DROPS / 202 / 6

Raspberry Kiss by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with raglan in DROPS Belle. Piece is knitted top down with lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern vs-058
Yarn group B
----------------------------------------------------------

SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
300-350-400-400-450-500 g colour no 11, old pink

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm, length 40 and 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm, length 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON Flower (pink), NO 616: 5 pieces for all sizes

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 1.80 £ /50g
DROPS Belle uni colour DROPS Belle uni colour 1.80 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 10.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
----------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

----------------------------------------------------------

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1-A.2). Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly):
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 118 stitches), minus bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 3) = 36.
In this example decrease by knitting every 35th and 36th stitch together.

DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to body and sleeves):
All decreases are done from the right side!
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of A.6 as follows: Work until 2 stitches remain before A.6 and knit 2 together, knit A.6, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

INCREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 189 stitches), minus bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 24) = 7.5.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately every 7th and 8th stitch. On next row (wrong side) work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

RAGLAN:
All increases are done from the right side.
Increase 1 stitch in each side of 3 knit stitches in every transition between front/back piece and sleeves (= 8 stitches increased on row). Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next row (wrong side) purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitch in stocking stitch on sleeves and work pattern on front and back piece.

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Decrease from right side when 3 stitches remain on row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit the next 2 stitches together, knit last stitch. On next row knit yarn over to make holes.
Decrease first buttonhole when rib in neck measures approx. 1½-2 cm. Then decrease the next 4 approx. 7-7-8-8-9-9 cm between each.

----------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

----------------------------------------------------------

JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle, top down.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 118-118-123-128-138-143 stitches on circular needle size 3 mm with Belle. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work rib as follows from right side: 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above, (knit 3/purl 2) until 8 stitches remain on needle, knit 3, 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this until rib measures 2 cm - remember BUTTONHOLES - read explanation above. Knit 1 row while decreasing 3-3-2-7-1-6 stitches evenly - read DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly) = 115-115-121-121-137-137 stitches. Purl 1 row from wrong side (work the 5 band stitches in garter stitches).

YOKE:
Switch to circular needle size 4 mm. Work in PATTERN - read explanation above, as follows:
5 band stitches in garter stitch, knit 0-0-1-1-0-0, A.1 over the next 16-16-16-16-21-21 stitches, make 1 yarn over, knit 2, insert a marker thread here (= left front piece), knit 1, make 1 yarn over, knit 15, make 1 yarn over, knit 1, insert a marker thread here (= sleeve), knit 2, 1 yarn over, A.2 over the next 3-3-5-5-7-7 stitches, A.3a over the next 14-14-14-14-16-16 stitches, A.3b over the next 11-11-11-11-13-13 stitches, A.4 over the next 3-3-5-5-7-7 stitches, make 1 yarn over, knit 2, insert a marker thread here (= back piece), knit 1, make 1 yarn over, knit 15, make 1 yarn over, knit 1, insert a marker thread here (= sleeve), knit 2, make 1 yarn over, A.5 over the next 16-16-16-16-21-21 stitches, knit 0-0-1-1-0-0, 5 band stitches in garter stitch (= right front piece). 8 stitches have been increased for RAGLAN - read explanation above. Continue pattern back and forth like this and increase every other row 24-26-29-32-35-38 times in total = 307-323-353-377-417-441 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION. When diagrams have been worked 1 time vertically, continue pattern the same way. When all increases for raglan are done, piece measures approx. 19-21-23-25-27-29 cm from cast-on edge and down mid front. Work next row as follows: NOTE: In size S and L divide the piece for sleeves and body at the marker threads. In size M, XL, XXL and XXXL work some of the stitches (= 1-2-1-3 stitches) on sleeves on to needle for body, so that the transition between body and sleeves are now longer at the marker threads. Work the first 47-50-53-58-64-69 stitches, slip the next 65-67-75-77-85-87 stitches on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8-10-12-12-12-14 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work the next 83-89-97-107-119-129 stitches (= back piece), slip the next 65-67-75-77-85-87 stitches on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8-10-12-12-12-14 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work the remaining 47-50-53-58-64-69 stitches on needle. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 193-209-227-247-271-295 stitches. Work pattern A.6 (= 8 stitches) over the middle 8 stitches under sleeves, 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards and work as many repetitions of pattern that will fit out towards each side (pattern should fit pattern on yoke!), work the remaining stitches in stocking stitch.
When piece measures 4 cm, decrease 1 stitch on each side of A.6 in each side - read DECREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches decreased) = 189-205-223-243-267-291 stitches. When piece measures 15 cm (adjust to finish after one whole lace pattern vertically and some rounds with stocking stitch), increase 24-28-35-40-46-47 stitches evenly – read INCREASE TIP = 213-233-258-283-313-338 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm. Work rib from right side as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, (knit 3/purl 2) until 8 stitches remain on row, knit 3, 5 band stitches in garter stitch. When rib measures 2 cm, cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Make sure that the cast-off edge is not too tight. Use a larger needle size when casting off. Jacket measures approx. 40-42-44-46-48-50 cm from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 65-67-75-77-85-87 stitches from stitch holder in one side back on a short circular needle/double pointed needles size 4 mm. Pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 8-10-12-12-12-14 stitches under sleeve = 73-77-87-89-97-101 stitches. Continue in the round with stocking stitch and work A.6 over the middle 8 stitches under sleeve. When piece measures 4-4-3-3-3-2 cm, decrease 2 stitches under sleeves - remember DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease in the different sizes as follows:
Size S: Decrease like this on alternately every 2 and 3 cm 11 times in total.
Size M: Decrease like this every 2 cm 12 times in total.
Size L: Decrease like this on every 1,5 cm 16 times in total.
Size XL: Decrease like this on every 1,5 cm 16 times in total.
Size XXL: Decrease like this every cm 19 times in total.
Size XXXL: Decrease like this every cm 20 times in total.
When all decreases on sleeve are done there are 51-53-55-57-59-61 stitches on round. Continue until sleeve measures 31-30-29-27-25-23 cm. Now increase 4-7-5-8-6-9 stitches evenly = 55-60-60-65-65-70 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm. Work rib (knit 3/purl 2) for 2 cm. Cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Make sure that the cast-off edge is not too tight. Use a larger needle size when casting off. Sleeve measures approx. 33-32-31-29-27-25 cm. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to left band.

Diagram

= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next row (from wrong side) purl yarn over to make hole
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together
= Knot: Knit 1 in front and back loop of same stitch until you have increased from 1 to 5 stitches. You now have the 5 stitches on right needle. Pass 2nd stitch (the next to last stitch on right needle) over the outermost stitch, pass 3rd stitch over the outermost stitch, pass 4th stitch over the outermost stitch, pass 5th stitch over first stitch (= 1 knot).








Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 202-6) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (41)

Rita Lugrine 29.07.2020 - 00:28:

My question is about the instructions to begin the body. My sleeves are on salvage yarn and I've already added A.6 and purled back to the beginning. Do I just knit as usual, continuing the pattern as before? I understand the band stitching. And do I begin the pattern at A.6 once I begin knitting the body? Thanks Rita

DROPS Design 29.07.2020 kl. 10:59:

Dear Rita, Yes you begin knitting A.6 once you begin knitting the body and you knit A.6 (= 8 stitches) over the middle 8 stitches under sleeves and from there you work as many repetitions of pattern that will fit out towards each side (pattern should fit pattern on yoke!), Happy Knitting!

Rita Lugrine 29.06.2020 - 00:02:

Hello, As I understand the "design" in the yoke and body of the pattern, I make a knot in the knit row and then I make the purl row. Next knit row is just the raglan increase; then the purl row. At the second knit row without the increase I make the 2nd part of the "design". And then the same process for the bottom of the design. When I'm done the small "textures" are not as tightly knit as I see on the photo of the sweater. Can you explain what I am missing? Thanks, Rita

DROPS Design 29.06.2020 kl. 09:05:

Dear Mrs Lugrine, all rows of patterns are drawn in chart, ie the lace pattern including knot is worked over 5 rows (+last row from WS) and you will at the same time increase for raglan on every row from RS. Happy kniting!

Julie 22.06.2020 - 12:10:

Bonjour à nouveau! Je n'ai plus besoin de votre aide car tout est bien renseigné sur votre site! Avec toutes mes excuses! Je n'avais pas bien regardé 🙃 Julie

DROPS Design 22.06.2020 kl. 14:30:

oops Merci Julie, répondu avant de lire votre commentaire, merci et bonne continuation!

Julie 22.06.2020 - 10:17:

Bonjour, Je ne comprends pas l'indication suivante:"Quand les diagrammes ont été tricotés 1 fois en hauteur, continuer de la même façon" dans l'empiecement. Il n'y a plus de diagramme qui tienne compte des augmentations ni des motifs supplémentaires à tricoter et je ne vois pas comment poursuivre l'empiecement... merci de votre aide.

DROPS Design 22.06.2020 kl. 14:12:

Bonjour Jullie, vous continuez simplement à tricoter comme avant, vous augmentez tous les 2 tours et incorporez les nouvelles mailles dans le point fantaisie comme vous l'avez fait pour les premiers rangs, et répétez les autres motifs en hauteur/largeur comme avant également. Bon tricot!

Julie 15.06.2020 - 11:49:

Hi thank you for the reply...can I just confirm. I am increasing by the 8 stitches however the diagrams (A1, A2, A4 & A5) only increase by 1 stitch each...therefore I have 8 new stitches but only seem to work 4 of them into the pattern....where am I going wrong ?? Help !!

DROPS Design 15.06.2020 kl. 16:15:

Dear Julie, you are increasing 8 stitches on every row from RS: 1 stitch at the end of left front piece (= A.1), 1 st at the beg + 1 st at the end of sleeve, 1 st at the beg of back piece (= A.2) + 1 st at the end of back piece (= A.4), 1 st at the beg + 1 st at the end of sleeve + 1 st at the beg of front piece (= A.5) = 8 sts on round, but only 1 st in the diagrams. Happy knitting!

Julie 15.06.2020 - 00:47:

I am working the yoke & have increased to 123 stitches. When I try to work the next increase row I have stitches not worked into the pattern. I am increasing each time by 8 stitches but the pattern only increases by 4 stitches on the diagrams A1, A2, A4 & A5.... am I overlooking something. Hope you can help because I love the jacket.

DROPS Design 15.06.2020 kl. 09:56:

Dear Julie, you increase for raglan 8 sts on every RS row, ie you increase 1 stitch on each front piece, 2 sts on back piece and on each sleeves - the new sts are drawn in the diagrams. Happy knitting!

Rita Lugrine 05.06.2020 - 03:39:

In the yoke, after the first knit row with the 8 increases I have a total of 123 stitches, including the band. Is that correct? When I begin the 2nd row of the pattern (after the purl row) I find I have stitches remaining on my working needle. I think there is something I don't understand in the increases or the design of the pattern. Would you know why I am having this problem? I love this sweater but the pattern has me stumped. Thanks Rita

DROPS Design 05.06.2020 kl. 07:46:

Dear Mrs Lugrine, if you are working first or 2nd size (starting yoke with 115 sts), then you have 123 sts after first increase row (= + 8 sts). Then just work 1 row from WS as shown in the diagrams and in stocking st. On next row from WS repeat increases as before = on either side of the 2 raglan sts where you inserted markers and increased before. Happy knitting!

Dorte Hallenslev 01.06.2020 - 09:45:

Jeg er ved at strikke denne model, men forstår ikke rigtig det med mønster A6, skal det strikkes i siden på blusen , altså faktisk der hvor man ville sy den sammen? og skal A6 også være på selve ærmet eller er ærmet kun glatstrikning??

DROPS Design 03.06.2020 kl. 15:31:

Hei Dorte. Ja, du skal felle i hver side av A.6 både i sidene og under ermene. MEN du har ingen sidesøm, du strikker høyre -, bakstykket og venstre forstykket samtidig/ i et stykke. Du strikker A.6 på undersiden av ermet, resten av ermet er i glattstrikk, ermene strikkes rundt. mvh DROPS design

Bas 30.04.2020 - 10:10:

Bonjour,\r\nSur l’empiècement, entre A1 et A2, il y a une partie avec 1m, 1j 15m 1j 1m: comment faire pour les rangs endroit suivants sur cette partie? (Pas de diagramme correspondant) 2m 1j 15m, puis rang endroit suivant 3m 1j 15m?\r\nMerci pour avance

DROPS Design 30.04.2020 kl. 10:44:

Bonjour Mme Bas, ces mailles correspondent à celles des manches et se tricotent en jersey - vous devez toujours augmenter comme expliqué au 1er rang, autrement dit après 1 m end et le fil marqueur au début de la manche et avant 1 m end et le fil marqueur à la fin de la manche; autrement dit, à la 2ème augmentation vous aurez: marqueur, 1 m end, 1 jeté, 17 m end, 1 jeté, 1 m end, marqueur. Bon tricot!

Adélaïde 24.04.2020 - 23:59:

Je vous remercie pour votre réponse précédente. J'ai une nouvelle question concernant les manches : le motif A6 doit être tricoté sous les manches, et le reste des manches en jersey. Mais doit-on continuer le motif A6 tout le long de la manche de manière à avoir une ligne de jours sous le bras ? Merci d'avance ! Cordialement

DROPS Design 27.04.2020 kl. 08:02:

Bonjour Adelaïde, tout à fait, A.6 va être tricoté à partir de l'empiècement, autrement dit quand on reprend les mailles des manches et que l'on relève les mailles dans celles des emmanchures et jusqu'aux côtes, puis on tricote toutes les mailles en côtes. Bon tricot!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 202-6

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.