in garter stitch and place 2nd marker on needle here. Work 4-4-4-6-7-7 stitches in garter stitch, work 27-30-33-35-38-42 stitches in stockinette stitch and place 3rd marker in the last of these stitches. Work 25-29-33-33-37-41 stitches in stockinette stitch and place 4th marker in the last of these stitches. Work 26-29-32-34-37-41 stitches in stockinette stitch, work 4-4-4-6-7-7 stitches in garter stitch and place 5th marker on needle here. Work 4-4-4-6-7-7 stitches in garter stitch, work 27-30-33-35-38-42 stitches in stockinette stitch and place 6th marker in the last of these stitches. Work 12-14-16-16-18-20 stitches in stockinette stitch to the beginning of the round. Continue in stockinette stitch and garter stitch as before and increase as follows on next round:
Increase 1 stitch before 1th and 4th marker, increase 1 stitch after 3rd and 6th marker. Increase 2 stitches at 2nd and 5th marker – READ INCREASE TIP-2! = 8 stitches increased on round.
Repeat this increase every 13th-13th-13th-14th-14th-15th round a total of 11-11-11-10-10-10 times – AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 43-44-45-46-47-48 cm from the division, work diagram A.3 over the garter stitches on each side (adjust so that the increases are made on a knitted round in A.3). When all the increases are finished there are 260-280-300-308-332-356 stitches on the needle.
When the piece measures 56-57-58-59-61-61 cm = 22"-22 1/2"-22 3/4"-23 1/4"-24"-24" from the division, knit 1 round where you increase 10-20-15-22-13-19 stitches evenly spaced = 270-300-315-330-345-375 stitches. Work diagram A.4 over all stitches (in sizes L, XXL and XXXL knit 1 stitch at the end of the 4th round so the stitches fit). After diagram A.4 work diagram A.5 over all stitches. When diagram A.5 is finished, bind off with knit on the next round. The piece measures approx. 61-62-63-64-65-66 cm = 24”-24 3/8”-24 3/4”-25 1/4”-25 1/2”-26” from the division and approx. 80-82-84-86-88-90 cm = 31 1/2”-32 1/4”-33”-33 7/8”-34 5/8”-35 1/2” from the shoulder.

ASSEMBLY:
Crochet 3 buttonhole straps along left side on opening at the back.
1 strap = work with hook size 3.5 mm = US E/4 and Cotton Light as follows: 1 single crochet in edge stitch at the top by neck, 4 chain stitches and then 1 slip stitch in the same stitch as the single crochet was worked in, fasten off. Work 2 more straps along the opening. Sew buttons on to the right side of opening.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 20.03.2019
Correction - BODY: When the piece measures 56-57-58-59-61-61 cm = 22"-22 1/2"-22 3/4"-23 1/4"-24"-24" from the division, knit 1 round where you increase 10-20-15-22-13-19 stitches evenly spaced = 270-300-315-330-345-375 stitches. + Updated increase tip-2

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= knit from wrong side, purl from right side
= knit 2 together
= 1 yarn over between 2 stitches
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
= increase-round; explained in text


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 200-2) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (26)

Anke Lenaerts 10.05.2020 - 19:57:

Voor mij zijn de meerderingen niet zo duidelijk bij tips meerderen-2. Als ik moet meerderen bij markeerder 2 en 5, moet ik dan meerderen 1 steek voor die markeerder? Anders zijn er 2 omslagen achter elkaar. Moet je er ook voor zorgen dat de omslag uitkomt op de averechtse steek bij de ribbel, zodat deze in de volgende naald verdraaid rechts kan gebreid worden of maakt dat niet uit?

DROPS Design 13.05.2020 kl. 11:30:

Dag Anke,

Je meerdert steeds 1 steek voor of na de markeerdraad. Dus het gaat dan als volgt: 1 steek meerderen door 1 omslag te maken, 1 steek breien, maarkeerdraad, 1 steek breien, 1 steek meerderen. Op de volgende naald brei je de omslag gedraaid. Er stond bij de tip voor het meederen dat je hem gedraaid recht moest breien, maar dit heb ik nu aangepast naar gedraaid breien. Dus het maakt niet uit of je de meerderingen op een rechte of averechte naald maakt.

Mariona 30.04.2020 - 08:28:

Hola! Llevo ya lo que sería hasta la cintura, y llevo ya hechas 7 hileras de aumentos. Parece que va a quedar bastante corto... Pero en la fotografía, puedo apreciar al menos 14 aumentos, mientras que en las instrucciones se dice aumentar así un total de 11-10 veces. Podríais confirmarme cuántas veces hay que aumentar? Por otro lado, como lo voy a querer más largo, para no quedarme sin lana... sabríais decirme cuántos gr hacen falta para la cenefa final? Gracias

Susanne 26.04.2020 - 10:01:

Ich würde das Kleid gerne als Shirt stricken. Wieviel Wolle würde ich dann brauchen? Vielen Dank für Ihre Hilfe.

DROPS Design 27.04.2020 kl. 09:08:

Liebe Susanne, leider können wir nicht jede Anleitung nach jedem individuellen Wunsch anpassen, hier finden Sie Tops, von oben nach unten gestrickt und Tops mit Rundpasse hier. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Anna 05.11.2019 - 11:57:

Sehr schadey, das es kein Bild von der Rückseite gibt!

Cornelia 09.08.2019 - 13:25:

Hat sich hier nicht ein Fehler eingeschlichen? PASSE: ...... 1 Hin-Reihe rechts stricken und dabei 32-36-40-42-46-50 Maschen gleichmäßig verteilt zunehmen – ZUNAHMETIPP LESEN! = 132-140-148-156-164-174 Maschen auf der Nadel. 1 Rück-Reihe links stricken. Müsste es nicht heissen: 1 Rück-Reihe rechts stricken. Es handelt sich hier doch um eine Krausreihe in Reihen

DROPS Design 09.08.2019 kl. 14:19:

Liebe Cornelia, die erste Reihe wird hier eine Rückreihe sein, die stricken Sie rechts, dann 1 Hinreihe rechts + 1 Rückreihe rechts = 1 Krausrippe, dann bei der nächsten Hinreihe gleichmäßig verteilt zunehmen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Sunniva Holmbek 12.07.2019 - 20:15:

Flott kjole, men måtte ned 1 strørrelse og pinne- størrelse i forhold til vanlig. Sluttresultatet ble perfekt! Morsomt og rask å strikke.

France 10.06.2019 - 18:15:

Hi le premier rang tricoté à l'envers est il bien l'endroit du tricot . Merci!

DROPS Design 11.06.2019 kl. 11:57:

Bonjour France, le tout premier rang tricoté après avoir monté les mailles est un rang sur l'envers, le premier rang sur l'endroit sera le rang suivant (= le 2ème tricoté après avoir monté les mailles). Bon tricot!

Anna 21.05.2019 - 17:51:

Forslag til forbedring av oppskriften - gjelder avsnittet Bærestykke. Etter den første økningen står det: Strikk 1 pinne vrang fra vrangen. Det burde stått at de 3 første og siste maskene skal strikkes i rille til stolpen.

Thea 15.05.2019 - 14:10:

Kan ik de pas ook in de rondte breien? Ik vind een knoopsluiting niet mooi en hij staat helaas ook niet op de foto.

DROPS Design 15.05.2019 kl. 21:11:

Dag Thea,

Er zit een knoopbies op het achterpand (en die zie je inderdaad helaas niet op de foto). Je kan deze weglaten en vanaf het begin in de rondte breien. Zorg er wel voor dat je dan niet te strak opzet, zodat de halsopening wijd genoeg blijft.

Helga 07.05.2019 - 08:27:

En los aumentos del canesú para talla M, 140+44+44+44+54=326 y ahí dice 320, debo contar el musgo de orilla aparte?

DROPS Design 07.05.2019 kl. 10:25:

Hola Helga. Los aumentos para la talla M son 140+44+44+44+48=320. Mira las explicaciones en el patrón.

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