DROPS / 197 / 30

Alberta Autumn by DROPS Design

Crocheted shawl in DROPS Delight. Piece is crocheted top down with lace pattern and fans.

Tags: lace, shawls, top down,
DROPS design: Pattern de-185
Yarn group A
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Measurements:
Width at top: approx. 148 cm Length on the middle: approx. 59 cm
Materials:
DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
300 g colour 18, autumn forest

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

CROCHET TENSION:
22 treble crochets in width and 12 rows vertically = 10 x 10 cm.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 mm
Hook size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger hook. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller hook.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
DROPS Delight print DROPS Delight print 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6.
A.5a and A.6a show how row begins. NOTE: Begin on rows drawn over each other in the same diagram even though they are worked alternately in right and left side of shawl and not over each other.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SHAWL - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Piece is worked back and forth, top down.

Work 5 chain stitches on hook size 3.5 mm with Delight and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch made. Start on row with star and work pattern according to diagram A.1 back and forth. When diagram has been worked, continue as follows: A.2a, A.2b and A.2c. When diagrams have been worked vertically, there are 17 chain spaces on row. Piece measures approx. 8 cm from the first chain stitch ring and down the middle of shawl. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
Now work pattern from right side as follows: Work A.3a around first chain space, A.3b around each of the next 7 chain spaces, A.3c around next chain space (= the middle chain space on shawl), A.3b around each of the next 7 chain spaces, A.3d around the last chain space. When A.3a to A.3d have been worked vertically, repeat the last 4 rows in diagrams 3 more times vertically. Piece measures approx. 37 cm from beginning and down the middle of shawl. Now work a row with chain spaces from wrong side as follows: Work A.4a over A.3a, A.4b over A.3b, A.4c over A.3c, A.4d over A.3d. There are now 84 chain spaces on row.
Now insert 12 marker threads in the piece. This is done to make it easier to increase stitches evenly. Insert the markers in the piece as follows: Insert first marker thread in treble crochet after 4 chain spaces, * skip 7 chain spaces and insert next marker thread in next treble crochet *, repeat from *-* 11 times in total, 3 chain spaces remain on row.
Then work pattern A.5b (A.5a shows how every row begins and is worked in addition to stitches in A.5b), AT THE SAME TIME on rows with arrow increase stitches evenly as follows:
ARROW-1: Increase 2 double crochets on each side of marker threads by working 1 extra double crochet around each of the 2 chain spaces before and after marker threads (= 48 stitches increased) = 300 double crochets.
ARROW-2: Increase 1 double crochet on each side of marker threads by working 2 double crochets in a stitch (= 24 stitches increased) = 324 double crochets.
ARROW-3: Increase 1 treble crochet on each side of marker threads by working 2 treble crochets in a stitch (= 24 stitches increased) = 348 treble crochets.
ARROW-4: Increase 2 treble crochets on each side of marker threads by working 1 extra treble crochet around each of the 2 chain spaces before and after marker threads (= 48 stitches increased) = 396 treble crochets.
Work the remaining rows in diagrams.
Piece measures approx. 51 cm from beginning and down the middle of shawl. There are now 66 fans (= 33 repetitions of A.5b) on row.
Fold last row in A.5a/A.5b down so that right side is against right side and work from wrong side around row with black square in A.5b (= row with: 1 half treble crochet, 3 chain stitches, etc.) as follows: Work first row in A.6b as follows (A.6a shows how row begins and is worked in addition to A.6b): 4 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around first half treble crochet, work (3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around next half treble crochet), work like this along the entire shawl AT THE SAME TIME increase 2 chain spaces on each side of marker threads by working 1 extra chain space in each of the 2 chain spaces before and after every marker thread (= 48 chain spaces increased) = 180 chain spaces. Continue back and forth with A.6a and A.6b until entire diagram has been worked vertically and finish with 1 treble crochet in edge stitch on previous row. When entire A.6a and A.6b have been worked vertically, there are 90 fans on row. Shawl measures approx. 60 cm from beginning and down the middle of shawl. Fasten off.

Diagram

= work 5 chain stitches and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch made Black dot is beginning of round
= 1 chain stitch
= 3 chain stitches
= 1 double crochet around chain stitch ring/chain space/chain stitch
= from right side: 1 double crochet in back loop of stitch. From wrong side: 1 double crochet in front loop of stitch.
= 1 half treble crochet around chain space
= 1 treble crochet around chain stitch/chain space
= from right side: 1 treble crochet in back loop of stitch. From wrong side: 1 treble crochet in front loop of stitch.
= 1 double treble crochet around chain stitch/chain space
= work a bobble around chain space as follows: Work 1 treble crochet but wait with last yarn over and pull through, work 3 double treble crochets around the same chain space, but wait with last yarn over and pull through on each of the treble crochets, work 1 treble crochet around same chain space, but on last pull through, pull yarn through all loops on hook.
= around this chain space increase 1 chain space by working 2 chain spaces as shown in diagram
= begin on this row (previous row has already been worked - applies to A.3 and A.5)
= on rows with arrow increase on each side of marker thread - read explanation in pattern
= at beginning of row work 3 chain stitches. Finish row with 1 treble crochet in last stitch
= at beginning of row work 1 chain stitch. Finish row with 1 double crochet in last stitch
= at beginning of row work 4 chain stitches. Finish row with 1 double treble crochet in last stitch
= at beginning of row work 2 chain stitches
= work around this row when A.6a and A.6b are to be worked - read explanation in pattern





Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 197-30) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (25)

Loredana 02.12.2018 - 19:19:

Rebonjour, je suis a la diagramme A5b (1ère flèche/augmentation) et je ne tombe pas sur les 300m serrés demandés (malgré mes 84 arceaux ) 84x3=252 +2x12=276 Ou est mon problème ? FLÈCHE-1: Augmenter 2 mailles serrées de chaque côté des fils marqueurs en crochetant 1 maille serrée en plus autour de chacun des 2 arceaux avant et après les fils marqueurs (= on augmente 48 mailles) = 300 mailles serrées. Merci de votre réponse

DROPS Design 03.12.2018 kl. 10:18:

Bonjour Loredana, vous avez inséré 12 marqueurs, et vous augmentez 2 ms de chaque côté de chaque marqueur = vous augmentez 48 mailles au total, vous devez donc avoir 21 fois A.5b x 12 ms dans chaque A.5b = 300 m. Retrouvez les indications détaillées de cette partie ici (à faire sans les changements de couleur). Bon crochet!

Loredana 29.11.2018 - 23:11:

Bonjour, je commence le châle et j’arrive à l’a diagramme À.2a...je finis mes 4 arceaux (1rang) et au rang suivant je ne trouve pas de mailles en l’air ; le rang débute par un T qui est une maille serré !? Merci de m’expliquer comment faire...

DROPS Design 30.11.2018 kl. 08:29:

Bonjour Loredana, vous trouverez pour ce modèle des photos détaillées de chaque étape ainsi que des vidéos ici. Elles vous permettront certainement de mieux comprendre comment lire les diagrammes. Bon crochet!

Araceli 15.11.2018 - 16:00:

Buen día, al iniciar el diagrama 5a en las instrucciones dice doblar la fila donde inicia el cuadro negro, se refiere a repetir esa fila?. Gracias.

DROPS Design 19.11.2018 kl. 23:14:

Hola Araceli. En este caso se refiere a doblar la labor ( no repetir la fila), lado derecho contra lado derecho por la fila con el cuadrado negro, y trabajar alrededor de esta fila con los diagramas A.6A y A.6B

Karine 06.10.2018 - 11:32:

Bonjour Je n arrive pas à commencer ce châle. Pourriez vous s'il vous plait m expliquer les 2 premiers tours du diagramme 1? Merci d avance Belle journée Karine

DROPS Design 08.10.2018 kl. 08:14:

Bonjour Karine, vous trouverez photos et vidéos pour la réalisation de ce châle sous notre Crochet-Along Magic Summer, soit par ex. comment crocheter A.1 ici. Bon crochet!

Andrea 03.10.2018 - 22:28:

Når det står "Når A.3a til A.3d er heklet ferdig i høyden repeteres de siste 4 radene i diagrammene 3 ganger til i høyden." betyr det at når jeg er ferdig med den delen har jeg heklet totalt 17 rader (21 hvis du teller med fra diagram A.1 uten ring) eller er det når jeg har heklet den første raden jeg repeterer de fire siste tre ganger, med totalt 13 rader (17 hvis du teller med diagram A.1 uten ring)? Med 13 rader måler jeg akkurat 37 cm

DROPS Design 04.10.2018 kl. 08:19:

Hei Andrea. Du skal første hekle hele A.3 = 5 rader. Så skal du gjenta de 4 siste radene 3 ganger til = 12 rader. Du har derfor heklet totalt 17 rader med A.3 når du er ferdig med det diagrammet. God fornøyelse.

Dominique 18.09.2018 - 17:15:

Bonjour j'ai une question sur le diagramme A5b sur le rang après le rang d'augmentation (4ème flèche) on se retrouve avec 4 arceaux avec 4 brides pour le rang suivant c'est une maille serrée entre l'arceau de 3 mailles, 3 mailles en l'air, une maille serrée entre l'arceau. comment fait-on au niveau des arceaux de 4 mailles : on saute 3 mailles ou 4 mailles. merci de votre réponse

DROPS Design 19.09.2018 kl. 08:55:

Bonjour Dominique, quand vous augmentez le nombre de mailles, vous augmentez en même temps le nombre de motifs que vous allez répéter en largeur, ainsi, au 5ème rang vous crochetez (3 ml, sautez 2 brides, 1 ms dans la m suivante) tout du long. Bon crochet!

Gitte 13.09.2018 - 22:15:

Efter diagrammerne A2a A2b A2c skal der ifølge den skrevne opskrift være 17 luftmaskebuer på rækken. Jeg får det til 19 luftmaskebuer også når jeg tæller i diagrammet. Er der en fejl?

DROPS Design 19.09.2018 kl. 14:43:

Hej Gitte, Se gerne vores instruktionsvideo DROPS Magic Summer God fornøjelse!

Wil Kerkmeer 13.09.2018 - 19:08:

Het is voor mij niet duidelijk welke steken van a5b gehaakt moeten worden in 1 lus van de lussentoer van 84 lussen. Graag info of 1stokje, 3 lossen en 1 vaste in 1 losse lus gehaakt moeten worden, zoals ik vermoed. Alvast hartelijk dank. Vrgr

DROPS Design 19.09.2018 kl. 18:24:

Dag Wil, Je begint met haken bij de toer waar een ster bij staat, dus je haakt steeds een bobbel en 3 lossen. De eerste toer haak je niet; deze toer is de laatste toer van A.4 en is erbij getekend, zodat je kunt zien hoe je in de steken van de vorige toer haakt.

Door 11.09.2018 - 20:33:

Is het niet mogelijk om een diagram te maken zoals anderen dat ook doen? Dus niet losse fragmenten, maar de sjaal in klein formaat met alle toeren? Ik vind de patronen van Garnstudio fantastisch, maar wel steeds moeilijker worden door de manier van beschrijven.

DROPS Design 17.09.2018 kl. 20:31:

Hallo Door, Er is juist voor gekozen om de telpatronen op te splitsen, zodat ze beter leesbaar zijn :) Als we ze allemaal in één telpatroon zetten, kunnen de symbolen piepklein worden en zijn ze niet goed leesbaar.

Caisa 10.09.2018 - 11:17:

Hej! Alberta Autum virkad sjal.\\r\\nUnder rubriken Diagram har symbolerna fösvunnit och bara blivit tomma fyrkanter. Nu vet jag inte vilken symbol som hör till vilken beskrivning. Det syntes igår. Har provat på både iPad och PC men ingen skillnad..\\r\\nTacksam för hjälp.

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