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  1. Free patterns
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  4. Headbands
  5. DROPS
  6. 192
  7. 40

Baltic Sea by DROPS Design

Knitted head band, neck warmer and wrist warmers with cables and garter stitch in DROPS Sky.

Keywords: cable, cosy hands, diagonal-knit, headband, headwear, neck warmer, set, wrist warmers

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DROPS 192-40
DROPS Design: Pattern no sk-001
Yarn group B
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YARN FOR THE WHOLE SET:
Sizes: S/M – M/L
Fits head size: 54/56 - 56/58 cm
Materials:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
200-200 g colour 13, light jeans blue

YARN FOR HEAD BAND:
Sizes: S/M - M/L
Fits head size: approx. 54/56 - 56/58 cm
Measurements: Circumference approx. 49-51 cm. Height: approx. 12 cm
Materials:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
50-50 g colour 13, light jeans blue

YARN FOR NECK WARMER:
Sizes: S/M – M/L
Measurements: Circumference at top: approx. 61-66 cm, circumference at bottom: approx. 92-96 cm, height: approx. 28-30 cm
Materials:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
100-100 g colour 13, light jeans blue

YARN FOR WRIST WARMERS:
Sizes: S/M – M/L
Measurements: Circumference: approx. 19-20 cm, height: approx. 19-20 cm
Materials:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
50-50 g colour 13, light jeans blue

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

HEAD BAND:

KNITTING TENSION:
23 stitches in width and 48 rows in height with garter stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

NECK WARMER:

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: length 60 cm.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

WRIST WARMERS:

KNITTING TENSION:
23 stitches in width and 48 rows in height with garter stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool 		from 4.90 £ /50g
DROPS Sky uni colour DROPS Sky uni colour 4.90 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Sky mix DROPS Sky mix 4.90 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.60£. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
Head band: See diagram A.1.
Neck warmer: See diagrams A.2 to A.11.
Wrist warmers: See diagrams A.12 and A.13.
Because you increase and decrease in diagrams A.1b, A.3b, A.4b, A.6b, A.7b, A.12 and A.13, the number of stitches can vary in relation to this, if you have just decreased.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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HEAD BAND - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth and sewn together mid back to finish.

HEAD BAND:
Cast on 32 stitches with needle size 3 mm and Sky. Work 1 RIDGE – read description above. Then work A.1a (= 32 stitches). When A.1a has been worked 1 time in height, there are 37 stitches on the row. Work A.1b over A.1a. The different patterns are worked over different rows in height.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When the piece measures 48-50 cm, work A.1c over A.1b. When A.1c has been worked 1 time in height there are 32 stitches on the row. Work 1 ridge. Cast off with knit.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew cast-on edge to cast-off edge in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch.
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NECK WARMER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth, top down, with circular needle.

NECK WARMER:
Cast on 130-140 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side of the piece) with circular needle size 4 mm and Sky. Work 2 RIDGES – read description above. Then work pattern as follows: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.2 (= 2 stitches) over the first 20-26 stitches, A.3a (= 42 stitches), 1 stitch in garter stitch, 1 stitch in stocking stitch (= mid-stitch), 1 stitch in garter stitch, A.4a (= 42 stitches), A.5 (= 2 stitches) over the next 21-25 stitches and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
When A.3a and A.4a have been worked 1 time in height there are 140-150 stitches on the needle.
Work A.3b and A.4b over A.3a and A.4a. Continue this pattern. The different patterns are worked over different rows in height.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When the piece measures 8 cm, start to increase mid front as follows from the right side:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.2 over 20-26 stitches as before, continue A.3b as before (= 47 stitches), A.6a over the next stitch, 1 stitch in stocking stitch (= mid-stitch), A.7a over the next stitch, continue A.4b as before (= 47 stitches), A.5 over 21-25 stitches as before and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
When A.6a and A.7a have been worked 1 time in height, continue as follows from the right side:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.2 and A.3b as before, A.6b over the first 21 stitches of A.6a, A.8a over the next stitch, 1 stitch in stocking stitch (= mid-stitch), A.9a over the next stitch, A.7b over the last 21 stitches of A.7a, A.4b and A.5 as before and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
When A.8a and A.9a have been worked 1 time in height (the remaining patterns continue in height), work as follows from the right side:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.2, A.3b and A.6b as before, A.8b over the first 14 stitches of A.8a, A.10a over the next stitch, 1 stitch in stocking stitch (= mid-stitch), A.11a over the next stitch, A.9b over the last 14 stitches of A.9a, A.7b, A.4b and A.5 as before, finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this pattern. Repeat A.10a and A.11a on each side of the mid-stitch in height until the piece measures a total of 28-30 cm measured along the first stitch (A.10b and A.11b are worked over A.10a and A.11a in height when the pattern is repeated). Cast off with knit over knit, purl over purl and garter stitch over garter stitch.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the neck warmer together mid back inside the 1 edge stitch.
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WRIST WARMER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth.

WRIST WARMER:
The piece is worked back and forth.
Cast on 44-46 stitches with needle size 3 mm and Sky. Work 2 RIDGES – read description above. Work 8-9 stitches garter stitch, A.12 (= 29 stitches) and finish with 7-8 stitches garter stitch. The different patterns are worked over different rows in height. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When the piece measures 18-19 cm, work 2 ridges. Cast off with knit.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the wrist warmer together in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch.
Work 1 more wrist warmer, but work A.13 instead of A.12.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = this square has no stitch, go straight to next symbol in diagram
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; the yarn overs are worked twisted on the next row to avoid holes
symbols = knit 3 stitches, pass the first stitch worked over the other 2 so that it lies around the other 2 stitches (= 1 stitch decreased)
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
symbols = place 2 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
symbols = place 4 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
symbols = place 4 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 192-40) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (8)

country flag Bertineke wrote:

*kabelnaald

11.05.2021 - 16:18

country flag Bertineke wrote:

Bij A1b missen twee naalden. Ik neem aan dat het patroon zo verder gaat als daarvoor, of moet je de kabelaars nog een keer gebruiken?

11.05.2021 - 14:57

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Bertineke,

Ja, de naalden kun je inderdaad zo voortzetten in de hoogte als hiervoor; het linker deel van A.1b heeft minder naalden in de hoogte, dus je begint eerder dan het rechter deel, opnieuw met een herhaling in de hoogte.

12.05.2021 kl. 21:00

country flag Anne-Claire wrote:

Hallo, In diagram A4.a en A4b mist het middelste deel van de laatste twee pennen. Brei je die door zoals in voorgaande regels of sla je deze steken over? Alvast bedankt!

02.01.2021 - 18:32

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Anne-Claire,

Ja, breit inderdaad door zoals hiervoor. Het middelste deel heeft zeg maar een ander herhalingsritme, dus minder aantal naalden in de hoogte.

09.01.2021 kl. 18:24

country flag Pascale wrote:

Hello. Could you explain in pattern A.1b (for the head band) how to work the last two rows of the pattern, since one side has 10rows, and the other half has 12 rows. I couldn’t find a video explaining this either. Thank you

30.06.2019 - 04:58

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Pascale, all cables and lace patterns are not repeated over the same number of rows, when you have finished 2nd part of diagram (= over 10 rows), repeat from row 1 over these stitches, at the same time, continue the first half of diagram as before until it has been finished, then start again from row 1. You will then follow both parts of diagram separately, making sure cables are crossing on correct rows. Happy knitting!

01.07.2019 kl. 07:13

country flag Rosanna Kinloch wrote:

Please help me on how should I read the graphs\r\nDo I read it as rows 1, 3, and 5\r\ndo I see it as only the right side of knitting

24.04.2019 - 14:58

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Kinloch, read more how to read diagrams here . Happy knitting!

24.04.2019 kl. 16:02

Oksana wrote:

Because you increase and decrease in diagrams A.1b, A.3b, A.4b, A.6b, A.7b, A.12 and A.13, the number of stitches can vary in relation to this, if you have just decreased - PLEASE EXPLAIN. THANKS

20.08.2018 - 14:07

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Oksana, This sentence is a bit confusing, I agree. It just means that the number of stitches stated could be affected by which row you are on in the diagrams, especially after a row of decreases. I hope this helps and happy knitting!

21.08.2018 kl. 07:22

country flag Margaretha wrote:

Snygg!

14.06.2018 - 16:20

country flag Sigrid wrote:

Gefällt mir sehr gut

08.06.2018 - 21:54

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