DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.65$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Good Night

Knitted blanket for baby in DROPS BabyMerino. Piece is knitted with wave pattern. Theme: Baby blanket

DROPS Baby 33-4
DROPS design: Pattern no bm-090-by
Yarn group A

Measurements: Width: approx. 45-73 cm = 17¾"-28¾" Length: approx. 52-80 cm = 20½"-31½"
DROPS BABYMERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150-250 g color 05, light pink


24 stitches in width and 40 rows vertically with A.2 = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".
1 repetition of A.2 measures approx. 7 cm = 2¾" in width.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm = US 6: length 60 or 80 cm = 24" or 32" for blanket.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to smaller needles.


Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.65$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.



GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

DECREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 108 stitches), minus edge stitches (e.g. 6 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 12) = 8.5.
In this example decrease by knitting alternately every 7th and 8th stitch and every 8th and 9th stitch together. Do not decrease over edge stitches.

To avoid a tight bind-off edge you may use a larger needle.




Blanket is worked back and forth on circular needle, bottom up.

Cast on 132-216 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 with BabyMerino. Work first row as follows from right side: 3 edge stitches in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above, work A.1 until 3 stitches remain on row (= 6-10 repetitions of 21 stitches) and finish with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. When A.1 has been worked, there are 108-176 stitches on row. Work next row as follows from right side: 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, work A.2 until 3 stitches remain on row (= 6-10 repetitions of 17 stitches) and finish with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! When piece measures approx. 51-78 cm = 20"-30¾", adjust after one whole repetition vertically, work 1 ridge back and forth over all stitches. AT THE SAME TIME on first row decrease 12-22 stitches evenly - read DECREASE TIP = 96-154 stitches. Bind off by knitting from right side - read BIND-OFF TIP!

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 23.01.2019
Correction: AT THE SAME TIME on first row decrease 12-22 stitches evenly


All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = knit from wrong side
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Baby 33-4

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (78)

country flag Sara wrote:

Salve dopo l'avvio delle maglie devo lavorare il ferro sul rovescio del lavoro? E continuo poi come avete spiegato per il 1 ferro sul diritto del lavoro dove fare le diminuzioni? Grazie

22.04.2024 - 18:05

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Sara, no, deve avviare le maglie e lavorare come indicato, con il primo ferro sul diritto del lavoro. Buon lavoro!

24.04.2024 - 16:55

country flag Suzanne wrote:

Hello... I am nearing completion on this lovely blanket, however I have run into a problem. I cannot figure out what is likely an easy instruction... I have 176 sts on my needle (2 repeats of 3 edge sts, 10 repeats of 17 pattern sts). When the pattern instruction is to "decrease 12-22 sts evenly", how do I decide how many decreases to do? Thank you so much for helping me with this!

05.12.2023 - 02:43

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Suzanne, this lesson explains how to decrease evenly, see also DECREASE TIP (evenly): at the beginning of the pattern. Happy knitting!

05.12.2023 - 09:22

country flag Audrey Desrochers wrote:

Bonjour ! Pour le A1, il semble que le total de diminution donne 42 m et non 40 m. Doit-on diminuer d'une maille au début et une maille à la fin du rang pour avoir 40 m en moins ? Merci !

24.07.2023 - 16:26

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Desrochers, dans votre taille vous avez 10 motifs A.1. Vous diminuez 4 mailles dans chaque motif > 10x4=40 mailles diminuees. Bon tricot!

24.07.2023 - 16:49

country flag Ebba Heitzmann wrote:

Hej, läser man mönstret nedifrån eller uppifrån? Alltså, ex a1: börjar jag sticka 2m räta tsm, 13rm, 2m räta tsm och därefter följande varv rätt från avigsidan eller stickar jag räta från avigsidan innan jag stickar 2m räta tsm 13 rm, 2 m räta tsm? Hälsn Ebba

10.07.2023 - 16:26

country flag Linda Reaves wrote:

Trying to get the Good Night blanket made. I do not understand what is meant by the knit from wrong side? My experience (limited) has been knit stitch is usually the right side and the purl is the wrong side. Did not see a tutorial for knit from wrong side. Is that same as knitting in back of stitch?The line in ea graph that is all solid ( k from back) when is that done with A1 or A2 ? I am assuming in the "between 2 stitches make a 1 yarn over" are knitted stitches with yo in between.

06.07.2023 - 21:53

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Linda, The blanket is worked back and forth, so alternately from the right and wrong side. To get the pattern in the picture, you need to vary the stitches, which means on row 2 of A.1 you knit back from the wrong side (normal knitted stitches but with the piece turned and working back from the wrong side). Hope this helps and happy knitting!

07.07.2023 - 06:44

country flag Sigrid Adel wrote:

Am ende der Anleitung zur obigen Babydecke steht, dass 12 - 22 Maschen abgenommen werden sollen. Nun zu meiner Frage: Warum sollen Maschen abgenommen werden? Danke für Ihre Hilfe. Viele Grüße, Sigrid Adel

15.03.2023 - 10:57

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Adel, es wird so abgenommen damit die Wellen schöner aussehen und die abgekettene Kante besser aussieht. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

15.03.2023 - 13:37

country flag DB Tate wrote:

EXACTLY WHAT is the pattern? DROPS patterns are always so IMPOSSIBLE to understand!

14.12.2022 - 17:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Tate, the pattern is worked following the diagrams, you first work A.1 one time in height over all stitches then repeat A.2 in width and in height. This lesson explains how to read diagrams and this video shows how to work both diagrams in this pattern. Hope it will help, happy knitting!

15.12.2022 - 08:34

country flag Karen Anna Enemark wrote:

Hvordan læser jeg opskriften til babytæppe 33-4. Jeg skal slå 216 masker op og tage ind så jeg ender med 176 masker og så strikke diagram A 2. Det bliver skævt, synes jeg, hullerne kommer ikke over hinanden. Og afslutningen forstår jeg ikke. Der skal vel stadig strikkes over 176 masker, det skal blive til 154 masker før aflukning. Jeg har strikket masser af drops opskrifter og har aldrig haft problemer før. HJÆLP. Mvh Karen Enemark

06.11.2022 - 22:03

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Karen. For at oppleggskanten ikke skal stramme, legges det opp 216 masker for deretter å strikke 2 rett sammen 4 ganger pr gang A.1 strikkes. Så når du har strikkes siste rad av A.1 har maskeantallet blitt redusert til 176 masker. Husk at de 3 rillemaskene i hver side strikkes hele veien. For å få en bedre oversikt at hullmønstret stemmer overens, kan du bruke maskemarkører mellom hver gang du har strikket 1 rapport i bredden av A.2. Når arbeidet måler 78 cm (avslutt etter en hel rapport i høyden), strikkes det 1 rille frem og tilbake over alle maskene. SAMTIDIG som det på første pinne felles 22 masker jevnt fordelt =154 masker. mvh DROPS Design

07.11.2022 - 14:01

country flag Nadia wrote:

Buonasera, ho avuto difficoltà a comprendere la parte della chiusura. Penso che sia sufficiente che, nella frase riferita alla chiusura - ALLO STESSO TEMPO sul 1° ferro diminuire 12-22 maglie in modo uniforme – ecc., sia specificato che si tratta della chiusura, quindi si tratta del 1° ferro della costa legaccio di chiusura. Non lo avevo capito e l'ho capito solo leggendo i commenti. Grazie, il modello è bellissimo!

22.09.2022 - 00:19

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Nadia, le diminuzioni vanno lavorate sul 1° ferro della costa finale, come indicato. Buon lavoro!

27.09.2022 - 22:06

country flag Jette wrote:

Jeg kunne godt tænke mig at lave dette tæppe stører, ca 100x140 hvor meget garn skal jeg beregne. Er godt klar over at størrelsen afhænger af mønstrene.

01.08.2022 - 11:11

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Jette, så skal du nok bruge det dobbelte :)

05.08.2022 - 08:47