DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.00 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 22.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Pandereta

Knitted jumper with high neck, raglan and stocking stitch, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Snow.

DROPS 184-14
DROPS Design: Pattern no ee-598
Yarn group E or C + C
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
550-600-650-700-800-850 g colour 07, orange

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group E)" – see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 and 80 cm) SIZE 9 MM – or the size needed to get 10 stitches and 14 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 12 MM – or the size needed to get 8 stitches and 11 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 15 MM – or the size needed to get 7 stitches and 10 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.00 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 22.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RAGLAN:
Increase to raglan on each side of each marker thread. Increase as follows, start 1 stitch before the marker thread: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 stitches (marker thread sits in middle of these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over. Repeat at each marker thread (= 8 stitches increased). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

KNITTING TIP:
To get a neat transition when changing needle size, work * 1 round with the thicker needle, 1 round with the thinner needle *, work from *-* a total of 2 times, then just work with the thicker needle.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
All decreases are worked from the right side!
Knit 1 stitch, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over (= 1 stitch decreased), work until there are 3 stitches left on needle, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased), knit 1.
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JUMPER:
First work the yoke in the round and top down from mid back with double pointed needles/circular needle. Then the front and back pieces are worked separately, back and forth on needle. The sleeves are worked back and forth to finish. The yoke is first worked in the round with double pointed needles size 9 mm, until you have enough stitches to use circular needle size 9 mm, then the front and back pieces are worked with circular needle size 12 mm and finally with circular needle size 15 mm

YOKE:
The piece is worked in the round. Cast on 48-48-50-52-54-56 stitches with double pointed needles size 9 mm and Snow, change to circular needle when you have enough stitches. Work stocking stitch for 10 cm. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Insert 1 marker in the piece, THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Insert 4 marker threads in the piece, the first after 8-8-8-9-9-10 stitches (= half the back piece), the second after 8 new stitches (= sleeve), the third after 16-16-17-18-19-20 new stitches (= front piece) and the fourth after 8 new stitches (= sleeve), there are 8-8-9-9-10-10 stitches left after the last marker thread (= half the back piece). Allow the marker to stay in the same place; the marker threads follow your work onwards! Continue with stocking stitch and increase to raglan – see description above. Increase every 2nd round a total of 11-13-14-16-17-19 times. When all the increases to raglan are finished, there are 136-152-162-180-190-208 stitches on the round. Continue working until piece measures 21-23-24-26-28-30 cm from the marker (the piece measures a total of 31-33-34-36-38-40 cm). The next round is worked as follows: Work the first 19-21-22-25-27-30 stitches (= half the back piece), place the next 30-34-36-39-40-43 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-6-8-8 new stitches under the sleeve, work the next 38-42-45-51-55-61 stitches (= front piece), place the next 30-34-36-39-40-43 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-6-8-8 new stitches under the sleeve, work the last 19-21-23-26-28-31 stitches (= half the back piece).

BACK PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth.
Keep the first 22-24-25-28-31-34 and the last 22-24-26-29-32-35 stitches on the round on the needle, place the 44-48-51-57-63-69 stitches from front piece on a thread = 44-48-51-57-63-69 stitches on back piece. Change to circular needle size 12 mm – READ KNITTING TIP! Insert 1 marker in the piece, THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Work stocking stitch to finished length. When piece measures 21-21-22-22-22-22 cm change to circular needle size 15 mm – REMEMBER KNITTING TIP! When piece measures 40-40-41-41-41-41 cm knit 1 row from the wrong side, then cast off with knit. The piece measures approx. 76-78-80-82-84-86 cm in total, measured from cast-on to cast-off edge.

FRONT PIECE:
Place the 44-48-51-57-63-69 stitches back on circular needle size 12 mm. Work as for back piece.

SLEEVE:
The sleeves are worked back and forth with circular needle and sewn together to finish. Place the 30-34-36-39-40-43 stitches from the thread on circular needle size 12 mm and cast on 3-3-3-3-4-4 new stitches in each side = 36-40-42-45-48-51 stitches. Insert 1 marker in the piece, THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Work stocking stitch. When piece measures 3 cm, decrease 1 stitch in each side of the piece – READ DECREASE TIP. Decrease in this way every 6½-4½-4-3-3-2cm a total of 6-8-9-10-11-12 times = 24-24-24-25-26-27 stitches. When piece measures 29 cm change to circular needle size 15 mm. Continue with stocking stitch until piece measures 43-42-41-40-39-37 cm (shorter measurements in larger sizes because of wider neck and longer yoke). Knit 1 row from wrong side, then cast off with knit. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew side and under-sleeve seams in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch.

Diagram

symbols = knitting direction
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (10)

country flag Robert Sylvie wrote:

Bonjour, pourquoi ne pas tricoter le dos et le devant en rond ensemble ? Cela me paraît plus simple et sans couture, non ? Merci de votre réponse.

06.01.2024 - 07:50

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Robert, c'est probablement un choix de la styliste, notez que les coutures sur les côtés peuvent apporter une sorte de stabilité de l'ouvrage. Bon tricot!

08.01.2024 - 09:46

country flag Noémie wrote:

Bonjour je viens de comprendre j’avais mal lu les explications excusez moi et merci

08.01.2023 - 16:42

country flag Noémie wrote:

Bonjour, pour le raglan, le fil marqueur se trouvant au milieu de la diminution (deux mailles ensembles) il ne suit pas l’ouvrage. Où faut-il le placer à ce moment ? Merci.

08.01.2023 - 16:26

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Noémie, on doit ici augmenter pour le raglan, vous avez 2 mailles pour chaque ligne du raglan, avec 1 fil marqueur entre chaque et vous augmenterez comme indiqué sous RAGLAN, autrement dit, tricotez jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 1 maille avant le fil marqueur, faites 1 jeté, tricotez 2 m end (le fil marqueur est entre ces 2 m), 1 jeté. Répétez à chaque fil marqueur et à chaque tour d'augmentations. Bon tricot!

09.01.2023 - 10:20

country flag Selina wrote:

Why are the front and back knitted separately after the yoke is finished? Thanks.

26.05.2022 - 23:54

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Selina, this might be a designer's choice, adding seams on the side can give more stability to the piece. Happy knitting!

27.05.2022 - 09:09

country flag Cecilia wrote:

Buongiorno mi chiedevo come mai questo maglione non abbia lo scollo piu' pronunciato nella parte anteriore (tipo ferri accorciati tanto per capirci) , non tira una volta indossato; sono una principiante , vi prego di scusarmi se la domanda dovesse sembrare sciocca. Grazie mille per la vostra attenzione Cecilia

10.03.2022 - 09:41

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Cecilia, se preferisce una scollatura diversa può modellarla con dei ferri accorciati. Buon lavoro!

10.03.2022 - 23:10

country flag Annika wrote:

Hvorfor skilles for- og bakstykke etter at man har satt erme-maskene til side? Er det ikke mye enklere å fortsette med glattstrikk rundt og rundt på rundpinne?

23.11.2020 - 23:58

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Annika. Noen liker å strikke frem og tilbake, andre rundt. Om du ønsker å strikke rundt kan du tilpasse oppskriften slik at du kan strikke rundt. mvh DROPS design

24.11.2020 - 11:38

country flag Céline wrote:

Bonjour, je voudrais réaliser le pull Pandereta avec 1 fil Népal et 1 fil Brushed Alpaca Silk plutôt qu'avec 1 fil Eskimo. Est-ce possible ? Si oui, de quelle quantité de chaque qualité de fil ai-je besoin ? Merci.

11.11.2020 - 10:45

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Céline, vous pouvez tout à fait remplacer 1 fil du groupe E = Eskimo par 2 fils du groupe C = Nepal + Brushed Alpaca Silk, naturellement, la texture sera différente car la composition de ces laines est différente - pensez à bien vérifier votre tension au préalable - comme d'habitude - retrouvez ici comment calculer la nouvelle quantité dans les alternatives choisies. Bon tricot!

11.11.2020 - 14:01

country flag Sandie Jackson wrote:

I love the Pandereta pattern and would like to try it but cannot see where the actual pattern is? I can see tips for various sections of the project but not the pattern itself. Thankyou, Sandie Squamish, BC 🇨🇦

13.02.2019 - 18:27

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Jackson, the written explanations always start with some informations about the pattern (techniques used), then you will see SWEATER with some notes about how the pattern will be worked, then start with YOKE below. Happy knitting!

14.02.2019 - 09:49

country flag Caroline wrote:

Jeg skjønner ikke helt hvor mange nøster man trenger til de ulike størrelsene

06.02.2019 - 13:40

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Caroline Størrelse: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL Materialer: DROPS ESKIMO fra Garnstudio S=550-M=600-L=650-XL=700-XXL=800-XXL=850 g farge 07, orange - God fornøjelse!

08.02.2019 - 15:35

country flag FIEYRE wrote:

Ce modèle me plaît énormément, et j\\\'aimerais le réaliser , mais dans une laine + fine avec des aiguilles n° 5/ 5,5 maximum. du coup les explications -notamment pour le raglan- ne sont + les mêmes ! Est-il possible d\\\'avoir les explications adaptées ?\\r\\nD\\\'avance.Merci ! une lectrice-tricoteuse fidèle !

29.11.2018 - 11:31

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Fieyre, nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir ajuster chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande individuelle. Vous pouvez le réaliser tell quel avec une laine du groupe C, mais en tricotant le fil en double avec les mêmes échantillons qu'indiqués ici - voir alternatives. Avec une tension différente, il vous faudra tout recalculer sur la base de votre échantillon et des mesures souhaitées. Bon tricot!

29.11.2018 - 11:58