DROPS / 195 / 35

Serena by DROPS Design

Crocheted poncho in DROPS Nepal. The piece is worked with crochet squares, lace pattern and stripes. Sizes S - XXXL.

Tags: lace, ponchos, square,
DROPS Design: Pattern no ne-281
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S/M – L/XL – XXL/XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
450-500-550 g color 517, medium grey
150-150-150 g color 501, grey
100-100-100 g color 506, dark grey

CROCHET GAUGE:
13 double crochets in width and 8 rows in height = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
1 crochet square measures approx. 40-44-48 x 40-44-48 cm = 15 3/4”-17 1/4”-19” x 15 3/4”-17 1/4”-19”.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5.5 MM = US I/9.
Hook size is only a guide. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger hook size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller hook size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.75 $ /50g
DROPS Nepal uni colour DROPS Nepal uni colour 2.75 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Nepal mix DROPS Nepal mix 2.85 $ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.50$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3.

STRIPES-1 (for crochet squares back and front):
Chain-stitch ring at beginning of square + ROUNDS 1-2: medium grey.
ROUNDS 3-4: dark grey
ROUNDS 5-6: grey
ROUND 7: medium grey
ROUND 8: dark grey
ROUND 9: medium grey
ROUND 10: grey
ROUND 11: medium grey
ROUND 12: grey
ROUND 13: dark grey
ROUND 14: medium grey
ROUND 15: grey
Size S/M is now finished, for sizes L/XL and XXL/XXXL continue with medium grey.

STRIPES-2 (for bottom edge):
ROUND 1: medium grey
ROUND 2: dark grey
ROUND 3: medium grey
ROUND 4: medium grey

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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PONCHO - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
4 crochet squares are worked and sewn together: 2 single-colored squares and 2 striped squares. An edge is worked at the bottom of the poncho and a neck at the top.

CROCHET SQUARE:
Work 4 chain stitches with hook size 5.5 mm = US I/9 and medium grey. Form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch. Work STRIPES-1- read description above and pattern in the round as follows: Work A.1a – start at arrow - (shows how the rounds start and finish), A.1b a total of 4 times on the round. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! When the crochet square has been completed, it measures approx. 40 x 40 cm = 15 3/4” x 15 3/4”. Size S/M is now finished. For sizes L/XL and XXL/XXXL continue as follows: Work A.2a (shows how the rounds start and finish), * A.2b until there is 1 chain stitch left before the corner. A.2c (= corner) *, work from *-* a total of 4 times on the round, then work A.2b to the end of the round. When you have worked 1 round, size L/XL is finished and the square measures approx. 44 x 44 cm = 17 1/4” x 17 1/4”. For size XXL/XXXL work the last round in the diagrams. When the last round has been worked the square measures approx. 48 x 48 cm ? 19” x 19”.

Work 1 more square in the same way = 2 crochet squares.
Now work 2 single-colored squares in the same way using medium grey. You have now worked a total of 4 crochet squares.

ASSEMBLY:
Lay the crochet squares out as shown in the illustration – see below beside the diagrams and sketch.
1 = crochet square with stripes; 2 = single-colored square.
Work the squares together through both layers from the wrong side as follows: 1 single crochet around chain-space in corner, * work 3 chain stitches, skip 3 double crochets, 1 single crochet around the next chain stitch *, work from *-* along the whole side and finish with 1 single crochet in the next corner. Work the other squares together in the same way. Then finally work together the side marked with a star in the illustration.

BOTTOM EDGE:
Now work the bottom edge as follows:
Start with medium grey in the transition between a single-colored and a striped square – see black spot on sketch, work STRIPES-2 and pattern in the round as follows: Work A.3a (shows how the rounds start and finish), work A.3b as far as the corner mid front, A.3c around the chain-space in the corner, work A.3b as far as the next corner mid back, A.3c and A.3b to the start of the round. Continue in the round like this until A.3a - A.3c have been completed in height. Cut and fasten the strand.

NECK:
The whole neck is worked with medium grey.
Start with medium grey in the chain-space in the corner of the middle crochet square (= mid back), work A.3a (shows how the rounds start and finish), work A.3b around the same chain-space in the corner, * skip the chain-space in the corner of the next square, work A.3b as far as the next corner, skip the chain-space in the corner, work A.3b around the chain-space in the crochet square mid front *, work from *-* 1 more time on the round, but finish as shown in A.3a. When A.3a and A.3c have been completed in height, repeat the last 4 rounds 2 more times (= a total of 3 times in height). Cut and fasten the strand.
Make a twisted cord as follows:

TWISTED CORD AND TASSELS
Cut 4 strands dark grey, 5 metres = 200” in length. Twist them together until they begin to resist, fold them double and they will continue to twist. Tie a knot in each end so that the cord stays twisted. Thread the cord up and down through Round 3 on the neck; start and finish mid front.
Make 1 tassel in each end of the cord:
1 tassel = Cut 11 strands dark grey, 24 cm = 9 1/2” in length. Thread them through the end of the cord and fold them so that all the ends are together (= 24 strand-ends). Cut one more strand, 20 cm = 8” in length and wind it around the strands, approx. 1 cm = 3/8” down from the fold and tie a knot. Trim the strands so that they are even at the bottom. Make 1 more tassel in the same way for the other end of the cord.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= start here - this chain-stitch ring is described in the text. Continue with symbol over point on circle and work towards the left
= 1 chain stitch
= 3 chain stitches
= 4 chain stitches
= 1 sinle crochet around chain-stitch ring/chain-space
= 1 single crochet in stitch
= 1 double crochet around chain-space
= 1 treble crochet around chain-space
= 1 double treble crochet around chain-space
= 1 triple treble crochet around chain-space: Make 4 yarn overs, insert hook around chain-space, pick up strand, * make 1 yarn over and pull it through the first 2 loops on hook *, repeat from *-* 4 more times (= a total of 5 times)
= 3 double crochets around chain-space
= work 2 double crochets together as follows: * Make 1 yarn over, insert hook around chain-space, pick up strand, make 1 yarn over and pull it through the first 2 loops on hook *, work from *-* 1 more time, make 1 yarn over 1 and pull it through all 3 loops on hook
= work 2 treble crochets together as follows: * Make 2 yarn overs, insert hook in stitch, pick up strand, make 1 yarn over and pull it through the first 2 loops on hook, make 1 yarn over and pull it through the next 2 loops on hook *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, make 1 yarn over and pull it through all 3 loops on hook
= work 2 double treble crochets together as follows: * Make 3 yarn overs, insert hook around chain-space, pick up strand, make 1 yarn over and pull it through the first 2 loops on hook, make 1 yarn over and pull it through the next 2 loops on hook, make a yarn over and pull it through the next 2 loops on hook *, work from *-* one more time, make 1 yarn over and pull it through all 3 loops on hook
= work 2 triple treble crochets together as follows: * Make 4 yarn overs, insert hook around chain-space, pick up strand, make 1 yarn over and pull it through the first 2 loops on hook, make 1 yarn over and pull it through the next 2 loops on hook, make 1 yarn over and pull it through the next 2 loops on hook, make 1 yarn over and pull it through the next 2 loops on hook *, work from *-* one more time, make 1 yarn over and pull it through all 3 loops on hook
= at beginning of round work 1 chain stitch. This chain stitch does not replace the first double crochet on the round. Finish the round with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch at beginning of round, then work slip stitches to middle of first chain-space
= at beginning of round work 1 chain stitch; finish round with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch
= at beginning of round, replace the first double crochet with 3 chain stitches. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in third chain stitch at beginning of round, then work slip stitches to middle of first chain-space
= at beginning of round replace the first double crochet with 3 chain stitches. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in third chain stitch at beginning of round
= at beginning of round replace first treble crochet with 4 chain stitches. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in fourth chain stitch at beginning of round, then work slip stitches as far as the first chain-space
= at beginning of round work 3 chain stitches, finish round with 1 slip stitch in third chain stitch at beginning of round
= start in the transition between these 2 squares when the bottom edge is worked
= start here! First round already worked and is only here to show how the next round is worked




Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 195-35) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (14)

Gigliola Sinatti 05.12.2019 - 12:22:

Vorrei realizzare questo poncho ma le spiagazione non sono chiare. All'inizio mi viene a palloncino invece di venire steso. Non c'è la spiagazione precisa del giro, come devo fare?

Amelie 25.11.2019 - 10:39:

Hej. Hur många fasta maskor runt luftmaskringen i första varvet? Mvh Amelie

DROPS Design 26.11.2019 kl. 08:09:

Hei Amelie! Etter A.1a er heklet skal A.1b hekles 4 ganger, dette tilsvarer 8 fastmasker i første omgang, Lykke til!

Elena 19.10.2019 - 09:35:

Mi piacerebbe usare il colore ocra al posto del grigio medio abbinato al grigio scuro, ma non so cosa usare come terzo colore. Cosa suggerite?

DROPS Design 19.10.2019 kl. 09:49:

Buongiorno Elena, può lasciare il grigio più chiaro come terzo colore, oppure può provare un contrasto maggiore con il bianco. Le scelte dei colori sono sempre molto soggettive. Per un aiuto più preciso può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

Pamela Smith 30.09.2019 - 21:27:

I really wanted to make this, but no way can I follow the diagram. I need the written pattern.

DROPS Design 30.09.2019 kl. 22:38:

Dear Pamela, unfortunately, we cannot provide written instructions for this pattern, but following a diagram is not that difficult. Here is a DROPS lesson to help you through it.t. Also, don't forget, íou can always ask for help in person in the store you bought your DROPS yarn from. Happy Crafting!

Chrystal 26.08.2019 - 05:30:

Anyone have this pattern in written form instead of the diagram? I'm not figuring this out. . :(

DROPS Design 26.08.2019 kl. 09:29:

Dear Chrystal, we only have diagrams to this pattern - you will find in our FAQ how to read crochet diagrams here. Happy crocheting!

Sarah Fr 17.08.2019 - 10:13:

Bonjour, je viens de le terminer pour ma fille de 13 ans. Il est très facile et très beau. J'ai juste changé les couleurs. Dommage que je ne puisse pas insérer la photo. Bonne journée

DROPS Design 19.08.2019 kl. 12:21:

Bonjour Sarah Fr et merci. Vous pouvez volontiers nous montrer vos photos via notre Facebook, notre groupe DROPS Workshop ou bien nous envoyer le lien de votre photo pour la galerie #dropsfan. Bon crochet!

De Jong 09.05.2019 - 13:38:

De kleuren worden niet juist aangegeven in het patroon, de medium grijs word erg vaak gebruikt maar dat moet grijs zijn. Het poolse patroon bijvoorbeeld is wel juist.

Colleen Wilkowske 13.03.2019 - 03:12:

Please ignore previous questions. The error was mine on the 2nd round, I missed a stitch.

Colleen Wilkowske 13.03.2019 - 02:51:

I believe there’s an error on the pattern diagram. On Round 11, (the round where the corners begin), the last 2 sets of stitches on the diagram (left side of chart) it shows to make 2 SC, chain 4, 2SC, then start at beginning with 2 more SC. When done this way, there are too many stitches. I think it should only have 1 set of SC at end.

DROPS Design 13.03.2019 kl. 08:12:

Dear Mrs Wilkowske, make sure you have a total of 32 chain-spaces on row 10, so that you get pattern right, ie repeating 4 times A.1b in width will get you A.1b starting with 2 sc, ch4, and ending with 2 sc, 4 ch, 2 sc, 4 ch = 2 sc a total of 3 times with ch4 between each. Happy crocheting!

Colleen Wilkowske 12.03.2019 - 19:30:

I am crocheting the poncho and have done a Guauge swatch to determine correct hook size. After completing 7 rows, the edges are curling up, forming more of a “cup” shape. Will this flatten out when I get to the rows which form into square shape or have I done something wrong? I’d appreciate any help you can provide. Thank you

DROPS Design 13.03.2019 kl. 08:04:

Dear Mrs Wilkowske, make sure you are keeping the same tension when working the square, so that all sts have same width - and remember also to keep the correct tension in height. Happy crocheting!

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