DROPS / 187 / 18

Red Berry Hill by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with stripes, worked sideways. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in 2 strands Brushed Alpaca Silk.

DROPS Design: Pattern no as-092
Yarn group C + C or E
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
75-75-75-75-100-100 g color 04, light beige
75-75-75-100-100-100 g color 06, coral
25-25-25-25-25-25 g color 07, red
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 18, cerise
25-25-25-25-25-50 g color 09, purple
25-25-25-25-25-25 g color 15, light sea green

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group C)" – see link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80) size 7 mm / US 10.75 – or the size needed to get 12 stitches and 16 rows stockinette stitch with 2 strands on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 522: 6 items for all sizes.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 3.95 $ /25g
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour 3.95 $ /25g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 43.45$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

STRIPES (right sleeve, front and back pieces):
STRIPE 1: Work with 2 strands light beige until the piece measures 6-7-8-8-9-9 cm / X'' from the cast-on edge.
Then work stripes as follows:
ROWS 1-4: 1 strand light beige + 1 strand light sea green.
ROWS 5-8: 2 strands light sea green.
ROWS 9-10: 1 strand light sea green + 1 strand cerise.
ROWS 11-12: 2 strands cerise.
ROWS 13-14: 1 strand cerise + 1 strand coral.
ROWS 15-22: 2 strands coral.
ROWS 23-30: 1 strand coral + 1 strand light beige.
ROWS 31-32: 1 strand coral + 1 strand red.
ROWS 33-34: 2 strands red.
ROWS 35-36: 1 strand red + 1 strand cerise.
ROWS 37-40: 2 strands cerise.
ROWS 41-42: 1 strand cerise + 1 strand purple.
ROWS 43-44.: 2 strands purple.
ROWS 45-48: 2 strands light beige.
ROWS 49-54: 1 strand light beige + 1 strand coral.
ROWS 55-58: 2 strands coral
.
ROWS 59-60: 2 strands red.
ROWS 61-62: 1 strand coral + 1 strand light beige.
ROWS 63-68: 2 strands light beige.
ROWS 69-70: 1 strand beige + 1 strand purple.
ROWS 71-72: 2 strands purple.
ROWS 73-74: 2 strands light sea green.
ROWS 75-78: 2 strands cerise.
ROWS 79-84: 1 strand cerise + 1 strand coral.
Then work with 2 strands coral to finished length.

STRIPES (left sleeve, front and back pieces):
STRIPE 1: Work with 2 strands light beige until the piece measures 4-5-6-6-7-7 cm / 1½"-2"-2 1/4"-2 1/4"-2 3/4"-2 3/4'' from the cast-on edge.
Then work stripes as follows:
ROWS 1-21: 1 strand light beige + 1 strand coral.
ROWS 22-25: 2 strands coral.
ROWS 26-31: 1 strand coral + 1 strand light beige.
ROWS 32-33: 2 strands purple.
ROWS 34-35: 1 strand coral + 1 strand red.
ROWS 36-37: 2 strands red.
ROWS 38-39: 2 strands coral.
ROWS 40-43: 2 strands cerise.
ROWS 44-47: 2 strands light sea green.
ROWS 48-51: 1 strand light sea green + 1 strand light beige.
ROWS 52-55: 2 strands light beige.
ROWS 56-57: 1 strand light beige + 1 strand cerise.
ROWS 58-61: 2 strands cerise.
ROWS 62-63: 2 strands light sea green.
ROWS 64-65: 2 strands purple.
ROWS 66-67: 1 strand purple + 1 strand light beige.
ROWS 68-69: 2 strands light beige.
ROWS 70-71: 1 strand light beige + 1 strand coral.
ROWS 72-73: 2 strands coral.
ROWS 74-75: 1 strand coral + 1 strand light beige.
ROWS 76-79: 2 strands light beige.
ROWS 80-81: 1 strand light beige + 1 strand purple.
ROWS 82-83: 2 strands purple.
ROWS 84-86: 2 strands cerise.
ROWS 87-88: 1 strand coral + 1 strand light beige.
Then work with 2 strands coral to finished length (= approx. 3-3-3-4-4-5 cm / 1"-1"-1"-1½''-1½''-2'' + 2 ridges on back piece and 4 ridges on front piece).
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JACKET:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle. The 2 parts are worked sideways from the sleeves towards mid back/front. The jacket is sewn together mid back. The whole piece is worked in 2 strands Brushed Alpaca Silk.

RIGHT SLEEVE, FRONT AND BACK PIECE:
Cast on 36-38-38-40-42-42 stitches with circular needle size 7 mm / US 10.75 and 2 strands light beige. Work 2 RIDGES – see description above. Then work stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side and work STRIPES (right sleeve, front and back pieces) – see description above. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 11-11-10-10-10-9 cm / 4½"-4½"-4"-4"-4"-3½" cast on new stitches at the end of each row in each side as follows: Cast on 1 stitch every 6th row 6-5-5-4-3-2 times, 1 stitch every 2nd row 7-9-9-11-13-14 times and 31-32-34-35-35-37 stitches 1 time = 124-130-134-140-144-148 stitches. The piece measures approx. 40-39-38-36-35-32 cm / 15 3/4"-15 1/4"-15"-14 1/4"-13 3/4"-12½''. Insert a marker thread here. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
Continue stripes, stockinette stitch and 4 stitches garter stitch in each side (= bottom of body on front and back pieces). When the piece measures 14-16-17-20-21-25 cm / 5½"-6 1/4"-6 3/4"-8"-8 1/4"-9 3/4'' work the next row from the right side as follows: 4 stitches garter stitch, 52-55-56-59-60-62 stitches stockinette stitch, place these 56-59-60-63-64-66 stitches for the front piece on a thread, bind off the next 9-9-10-10-11-11 stitches (= 6-6-7-7-8-8 stitches for neck on front piece and 3 stitches for neck on back piece), work stockinette stitch over the next 55-58-60-63-65-67 stitches, 4 stitches garter stitch. There are now 59-62-64-67-69-71 stitches for the back piece.

RIGHT BACK PIECE:
= 59-62-64-67-69-71 stitches. Continue with stripes, stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch garter stitch towards the neck and 4 stitches garter stitch towards the bottom edge as before. On the next row from the neck bind off 1 stitch = 58-61-63-66-68-70 stitches. When the piece measures 22-24-26-29-31-35 cm / 8 3/4"-9½"-10 1/4"-11½"-12 1/4"-13 3/4'' from the marker thread work 2 ridges over all stitches on the row. The piece measures a total of 64-65-66-67-68-69 cm / 25¼''-25½''-26''-26 3/8''-26¾''-27 1/8'' from the cast on edge on the sleeve. Bind off. To avoid the bind-off edge being tight, you can make 1 yarn over after approx. every 5th stitch. The yarn over is bind off as a normal stitch.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 56-59-60-63-64-66 stitches. Start from the wrong side (by the neck) and continue with stripes, stockinette stitch, 1 edge stitch garter stitch towards the neck and 4 stitches garter stitch towards the bottom edge as before, AT THE SAME TIME bind off stitches every row from the neck as follows: bind off 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 2 times = 52-55-56-59-60-62 stitches. When the piece measures 22-24-26-29-31-35 cm / 8 3/4"-9½"-10 1/4"-11½"-12 1/4"-13 3/4'' work 2 ridges over all stitches on the row. Then work buttonholes as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): Knit 8-6-7-5-6-8 stitches, * knit 2 together, 1 yarn over, knit 6-7-7-8-8-8 stitches *, work from *-* a total of 5 times, knit 2 together, 1 yarn over, knit 2 stitches.
ROW 2: Knit all stitches and yarn overs.
Work 1 ridge. The piece measures 26-28-30-33-35-39 cm / 10 1/4"-11"-11 3/4"-13"-13 3/4"-15 1/4'' (= a total of 66-67-68-69-70-71 cm / 26"-26½"-26 3/4"-27"-27½"-28'' from the cast on edge on the sleeve). Bind off. To avoid the bind-off edge being tight, you can make 1 yarn over after approx. every 5th stitch. The yarn over is bind off as a normal stitch.

LEFT SLEEVE, FRONT AND BACK PIECES:
Cast on 36-38-38-40-42-42 stitches with circular needle size 7 mm / US 10.75 and 2 strands light beige. Work 2 ridges. Then work stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side and work STRIPES (left sleeve, front and back pieces) – see description above. AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 11-11-10-10-10-9 cm / ½"-4½"-4"-4"-4"-3½" cast on stitches at the end of the row in each side as follows: Cast on 1 stitch every 6th row 6-5-5-4-3-2 times, 1 stitch every 2nd row 7-9-9-11-13-14 times and 31-32-34-35-35-37 stitches 1 time = 124-130-134-140-144-148 stitches. The piece measures approx. 40-39-38-36-35-32 cm / 15 3/4"-15 1/4"-15"-14 1/4"-13 3/4"-12½''. Insert a marker thread here. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Continue with stripes, stockinette stitch and 4 stitches garter stitch in each side (= bottom of body on front and back pieces). When the piece measures 14-16-17-20-21-25 cm / 5½"-6 1/4"-6 3/4"-8"-8 1/4"-9 3/4'' ' work the next row from the right side as follows: 4 stitches garter stitch, 55-58-60-63-65-67 stitches stockinette stitch, place these 59-62-64-67-69-70 stitches on a thread for back piece, bind off the next 9-9-10-10-11-11 stitches (= 3 stitches for neck on back piece and 6-6-7-7-8-8 stitches for neck on front piece), 52-55-56-59-60-62 stitches stockinette stitch, 4 stitches garter stitch. There are now 56-59-60-63-64-66 stitches for front piece.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 56-59-60-63-64-66 stitches. Continue with stripes, stockinette stitch, 1 edge stitch garter stitch towards the neck and 4 stitches garter stitch towards bottom edge as before, AT THE SAME TIME bind off stitches on each row from the neck as follows: bind off 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 2 times = 52-55-56-59-60-62 stitches. When the piece measures 22-24-26-29-31-35 cm / 8 3/4"-9½"-10 1/4"-11½"-12 1/4"-13 3/4'' ' work 4 ridges over all stitches on the row. The piece measures 26-28-30-33-35-39 cm / 10 1/4"-11"-11 3/4"-13"-13 3/4"-15 1/4'' (= a total of 66-67-68-69-70-71 cm / 26"-26½"-26 3/4"-27"-27½"-28'' from the cast on edge on the sleeve). Bind off. To avoid the bind-off edge being tight, you can make 1 yarn over after approx. every 5th stitch. The yarn over is bind off as a normal stitch.

LEFT BACK PIECE:
= 59-62-64-67-69-71 stitches. Start from the wrong side (at the neck) and continue with stripes, stockinette stitch, 1 edge stitch garter stitch towards the neck and 4 stitches garter stitch towards the bottom edge as before. On the next row from the neck bind off 1 stitch = 58-61-63-66-68-70 stitches. When the piece measures 22-24-26-29-31-35 cm / 8 3/4"-9½"-10 1/4"-11½"-12 1/4"-13 3/4'' work 2 ridges over all stitches on the row. The piece measures 64-65-66-67-68-69 cm / 25¼''-25½''-26''-26 3/8''-26¾''-27 1/8'' from the cast-on edge on the sleeve. Bind off. To avoid the bind-off edge being tight, you can make 1 yarn over after approx. every 5th stitch. The yarn over is bind off as a normal stitch.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the seam mid back inside the bind-off edge on each of the back pieces. Sew the seam under the sleeve and the side seam inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch/outermost stitch. Make sure the seam is not tight! Repeat on the other side. Sew buttons onto left band.

NECK EDGE:
Knit up 54-54- 60-60- 68-68 stitches from the right side of piece with circular
needle size 7 with 2 strands coral. Work 2 ridges back and forth. Bind off knitting. To avoid a tight bind off, make a yarn over after approx. every 5th stitch.
The yarn overs should be bound off as a stitch.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 09.04.2018
Correction: Added neck edge.
Updated online: 04.05.2018
Correction: missing number in the Left sleeve, front and back pieces has been added

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knitting direction left sleeve, front and back pieces
= knitting direction right sleeve, front and back pieces

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 187-18) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (36)

Sandra 06.10.2020 - 20:11:

Hallo ich habe angefangen die Jacke in der Größe XXL zu stricken. Ich habe eine Frage zur Zunahme am rechten Ärmel. Die Zunahmen erfolgen ja beidseitig kaut Anleitung in jeder 2ten und 6ten Reihe. Das heißt ja das ich 2 Maschen in Reihe 2, 2 weitere in Reihe 4 und insgesamt 4 Maschen in Reihe 6 ( 2 in jeder 2ten und 2 in jeder 6ten Reihe) aufnehme. Ist das korrekt? Vielen Dank schon mal vorab.

DROPS Design 07.10.2020 kl. 08:16:

Liebe Sandra, in XXL schlagen Sie nach 10 cm 1 neue Mache am Ende der nächsten 2 Reihen an, dann stricken Sie 4 Reihen ohne Zunahmen, diese 6 Reihen noch 2 Mal wiederholen, dann schlagen Sie 1 Masche am Ende der 2 nächsten Reihen an und diese 2 Reihen 13 Mal stricken, und dann schlagen Sie 35 Maschen am Ende der 2 nächsten Reihen = 42 + 2x3 + 2x13 + 2x35=144 Maschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Isabel 28.06.2020 - 13:10:

I am knitting this cardigan, size M and I agree with Clara and others that there is definitely not enough of the coral wool to complete the garment as stated in the pattern. However I have found that there is way too much cerise.

Clara 02.03.2020 - 11:13:

Materiaal wat bij mijn maat hoort besteld. Nu blijkt dat ik niet genoeg wol hebt voor dit vestje te breien. Er staat wel dat er met 2 draden wordt gebreid. Aangenomen dat dit ook mee genomen is in de te bestellen wol. Er zijn 3 kleuren wat echt niet gaat om die met 2 draden dezelfde kleur te breien. Moest hetzelfde aantal te bestellen wol dan 2x bestellen Zo ja is het onhandig om dit niet vermeld te hebben. Graag zie ik het antwoord in hoe nu verder.

DROPS Design 10.03.2020 kl. 19:30:

Dag Clara,

Als ik het zo bekijk zou de hoeveelheid garen wel moeten kloppen. Als er met meerdere draden gebreid wordt is hier al rekening mee gehouden in de patronen (dus je hoeft nooit het dubbele te bestellen).

Klaasje 14.02.2020 - 10:39:

Met wat voor streeppatroon ga je verder na de markeerdraad?

DROPS Design 23.02.2020 kl. 19:46:

Dag Klaasje,

Je gaat gewoon verder met het streeppatroon waar je mee bezig was. Dus als je bij de rechter mouw en het voor- en achterpand bent ga je verder met de strepen voor dat gedeelte, zoals bovenaan bij 'informatie voor het patroon' beschreven.

Milaine 12.06.2019 - 21:59:

Bonsoir Je viens de le réaliser, il est magnifique et les couleurs vont très bien ensemble Par contre pour la taille L, je recommande de prendre une pelote de couleur corail en plus Je n'avais pas assez de laine couleur corail pour le col, il ne m'en manquait pas beaucoup, j'ai fait le col en couleur cerise Sinon le gilet est beau, chaud et doux Merci pour ce beau modèle

Katharina 18.03.2019 - 17:58:

Tolle Anleitung und ein wunderschönes Ergebnis-flauschig, schimmernd und sehr schön in uni koralle. Die Jacke ist schnell fertig und sieht mit den 3/4 langen Ärmeln toll aus zu Rock und Kleid. Das Alpaka Garn ist ein Traum.

Katharina 20.02.2019 - 22:31:

Zu den Zunahmen am Ärmel folgende Frage: beidseits jeweils am Ende der Reihe heisst dann also, jeweils am Ende der Hinreihe und am Ende der Rückreihe 1 Masche (insgesamt 2) zunehmen? Ist die 1. Zunahmereihe dann auch gleichzeitig die erste von jeder 6. Reihe? Danke und Gruß Katharina

DROPS Design 21.02.2019 kl. 09:58:

Liebe Katharina, Sie nehmen für die Ärmel so zu (in der Grösse XXXL): am Ende der Hinreihe 1 neue Masche zunehmen, am Ende der nächste Rückreihe 1 neue Masche zunehmen, 4 Reihe ohne zunahme stricken, am Ende der nächsten Hinreihe 1 M zunehmen, am Ende der nächsten Rückreihe 1 M zunehmen = Sie haben jetzt 2 M in jede 6. Reihe auf beiden seiten zugenommen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Katja 10.02.2019 - 11:01:

Hallo. Schöne Jacke! Ein bißchen schwierig zu sehen, wie lang die Ärmel sind... sieht so aus als seien sie 3/4 lang? Ich würde sie gern lang stricken. Wären 10 cm/ 16 Reihen mehr ausreichend?

DROPS Design 11.02.2019 kl. 09:46:

Liebe Katja, Sie finden alle Maßen in der Skizze, dh die für den Ärmel sowie die gesamte Länge bzw Breite von einem Ärmel bis die andere, so können Sie vergleichen, mit einer ähnlichen Jacke die Sie gerne haben, und so kalkulieren wieviel Sie cm länger stricken sollen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Ulla 06.02.2019 - 15:24:

Wie sind die Streifen gerechnet ? zum beispiel 4 reihen rot , sind die hin und rückreihen gemeint, oder immer nur die rechten Reihen? Danke für Ihre hilfe.

DROPS Design 06.02.2019 kl. 16:19:

Liebe Ulla, unter den Streifen sind alle Reihen damit gezählt, dh die Hin- sowie die Rückreihen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

ROSA 15.01.2019 - 09:17:

Si se teje en un único color, cuántos gramos son necesarios?

DROPS Design 20.01.2019 kl. 12:08:

Hola Rosa. Depende de la talla vas a necesitar a partir de 225 gr de lana.

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