DROPS Baby / 31 / 7

Celestina Hat by DROPS Design

Knitted baby hat with cables and garter stitch. Sizes 1 month - 4 years. The piece is worked in DROPS BabyMerino.

DROPS Design: Pattern no bm-078-by
Yarn group A
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Sizes: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Fits head size: 40/42 - 42/44 - 44/46 (48/50 - 50/52) cm
Materials:
DROPS BABYMERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to Yarn group A)
50-50-50 (50-50) g colour 11, ice blue

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see link below.

DROPS NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM – or the size needed to get 26 stitches and 34 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.
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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 3.10£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. Choose diagram for your size.
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HAT:
The piece is worked back and forth from mid back and is sewn together mid back to finish. Cast on 123-129-135 (141-147) stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side) with needle size 2.5 mm and BabyMerino. Work 4 RIDGES – see description above.
Then work the next row from right side as follows: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 1, A.1 (= 1 stitch) (= 1 stitch increased), * A.2 over the next 21-22-23 (24-25) stitches, A.3 over the next 3 stitches (= 2 stitches decreased), A.4 over the next 21-22-23 (24-25) stitches, A.5 over the next 2 stitches (= 1 stitch increased) *, A.1 over the next stitch, 9-10-11 (12-13) stitches in garter stitch, A.3 over the next 3 stitches (= 2 stitches decreased) (= mid front of hat), 9-10-11 (12-13) stitches in garter stitch, A.5 over the next 2 stitches, A.1 over the next stitch (= 1 stitch increased), work from *-* 1 more time, finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Then work next row from wrong side as follows:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, *A.5 over 3 stitches, A.4 over 20-21-22 (23-24) stitches (i.e. skip last square in diagram, this stich in A.4 has been decreased in A.3), A.3 over 3 stitches, skip 1st square in diagram A.2, and work the remaining stitches in A.2 over 20-21-22 (23-24) stitches *, A.1 over 2 stitches, A.5 over 3 stitches, 8-9-10 (11-12) stitches in garter stitch (i.e. the stitches in garter stitch are decreased in A.3), A.3 over 3 stitches, 8-9-10 (11-12) stitches in garter stitch (i.e. one stitch in garter stitch has been decreased in A.3), A.1 over 2 stitches, work from *-* 1 more time, A.1 over 2 stitches, purl 1 stitch and finish with 1 stitch in garter stitch.
I.e. There will be 1 stitch less in each A.2 and A.4 (i.e. skip 1 square in the diagram for every 2nd row of diagram A.2 and A.4) and 1 stitch less in garter stitch in mid front on each side of A.3 on every 2nd row because of the decrease in A.3.
Continue the pattern like this, i.e. decrease 1 stitch on each side of each A.3 on every row from the right side (= 6 stitches decreased), and increase 1 stitch in each of A.1 and A.5 (= 6 stitches increased). In other words, the number of stitches stays the same, you increase and decrease the same number of stitches, but the ridges mid front and the patterns in A.2 and A.4 are will disappear. Continue with knit over knit, purl over purl, garter stitch over garter stitch and cable over cable. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A.1 and A.5 have been worked 1 time in height, continue with knit over knit and garter stitch over garter stitch over these stitches, i.e. do not increase any more. When you do not have enough stitches for the cables, do not work cables; the remaining stitches here are worked in stocking stitch Continue the pattern as before over the remaining stitches, i.e. decrease 6 stitches every 2nd round (= 2 stitches by each A.3), until there are 21 stitches left on the needle. The piece measures approx. 16-16-17 (17-18) cm from the bottom tip of the first and last A.3 (= ear flaps).
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Knit 1, knit 2 together, 15 stitches pattern as before, knit 2 together, knit 1 = 19 stitches.
Decrease like this in each side every row (from the wrong side purl together the 2 stitches before and after the edge stitches) until there are 5 stitches left on the needle. Cut the yarn and pull the end through the remaining stitches and tighten.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the hat together mid back inside the 1 edge stitch.
The middle tip of the 3 whole tips (= A.3) on the cast-on edge goes down onto the forehead mid front.

CORD:
Cast on 4 stitches with needle size 2.5 mm. Work as follows: * Knit 1, move the strand to front of piece (towards you), slip 1 stitch as if to purl, move the strand to back of piece again (away from you) *, work from *-* 1 more time and then continue in the same way on all rows to finished length.
You have now worked a round cord. Cast off when the cord measures approx. 20-22-24 (26-28) cm. Work 1 more cord in the same way. Sew the cords to the bottom tip of each ear-flap in each side.

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For body see DROPS number 31-06.
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This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 04.05.2018
Pats of the instructions have been re-written to further clarify the pattern

Diagram

= Knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
= no stitch due to dec on previous round, proceed to next symbol
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, the yarn over is worked twisted on the next row to avoid a hole
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2, pass the slipped stitch over
= Place 2 stitches on a cable needle in front of the piece, knit 2, knit 2 from the cable needle
= Place 2 stitches on a cable needle at the back of the piece, knit 2, knit 2 from the cable needle
= slip 2 stitches as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitches over

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 31-7) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (49)

Kirsten 29.07.2020 - 11:42:

Hei! Jeg strikker i str 6/9mnd og etter første rad mønster står jeg med 4 masker igjen. Når jeg legger sammen antall masker i mønsteret blir det bare 125 masker strikket. Hva gjør jeg med de resterende 4 av 129 masker?

DROPS Design 05.08.2020 kl. 15:44:

Hej Kirsten, det lyder til at du ikke fået alle udtagninger med ifølge diagrammerne. Prøv at sætte et mærke imellem hver diagram, så du er sikker på at alle masker i diagrammerne strikkes. God fornøjelse!

Kirsten Andersen 12.04.2020 - 08:09:

Efter billedet at dømme ser det ud som om, opskriften er forkert. Skal det ikke spejlvendes, således at snoningerne er øverst på hovedet i begge sider ????

DROPS Design 24.04.2020 kl. 09:47:

Hej Kirsten, opskriften stemmer, sørg for at følge den nøje i den størrelse du strikker. God fornøjelse!

Marie-Louise Rasmussen 21.02.2020 - 15:31:

Hov mente a5 ikke a4

Marie-Louise Rasmussen 21.02.2020 - 15:29:

Oka nu forstod jeg selve opskriftwn, men a1 og a4 kan jeg ikke få til passe med at mine omslag skal strikkes drejet ret for der kommer jeg til en vrang måske ved omslag, jeg har været inde og læse jeres diagram at ret højde til venstre, og vrang venstre til højre men uanset hvad vil jeg ramme et omslag med en vrang maske skal jeg så strikke drejet vrang? Men nogen gange rammer jeg med en ret måske så skal den strikkes dr. Ret?

DROPS Design 24.02.2020 kl. 16:36:

Hej igen, omslaget skal strikkes drejet, men i maskerne du er kommet til ifølge diagrammet. Prøv at strikke en lille prøve af A.4 og A.5 først, så du forstår mønsteret :)

Marie-Louise Rasmussen 18.02.2020 - 22:20:

Hej igen ang mit tidligere spørgsmål, ang. Masker der forsvinder på hver 2 pind dvs, retsiden, skal jeg så selv hver gang regne en maske fra begge diagrammer når jeg har sprunget de masker over på hver anden pind, Fra vrang siden?

DROPS Design 19.02.2020 kl. 10:36:

Hej Marie-Louise, ja du kan gøre det at du sætter et lille mærke imellem hver diagram, da er det let at se hvilke masker som "forsvinder". God fornøjelse!

Marie-Louise Rasmussen 17.02.2020 - 06:36:

Hov et spørgsmål mere når man når til række 3 på retsiden så står der strik 1 kantmaske, 1 ret og derefter begynder mønster, skal jeg stadig på alle ret pinde strikke en kantmaske og 1 ret måske og derefter mønster? Eller var det kun i 1 række jeg skulle teikke en ret måske efter kantmaske?

DROPS Design 18.02.2020 kl. 14:05:

Hej igen, du strikker yderste maske i hver side i retstrik på alle pinde. God fornøjelse!

Marie-Louise Rasmussen 17.02.2020 - 06:22:

Giver ingen mening dette mønster her har strikket 2 pinde og skal på ret siden igen men nu der jo kun 20 masker i a2 og a4 skal jeg så bare stille over de 20 masker? Og slette den jeg hoppede over på vrang siden?

DROPS Design 18.02.2020 kl. 14:04:

Hej Marie-Louise, ja det stemmer, når du tager masker ind ifølge A.3 forsvinder de fra A.4 i den ene side og fra A.2 i den anden side. God fornøjelse!

Elsa 28.12.2019 - 10:57:

Hej, ett par frågor. 1) Ska man sticka från vänster till höger på mönstret på avigsidan? 2) Betyder en rad på mönstret det du ska hålla dig till på ett varv? Det vill säga på A3 ska man varvet efter de 8 rätstickade varven i början, minska 2 maskor på A3 men men på nästa varv (avigsidan) sticka 3 aviga maskor? Vad menar ni då här med " A.3 över 3 maskor, 8-9-10 (11-12) maskor rätstickning (dvs de rätstickade maskorna minskas i A.3)"?

DROPS Design 29.01.2020 kl. 10:57:

Hej Ja på avigsidan stickar du diagrammen från vänster till höger. De olika varven är förklarade i mönstret så det första varvet efter de rätstickade 8 varven stickar du 1 kantmaska i rätstickning, 1 rm, A.1 (=1 m) osv. Om du bara följer det som står beskrivet i mönstret så blir det riktigt. Lycka till!

Johanna 13.11.2019 - 19:41:

Hej! Angående min tidigare fråga den 12 november: symbolen för A3-mönstret (dvs triangeln) syns inte för mig. Istället är det bara som en enda stor vit ruta. Vet inte om det bara är jag som har det problemet, men tänkte att ni kanske vill veta att symbolen inte syns för alla.

Johanna 12.11.2019 - 20:42:

Hej! Jag förstår inte A3 eftersom motsvarande symbol med en triangel inte finns med i första varvet. I texten står det att jag ska minska två maskor över tre maskor, men den enda symbolbeskrivningen jag kan hitta är den med en ”halv” triangel, där 1 maska minskas över 3 maskor. Exakt hur ska jag sticka A3?

DROPS Design 13.11.2019 kl. 08:12:

Hej. Symbolförklaringen till symbolen i A.3 har nu förtydligats. Du ska lyfta 2 maskor över på höger sticka som om de skulle stickas räta, sticka 1 rätmaska och sedan dra de 2 lyfta maskorna över rätmaskan (= 2 maskor minskade). Du hittar en video på hur detta ska göras här. Lycka till!

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