DROPS Baby / 33 / 4

Good Night by DROPS Design

Knitted blanket for baby in DROPS BabyMerino. Piece is knitted with wave pattern.

DROPS design: Pattern no bm-090-by
Yarn group A

Measurements: Width: approx. 45-73 cm = 17 3/4”-28 3/4” Length: approx. 52-80 cm = 20 1/2”-31 1/2”
DROPS BABYMERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150-250 g color 05, light pink


24 stitches in width and 40 rows vertically with A.2 = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
1 repetition of A.2 measures approx. 7 cm = 2 3/4” in width.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm = US 6: length 60 or 80 cm = 24” or 32” for blanket.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller needles.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 4.20 $ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.



GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

DECREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 108 stitches), minus edge stitches (e.g. 6 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 12) = 8.5.
In this example decrease by knitting alternately every 7th and 8th stitch and every 8th and 9th stitch together. Do not decrease over edge stitches.

To avoid a tight bind-off edge you may use a larger needle.




Blanket is worked back and forth on circular needle, bottom up.

Cast on 132-216 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 with BabyMerino. Work first row as follows from right side: 3 edge stitches in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above, work A.1 until 3 stitches remain on row (= 6-10 repetitions of 21 stitches) and finish with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. When A.1 has been worked, there are 108-176 stitches on row. Work next row as follows from right side: 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, work A.2 until 3 stitches remain on row (= 6-10 repetitions of 17 stitches) and finish with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! When piece measures approx. 51-78 cm = 20”-30 3/4”, adjust after one whole repetition vertically, work 1 ridge back and forth over all stitches. AT THE SAME TIME on first row decrease 12-22 stitches evenly - read DECREASE TIP = 96-154 stitches. Bind off by knitting from right side - read BIND-OFF TIP!

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 23.01.2019
Correction: AT THE SAME TIME on first row decrease 12-22 stitches evenly


All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
= knit from wrong side
= knit 2 together
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 33-4) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (49)

Ellen 04.02.2021 - 18:19:

Super Strickmuster für eine Babydecke. Sieht sehr schön aus. Tolle Anleitung und leicht zu verstehen . Man muss einfach drauf los stricken, dann versteht man es auch.

Guðborg 29.12.2020 - 12:41:

Þegar búið er að gera A-1 og A-2 í fyrsta skiptið er þá A-2 síðan endurtekið áfram eða bæði A-1 og A-2?

DROPS Design 29.12.2020 kl. 16:29:

Blessuð Guðbjörg. A.1 er aðeins prjónað einu sinni og síðan A.2 þar til þú endar með garðaprjóni. Gangi þér vel.

Aurélie 12.11.2020 - 18:40:

Bonjour, Lorsqu'il est indiqué "1 maille endroit sur l'endroit, envers sur l'envers", il s'agit d'un point mousse ordinaire ? Et "1 maille endroit sur envers" cela signifie qu'il faut tricoter une maille à l'envers ? Merci d'avance.

DROPS Design 13.11.2020 kl. 08:14:

Bonjour Aurélie, quand on doit tricoter "1 maille endroit sur l'endroit, envers sur l'envers", il s'agit ici de tricoter les mailles en jersey (= rangs 1 de A.1 et rangs 1 à 4 de A.2) - la maille endroit sur l'envers (= 2ème symbole) va former une côte mousse = vous tricotez ce rang en mailles endroit sur l'envers de l'ouvrage. La vidéo ci-dessous montre comment tricoter A.1 et A.2. Bon tricot!

Sabri 06.11.2020 - 14:54:

Sto per chiudere il lavoro, devo fare solo la lavorazione a costa e le diminuzioni. Comincio a diminuire subito sul diritto del lavoro 1 solo ferro e sul rovescio lavoro normalmente? Dato che bisogna chiudere a diritto sul diritto? Grazie.

DROPS Design 07.11.2020 kl. 20:26:

Buongiorno Sabri, diminuisce sul primo ferro della costa, lavora in 2° ferro a rovescio e poi intreccia a diritto sul diritto del lavoro. Buon lavoro!

Aurélie 19.10.2020 - 23:54:

Merci pour votre réponse, c'est déjà plus clair pour moi ! =) Une dernière question concernant les diminutions. Vous dîtes qu'il faut d'abord tricoter le diagramme A1 x 6, puis diminuer au 1er rang de A.1 4 m dans chaque diagramme (= 6 x 4 m = 24m diminuées au total) = il reste 17 m dans chaque A.1. Ne doit-on pas diminuer au fur et à mesure du tricot des diagrammes A1 (comme dans la vidéo) ? Je ne comprends pas comment revenir sur l'ouvrage en aval pour les diminutions.

DROPS Design 20.10.2020 kl. 10:40:

Bonjour Aurélie, vous diminuez dans A.1 comme le montre le diagramme, autrement dit, au 1er rang de A.1, tricotez: (2 m ens à l'end x 2, 13m end, 2 m ens à l'end x 2) et répétez de (à) 6 fois au total = vous diminuez 4 m dans chaque A.1 soit 24 m au total = il vous reste 108 m sur l'aiguille. Tricotez le rang suivant à l'endroit sur l'envers puis tricotez A.2 (= à partir du 1er rang = 4 rangs jersey, 1 rang ajouré (diminutions + jetés sur l'endroit) + 1 rang endroit sur l'envers); le nombre de mailles sera maintenant toujours de 17 m pour chaque A.2. Répétez ces 6 rangs. Bon tricot!

Aurélie 18.10.2020 - 21:25:

Bonjour, Je débute seulement le tricot et je pense m'être trompé plusieurs fois... Je ne comprends pas la transition entre les diagrammes A1 et A2 (l'écrit ne correspond pas à la vidéo). Doit-on tricoter A1 + 4 x 17 mailles au point mousse, puis les mailles ensemble et les jetés ? Puis reprendre 4 x 17 et les mailles ensemble et les jetés jusqu'à atteindre 51 cm de hauteur environ ? J'espère avoir été claire. Merci d'avance pour votre réponse !

DROPS Design 19.10.2020 kl. 09:51:

Bonjour Aurélie, je ne suis pas bien sûre de comprendre, vous tricotez d'abord le diagramme A.1 (= 21 m) 6 à 10 fois en largeur (cf taille), vous allez diminuer au 1er rang de A.1 4 m dans chaque diagramme (= 6 ou 10 x 4 m = 24-40 m diminuées au total) = il reste 17 m dans chaque A.1. Vous tricotez ensuite A.2 (= 17 m) au-dessus de chaque A.1. Mettez bien marqueur pour délimiter chacun des diagrammes que vous tricotez en largeur pour bien vous repérer et bien revérifier votre nombre de mailles à chaque rang. Bon tricot!

Anki 14.10.2020 - 21:45:

Får inte ihop måtten en rapport a2 ca 7cm, 10 rapporter blir då 70 cm enl mönster skall det vara 65 cm

DROPS Design 15.10.2020 kl. 10:18:

Hej Anki. Det ser ut som det måttet blivit lite fel där, det är nu rättat till 73 cm i den stora storleken. Tack för info! Mvh DROPS Design

Lena L 02.09.2020 - 17:09:

Hey, ich bin gerade dabei die Maschenprobe zu machen und ich verstehe nicht ganz, wie ich nach jedem Rapport bei der gleichen Anzahl von Maschen bleibe. Denn ich soll laut A2, 6 mal 2 Maschen zusammenstricken und aber nur insgesamt 6 Maschen In Form eines Umschlags wieder aufnehmen. Wenn ich das aber so mache, fehlen mir aber jedes Mal danach Maschen und meine Decke wird Stück für Stück kleiner. Wie löse ich das Problem?? LG

DROPS Design 03.09.2020 kl. 09:38:

Liebe Lena L, in jedem A.2 werden 6 Maschen abgnommen und 6 Maschen zugenommen = die Maschenanzahl bleibt bei 17 bei jedem Rapport - bei der 5. Reihe stricken Sie: 2 M re zs x 3, (1 Umschlag, 1 M re) x 5, 1 Umschlag, 2 M re zs x 3. Siehe auch Video unten. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Ade Õige 23.07.2020 - 17:31:

Miks peab tõõ lõpus silmuseid kahandama?

DROPS Design 06.08.2020 kl. 22:51:

Tere Ade Õige! Arvatavasti, et äär liialt lainetama ei jääks. Head kudumist!

Karen Juhl Nielsen 30.06.2020 - 17:35:

Jeg synes ikke maskerne stemmer, når man skal ta henholdsvis 12-22 m ind i borten i starten af arbejdet. Jeg undrer mig derfor over, rettelsen pr 23/1/2019? Er I sikre på det er en korrekt rettelse? Vh Karen.

DROPS Design 02.07.2020 kl. 11:34:

Hej Karen, det er ikke før de sidste pinde i retstrik du skal tage masker ind jævnt fordelt, bølgemønsteret vil ellers gerne udvide sig øverst hvis du ikke gør det. Rettelsen er skrevet ind i selve opskriften. God fornøjelse!

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