DROPS / 188 / 15

Atlantis Sweater by DROPS Design

Sweater with domino squares, garter stitch, stripes and raglan, knitted top down. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted in DROPS Fabel.

DROPS design: Pattern fa-398
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
350-350-400-450-500-550 g color 340, blue lagoon
100-150-150-150-150-200 g color 114, light pearl gray

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group A)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 – or size needed to get 23 stitches and 45 rows in garter stitch = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') SIZE 2.5 mm/ US 1.5 – or size needed to get 26 stitches and 51 rows in garter stitch = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 3.35 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 3.75 $ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.80$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

GARTER STITCH (back and forth - applies to domino squares):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

RAGLAN (applies to yoke):
SIZE S-M-L-XL:
ROUND 1: Purl all stitches.
ROUND 2: Make 1 yarn over after 1st-3rd-4th-6th marker and 1 yarn over before 2nd-3rd-5th-6th marker (= 2 stitches increased on each sleeve, 2 stitches increased on front and back piece = 8 stitches increased in total on round).
ROUND 3 (and all rounds purled): Purl all stitches, do not work yarn overs twisted; they should make holes.
ROUND 4: Increase 4 stitches on front and back piece as follows: Make 2 yarn overs after 3rd and 6th marker as follows: Work to and with stitch with marker, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over. Make 2 yarn overs before 3rd and 6th marker as follows: Work until 1 stitch remains before stitch with marker, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over (= 4 stitches increased on front and back piece = 8 stitches increased in total on round).
ROUND 6: Work as 2nd round (= 2 stitches increased on each sleeve, 2 stitches increased on front and back piece = 8 stitches increased in total on round).
ROUND 8: Make 1 yarn over after 3rd and 6th marker and 1 yarn over before 3rd and 6th marker (= 2 stitches increased on front and back piece = 4 stitches increased in total on round).
ROUND 10: Work as 2nd round (= 2 stitches increased on each sleeve, 2 stitches increased on front and back piece = 8 stitches increased in total on round).
SIZE XXL-XXXL:
ROUND 1: Purl all stitches.
ROUND 2: Make 1 yarn over after 1st-3rd-4th-6th marker and 1 yarn over before 2nd-3rd-5th-6th marker (= 2 stitches increased on each sleeve, 2 stitches increased on front and back piece = 8 stitches increased on round).
ROUND 3 (and all rounds purled): Purl all stitches, do not work yarn overs twisted; they should make holes.
ROUND 4: Increase 4 stitches on front and back piece as follows: Make 2 yarn overs after 3rd and 6th marker as follows: Work to and with stitch with marker, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over. Make 2 yarn overs before 3rd and 6th marker as follows: Work until 1 stitch remains before stitch with marker, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over (= 4 stitches increased on front and back piece = 8 stitches increased in total on round).
ROUND 6: Work as 2nd round (= 2 stitches increased on each sleeve, 2 stitches increased on front and back piece = 8 stitches increased on round).
ROUND 8: Work as 4th round (= 4 stitches increased on front and back piece = 8 stitches increased in total on round).
ROUND 10: Work as 2nd round (= 2 stitches increased on each sleeve, 2 stitches increased on front and back piece = 8 stitches increased on round).
ROUND 12: Work as 2nd round (= 2 stitches increased on each sleeve, 2 stitches increased on front and back piece = 8 stitches increased on round).

INCREASE TIP-1:
Work 2 stitches in 1 stitch.

INCREASE TIP-2:
Increase with 1 yarn over between 2 stitches. Knit yarn over twisted on next round to avoid hole.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeve):
All decreases are made on a round with knit.
Decrease on each side of marker as follows: Begin 4 stitches before marker, knit 2 together, knit 4 (marker is in the middle of these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

KNITTING TIP (applies to domino squares):
Always pick up stitches from right side.

STRIPES:
Work first row in every stripe from right side (applies to domino squares).
Knit first round in every stripe (applies to sleeves).
Work 1 ridge with light pearl gray.
Work 1 ridge with blue lagoon.

WHOLE DOMINO SQUARE:
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle stitch.
ROW 1 (= wrong side): Knit all stitches.
ROW 2 (= right side): Knit until 1 stitch remains before marker thread, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over stitches worked, knit the rest of row.
Repeat 1st and 2nd row, i.e. decrease 2 stitches in the middle of the square on every other row until 1 stitch remains, cut the yarn and pull it through stitch.

HALF DOMINO SQUARE (horizontal):
Work as whole domino square but in addition to decreasing in the middle of square, slip last stitch at the end of every row on 1 stitch holder. Continue until 7-5-7-7-7-7 stitches remain on needle (= 9-10-10-11-12-13 stitches on stitch holder in each side). Knit 1 row from wrong side and slip last stitch at the end of row on stitch holder = 6-4-6-6-6-6 stitches on needle. Work next row (= from right side) as follows: Knit 1-0-1-1-1-1, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over the 2 stitches worked together (= 2 stitches decreased), knit 1-0-1-1-1-1, slip last stitch at the end of row on stitch holder = 3-1-3-3-3-3 stitches. Slip these stitches on stitch holder as well. Cut and fasten the yarn. There are now 23-23-25-27-29-31 stitches in total on stitch holder.
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SWEATER:
Work yoke in the round, top down. Increase out for raglan on each side of each sleeve and mid front and mid back. When yoke is done, work 1 and 1 domino square back and forth. Work sleeves in garter stitch in the round at the end.

YOKE:
Cast on 106-122-122-134-134-142 stitches on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with blue lagoon. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4.
Work next round as follows:
Right sleeve:
Work 1 stitch in garter stitch and insert 1st marker in this stitch, 1 yarn over, work 22 stitches in garter stitch and increase 0-0-2-2-0-0 stitches evenly, 1 yarn over, work 1 stitch in garter stitch and insert 2nd marker in this stitch (= 26-26-28-28-26-26 stitches).
Front piece:
Work 14-18-18-21-21-23 stitches in garter stitch and increase 0-0-4-0-2-7 stitches evenly, 1 yarn over, work 1 stitch in garter stitch and insert 3rd marker in this stitch (= mid front), 1 yarn over, work 14-18-18-21-21-23 stitches in garter stitch and increase 0-0-4-0-2-7 stitches evenly (= 31-39-47-45-49-63 stitches).
Left sleeve:
Work 1 stitch in garter stitch and insert 4th marker in this stitch, 1 yarn over, work 22 stitches in garter stitch and increase 0-0-2-2-0-0 stitches evenly, 1 yarn over, work 1 stitch in garter stitch and insert 5th marker in this stitch (= 26-26-28-28-26-26 stitches).
Back piece:
Work 14-18-18-21-21-23 stitches in garter stitch and increase 0-0-4-0-2-7 stitches evenly, 1 yarn over, work 1 stitch in garter stitch and insert 6th marker in this stitch (= mid back), 1 yarn over, work 14-18-18-21-21-23 stitches in garter stitch and increase 0-0-4-0-2-7 stitches evenly (= 31-39-47-45-49-63 stitches) = 114-130-150-146-150-178 stitches in total.
Work and increase for RAGLAN - see explanation above, begin on 3rd round. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
Work 3rd to 10th-10th-10th-10th-12th-12th round 1 time = 142-158-178-174-190-218 stitches (= 30-30-32-32-32-32 stitches on each sleeve and 41-49-57-55-63-77 stitches on front and back piece).
Repeat 1st to 10th-10th-10th-10th-12th-12th round 7-7-8-8-7-7 times = 394-410-466-462-526-554 stitches (= 72-72-80-80-88-88 stitches on each sleeve and 125-133-153-151-175-189 stitches on front and back piece).
Then work the first 0-6-0-4-4-8 round 1 more time = 394-434-466-478-542-586 stitches (= 72-76-80-82-90-92 stitches on each sleeve and 125-141-153-157-181-201 stitches on front and back piece).
Piece now measures approx. 18-20-21-22-23-24 cm / 7"-8"-8 1/4"-8 3/4"-9"-9½'' measured along the shoulder. Purl 1 round.
Now divide the piece on next round (knitted):
Right sleeve:
Slip the first 72-76-80-82-90-92 stitches (including stitches with 1st and 2nd marker) on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8-8-8-12-12-12 stitches under sleeve (insert 1 marker thread in the middle of these new stitches).
Front piece:
Knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased), knit until 3rd marker (= 60-68-74-76-88-98 stitches), 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), knit 1 (= stitch with 3rd marker), 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), knit until 2 stitches remain before 4th marker (= 60-68-74-76-88-98 stitches), knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased = 125-141-153-157-181-201 stitches).
Left sleeve:
Slip the next 72-76-80-82-90-92 stitches (including stitches with 4th and 5th marker) on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8-8-8-12-12-12 stitches under sleeve (insert 1 marker thread in the middle of these new stitches).
Back piece:
Knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased), knit until 6th marker (= 60-68-74-76-88-98 stitches), 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), knit 1 (= stitch with 6th marker), 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), knit until 2 stitches remain on needle (= 60-68-74-76-88-98 stitches), knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased = 125-141-153-157-181-201 stitches) = 266-298-322-338-386-426 stitches in total (= 133-149-161-169-193-213 stitches on front and back piece). Cut the yarn. Displace the round so that it begins mid under right sleeve (i.e. round is displaced to marker thread).
Purl 1 round, do not work yarn overs twisted; they should make holes AT THE SAME TIME increase 5-0-0-0-0-0 stitches evenly before tip mid front – read INCREASE TIP-1, 5-0-0-0-0-0 stitches evenly before marker in the side under left sleeve, 5-0-0-0-0-0 stitches evenly before tip mid back and 5-0-0-0-0-0 stitches evenly before marker under right sleeve = 20-0-0-0-0-0 stitches increased in total = 286-298-322-338-386-426 stitches.
Now slip stitches on 2 stitch holders while at the same time working them as follows:
Work 2 stitches in next stitch (= 1 stitch increased), knit the next 19-19-22-20-23-27 stitches (leave stitch on needle, first domino square is worked over these stitches later), knit until 20-20-23-21-24-28 stitches remain before marker thread under left sleeve, then slip them on stitch holder number 1 (= 103-109-115-127-145-157 stitches on 1st stitch holder), knit 19-19-22-20-23-27, work 2 stitches in next stitch (= 1 stitch increased), knit 20-20-23-21-24-28 stitches, leave stitches on needle (work first domino square under left sleeve over these 41-41-47-43-49-57 stitches), knit until 20-20-23-21-24-28 stitches remain before marker thread under right sleeve, then slip them on stitch holder number 2 (= 103-109-115-127-145-157 stitches on 2nd stitch holder ), knit 20-20-23-21-24-28 and leave them on needle (= 41-41-47-43-49-57 stitches on needle under each sleeve). Cut and fasten the thread.

DOMINO SQUARES:
See chart below, numbers on chart describe which domino square you are working. First work 1 domino square mid under right sleeve (= 1.1). Then work 1 and 1 domino square. Work domino squares with 2 double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4. Pick up stitch with blue lagoon. Work all domino squares in STRIPES and GARTER STITCH – see explanation above, (i.e. work first row in lagoon from wrong side, change color to light pearl gray and then work stripes).

RIGHT FRONT/BACK PIECE:
1ST ROW WITH DOMINO:
DOMINO 1.1:
Now work WHOLE DOMINO SQUARE – see explanation above, over the 41-41-47-43-49-57 stitches under right sleeve.

2ND ROW WITH DOMINO:
DOMINO 2.1:
Slip the last 15-16-17-19-24-26 stitches from stitch holder towards mid front/mid back back on double pointed needles 3.5 mm and pick up 16-17-18-20-25-27 stitches – read KNITTING TIP, on half right side of 1st domino square (pick up more stitches in right side of 1st domino square on 3rd row with domino square later) = 31-33-35-39-49-53 stitches. Work the whole domino square.

DOMINO 2.2:
Pick up 16-17-18-20-25-27 stitches from middle of left side (= half side) of 1st domino square (= towards mid front/mid back), and slip the first 15-16-17-19-24-26 stitches from stitch holder towards mid front/mid back back on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 = 31-33-35-39-49-53 stitches. Work the whole domino square.
Now there is 2 whole domino squares on 2nd row with domino, i.e. 1 domino on each side of the 1st domino square has been worked.

3RD ROW WITH DOMINO:
DOMINO 3.1:
Slip the next 17-18-19-21-24-26 stitches from stitch holder towards mid back/mid front back on double pointed needles 3.5 mm and pick up 18-19-20-22-25-27 stitches in right side of domino square 2.1 = 35-37-39-43-49-53 stitches. Work whole domino square.
DOMINO 3.2:
Pick up 18-19-20-22-25-27 stitches in left side of domino square 2.1 and pick up 17-18-19-21-24-26 stitches on last half in right side of 1st domino square = 35-37-39-43-49-53 stitches. Work whole domino square.
DOMINO 3.3:
Pick up 17-18-19-21-24-26 stitches in last half on left side of 1st domino square and pick up 18-19-20-22-25-27 stitches in right side of domino square 2.2 = 35-37-39-43-49-53 stitches. Work whole domino square.
DOMINO 3.4:
Pick up 18-19-20-22-25-27 stitches in left side of domino square 2.2 and slip the next 17-18-19-21-24-26 stitches from stitch holder towards mid front/mid back back on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 = 35-37-39-43-49-53 stitches. Work whole domino square.
4 domino squares have been worked on 3rd row with domino.

LEFT FRONT/BACK PIECE:
Work 1st to 3rd row with dominos as on right front/back piece.
Now work dominos over both left front/back piece and right front/back piece as explained below and as numbers on chart show.

4TH ROW WITH DOMINO:
DOMINO 4.1:
Slip the next 20-21-22-24-25-27 stitches from stitch holder towards mid front back on double pointed needles 3.5 mm and pick up 19-20-21-23-24-26 stitches in right side of domino square 3.1 = 39-41-43-47-49-53 stitches. Work whole domino square.
DOMINO 4.2 TO 4.4:
Pick up 19-20-21-23-24-26 stitches in one side of domino square from 3rd row and pick up 20-21-22-24-25-27 stitches in one side of next domino square from 3rd row = 39-41-43-47-49-53 stitches. Work whole domino square.
DOMINO 4.5:
Pick up 19-20-21-23-24-26 stitches in left side of domino square 3.4 and slip the next 20-21-22-24-25-27 stitches from stitch holder towards mid back back on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 = 39-41-43-47-49-53 stitches. Work whole domino square.
DOMINO 4.6:
Slip the last 19-20-21-23-24-26 stitches from stitch holder mid back back on double pointed needles 3.5 mm and pick up 20-21-22-24-25-27 stitches in right side of domino square 3.1 = 39-41-43-47-49-53 stitches. Work whole domino square.
DOMINO 4.7 TO 4.9:
Pick up 19-20-21-23-24-26 stitches in one side of domino square from 3rd row and pick up 20-21-22-24-25-27 stitches in one side of next domino square from 3rd row = 39-41-43-47-49-53 stitches. Work whole domino square.
DOMINO 4.10:
Pick up 20-21-22-24-25-27 stitches in left side of domino square 3.4 and slip the last 19-20-21-23-24-26 stitches from stitch mid front back on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 = 39-41-43-47-49-53 stitches. Work whole domino square.
10 domino squares have been worked on 4th row with domino.

5TH ROW WITH DOMINO:
DOMINO 5.1 TO 5.10:
Pick up 21-22-23-25-27-29 stitches in one side of domino square from 4th row and pick up 22-23-24-26-28-30 stitches in one side of next domino square from 4th row = 43-45-47-51-55-59 stitches. Work whole domino square.
10 domino squares have been worked on 5th row with domino.

6TH ROW WITH DOMINO:
DOMINO 6.1 TO 6.10:
Pick up 21-22-23-25-27-29 stitches in one side of domino square from 5th row and pick up 22-23-24-26-28-30 stitches in one side of next domino square from 5th row = 43-45-47-51-55-59 stitches. Work whole domino square.
10 domino squares have been worked on 6th row with domino.

7TH ROW WITH DOMINO:
DOMINO 7.1 TO 7.10:
Pick up 21-22-23-25-27-29 stitches in one side of domino square from 6th row and pick up 22-23-24-26-28-30 stitches in one side of next domino square from 6th row = 43-45-47-51-55-59 stitches. Work HALF DOMINO SQUARE (horizontal) - see explanation above.
10 half domino squares have been worked (horizontally) on 7th row with domino. On each domino 23-23-25-27-29-31 stitches have been slipped on a stitch holder (work an edge over these stitches).
Fasten all yarns.

EDGE:
Work edge in the round in blue lagoon.
Each domino has 23-23-25-27-29-31 stitches slipped on stitch holder = 230-230-250-270-290-310 stitches on stitch holders. Slip stitches back on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4.
Work 2 ridges AT THE SAME TIME on first round increase 4-6-6-7-6-7 stitches evenly over every half domino square (= 27-29-31-34-35-38 stitches on every domino = 40-60-60-70-60-70 stitches increased in total) – read INCREASE TIP-2 = 270-290-310-340-350-380 stitches in total. NOTE! If the edge is tight, increase more stitches in every domino. Loosely bind off.

SLEEVE:
Work sleeves in blue lagoon.
Slip the 72-76-80-82-90-92 stitches from stitch holder back on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 and pick up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-8-12-12-12 stitches cast on under sleeve = 80-84-88-94-102-104 stitches. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve. Work sleeves in garter stitch in the round.
When piece measures 2 cm / 3/4'', decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker (= 2 stitches decreased) - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 9th-8th-8th-7th-6th-5th round 16-17-17-19-22-22 times in total = 48-50-54-56-58-60 stitches. When piece measures 35-33-33-32-31-30 cm / 13 3/4"-13"-13"-12½"-12 1/4"-11 3/4'', adjust so that last round is purled. Work 4 ridges in stripes, work first stripes in light pearl gray.
bind off, make sure to avoid a tight bind-off edge, bind off with 1 larger needle size if needed. Sleeve measures approx. 37-35-35-34-33-32 cm / 14½"-13 3/4"-13 3/4"-13½"-13"-12½'' from where sleeve was divided from body. Work the other sleeve the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= first number shows which row you are on and second number shows with domino it is on row - see explanation in pattern
= knitting direction
= slip sleeve stitches on stitch holder here
= mid back/mid front, chart is drawn top down, the way garment is worked


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 188-15) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (44)

Beata 20.06.2020 - 21:21:

Co to znaczy ? dalej przerabiać 7-7-8-8-7-7 razy okrążenia 1-10-10-10--10-12-12

DROPS Design 23.06.2020 kl. 09:07:

Witaj Beato! Dalej przerabiać 7-7-8-8-7-7 razy okrążenia od 1 do 10 lub od 1-12 (w zależności od rozmiaru, który wykonujesz). Patrz REGLAN (karczek) powyżej. Pozdrawiamy!

Anneke Blanken 24.04.2020 - 15:48:

Klopt het dat in d beschrijving van de raglan Naald 5 niet staat aangegeven maar staat vij naald 4?

DROPS Design 25.04.2020 kl. 20:14:

Dag Anneke,

De 5e naald is een averechte naald en deze brei je als naald 3. Dit geldt ook voor naald 7, 9, enzovoort.

Inger Kyrk 10.04.2020 - 17:09:

Jag fastnade direkt. Det står inte var jag skall sätta markörerna.

DROPS Design 14.04.2020 kl. 11:09:

Hej Under "OK" står det var du ska sätta markörerna. Lycka till!

Catherine 11.01.2020 - 18:19:

This pattern works if 1:1 dominoes decreases are every 4th row instead of every 2nd row for the smaller dominoes. Great pattern though.

Silke 20.12.2019 - 15:49:

Hallo, ich verstehe die Reihe 2 nicht... für die Reihe 2 soll nach und vor dem Markierer bei Größe M je eine Masche zugenommen werden - und das macht dann 8?? Stehe gerade auf dem Schlauch.... Danke schon mal für die Antwort!

DROPS Design 20.12.2019 kl. 16:31:

Liebe Silke, bei der 2. Runde Größe M, stricken Sie: 1 Umschlag nach dem 1.-3.-4.-6. Markierer (= Total 4 Umschläge) und 1 Umschlag vor dem 2.-3.-5.-6. Markierer (= Total 4 Umschläge), Sie haben jetzt 8 Umschläge, davon sind 2 Umschläge/Maschen an jedem Ärmel zugenommen, und 2 Umschläge/Maschen am je Vorderteil und am Rückenteil zugenommen = insgesamt 8 Maschen zugenommen in der Runde). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Catherine Hutton 18.11.2019 - 11:34:

I refer to Mrs Aubrey problem as I don't understand. The chart indicates 1.1 is larger than the other dominoes. If I pick up 57 stitches for 1.1 i get a dominoes the same size. I must be reading it incorrectly but can't see another way. Please clarify.

DROPS Design 18.11.2019 kl. 12:15:

Dear Mrs Hutton, you will knit 2 dominos 1.1: one on the right front piece/back piece + one on the left front piece/back piece (first one under right sleeve, second one under the left sleeve). Then you work the 2nd row of dominos with only 26 sts (larger size) - see domino 2.1. Happy knitting!

Anna Barletta 19.09.2019 - 17:56:

Vorrei sapere, per favore, perché i quadrati, dopo il primo, sono di misura più piccola e diventano poi più grandi verso l'orlo .Forse la maglia è più stretta in vita? Dal grafico non si direbbe.Potrei avere una risposta veloce? È un bellissimo modello,originalissimo, ma complicato,e lo devo realizzare al più presto per il compleanno di una mia amica. Grazie.

DROPS Design 19.09.2019 kl. 19:15:

Buongiorno Anna. I quadrati diventano più grandi verso la parte inferiore della maglia per ottenere una forma finale leggermente ad A, quindi più larga nella parte in basso. Segua con attenzione le indicazioni del testo per ottenere un buon risultato finale. Buon lavoro!

Linda Grauel 26.05.2019 - 09:15:

Vilken otroligt och onödigt krånglig instruktion! Orkar tyvärr inte sticka detta läckra plagg. Varför inte skriva all raglan-specifik information direkt i instruktionen till oket? Och ingenstans hittar jag placeringen av markörarna. MYCKET förvirrande! Era instruktioner brukar faktiskt vara rätt oöversiktliga och knepigt att följa, och kräver en del tålamod och tankearbete (egentligen är ju en instruktion till för att SLIPPA tänka?!) men denna är tyvärr helt omöjlig.

Lynne 01.05.2019 - 13:07:

Hello! Could you please give a yarn quantity for doing the sweater in a single colour? Thank you!

DROPS Design 01.05.2019 kl. 20:00:

Dear Lynne, for single coloured sweater you need 450-500-550-600-650-750 g DROPS Fabel. Happy knitting!

Constnce 18.04.2019 - 12:39:

Bonjour, est-il possible de tricoter ce modèle entièrement au point mousse, sans faire les dominos? Merci

DROPS Design 23.04.2019 kl. 11:42:

Bonjour Constance, si vous ne tricotez pas les dominos, vous devrez recalculer entièrement la partie du bas pour qu'elle tombe juste, il sera plus simple de faire ce pull en suivant les explications ou bien trouver un autre modèle qui correspond davantage à ce que vous souhaitez. Bon tricot!

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