DROPS Delight
DROPS Delight
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
DROPS AW2425

Squared Plum

Crocheted tunic in DROPS Delight and DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is crocheted in a square from the middle and outwards. Size: S - XXXL

Highlight Size:
DROPS 197-31

#squaredplumtunic

DROPS design: Pattern de-189
Yarn group A + A or C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
300-350-350-400-450-500 g colour 18, autumn forest
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
125-150-150-175-200-200 g colour 16, dark purple

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

CROCHET TENSION:
4 repetitions of A.3b in width and 8 rows vertically with 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5.5 mm
Hook size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger hook. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller hook.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Delight
DROPS Delight
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.7.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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TUNIC - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Piece is worked in the round from the middle of front/back piece and outwards in a square. Then work the shoulders and the bottom part of body back and forth. Work sleeves in the round, top down. Work entire piece with 1 strand Delight and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands).

FRONT PIECE:
Crochet square:
Begin with hook size 5.5 mm and 1 strand Delight and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work pattern in the round according to diagram A.1. When A.1 has been worked, continue as follows: Work A.2a (shows how round begins and ends), A.2b 4 times in total on round. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! When A.2a/A.2b have been worked vertically, repeat the last 2 rounds. I.e. every time the last 2 rounds are worked there is room for 2 treble crochet groups more between each increase in each of the 4 corner in crochet square. Continue like this until piece measures approx. 55-60-65-65-65-65 x 55-60-65-65-65-65 cm – adjust so that last round worked is next to last round in A.2a/A.2b.
Now work in the different sizes as follows:

SIZE S, M AND L:
Now work back and forth along bottom edge on front piece as follows: Fasten strand with 1 double crochet around chain space in the corner and continue from wrong side as follows: Work A.3a, A.3b until next corner, A.3c around chain space in the corner. Turn and continue back and forth like this until 6-4-4 rows have been worked. Fasten off. Now work shoulders and neck in opposite side of crochet square as follows: Insert a marker thread on each side of the middle 8-8-8 treble crochet groups on row (= neck). I.e. insert marker threads around chain space on the outside of these 8-8-8 treble crochet groups.
Begin from wrong side at star - see chart, and work right shoulder as follows: Work A.3a around chain space in the corner, work A.3b until chain stitch with first marker thread, work A.3c around chain stitch with marker thread. Turn and work next row from right side. Continue like this back and forth until 4 rows have been worked (piece measures approx. 5 cm from crochet square). Fasten off.
Skip the 8-8-8 treble crochet groups for neck and work left shoulder from wrong side as follows:
Work A.3e around chain stitch with marker thread, work A.3b until corner, work A.3d around chain space in the corner. Continue back and forth like this until 4 rows have been worked (piece measures approx. 5 cm from crochet square) - adjust according to right shoulder. Front piece is done, continue from back piece.

SIZE XL, XXL AND XXXL:
Now work outwards in each side as follows:
Fasten strand with 1 double crochet in the corner and continue from wrong side as follows: Work A.3a, A.3b until next corner, A.3c around chain space in the corner. Turn and continue back and forth like this until 2-4-6 rows have been worked from square. Fasten off the yarn and work the same way on opposite side of square. NOTE: Make sure to begin from wrong side so that rows with 4 chain stitches and 1 treble crochet are worked from wrong side and that rows with 3 treble crochets and 1 chain stitch are worked from right side.
Now work along bottom edge on the front piece as follows:
Fasten strand with 1 double crochet around last row in the corner at the bottom edge on front piece and work from wrong side as follows: Work A.3e in the corner (NOTE: work around the last row in corner), work 1-2-3 repetitions of A.3b around the 2-4-6 rows worked outwards in the side, continue with A.3b until the other side, work 1-2-3 repetitions of A.3b around the 2-4-6 rows worked outwards in the side and finish with A.3c in the corner (NOTE: work around the last row in the corner). Continue back and forth like this until 6-6-8 rows have been worked from crochet square. Fasten off. Now work shoulders and neck in opposite side of crochet square as follows:
Insert a marker thread on each side of the middle 8-10-10 treble crochet groups on row (= neck). I.e. insert marker threads around chain space on the outside of these 8-10-10 treble crochet groups.
Begin from wrong side at star - see chart, and work right shoulder as follows: Work A.3e in the corner (NOTE: work around last row in the corner), work 1-2-3 repetitions of A.3b around the 2-4-6 rows worked outwards in the side, continue with A.3b until chain stitch with first marker thread, work A.3c around chain stitch. Turn and work next row from right side. Continue like this back and forth until 4 rows have been worked (piece measures approx. 5 cm from crochet square). Fasten off.
Skip the 8-10-10 treble crochet groups for neck and work left shoulder from wrong side as follows: Work A.3e around chain stitch with marker thread, work A.3b until corner on crochet square, work 1-2-3 repetitions of A.3b around the 2-4-6 rows worked in the side, finish with A.3c in the corner (NOTE: work around last row in the corner). Continue back and forth like this until 4 rows have been worked (piece measures approx. 5 cm from crochet square) - adjust according to right shoulder. Front piece is done, continue from back piece.

BACK PIECE:
Work the same way as on front piece, but when working shoulders and neck, work the first 2 rows over the entire crochet square + over rows worked outwards in each side (applies to size XL, XXL and XXXL) in the different sizes as follows:

SIZE S, M AND L:
Begin in the corner from wrong side and work A.3a around chain space in the corner, work A.3b until next corner, work A.3d around the corner. Work 1 row from right side (= 2 rows).
Then insert 1 marker thread on each side of the middle 8-8-8 treble crochet groups and work shoulders and neck the same way as on front piece, but finish when 2 rows for shoulder have been worked (= 4 rows in total from crochet square). Fasten off.

SIZE XL, XXL AND XXXL:
Begin in the corner from wrong side and work A.3e in the corner (NOTE: work around the last row in corner and the piece does not look like first row in A.3e), work 1-2-3 repetitions of A.3b around the 2-4-6 rows worked outwards in the side, continue with A.3b until the corner on crochet square, work 1-2-3 repetitions of A.3b around the 2-4-6 rows worked in the side and finish with A.3c in the corner (NOTE: work around the last row in the corner and piece does not look like first row in A.3c). Work 1 row from right side (= 2 rows). Then insert 1 marker thread on each side of the middle 8-10-10 treble crochet groups and work shoulders and neck the same way as on front piece, but finish when 2 rows for shoulder have been worked (= 4 rows in total from crochet square). Fasten off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams - sew in outer loop of edge stitch from wrong side with 1 strand Delight and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Insert a marker thread around chain stitch after 6-6-7-7-8-9 treble crochet groups (3 treble crochets) down from shoulder seam in each side side of armhole = approx. 15-15-18-18-20-25 cm from shoulder seam and down on front piece in each side (marks armholes). Repeat on back piece.
Work side seam together through both layers and from wrong side with 1 strand Delight and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands) as follows: Begin at marker threads marking one armhole and work 1 double crochet around chain stitch, *4 chain stitches, skip 3 treble crochets, 1 double crochet around next chain stitch *, work from *-* down to part worked back and forth at the bottom of tunic (= approx. 8-5-5-8-8-10 cm vent). Repeat in the other side.

SLEEVE:
Work in the round from armhole and down.
Begin mid under armhole at marker thread and work in the round from round with arrow with 1 strand Delight and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands) as follows: Work A.4, work 4-4-5-5-6-9 repetitions of A.5b up to shoulder seam, work first treble crochet in A.5b in the middle of shoulder seam and continue until 4-4-5-5-6-9 repetitions of A.5b have been worked from shoulder seam and 2 treble crochet groups remain before marker thread under sleeve, work A.6. Continue in the round like this until A.4, A.5b and A.6 have been worked vertically. 2 treble crochet groups have been decreased under sleeve = 10-10-12-12-14-16 treble crochet groups for sleeve. Now work in the different sizes as follows:

SIZE S AND M:
Work A.5a (shows how round begins and finishes), then work A.5b a total of 10-10 times on round and work A.5c. Continue like this until sleeve measures 44-43 cm in total (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders) – adjust to finish after a round that is last round in A.5b. Fasten off. Work the other sleeve the same way.

SIZE L, XL, XXL AND XXXL:
Continue in the round from round with arrow in diagram A.4, A.5b and A.6 as before until diagrams have been worked 1-1-2-2 more times (2-2-3-3 times in total vertically from armhole) = 10-10-10-12 treble crochet groups for sleeve. Now work as follows: Work A.5a (shows how round begins and finishes), then work A.5b a total of 10-10-10-12 times on round and work A.5c. When sleeve measures 41-39-38-36 cm in total (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders) – adjust to finish after a round that is last round in A.5b, fasten off. Work the other sleeve the same way.

NECK EDGE:
Begin with 1 strand Delight and 1 strand Kid-Silk and fasten strand with 1 double crochet in seam on shoulder and work first front piece, then back piece as follows:
ROUND 1: Skip first row, work (3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around next row) down to first corner in neck (= 4 chain spaces), work (3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet) around each of the chain stitches along last round on square in neck (= 8-8-8-8-10-10 chain spaces), work (3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around next row) up to shoulder seam (= 4 chain spaces), skip first row on shoulder/neck on back piece, work (3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around next row) down to first corner in neck (= 3 chain spaces), work (3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet) around each of the chain stitches along last round on square in neck (= 8-8-8-8-10-10 chain spaces), work (3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet around next row) up to shoulder seam (= 3 chain spaces) = 30-30-30-30-34-34 chain spaces around the neck.
Continue in the round with A.7b on round (A.7a shows how round begins and ends). When entire A.7a/A.7b are done vertically, fasten off.

Diagram

symbols = work 5 chain stitches and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in 1st chain stitch made Black dot is beginning of round
symbols = 1 chain stitch
symbols = 3 chain stitches
symbols = 4 chain stitches
symbols = treble crochet around chain stitch/chain space
symbols = at beginning of round replace first treble crochet with 3 chain stitches. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round and work 1 slip stitch in every stitch until first chain space on round.
symbols = at beginning of row work 3 chain stitches
symbols = at beginning of round work 3 chain stitches. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch from beginning of round.
symbols = begin on this round/row, previous round/row has already been worked
symbols = 1 double crochet around chain stitch/chain space/between 2 treble crochets
symbols = at beginning of round work 1 chain stitch. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (26)

country flag MARIA CRISTINA RUCCI wrote:

Buona sera, sto facendo il modello 197-31 , sono arrivata al bordo dello scollo. Non capisco che significa nel giro 1: Saltare la prima riga. Grazie

19.02.2024 - 17:44

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Maria Cristina, deve affiancare il lavoro nella cucitura delle spalla e lavorare sul davanti, saltando la prima riga che incontra. Buon lavoro!

21.02.2024 - 08:54

country flag MARIA CRISTINA RUCCI wrote:

Grazie mille per l'aiuto che mi avete dato. Mi scuso per avervi richiesto nuovamente la risposta, ero molto ansiosa di andare avanti con il lavoro e la vostra è arrivata quasi contemporaneamente alla mia richiesta . Di nuovo grazie e se avrò ancora bisogno, mi permetterò di scrivervi. Buona serata

03.02.2024 - 19:46

country flag MARIA CRISTINA RUCCI wrote:

Come mai non avete risposto alle mie domande? Non riesco ad andare avanti con il lavoro

03.02.2024 - 08:36

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Maria Cristina, abbiamo risposto alle sue domande. Come riportato nelle pagine dei modelli solitamente i commenti vengono evasi in 5-10 gg lavorativi. Buon lavoro!

03.02.2024 - 10:41

country flag MARIA CRISTINA RUCCI wrote:

Non so se vi è arrivato tutto il messaggio, non lo vedo più. Qual è il penultimo giro dello schema A.2a/A.2b? Come mai il 1^ giro in fondo dello schema A.3a inizia lo stesso con i gruppi di 3m.alte e come deve finire il giro? Grazie

29.01.2024 - 11:53

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Maria Cristina, il penultimo giro di A,2a/A.2b è quello con le 3 maglie alte attorno alla catenella/arco di catenelle. Per il diagramma A.3a abbiamo risposto nell'altra richiesta. Buon lavoro!

03.02.2024 - 10:39

country flag MARIA CRISTINA RUCCI wrote:

A.3a e come deve finire il giro ? Grazie

29.01.2024 - 11:48

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Maria Cristina, A.3a rappresenta l'inizio del giro, poi prosegue con A.3b e finisce con A.3c. Buon lavoro!

03.02.2024 - 10:37

country flag Darlene Huber wrote:

Hi, I love Drops patterns, but, while the front and back of this one is easy to understand, the sleeves make no sense at all. Why are you jumping around between charts? Wouldn’t it make more sense to use one chart that is simplified? I am re-writing the sleeves for myself so it is understandable and still decreases the same number of double crochet groups, but I shouldn’t have to. The pattern should have been written in an easier formto begin with.

31.10.2023 - 04:04

country flag Linda Wheeler wrote:

I already wrote my comment, but I will restate it here. I love Drops, but the current patterns are undecipherable. If you want to trade yarn for my willingness to help you, please let me know at my email address. Best, Linda

17.06.2023 - 15:11

country flag Linda Wheeler wrote:

I am a long time user of your patterns. I see some critical and distressed comments above. If you need help getting back on track, I will make a mock-up that anyone could follow, and send it to you in exchange for yarn.. Please know that I love Drops, and want to help your company, AND your customers. You may respond to me at my email, below. Sincerely, Linda

17.06.2023 - 15:07

country flag Milja wrote:

Hello Drops! How is it possible that every single one of your patterns is written in such a confusing way? Also the drawn pattern pieces are a nightmare. I wouldn't recommend these to anyone. Consider yourself intelligent and lucky if you can decipher these pieces at all.

18.07.2022 - 16:11

country flag Marilù wrote:

Buona sera, sto facendo questo modello e non vedo la spiegazione di quando e dove iniziare ad unire gli 2 quadretti (non vedo ne anche la voce che indica 2 quadretti! Mi potrebbe aiutare per favore? Grazie!

03.11.2021 - 18:37

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Marilù, sotto il paragrafo "confezione" è spiegato come procedere. Buon lavoro!

03.11.2021 - 19:03