DROPS / 198 / 4

Asta by DROPS Design

Crocheted blanket in DROPS Safran. The piece is worked with lace pattern and squares.

Tags: blankets, lace, square,
DROPS Design: Pattern no e-288
Yarn group A
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SIZE:
Width (including edge): approx. 165 cm = 64 3/4”. Length (including edge): approx. 208 cm = 81 3/4”. Edge = approx. 18 cm = 7”.

MATERIALS:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
1400 g color 17, white

CROCHET GAUGE:
22 double crochets in width and 12 rows in height = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
1 crochet square should measure 21.5 cm x 21.5 cm = 8 1/2” x 8 1/2”.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 MM = US E/4 - or the hook size needed to make a crochet square of 21.5 cm x 21.5 cm = 8 1/2” x 8 1/2”.
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller hook size.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

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DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 1.40 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.8.

CROCHET INFORMATION (for edge):
The first round when working the edge is finished with 1 slip stitch in the first single crochet on the round, and then slip stitches are worked to the first chain-space in the corner.
At the beginning of the other rounds in diagram A.4, you work 3 chain stitches (replace the first double crochet) and finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch on the round and then work slip stitches to the first chain-space in the corner.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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BLANKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
There are 48 crochet squares worked and then sewn together. You work an edge around the whole blanket to finish.

CROCHET SQUARE:
Work 5 chain stitches with hook size 3.5 mm = US E/4 and Safran and form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch. Then work pattern in the round as follows: A.1 (shows how the rounds start and finish), * A.2, A.3 *, work from *-* a total of 3 times and finish with A.2, but on the first round: skip the last 3 double crochets = 24 double crochets and 8 chain spaces. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE. When A.1 to A.3 have been completed in height, the square measures approx. 21.5 cm x 21.5 cm = 8 1/2” x 8 1/2”. Work a total of 48 squares.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the blanket together with 6 crochet squares in width and 8 in length. Sew each square together in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch, first lengthwise and then across.

EDGE:
Start around the chain-space in one corner of the blanket and work the edge as follows – read CROCHET INFORMATION: Work * A.4 around the chain-space in the corner, A.5 to the next corner, but in the transition between each square work 1 single crochet in the seam as shown in diagram A.6 (see black star), work A.7 *, work from *-* a total of 4 times on the round. When the diagrams have been completed in height, repeat the pattern from the arrow with a white star one more time in height and until there is 1 round left in the diagrams. The last round (= next to last round in diagrams) finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round. Cut the strand.
Now work a finishing edge as follows:
Start in the first chain-space after one of the corners and work A.8a around this chain-space, * A.8b to the next corner, A.8c in the corner *, work from *-* a total of 4 times on the round and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first single crochet on the round. Cut and fasten the strand. When is finished, the edge should measure approx. 18 cm = 7”.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= Start here - this chain-stitch ring is described in the text (= 5 chain stitches + 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch). Continue at the symbol over the point on the circle and work towards the left
= 1 chain stitch
= 4 chain stitches
= 3 chain stitches
= 5 chain stitches
= Round starts with 3 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round, then work slip stitches to the first chain-space
= 1 double crochet around chain-stitch ring/chain-space
= 1 double crochet in stitch
= 1 single crochet around chain-space
= 1 single crochet in stitch
= Y = number of chain stitches in chain-space
= start here!
= when pattern in edge is repeated in height, start on this round
= 1 single crochet in seam between squares
= 6 chain stitches
= work 1 single crochet around previous chain-stitch ring worked
= 1 slip stitch in the 4th chain stitch from hook (NOTE: work in same chain stitch 2 more times), 2 double crochets in same chain stitch
= 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch after last single crochet to make a neat chain-stitch ring





Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 198-4) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (10)

Maureen 17.01.2020 - 13:28:

Hello. I have just opened a Faebook page for The Cape Guild of Weavers Crocheters to encourage members to make something amazing for our Guild's 70th anniversary in September. Are you alright with me putting a link to your website for them to get inspiration?

DROPS Design 17.01.2020 kl. 14:32:

Dear Maureen, you are welcome to link our website and/or our patterns - should you need any further informations about the copyright, you'll find them at the bottom of the page. Thank you, enjoy!

Aase 15.11.2019 - 11:15:

Hjælp - Jeg kan ikke finde ud af skabelonen til denne opskrift. A1 viser, hvordan omgangen starter - men den starter også med 3 stangmasker - og så kommer A2 -stangmaskerne i ringen (24 stk) - hvorefter den slutter med 6 stangmasker - A3. Det er vildt ærgerligt, den er så svær, for det er et virkeligt flot tæppe.

DROPS Design 21.11.2019 kl. 15:38:

Hej, du starter med 24 st (den første af de 24 = 3lm) med 3 lm efter hver 3.st. På næste omgang hækler du 3st-3lm-3st i hvert af de 4 "lm-hjørner". Prøv om du kan få hjælp hos din DROPS forhandler, har du først hæklet en rude, så er det enkelt :)

Cecile 15.07.2019 - 12:21:

Ik loop bij derde toer al vast bij patroon 198-4. Bij A1 moeten de stokjes in de lossenlus, maar dat lukt niet, als ik de drie losse heb gemaakt moet ik twee stokjes overslaan alvorens ik bij de lossenlus ben, hierdoor wordt er een extra gaatje gecreëerd, dit is dan bij alle volgende toeren zo. Ik heb het inmiddels al meerdere malen uitgehaald en op andere manier geprobeerd, maar ik blijf er steeds tegenaan lopen. Wat doe ik verkeerd?

DROPS Design 15.07.2019 kl. 13:49:

Dag Cecile,

Heb je ook halve vasten gehaakt tot de eerste lossenlus voordat je de 3 lossen (welke het eerste stokje vervangt) haakt? Zie ook laatste zin bij 'INFORMATIE VOOR HET HAKEN'

Aase 28.04.2019 - 18:31:

Synes jeres design er flotte. Men det er godt nok ikke let med opskrifterne. Fx 198-4. Det er sørme svært at overskue.

Heidi 11.02.2019 - 11:36:

Wat is de omgekeerde v tussen de stokjes in A1 en A3?

DROPS Design 13.02.2019 kl. 11:22:

Dag Heidi,

Dit zijn drie lossen. Dit staat ook aangegeven in de lijst met symbolen.

Kristina 07.02.2019 - 10:21:

Hej. Er det muligt, at få denne opskrift i skreven form, da jeg ikke kan hækle ud fra et diagram. I har så mange fede opskrifter, det er bare super ærgerligt, at man kun kun kan hækle dem, hvis man kan læse diagrammer. Kh Kristina

DROPS Design 11.02.2019 kl. 11:12:

Hei Kristina. Nei, vi har dessverre ikke mulighet til å skrive om oppskriften. Det brukes diagram nettopp fordi det er veldig uoversiktleig å forklare alt med ord. Det kommer snart en leksjon på våre hjemmesider med detaljert informasjon om hvordan man leser heklediagrammer. Du begynner med sirkelen nederst (eller ved pilen) og leser hvert symbol fra høyre mot venstre, rad for rad, nedenfra og opp. Symbolene hekles i akkurat den rekkefølgen de står, i den masken som er rett under (forrige rad). Om det er noe spesielt du lurer på må du gjerne spørre så skal vi hjelpe deg så godt vi kan.

Nicole Schmeitz 24.01.2019 - 12:34:

I like this! 1. Is there a Dutch translation available? 2. Can a order the yarn from the Netherlands? What is the price of shipment?

DROPS Design 24.01.2019 kl. 12:39:

Dear Mrs Schmeitz, edit language under the photo choosing "Nederlands" - you'll then get the list of DROPS retailer in your country in our dutch pages. Happy crocheting!

Anke Van Der Werf 11.01.2019 - 17:08:

Prachtig leuk om te maken

Lina 14.12.2018 - 21:48:

Underbar som överkast!

Laura Waterfield 14.12.2018 - 11:56:

Stunning!

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