DROPS / 190 / 6

Waterfront Bikini by DROPS Design

Crocheted bikini with fan pattern. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Safran.

  • Waterfront Bikini / DROPS 190-6 - Crocheted bikini with fan pattern. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Safran.
  • Waterfront Bikini / DROPS 190-6 - Crocheted bikini with fan pattern. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Safran.
DROPS Design: Pattern no e-278
Yarn group A
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BIKINI TOP:
Sizes: S/M – L/XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-100-100-100 g color 19, red

BIKINI PANTIES:
Sizes: S/M – L/XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-100-100 g color 19, red

NOTE: The amounts of yarn are given for each part; if you are working both parts you will need a total of 150-150-150-200 g Safran.

The piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3 MM / C – or the size needed to get 24 single crochets and 22 rows on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Cotton
from 2.35 $ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 2.35 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.70$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.

CROCHET INFORMATION:
At the beginning of each row of single crochets, work 1 chain stitch (the chain stitch does not replace the first single crochet).
At the beginning of each row of double crochets, work 3 chain stitches (the chain stitches does not replace the first double crochet).

PATTERN-1 (for panties):
* 1 row of single crochets, 1 row of double crochets *, work from *-* to finished length.

DECREASE TIP (for panties):
Decrease on a row of double crochets as follows:
* Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 2 single crochets, but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through on both of these double crochets, make 1 yarn over and pull it through all 3 loops on the hook *, work 1 double crochet in each single crochet until there are 2 single crochets left, repeat from *-* (= 2 double crochets decreased).
Decrease on a row of single crochets as follows:
* Work 1 single crochet in each of the first 2 double crochets, but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through on both of these single crochets, make 1 yarn over and pull it through all 3 loops on the hook *, work 1 single crochet in each double crochet until there are 2 double crochets left, repeat from *-* (= 2 single crochets decreased)

INCREASE TIP (for panties):
Increase 2 double crochets in each side of one row as follows: Work 3 double crochets in the first single crochet, work 1 double crochet in each single crochet until there is 1 single crochet left, work 3 double crochets in the last single crochet.
Increase 1 double crochet in each side of one row as follows: Work 2 double crochets in the first single crochet, work 1 double crochet in each single crochet until there is 1 single crochet left, work 2 double crochets in the last single crochet.
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BIKINI TOP:
First work 2 loose cups. Then work the cups together.

RIGHT CUP:
First work a square, then continue back and forth along 2 sides of the square.
SQUARE:
Work 23-25-29-31 loose chain stitches with hook size 3 mm / C and Safran. Turn and work 1 single crochet in the 2nd chain stitch from the hook, work 1 single crochet in each of the remaining 21-23-27-29 chain stitches = 22-24-28-30 single crochets. Then continue working back and forth with 1 single crochet in each single crochet – read CROCHET INFORMATION. Work a total of 21-23-27-29 rows.
The next row is worked as follows (= from the wrong side): Work 1 single crochet in each of the first 21-23-27-29 single crochets, 3 single crochets in the next single crochet, 1 single crochet around each of the next 21-23-27-29 rows = 45-49-57-61 single crochets.
TOP:
The next row is worked as follows (= from the right side): Work 1 single crochet in each of the first 22-24-28-30 single crochets, 2-3-3-3 single crochets in the next single crochet, 1 single crochet in each of the next 22-24-28-30 single crochets down the side = 46-51-59-63 single crochets.
The next row is worked as follows (= from the wrong side): Work 1 single crochet in each of the first 23-26-29-31 single crochets, 0-0-3-3 single crochets in the next single crochet, 1 single crochet in each of the next 23-25-29-31 single crochets = 46-51-61-65 single crochets.
The next row is worked as follows (= from the right side): Work 1 single crochet in each of the first 23-26-31-32 single crochets, 0-0-0-2 single crochets in the next single crochet, 1 single crochet in each of the next 23-25-30-32 single crochets = 46-51-61-66 single crochets.
Then continue working back and forth with 1 single crochet in each single crochet. Work a total of 14-16-18-20 rows.
The next row is worked as follows (= from the wrong side): Work A.1a, A.1b a total of 8-9-11-12 times in width, A.1c and A.1d. Continue until A.1 has been completed in height. Cut and fasten the strand.

LEFT CUP:
Work in the same way as for right cup, but all rows from right side = wrong side and all rows from wrong side = right side.

EDGE:
Now work the 2 cups together. NOTE: Make sure you work over both cups from the right side!
Start in the corner of the right cup – see circle on sketch. Work 1 single crochet around the first row, * 3 chain stitches, skip 3 rows, 1 single crochet around the next row *, work from *-* along the whole side, insert 1 marker in this corner, continue along the bottom of the cup and work 1 single crochet in each of the 22-24-28-30 single crochets, 1 single crochet around each of the 14-16-18-20 rows, 4 single crochets around the outermost row of the lace pattern. Then continue over the left cup, work 4 single crochets around the outermost row of the lace pattern, work 1 single crochet around each of the 14-16-18-20 rows, 1 single crochet in each of the 22-24-28-30 single crochets, insert 1 marker here, continue along the side of the cup and work 1 single crochet around the first row, * 3 chain stitches, skip 3 rows, 1 single crochet around the next row *, work from *-* along the whole side, continue up to the corner of the left cup – see triangle on the sketch. Cut and fasten strand.
Now work over the single crochets from marker to marker (= 80-88-100-108 single crochets); work as follows starting from the wrong side: Work 1 single crochet in each single crochet AT THE SAME TIME as the number of stitches is adjusted to 81-86-96-101 single crochets. Turn and work 1 single crochet in each single crochet.
The next row is worked as follows (= from the wrong side): A.1a, A.1c, A.1b a total of 15-16-18-19 times in width and A.1d. Continue until A.1 has been completed in height, cut and fasten strand.

CORD:
Work a row of chain stitches of approx. 120-130-150-160 cm / 47 ¼"-51 1/8"-59"-63". Fold the cord double, thread the loop through a chain-space in the top corner of the cup, pull the cord through the loop. Make another cord in the same way and fasten it to the other cup.
Work a row of chain stitches of approx. 90-100-120-130 cm / 35 3/8"-39 3/8"-47 ¼"-51 1/8". Fold the cord double, thread the loop through a chain-space in the bottom corner of the cup, thread the cord through the loop. Make another cord in the same way and fasten it to the other cup.
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BIKINI PANTIES:
The panties are worked in double crochets and single crochets, with an edge on front and back pieces and ties in the sides. You start at the top of the front piece and work through to the back piece in one go.

Work 78-90-95-113 chain stitches with hook size 3 mm / C and Safran. Turn and work 1 double crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook, then work 1 double crochet in each of the next 4-1-1-4 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 4 chain stitches *, work from *-* a total of 14-17-18-21 times = 61-70-74-89 double crochets. Read CROCHET INFORMATION! Then work PATTERN-1 – see description above and on the next row decrease 1 double crochet in each side – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this on every row of double crochets a total of 16-18-19-21 times and every 3rd-3rd-2nd-2nd row of single crochets a total of 5-6-7-11 times = 19-22-22-25 double crochets / single crochets. The piece measures approx. 18-20-22 cm / 7''-8''-8¾'' – REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! Continue with pattern-1 without increases until the piece measures 22-25-27-29 cm / 8 5/8"-9 ¾"-10 5/8"-11 3/8". On the next row with double crochets increase 2 double crochets in each side – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this on every row of double crochets a total of 11-14-16-17 times, then increase 1 double crochet on each row of double crochets a total of 9-6-5-4 times = 81-90-96-101 double crochets. Continue with pattern-1 as before until the piece measures 45-49-51-54 cm / 17 5/8"-19 ¼"-20"-21 ¼" – adjust so that the last row is worked with double crochets.

EDGE:
Work 1 single crochet in each single crochet AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 0-1-0-0 single crochets = 81-91-96-101 single crochets. The next row is worked as follows: Work A.1a, A.1b a total of 16-18-19-20 times in width, A.1c and A.1d. Continue until A.1 has been completed in height. Cut and fasten strand.
Work an edge along the front piece in the same way – NOTE: You skip the chain stitches which have not been worked in.

CORD:
Work a row of chain stitches of approx. 70-90-100-110 cm / 4''. Fold the cord double, thread the loop through a chain-space in the top corner of the panties, pull the cord through the loop. Make a total of 4 cords and fasten at each corner.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = chain stitch
symbols = single crochet
symbols = double crochet in stitch
symbols = double crochet around chain stitch
symbols = treble crochet in stitch
symbols = 4 chain stitches
symbols = row already worked - Start on next row!
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 190-6) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (24)

country flag Lilia 30.06.2021 - 19:45:

Zweite Frage: (sorry bin häkel-ungeübt, ich stricke mehr) wie soll ich das gegengleich häkeln für den zweiten brustcup verstehen? muss man da jeweils eine reihe mehr oder weniger häkeln damit man das richtig hinbekommt?

user icon DROPS Design 01.07.2021 kl. 08:56:

Liebe Lilia, die Hin-Reihen beim rechten Quadrat/Cup sollen Rückreihen beim linken Quadrat/Cup sein, und die Rückreihen beim rechten Quadrat/Cup sollen Hinreihen beim linken Quadrat/Cup sein, so werden Sie beide spiegelverkehr. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

country flag Lilia 30.06.2021 - 19:42:

Beim quadrat und oberteil, " Insgesamt 21-23-27-29 Reihen häkeln." und "Hin und zurück weiterhäkeln, mit 1 festen Masche in jede feste Masche. Insgesamt 14-16-18-20 Reihen häkeln.": ist hier jeweils gemeint, insgesamt mitsamt den zuvor in der art gehäkelten reihen? oder soll man nach der ersten reihe feste maschen bzw. den beschriebenen reihen die um die ecke gehen neu zählen?

user icon DROPS Design 01.07.2021 kl. 08:54:

Liebe Lilia, die 21-23-27-29 Reihen sind von der Luftmaschenkette gezählt und die 14-16-18-20 Reihen sind ab 1. Reihe vom OBERTEIL gezählt. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

country flag Karoline 29.04.2021 - 11:21:

Hej Jeg forsøger at følge diagrammet for mønsteret, men jeg har nogle spørgsmål. 1. Mellem fm i bunden af diagrammet er der ind i mellem nogle mellemrum. Betyder det at man skal springe en maske over? 2. Hvad vil det sige, at rækken allerede er hæklet? Skal man springe stjernemarkøren over og dermed en maske ift forrige række fra bh-skålen? Håber i kan hjælpe Karoline

user icon DROPS Design 03.05.2021 kl. 13:32:

Hei Karoline. Mellomrommet har ingen betydning. For at det skal være enklere å se hvor man skal hekle / i hvilken maske, er forrige rad tegnet inn i diagrammet. Når du skal starte med A.1a ser du at luftmasken du skal hekle er over en fastmaske fra forrige rad. Når du skal hekle A.1b, hekler du 1 luftmaske, hopp over 1 fastmaske fra forrige rad, 1 stav i neste fastmaske (stjernen viser bare at dette er forrige rad), 3 luftmasker, 1 stav i neste fastmaske, hopp over i fastmaske, 1 luftmaske og 1 fastmaske i neste fastmaske (fra forrige rad) osv. mvh DROPS design

country flag Clara 06.04.2021 - 23:22:

Salve, non riesco a capire come fare la coppa sinistra, potete spiegarmi meglio grazie mille !

user icon DROPS Design 07.04.2021 kl. 14:13:

Buongiorno Clara, deve lavorare la coppa sinistra come la destra, lavorando al contrario, cioè le righe sul diritto del lavoro saranno sul rovescio e viceversa. Buon lavoro!

country flag Nuria 06.08.2020 - 17:14:

Buenas tardes, estoy empezando con la primera copa y estoy ya en la fila de 51 puntos bajos. Y veo que la forma no me esta quedando, es como si en cada lado en cuanto he empezado con esta parte y teniendo los puntos que decis, me queda mas ancho, uqedandome como dos puntas en ambos lados ( inicio y final) y lo que comento, tengo los 51 puntos para la talla L. Por qué puede ser? Como lo puedo solucionar? Puede ser que el punto quede mas largo que ancho? Gracias.

user icon DROPS Design 18.01.2021 kl. 09:23:

Hola Nuria, al final la copa no sera plana y fa forma debe ser apropiada. Buen trabajo!

country flag Abier 26.07.2020 - 12:06:

Diesen Abschnitt der Anleitung verstehe ich nicht wo genau fängt man an ? Ich sehe auf dem Bild keine Reihe mit den 3 luftmaschen?\r\nIn der Ecke des rechten Brustcups beginnen – siehe Kreis in der Maßskizze. 1 feste Masche um die erste Reihe, * 3 Luftmaschen, 3 Reihen überspringen, 1 feste Masche um die nächste Reihe *, von *-* an der ganzen Seite entlanghäkeln,

user icon DROPS Design 27.07.2020 kl. 10:51:

Guten Tag, Sie beginnen oben am rechten Brustup, an der Spitze also. In der Skizze ist dies mit einem Kreis gekennzeichnet. Sie befestigen den Faden dort mit 1 festen Masche am Rand, d.h. um die erste Reihe oben in der Ecke. Dann häkeln Sie am senkrechten Rand nach unten entlang - also an den senkrechten Reihen entlang. Sie häkeln zuerst 3 Luftmaschen, dann zählen Sie 3 Reihen weiter und häkeln um den Rand der nächsten Reihe 1 feste Masche. Gutes Gelingen!

country flag Cropperhopper 07.07.2020 - 23:16:

I am trying to crochet the bra, but I'm confused with the directions. Right after top directions, it says to crochet in 24 single crochets. Then 3 in the next. Then to sc around each of the next 23 crochet rows. What is meant by the last sentence? Do I skip the remaining sc? Do I crochet around the whole piece? I'm also confused about the next part too.

user icon DROPS Design 08.07.2020 kl. 08:16:

Dear Cropperhopper, you will now crochet in the stitches from previous row (where you worked 23 sc as before + 3 sc + 23 sc along the next side of piece = 49 sc), ie you work 1 sc in each of the first 23 sc + 1 in the first of the 3 sc, 3 sc in the next sc (the one in the middle of previous row), 1 sc in the next sc + 1 sc in each of the 23 sc = there are 24 sc + 3 sc in the same st + 24 sc = 51 sc. This means you now work along 2 sides of the piece. Happy crocheting!

country flag Allene 13.06.2020 - 14:31:

Just finished making this. Haven't tested the panties in the water, but the top holds up really well. Made the top in XXXL because I am rather curvy. Had to modify how I attached the neck ties for comfort and add a cord to kind of lace up the middle so it would stay put. If anyone is interested, making the largest top and a size L for the bottoms, this still took just under 3 balls of Safran using a 3mm hook.

country flag Kato 25.05.2020 - 11:05:

Hey klein vraagje ik zou graag eens proberen een bikini te breien, dit is mijn eerste keer dus ik weet niet heel goed welke wol ik moet gebruiken welke breinaalden en hoeveel bollen wol? alvast bedankt voor uw antwoordt Mvg Kato

user icon DROPS Design 01.06.2020 kl. 10:37:

Dag Kato,

Voor de bikini in dit patroon heb je garen uit categorie A nodig, namelijk DROPS Safran. Het beste kies je katoen voor een bikini en geen wol. Bij de materialen staat aangegeven hoeveel gram garen je nodig hebt (meestal weegt 1 bol 50 gram) en welke naalddikte je nodig hebt. Maak altijd een proeflapje om te controleren of de stekenverhouding overeenkomt en pas evt. de naalddikte aan.

country flag Ewelina 15.05.2020 - 13:19:

What about cup D?

user icon DROPS Design 15.05.2020 kl. 16:07:

Dear Ewelina, it might be eeasy to make it bigger but we are very sorry we are unfortunately not able to adjust every pattern to every single request. You are welcome to contact your DROPS store or any crochet forum for further individual assistance. Happy crocheting!

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