DROPS / 192 / 31

Meet the Dawn by DROPS Design

Knitted hat with cables and garter stitch in DROPS Sky. Knitted mittens with cables and garter stitch in DROPS Sky.

DROPS Design: Pattern no sk-005
Yarn group B
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YARN FOR THE WHOLE SET:
Sizes: S/M – M/L
Fit head size: approx. 54/56 - 56/58 cm
Materials:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
150-150 g colour 13, light jeans blue

YARN FOR HAT:
Sizes: S/M - M/L
Fits head size: approx. 54/56 - 56/58 cm
Materials:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
100-100 g colour 13, light jeans blue

YARN FOR MITTENS:
Sizes: S/M – M/L
Measurements (length): approx. 28-30 cm.
Materials:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
100-100 g colour 13, light jeans blue

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

HAT:

KNITTING TENSION:
23 stitches in width and 48 rows in height with garter stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: length of either 40 cm, 60 cm or 80 cm.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

MITTENS:

KNITTING TENSION:
23 stitches in width and 48 rows in height with garter stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 3.45 £ /50g
DROPS Sky uni colour DROPS Sky uni colour 3.45 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Sky mix DROPS Sky mix 3.45 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 10.35£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth) – for the hat:
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
Hat: See diagram A.1.
Mittens: See diagrams A.2 and A.3.
As you decrease and increase in diagrams A.1b, A.2b and A.3b, the number of stitches can vary in relation to this by 1 stitch, if you have just decreased.

DECREASE TIP-1 – for hat:
All decreases are made from the right side!
Decrease 1 stitch after the marker thread as follows: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
Decrease 1 stitch before the marker thread as follows: Knit 2 together.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round) – for mittens:
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

INCREASE TIP – for mittens:
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over; on the next round work the yarn over twisted to avoid holes. The increased stitch is then worked in garter stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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HAT - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth and is sewn together to finish.

HAT:
Cast on 114-120 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side of the piece) with circular needle size 3 mm and Sky. Work 3 RIDGES – read description above.
Then work as follows from the right side: Work 39-42 stitches in garter stitch, A.1 (= 36 stitches) and 39-42 stitches in garter stitch.
When A.1a has been worked 1 time in height there are 119-125 stitches on the needle. A.1b (= 41 stitches) is then worked over A.1a. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Continue this pattern until the piece measures 21 cm in height (the different patterns are worked over different rows in height).
Insert 6 marker threads in the garter stitches in each side of A.1b as follows:
Work 3-6 stitches in garter stitch, insert 1 marker thread, * 12 stitches in garter stitch, insert 1 marker thread *, work from *-* a total of 2 times, work 12 stitches in garter stitch, work A.1b as before, work 12 stitches in garter stitch, * insert 1 marker thread, work 12 stitches in garter stitch *, work from *-* a total of 2 times, insert 1 marker thread, work 3-6 stitches in garter stitch (= a total of 6 marker threads).
Then decrease 1 stitch after the first 3 marker threads and 1 stitch before the last 3 marker threads - read DECREASE TIP-1.
Decrease like this every 4th row a total of 4-5 times, then work A.1c over A.1b and continue decreasing by each marker thread every 2nd row 6 more times = 25 stitches. Then work all stitches together 2 and 2 = 13 stitches.
Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well. The hat measures approx. 26-27 cm from the top down.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the hat together inside the 1 edge stitch in each side of the piece.
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MITTENS- SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The mittens are worked in the round with double pointed needles.

LEFT MITTEN:
Cast on 44-47 stitches with double pointed needles size 3 mm and Sky. Work 3 RIDGES – read description above. Work 1 stitch in garter stitch, A.2a (= 24 stitches) and 19-22 stitches in garter stitch. When A.2a has been worked 1 time in height there are 49-52 stitches on the needles. Then work A.2b over A.2a.
When the piece measures 10 cm, increase 4 stitches evenly over the garter stitches = 53-56 stitches
The increased stitches are worked in garter stitch.
Continue this pattern in height (the different patterns are worked over different rounds in height). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When the piece measures 12-13 cm increase 1 stitch on each side of the first stitch on the round for thumb - read INCREASE TIP.
Increase like this on each side of the increased stitches every 2nd round a total of 6-7 times = 65-70 stitches. Now place the 13-15 thumb-stitches on 1 thread. Continue in the round as before and cast on 1 new stitch behind the thumb on the next round = 53-56 stitches. When the mitten measures approx. 25-27 cm (you can try the mitten on; there is 3 cm left to finished length), decrease as follows:
On the next row from the right side work A.2c over A.2b and decrease 3 stitches evenly over the garter stitches every 2nd round a total of 6 times = 12-15 stitches.
Work all stitches together 2 and 2 = 6-8 stitches. Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well. The mitten measures a total of approx. 28-30 cm.

THUMB: 
Place the 13-15 stitches above the thumb gusset on double pointed needles size 3 mm and in addition pick up 3 stitches in the edge at the back of the thumb-stitches = 16-18 stitches. Work garter stitch in the round for 6-7 cm, then work all stitches together 2 and 2 = 8-9 stitches. . Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well.

RIGHT MITTEN:
Work as for left, but reversed; in other words, work A.3 instead of A.2 and increase to thumb on each side of the first garter stitch after A.3.

Diagram

= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
= this square has no stitch, go straight to the next symbol in the diagram
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, the yarn over is worked twisted on the next row to avoid a hole
= work 3 stitches, pass the first stitch worked over the last 2 stitches so that this stitch lies around the other 2 (= 1 stitch decreased)
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
= place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
= place 2 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
= place 4 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
= place 4 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
= purl 2 together



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 192-31) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (7)

Madeleine 15.11.2019 - 10:55:

Hej! Jag får verkligen inte till mönstret/diagrammet A2a när jag börjar på vantarna. På varv två, räknas då omslagen från varv ett som räta maskor i diagrammet eller blir de liksom utöver räta maskorna i diagrammet? Sen undrar jag också om jag på varv två ska sticka en rät maska först och sen börja gå efter mönsterdiagrammet? Mvh Madeleine

Ivana Poláková 08.10.2019 - 20:29:

Dobrý den, chtěla bych vědět, proč u vzoru A1b v posledních dvou řadách nejsou zakreslené celé řady? Děkuji za odpověď.

DROPS Design 08.10.2019 kl. 21:06:

Dobrý den, Ivano, vzhledem k tomu, že ve vzoru A.1 ujímáme, klesne počet ok, a proto jsou tyto dvě řady kratší. Hodně zdaru! Hana

Heather 28.11.2018 - 18:18:

I am making the second size. I see that I am to complete A2b over A2a until piece measures 10cm. My question is; the chart cuts off after row 10 it only shows the first 15 stitches. What happens with the remaining 14 stitches? Work them as they appear then once the last 2 rows are done, start at row 1 again?

DROPS Design 29.11.2018 kl. 08:47:

Dear Heather, the patterns are not repeated over the same number of rows, when you have worked the first 10 rows in A.2b, repeat A.2b from first row over these 14 sts and continue the first sts in A.2b as shown in diagram. When you have worked all rows in A.2b over the first sts in diagram, repeat pattern from row 1 over these sts. Make sure small and large cable will have the correct number of rows between each (= 5 rows for the small one and 9 rows for the large one). Happy knitting!

Lene Hasle 19.11.2018 - 19:11:

Er der fejl i beskrivelse af aflukning? Hvis man tager 3 masker ind i retstrikmaskerne 6 gange, som der står, så ender man med 6 masker og ikke 12.

DROPS Design 23.11.2018 kl. 11:33:

Hei Lene. Det stemmer at du har 6 masker igjen av rillemaskene, men du har også 6 masker igjen av mønsteret = 12 masker totalt på pinnen. Du feller 23 masker i A.2c og 18 masker over rillene. God fornøyelse.

Janice Paschek 29.10.2018 - 20:20:

Ich bin gerade dabei die Fäustlinge zu stricken und habe eine Frage dazu. Es heißt in der Anleitung: Dann wie folgt weiterstricken: 1 M kraus rechts, A.2a (= 24) und 19-22 M kraus rechts. Bis hier hin verstehe ich es noch. Dann folgt: Wenn A.2a 1 x in der Höhe gestrickt wurde, sind 49-52 M auf der Nadel. Wie komme ich auf die 49M? In dem Muster sind in der zweiten Reihe nur 29 M angegeben. Wird der Rest mit linken M aufgefüllt? Vielen Dank und viele Grüße Janice

DROPS Design 30.10.2018 kl. 08:30:

Liebe Frau Paschek, in der 1. Reihe von A.2a werden Sie 5 Maschen zunehmen (siehe 5. Symbol), so haben Sie 44-47 M + 5 M = 49-52 M. So habe Sie: 1 M kraus rechts, A.2a (= 29 M ) und 19-22 M kraus rechts. Dann stricken Sie A.2b über die 29 M von A.2a und die anderen Maschen stricken Sie wie zuvor. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Eva Sporrong 25.10.2018 - 08:48:

Hej, varför slutar mönstret i A1b mitt i de 2 översta varven? Vad gör jag efter A1b. Börjar med A1a eller fortsätter med A1b till 21cm.Beskrivningen är lite otillräcklig och jag är ändå en van stickare. Vad menas med: ”de olika mönstren stickas på olika varv på höjden? ” hälsningar Eva Sporrong

DROPS Design 25.10.2018 kl. 17:24:

Hej, att de olika mönstren stickas på olika varv i höjden betyder att det är färre varv i höjden på rapporten längst till vänster i diagr. Du ska alltså upprepa de 10 varven längst till vänster i diagr A.1b i höjden samtidigt som du upprepar de 12 varven i den längre rapporten längst till höger i diagr. Fortsätt med detta tills arb mäter 21 cm.

Katarzyna 24.10.2018 - 17:42:

Czy przy przerobieniu czapki 21 cm wysokosc powtarzac schemat A1a razem z A 1b

DROPS Design 25.10.2018 kl. 10:04:

Witaj Katarzyno! Na wys. 21 cm dalej przerabiasz ale tylko schemat A1b. Po zamknięciu oczek w sumie 4-5 razy co 4 rzędy, zaczynasz schemat A1c. Pozdrawiamy!

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