Summer Ride by DROPS Design

Crocheted bikini top with multi-colored pattern and ties. Size: S - XXXL Piece is crocheted in DROPS Safran.

Keywords: bikinis, colorwork
  • Summer Ride / DROPS 190-4 - Crocheted bikini top with multi-colored pattern and ties. Size: S - XXXL Piece is crocheted in DROPS Safran.
  • Summer Ride / DROPS 190-4 - Crocheted bikini top with multi-colored pattern and ties. Size: S - XXXL Piece is crocheted in DROPS Safran.
  • Summer Ride / DROPS 190-4 - Crocheted bikini top with multi-colored pattern and ties. Size: S - XXXL Piece is crocheted in DROPS Safran.
  • Summer Ride / DROPS 190-4 - Crocheted bikini top with multi-colored pattern and ties. Size: S - XXXL Piece is crocheted in DROPS Safran.
DROPS design: Pattern e-269
Yarn group A
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Size: S/M – L/XL – XXL/XXXL
Materials:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-50-50 g color 18, off white
50-50-50 g color 53, light purple or use color 05, light blue purple.
50-50-50 g color 01, light pink
50-50-50 g color 28, orange
50-50-50 g color 15, dark heather
50-50-50 g color 51, petrol

Piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group A)” - see link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 2.5 mm – or size needed to get 28 double crochets = width 10 cm / 4''.

ACCESSORIES: Wooden beads 1 cm / 3/8'' in diameter. 14 pieces for all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Cotton
from 1.65 $ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 1.65 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.90$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. Choose diagram for your size.
A.3 shows how bikini is assembled. A.4 shows how tassels are made. A.5 shows how to fasten straps.

CROCHET INFORMATION:
Work alternately from right and wrong side.
Beginning every row with double crochets with 3 chain stitches (= first double crochet) and finish with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of row, turn piece.

COLOR PATTERN:
When changing color at the beginning of a new row work as follows: Work last double crochet with first color but wait with last pull through. Switch to new color, work last pull through. and 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of row. Turn piece and work 3 chain stitches (= beginning of new row).
When changing color in a row work as follows: Work 1 double crochet with first color but wait with last pull through. Switch to new color, work last pull through with new color.
When working with two colors place strand for the color not worked over stitches from previous row, work around the strand so that it is hidden and follows in the round. Make sure to avoid tights yarn and not to tighten yarn when picking it up from previous row.
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BIKINI TOP:
First work 2 loose bra cups. Fasten these together mid front with a tie. Make a loop in each side, and pull ties through the loops and tie in a cross on the back.

BRA CUP:
Work 30-30-36 chain stitches on hook size 2.5 mm with off white. Then work from first row in A.1 (choose diagram for your size) – read CROCHET INFO and COLOR PATTERN and REMEMBER CROCHET GAUGE, as follows: Work A.1a over the first 24-24-30 chain stitches (= 4-4-5 repetitions), A.1b over the next 4 chain stitches, work the first 3 double crochets in A.1c over the last 2 chain stitches, then continue in the round on opposite side of chain stitches (= 29-29-35 chain stitches) and work the last 2 double crochets in A.1c in the second of these chain stitches (see arrow in diagram), then work A.1d over the next 4 chain stitches and A.1e over the last 24-24-30 chain stitches (= 4-4-5 repetitions).
SIZE S-M:
Continue pattern like this until A.1c is done vertically = 85 double crochets on last row.
SIZE L/XL:
Repeat first row in A.1a/b/d/e 1 more time vertically (i.e. 1 round with off white) before working these diagrams AT THE SAME TIME continue on 2nd row in A.1c. Continue pattern like this until A.1c is done vertically = 91 double crochets on last row.
SIZE XXL/XXXL
Repeat first row in A.1a/b/d/e 3 more times vertically (i.e. 1 round with off white) before working these diagrams AT THE SAME TIME continue on 2nd row in A.1c. Continue pattern like this until A.1c is done vertically = 113 double crochets on last row.

ALL SIZES:
Work A.2a over the first 24-24-30 double crochets (= 4-4-5 repetitions), A.2b over the next 4 double crochets, work A.2c over the next 10-15-15 double crochets, A.2d over the next 9-5-15 double crochets, A.2e over the next 10-15-15 double crochets, A.2f over the next 4 double crochets, A.2g over the last 24-24-30 double crochets (= 4-4-5 repetitions). Continue pattern like this until A.2 is done vertically = 91-97-121 double crochets on last row.
Work next row with off white as follows: 1 chain stitch, skip 1 double crochet, * 1 single crochet in next double crochet, 2 chain stitches, 1 single crochet in same double crochet, skip 1 double crochet *, work from *-* until 2 double crochets remain, work 1 chain stitch, skip 1 double crochet, 1 single crochet in last double crochet. Fasten off.
Work another bra cup the same way.

STRAPS:
See diagram A.3.
Cut 4 lengths offwhite of 6 metres each. Twine the strands tog until they resist, fold the strands double so that they twine. Tie a knot in each end, approx. 10 cm / 4'' from the end. Place strap double, thread loop from right side between 2 double crochets in the top corner on one bra cup. Then pull yarn ends through the loop and tighten. Make another tie the same way, and pull it in between 2 double crochets approx. 5-5-6 cm / 2''-2''-2½'' from corner.
Work strap the same way on the other bra cup.
Pull each end through 1 wooden bead and make a knot - see diagram A.4a. Cut 8 strand off white of 10 cm / 4'' and tie another knot with string from knot – tie this in the middle of strands. This is done to get a fuller tassel. Tie 1 strand off white approx. 1 cm / 3/8'' down from bead. Cut the end.

LOOPS:
Cut 4 lengths offwhite of 1 metres each. Twine the strands tog until they resist, fold the strands double so that they twine. Tie a knot in each end, approx. 10 cm / 4'' from the end. Place strap double, thread loop from right side between 2 double crochets in the bottom corner on bra cup. Pull yarn ends through loop on the front - leave a loop of approx. 10 cm / 4'' - see diagram A.5. Tighten carefully at the back and tie a knot.
Pull one end through 1 wooden bead and make a knot - see diagram A.4b. Cut 8 strand off white of 10 cm / 4'' and tie another knot with string from knot – tie this in the middle of strands. This is done to get a fuller tassel. Wrap one strand dark heather approx. 8 times, approx. 1 cm / 3/8'' down from bead (see black square). Cut the end. Do the same on the other end but with orange.
Work this loop the same way on the other bra cup.

TIE MID FRONT:
Cut 4 lengths offwhite of 4 metres each. Twine the strands tog until they resist, fold the strands double so that they twine. Tie a knot in each end, approx. 10 cm / 4'' from the end. Pull tie (bottom up) between 2 double crochets from one bra cup to the other, zig-zag, 3 times in total, then pull the end from the top down on the other bra cup the same way. Tie a bow at the front.
Pull one end through 1 wooden bead and make a knot - see diagram A.4c. Cut 20 strand off white of 15 cm / 6'' and tie another knot with string from knot – tie this in the middle of strands. This is done to get a fuller tassel. Wrap one strand dark heather approx. 16 times, approx. 1 cm / 3/8'' down from bead (see bottom black square). Wrap one strand orange approx. 8 times, above the wooden bead (see top black square). Cut the end. Do the same on the other end.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = 1 chain stitch with off white
symbols = 1 double crochet in stitch with off white
symbols = 1 double crochet in stitch with light pink
symbols = 1 double crochet in stitch with light purple or light blue purple
symbols = 1 double crochet in stitch with orange
symbols = 1 double crochet in stitch with dark heather
symbols = 1 double crochet in stitch with petrol
symbols = row has already been worked, begin on next row!
symbols = work in chain stitch arrow points to
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
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Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 190-4) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (6)

country flag Ana61 wrote:

I just bought the cotton fir that pattern but the pattern in french is not understandable. i am very disappointed

07.09.2019 - 17:36

country flag Sharan Stanwood wrote:

Well, the answer to my previous comment stating there are problems with this pattern was only defense. I have made some suggestions for this pattern on my R account, which is my 1st name with 555, if anyone else is confused. To begin with, start with 33-33-39 chain stitches, and dc in the 4th ch from hook.

28.08.2019 - 23:43

country flag Sharan Stanwood wrote:

Your diagrams A.1a thru A.etc, along with the written explanations, are impossible to understand. The A charts are not numbered, so there is confusion as to where to start; the * makes no sense, it does not say which size is relevant; and more, make this pattern utterly impossible! And I am an Advanced crocheter!! I could create the bikini top just by looking at it; however a pattern should make sense in ALL languages it\'s translated into, with internationally recognized symbols.

12.08.2019 - 21:01

DROPS Design answered:

Der Mrs Stanwood, The DROPS patterns are knitted and crocheted by thousands and thousands of people  around the world. We understand however that in certain countries, with different knitting/crochet traditions than Scandinavia, our patterns might be written in a way that differs from what some are used to. But of course we want everyone to understand our patterns, so that’s why we have created an extensive library of tutorial videos as well as step by step lessons that explain how to follow the techniques we use and how to read the diagrams in our patterns. Give them a try!

13.08.2019 kl. 08:45

country flag Cristina wrote:

Se realiza con aguja de 2.5mm o de 35mm? no me queda claro

07.08.2018 - 20:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Cristina, el patrón se realiza con aguja de 2.5 mm. Se trataba de una errata, ya está corregido.

07.08.2018 kl. 21:24

Toby wrote:

This is very confusing. Plus it says there’s not a USA translation.

29.06.2018 - 23:11

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Toby, our translators work continiously to get the patterns in every language as fast as possible. This pattern is already available in US version. Happy Crafting!

01.07.2018 kl. 03:32

Jing wrote:

Dear, I really love the above bikini pattern, but I can't understand the diagram and the words explanation. they confused me. Would you please write to me more details, like how to start with, and where's the beginning etc? And does this bra cup crochet directly or need to crochet different parts and then sew them together to make one piece of bra? Appreciate if more information, thank you. Sincerely, Jing

27.06.2018 - 06:46

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jing, each bra cup will be worked separately starting in the middle of piece and crocheting back and forth on each side of the fundation chain, and increasing on one end of the chain to create the rounded edge towards mid front (the side where you will turn at the end of each row will be straight - see measurement chart. Follow then diagrams starting on row after the one with the star and reading from RS right to left and from WS left to right. Happy crocheting!

27.06.2018 kl. 08:29

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