DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
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DROPS Buttons
Arched (white) No. 521

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Celestina

Knitted baby body with lace pattern and cables. Sizes premature - 4 years. Piece is worked in DROPS BabyMerino.

DROPS Baby 31-6
DROPS Design: Pattern no bm-076-by
Yarn group A
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Sizes: (<0) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size equivalent to approx. child’s length in cm:
(40/44) 48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104)
Materials:
DROPS BABYMERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
(100) 100-100-100-150 (150-150) g colour 11, ice blue

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 3 MM – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 32 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 CM) SIZE 2.5 MM for the rib and garter stitch edges – or the size needed to get 26 stitches and 51 rows garter stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height

DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, ARCHED (white), NO 521: 5 items in all sizes.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..

INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.16. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side. When you have too few stitches to work a cable, continue with knit over knit and purl over purl.

INCREASE TIP:
Work until there is 1 stitch left before the marker, 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), knit 2 stitches (the marker sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased). The yarn overs are worked twisted on the next round to avoid holes.

RAGLAN:
The decreases are different on front/back pieces and on sleeves – read DECREASE TIP!
FRONT/BACK PIECE: Decrease on each row from the right side (= every 2nd row) as follows: Decrease 1 stitch a total of (7) 6-4-8-6 (3-0) times, then 2 stitches a total of (1) 4-6-5-7 (10-13) times.
SLEEVE: Decrease a total of 2 stitches on each sleeve on every row from the right side (= every 2nd row) a total of (6) 7-5-9-8 (6-3) times, then every row (4) 6-10-8-10 (14-20) times.

DECREASE TIP (for raglan):
BACK PIECE:
All decreases are made from the right side.
DECREASE 1 STITCH: Decrease to raglan on the left back piece as follows: Knit twisted together the 2 stitches after the 5 band stitches (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease to raglan on the right back piece as follows: Knit together the last 2 stitches before the 5 band stitches (= 1 stitch decreased).
DECREASE 2 STITCHES: Decrease to raglan on the left back piece as follows: Knit twisted together the 3 stitches after the 5 band stitches (= 2 stitches decreased).
Decrease to raglan on the right back piece as follows: Knit together the last 3 stitches before the 5 band stitches (= 2 stitches decreased).
FRONT PIECE:
DECREASE 1 STITCH ON EACH SIDE OF THE MIDDLE STITCH: Work until there is 1 stitch left before the stitch with marker mid front, slip 2 stitches as if to knit, knit 1, pass the 2 slipped stitches over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).
DECREASE 2 STITCHES ON EACH SIDE OF THE MIDDLE STITCH: Work until there are 2 stitches left before the stitch with marker mid front, slip 3 stitches as if to knit, knit 2 together, pass the 3 slipped stitches over the knitted together stitches (= 4 stitches decreased).
SLEEVE:
Work as far as the marker thread in the transition between body and sleeve, knit twisted together the first 2 stitches on the sleeve (= 1 stitch decreased), work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread in the transition between body and sleeve, knit together the last 2 stitches on the sleeve (= 1 stitch decreased = a total of 2 stitches decreased on each sleeve).

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = knit together the third and fourth stitch from the edge and make 1 yarn over.
Work buttonholes when the piece measures:
<0: 1 and 3 cm.
0/1 MONTH + 1/3 MONTHS: 1 and 4 cm.
6/9 MONTHS + 12/18 MONTH: 1 and 4½ cm.
2 YEARS + 3/4 YEARS: 1 and 5 cm.
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BODY:
The piece is worked back and forth, bottom up. First in 2 small parts both for the front and back pieces, which are then worked together; back and forth to where the front and back pieces are worked together and then you continue in the round with circular needle.
The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles. The parts are put together and the yoke is worked back and forth, i.e. there will be a split mid back. The garment will stretch in width by approx. 3-5 cm when worn.

FRONT PIECE:
You first work 2 small parts (edges at bottom of gusset), which are put together, and then you continue by working these together back and forth.
Cast on 5 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm and BabyMerino. Knit 1 row. Then work A.1 (= 5 stitches). When A.1 has been worked 1 time in height, there are 9 stitches on the needle. Lay the piece to one side and work 1 more part in the same way. Put the pieces together and work A.2 over the stitches (first row = from the wrong side) = 21 stitches. Cut the strand. Lay the piece to one side and work the back piece.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on and work as for front piece

BODY:
Now put the pieces together and the work is continued in the round as follows:
* Cast on (16) 22-24-28-30 (34-38) new stitches, continue working from the right side over the back/front piece: Work A.3 over the first 9 stitches, A.4 over the next 3 stitches (insert 1 marker in the middle stitch A.4 = mid front/mid back = middle stitch), A.3 over the last 9 stitches, cast on (16) 22-24-28-30 (34-38) new stitches, insert 1 marker thread (= the side) *, work from *-* a total of 2 times = (106) 130-138-154-162 (178-194) stitches (= (53) 65-69-77-81-(89-97) stitches between marker threads). The marker threads sit in the sides and the markers sit mid front/mid back.
Then work as follows: * Work A.5a over the first 12 stitches, A.6 over the next (4) 6-6-6-6 (6-6) stitches, repeat A.7 over the next (0) 4-6-10-12 (16-20) stitches, work pattern as before (i.e. A.3) until there is 1 stitch left before the stitch with marker (= mid front/ mid back), work A.4 over the next 3 stitches, work pattern as before until there are (16) 22-24-28-30 (34-38) stitches left before the marker thread in the side, repeat A.8 over the next (0) 4-6-10-12 (16-20) stitches, A.9 over the next (4) 6-6-6-6 (6-6) stitches, A.10a over the last 12 stitches before the marker thread in the side * (i.e. the pattern is mirror image on each side of the stitch with marker mid front/mid back), work from *-* a total of 2 times.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Continue the pattern in this way. In other words, on every 2nd row decrease 2 stitches mid front/mid back and increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread in each side, so that the number of stitches stays the same. The pattern continues as before to finished length, i.e. continue with knit over knit, garter stitch over garter stitch, purl over purl and cable over cable (the pattern decreases mid front/mid back and increases to new pattern in each side of the piece).

SIZE <0:
When A.5a and A.10a have been worked 1 time in height, * work A.13 over the first stitch in A.5a, A.5b over the next 18 stitches, pattern as before until there are 19 stitches left before the marker thread in the side, A.10b over the next 18 stitches, A.14 over the last stitch before the marker thread in the side *, work from *-* a total of 2 times.

SIZES 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 MONTHS (2 - 3/4) YEARS:
When A.5a and A.10a have been worked 1 time in height, * work A.11a over the first stitch in A.5a, A.5b over the next 18 stitches, work pattern as before until there are 19 stitches left before the marker thread in the side, A.10b over the next 18 stitches, A.12a over the last stitch before the marker thread in the side *, work from *-* a total of 2 times.
When A.11a and A.12a have been worked 1 time in height * work A.13 over the first stitch in A.11a, A.11b over the next 8 stitches, pattern as before until there are 9 stitches left before the marker thread in the side, A.12b over the next 8 stitches, A.14 over the last stitch before the marker thread in the side *, work from *-* a total of 2 times.

ALL SIZES:
Repeat A.13 and A.14 and pattern as before in height until the piece measures (7) 9-13-13-14 (14-17) cm measured along the marker thread in the side, adjust so that the last stitch increased in the side is knitted.
Then work * A.15a over the first stitch in A.13, continue with pattern as before until there is 1 stitch left before the marker thread in the side, A.16a over the last stitch before the marker thread *, work from *-* a total of 2 times.
When A.15a and A.16a have been worked 1 time in height * work A.13 over the first stitch in A.15a, A.15b over the next 11 stitches, pattern as before until there are 12 stitches left before the marker thread in the side, A.16b over the next 11 stitches, A.14 over the last stitch before the marker thread *, work from *-* a total of 2 times. Continue the pattern like this until the piece measures a total of (14) 16-20-20-21 (24-27) cm, adjust so that the last round is an increase/decrease round. Then work the next round as follows: Cast off the first 4 stitches, work pattern as before until there are 4 stitches left before the marker thread in the side, cast off the next 8 stitches, work pattern as before until there are 4 stitches left on the round, cast off the last 4 stitches = 8 stitches cast off for armhole in each side of the piece = (90) 114-122-138-146 (162-178) stitches = (45) 57-61-69-73 (81-89) stitches on both the front and back pieces. Cut and fasten the strand. Lay the piece to one side and work the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles. Cast on (36) 40-40-40-44 (44-48) stitches with double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and BabyMerino. Work rib (= knit 2 /purl 2) for 3 cm. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm. Then continue with stocking stitch. Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round
When the piece measures 8 cm increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker – read INCREASE TIP. Repeat the increase every (0) 4-3-2-2 (2- 2½) cm a total of (1) 2-4-6-7 (9-10) times = (38) 44-48-52-58 (62-68) stitches.
Work until the piece measures (12) 16-20-20-24 (29-35 cm). This measurement gives the sleeve approx. 3-5 cm to fold at the cuff. Cast off 4 stitches on each side of the marker (= 8 stitches in total) = (30) 36-40-44-50 (54-60) stitches. Lay the piece to one side and work 1 more sleeve in the same way.

YOKE:
Place the sleeves on the same circular needle as the body where stitches were cast off for armholes = (150) 186-202-226-246 (270-298) stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in all transitions between body and sleeves (= 4 marker threads).
The piece is now continued back and forth from 2 stitches before mid back (i.e. 2 stitches before stitch with marker) from the right side and decrease to RAGLAN - see description above, as follows: Work 5 stitches GARTER STITCH – see description above, (= band) – see BUTTONHOLE, work pattern as before and decrease to raglan, cast on 5 new stitches at the end of the row (= band).
Continue like this. The band is worked in garter stitch to finished length.
When the decreases to raglan are finished, there are (79) 83-83-91-99 (103-107) stitches on the needle. Change to circular needle size 2.5 mm. Work 2 ridges AT THE SAME TIME as you decrease on the first row (19) 19-19-23-23 (25-25) stitches evenly on row (do not decrease over the band stitches) = (60) 64-64-68-76 (78-82) stitches. Cast off.

BOTTOM EDGE:
The piece is worked back and forth.
BACK PIECE:
Knit up approx. 14-16 stitches along the bottom edge of the back piece (bottom of gusset) with double pointed needles size 2.5 mm. Work 3 ridges. Cast off.

FRONT PIECE:
Knit up and work as for back piece, but work 3 buttonholes evenly on the 3rd row, by knitting 2 stitches together and making a yarn over; the yarn overs are knitted on the next row to leave holes. Cast off.

EDGE AROUND LEGS:
The piece is worked back and forth. Knit up approx. (42) 54-58-66-68 (76-84) stitches with circular needle size 2.5 mm, make sure the edge is not tight; knit up more stitches if necessary. Work 3 ridges. Loosely cast off. Work the edge around the other leg in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew openings under sleeves. Sew the left band under the right band.
Sew 2 buttons onto the left band in the neck and 3 buttons at bottom of body on the back piece.

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For hat see DROPS number 31-7.
For socks see DROPS number 31-8.
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Diagram

	= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
	= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
	= cast on 1 new stitch
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; yarn over is worked twisted on next round to avoid a hole
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; yarn over is not worked twisted on next round/row to leave a hole
	= slip 2 stitches as if to knit, knit 1, pass the 2 slipped stitches over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased)
	= no stitch
	= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2, pass the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted stitches
	= place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches from the cable needle
	= place 2 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches from the cable needle
	= place 3 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 3 stitches, knit 3 stitches from the cable needle
	= place 3 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 3 stitches, knit 3 stitches from the cable needle

© 1982-2025 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Grace to Celestina 2nd S

Adela, Austria

Comments / Questions (26)

Janett wrote:

Hei, jeg er nesten ferdig med bodyen og skal nå strikke riller langs kanten rundt beina. Skal det drikkes opp masker helt fra ytterste maske på for- og bakstykket, eller skal jeg stoppe når de tre rillene til for- og bakstykket starter slik at det blir en "klaff" når den skal kneppes sammen?

13.11.2024 - 11:15

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Janett. Først strikker du en kant nederst, både på bakstykket og forstykket. Når det strikkes en kant til forstykket felles det også til knappehull. Disse to kantene blir da "klaffen". Så strikkes det kant rundt beina og da plukkes det opp masker i de 3 rillene, både på forstykket og bakstykket. mvh DROPS Design

18.11.2024 - 11:40

Hei, er det feil i oppskriften på antall masker når forstykket og bakstykket er satt sammen i str 6/9? Jeg får 150 masker etter å ha lagt opp 28 masker totalt fire ganger, og strikket A.3 og A.4 som skal felle midtmaskene (to ganger) på første runde. Eller skal fellingen skje på samme runde som i økningen på A.5a og A.10a slik at mønsteret på A.3 og A3. skal starte øverst? Takk for svar!

14.10.2024 - 10:20

Hei Janett. Når du har strikket de 2 første delen (A.1) og satt de sammen og har strikket A.2 ferdig i høyden skal du ha 21 masker på pinnen. Dette gjøres både til forstykket og bakstykket = 21 +21 = 42 masker. Nå legges det opp nye 28 masker+ strikk A.3 (over 9 masker) + A.4 (over 3 masker) + A.3 (over 9 masker) + legg opp 28 nye masker = 77 masker. Dette strikkes 2 ganger = 77+77=154 masker. Alle diagram starter nederst til høyre. mvh DROPS Design

23.10.2024 - 07:09

Hà Vân wrote:

I have to admit I am confused. In the instructions for the body, when A.15 a and A.16 a have been worked 1 tỉme in height, how many times A3, A4, A6, A7, A8 have been worked in height? And how many stitches are there when body pattern finished. In the instructions for the size >0,, when A.11 a and A.12 a have been worked 1 tỉme in height, how many times A13, A14 have been worked in height? Thank you!

17.07.2022 - 11:39

Dear Hà Vân, the number of times you will repeat in height will depends on your tension, repeat each diagram from row 1 as soon as it has been finished (the decreases in A.4 are worked on every other round; the cables in A.5b/A.10b are worked on every 4th round, etc) - when all increases are done you should have 106 sts (45 sts for front and back piece + 8 sts cast off on each side for armholes). Happy knitting!

01.08.2022 - 10:33

Sara Holst wrote:

Noget giver ikke mening. Jeg skal slå 22 masker op 4 gange hvilket bliver 88 masker plus front og ryg stykkerne hvilket er 21 masker gange 2 så 42 =130. MEn så skal jeg gøre A.4 Hvilket opgiver 4 masker så kommer vi ned på 126 . Men der står at jeg skal have 130 ( total of 2 times = (106) 130). Så i den runde, skal jeg lave A4 og så total masker er 126 eller bare strik den "slå masker op" runde så jeg har 130 masker?

29.05.2022 - 11:57

Hei Sara. Du legger opp 22 masker, strikker A.3 over de første 9 maskene, A.4 over de neste 3 maskene , A.3 over de siste 9 maskene (du har nå strikket over 21 masker / den ene delen av de 2 delene som var satt samen), legg opp 22 nye masker. Du har nå strikket over 22+21+22 = 65 masker. Så gjør du dette 1 gang til, du har da strikket over 65+65 masker = 130 masker. mvh DROPS Design

30.05.2022 - 10:00

Barbara Handke wrote:

Hallo liebes Drops Team, ich habe eine Frage zu der Abnahme bei den Raglanärmeln. Ist es denn korrekt, dass bei den Ärmeln auf beiden Seiten des Markierungsfaden immer nur die Maschen rechts zusammengestrickt werden. Muss nicht auf der einen Seite eine Masche rechts abgehoben werden, die nächste rechts gestrickt und dann die abgehobene drüber gezogen werden? Bin mir gerade unsicher, ob man mit nur rechts zusammenstricken eine schöne Schräge bekommt? oder? Vielen Dank für eine Antwort.

21.02.2022 - 15:42

Liebe Frau Handke, ja stimmt, vor der Markierung muss man 2 Maschen rechts verschränkt stricken - eine Korrektur erfolgt. Danke für den Hinweis. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

21.02.2022 - 16:12

Mini wrote:

I am slightly confused. I have now connected front and back, while knitting A.4 on the same round as I cast on new masks. Should I on the next round do A.5? That would result in increasing extra masks on the round where I do not decrease, is this correct? As I can read later in the instructions, I have to close off for the sleeves on the round where I do not increase/decrease. What have I misunderstood? Thanks for an otherwise nice knitting pattern.

30.12.2021 - 22:53

Dear Mini, after you have cast on the new stitches and work the first row in A.3/A.4, work one more round knitting the new stitches and working the 2nd row in A.3/A.4, then start with A.5, A.6, A.7. Rounds starts in one side of the piece - A.4 is on mid back and mid front, just as before. Happy knitting!

03.01.2022 - 10:18

Maiju wrote:

Kysymykseni koskee raglankavennuksia, kun etukappaleessa kavennetaan kaksi silmukkaa keskisilmukan molemmin puolin = työstä kaventui 4 silmukkaa. Jos työssä nostetaan neulomatta 3 silmukkaa yhden neulotun silmukan yli, eikö silloin myös kavennu 3 silmukkaa? Selventäisittekö, miten kavennus kuuluisi tehdä niin, että saisin neljän silmukan kavennuksen täsmäämään symmetrisesti?

12.09.2021 - 20:45

Vera Kjærstad wrote:

Når jeg prøver og skrive ut denne oppskriften fra mobilen blir diagramforklaring og alle diagrammer borte. Håper dette er noe dere kan rette på.

20.03.2021 - 11:43

Hei Vera. Husk å trykke på "Skriv ut" knappen og velg oppskrift, så skal det fungere. Om ikke, må du sjekke dine innstillinger. mvh DROPS design

22.03.2021 - 15:46

Sarah wrote:

I am already confused at diagram A.1.. when the pattern says to start with 5 stitches, and A.1 shows you to yarn over twice in the first row, I get 7 stitches in total and not 9 as stated in the pattern - what am I doing wrong?

05.09.2020 - 10:33

Dear Sarah, you are right that after first row you will get 7 sts, but after WHOLE A.1 (in height, = 3 rows) you will get 9 sts as stated in pattern. Happy knitting!

05.09.2020 - 19:56

Sigrun Joensen wrote:

Det kan betale sig at sove på problemet. Nu har jeg fundet ud af opskriften og er godt i gang nu.

13.04.2020 - 21:15

Celestina

Knitted baby body with lace pattern and cables. Sizes premature - 4 years. Piece is worked in DROPS BabyMerino.

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Pattern instructions

Diagram

How to read a size chart

How to read knitting diagrams

How to measure the knitting tension and how to calculate a pattern

How to change yarns or yarn amounts

How to choose yarn

How can I get help with a DROPS pattern?

How to cast on

How to knit stitches

How to work purl stitches

How to decrease stitches

How to cast off from the right side

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Celestina

Knitted baby body with lace pattern and cables. Sizes premature - 4 years. Piece is worked in DROPS BabyMerino.

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	DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 100% Wool	3.50 £ /50g	Order
	DROPS Baby Merino mix 100% Wool	3.50 £ /50g	Order

	DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 100% Wool 3.50 £ /50g Order
	DROPS Baby Merino mix 100% Wool 3.50 £ /50g Order