DROPS / 186 / 31

The Pearl by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater with lace pattern and V-neck. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Kid-Silk.

DROPS Design: Pattern no z-814
Yarn group A + A or C
-----------------------------------------------------------
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
300-300-350-350-400-450 g color 100, off white
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
125-125-150-150-175-175 g color 01, off white

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 5 mm/US 8 – or the size needed to get 17 stitches and 22 rows stockinette stitch with 1 strand of each quality on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 for rib – or the size needed to get 19 stitches and 25 rows stockinette stitch with 1 strand of each quality on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 3.70 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.70 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.90 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order

75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.80 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 5.80 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 5.80 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 51.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1, A.3 and A.5)
The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 104 stitches) minus the stitches you are not decreasing over (e.g. 2 edge stitches in garter stitch) and divide the remaining number of stitches by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 13) = 7.8. In this example, knit approx. every 7th and 8th stitch together.

DECREASE TIP-2:
All decreases are made from the right side!
Decrease as follows before the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch: work until there are 3 stitches left on the row, knit 2 together, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Decrease as follows after the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

INCREASE TIP:
All increases are made from the right side!
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next row, purl the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole.
----------------------------------------------------------

SWEATER:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle, bottom up. You work lace pattern on the front piece. The back piece is worked in stockinette stitch. The sleeves are worked in stockinette stitch, back and forth with circular needle, bottom up.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 104-114-124-134-144-159 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and 1 strand Alpaca + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work rib from the right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, purl 2, (knit 3 / purl 2) until there is 1 stitch left, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue like this until the rib measures 4 cm / 1½''. Change to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8. Knit 1 row from the right side where you decrease 13-15-17-21-21-24 stitches evenly on row (but not over the edge stitches in garter stitch) – read DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced) = 91-99-107-113-123-135 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When the piece measures 5 cm / 2'' decrease 1 stitch in each side – read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease like this approx. every 16-17-12-18-20-13 cm / 6 1/4"-6 3/4"-4 3/4"-7"-8"-5'' a total of 3-3-4-3-3-4 times = 85-93-99-107-117-127 stitches. When the piece measures 40-43-45-45-48-47 cm / 15 3/4"-17"-17 3/4"-17 3/4"-19"-18½'' bind off for the armhole in each side every 2nd row as follows: bind off 4 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 0-2-2-3-5-7 times and 1 stitch 1-1-2-2-3-2 times = 75-75-79-83-83-87 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When the piece measures 53-57-60-61-65-65 cm / 21"-22½"-23½"-24"-25½"-25½'' work garter stitch over the middle 25-25-25-25-25-27 stitches on the row. When you have worked 2 ridges over these stitches, bind off the middle 19-19-19-19-19-21 stitches for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. There are now 28-28-30-32-32-33 stitches on each shoulder. Continue with stockinette stitch, 3 stitches in garter stitch towards the neck and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the armhole. When the piece measures 56-60-63-64-68-68 cm / 22"-23½"-24 3/4"-25 1/4"-26 3/4"-26 3/4'' bind off. Make sure that the bind-off edge is not tight.
Work the other shoulder in the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 105-115-129-133-143-157 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and 1 strand Alpaca + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work rib from the right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, (knit 3, purl 2) over the next 5-10-15-15-20-25 stitches, knit 3, A.1 (choose diagram for your size = 32-32-34-36-36-38 stitches), A.2 (= 23 stitches), A.1 (choose diagram for your size = 32-32-34-36-36-38 stitches), (knit 3 / purl 2) over the next 5-10-15-15-20-25 stitches, knit 3, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue like this back and forth until the diagrams have been completed in height. There are now 91-101-115-119-129-143 stitches on the needle. Change to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8. Now work pattern from the right side as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit the first 8-13-18-18-23-28 stitches at the same time as you decrease 0-1-4-3-3-4 stitches evenly over these stitches (= 8-12-14-15-20-24 stitches in stockinette stitch inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in the side), purl 2-2-3-2-2-3 stitches, A.3 (choose diagram for your size = 22-22-22-26-26-26 stitches), purl 2-2-3-2-2-3 stitches, A.4 (= 21 stitches), purl 2-2-3-2-2-3 stitches, A.3 (choose diagram for your size = 22-22-22-26-26-26 stitches), purl 2-2-3-2-2-3 stitches, knit the next 8-13-18-18-23-28 stitches at the same time as you decrease 0-1-4-3-3-4 stitches over these stitches (= 8-12-14-15-20-24 stitches in stockinette stitch inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in the side), 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 91-99-107-113-123-135 stitches.
Continue back and forth like this, AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 5 cm / 2'' decrease 1 stitch in each side – remember DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease like this approx. every 16-17-12-18-20-13 cm / 6 1/4"-6 3/4"-4 3/4"-7"-8"-5'' a total of 3-3-4-3-3-4 times = 85-93-99-107-117-127 stitches.
Continue the pattern and decrease for the V-neck as described below, AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 40-43-45-45-48-47 cm / 15 3/4"-17"-17 3/4"-17 3/4"-19"-18½'' bind off for the armholes in each side in the same way as for the back piece. Work as follows:
When A.4 has been worked a total of 4-5-5-5-6-6 times in height, work as follows for the different sizes:

Sizes S, L and XL:
Continue with pattern as before over all stitches until you have worked the first 8 rows in A.4. Then work A.5 (choose diagram for your size = 21 stitches) over A.4 (the remaining stitches on the row are worked in pattern as before). On the last row in A.5 increase 1 stitch in the middle stitch in the diagram. Continue from ALL SIZES.

Sizes M, XXL and XXXL:
Continue with pattern as before over all stitches, but work A.5 (choose diagram for your size = 21 stitches) over A.4. On the last row of A.5 increase 1 stitch in the middle stitch in the diagram. Continue from ALL SIZES.

ALL SIZES:
When the whole of A.5 has been worked, place the first half of the stitches from the needle (seen from the wrong side) on a thread for right front piece. The remaining stitches = left front piece.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work back and forth from the right side - NOTE: Binding off for the armhole continues as for back piece.
Work pattern as before as far as A.5, knit until there are 5 stitches left before the division for the neck, knit 2 stitches together (= 1 stitch decreased) and work 3 stitches in garter stitch (= towards the neck). Work back from the wrong side. Continue like this back and forth and decrease for neck on each row from the right side a total of 9-9-9-9-9-10 times. When all the decreases for neck and armhole are finished there are 29-29-31-33-33-34 stitches on the shoulder. Continue until the armhole measures approx. 16-17-18-19-20-21 cm / 6¼''-6¾''-7''-7½''-8''-8¼'' (the piece measures a total of 56-60-63-64-68-68 cm / 22"-23½"-24 3/4"-25 1/4"-26 3/4"-26 3/4'' from the shoulder down), AT THE SAME TIME on the last row decrease 1 stitch by knitting 2 stitches together = 28-28-30-32-32-33 stitches. Bind off. Make sure that the bind-off edge is not tight.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Place the stitches from the thread back onto the circular needle and work back and forth from the right side - NOTE: Binding off for armhole continues as for back piece and left front piece.
Work 3 stitches in garter stitch (from the neck), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over (= 1 stitch decreased), work as far as A.3, and continue the pattern as before to end of row. Continue like this back and forth and decrease to neck on each row from the right side a total of 9-9-9-9-9-10 times. When all decreases to neck and armhole are finished there are 29-29-31-33-33-34 stitches on the shoulder. Continue working until the armhole measures 16-17-18-19-20-21 cm / 6¼''-6¾''-7''-7½''-8''-8¼'' (the piece measures a total of 56-60-63-64-68-68 cm / 22"-23½"-24 3/4"-25 1/4"-26 3/4"-26 3/4'' from the shoulder down), AT THE SAME TIME on the last row decrease 1 stitch by knitting 2 stitches together = 28-28-30-32-32-33 stitches. Bind off. Make sure that the bind-off edge is not tight.


SLEEVE:
Cast on 45-50-50-55-55-60 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. Work rib from the right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, (knit 3 /purl 2) until there are 4 stitches left, knit 3, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When the rib measures 4 cm / 1½'' change to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8. Knit 1 row where you decrease 7-11-8-13-10-14 stitches evenly on row = 38-39-42-42-45-46 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side, AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 9-9-11-11-7-4 cm / 3½"-3½"-4½"-4½"-2 3/4"-1½'' increase 1 stitch in each side – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this approx. every 6-5-4-3-3-3 cm / 2 1/4"-2"-1½"-1"-1"-1'' a total of 6-7-8-10-11-12 times = 50-53-58-62-67-70 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When the sleeve measures 43-43-43-42-41-40 cm / 17"-17"-17"-16½"-16"-15 3/4'' bind off for the sleeve cap at the beginning of each row in each side as follows: bind off 4 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 2-2-3-3-3-3 times, 1 stitch 3-4-2-3-5-6 times, 2 stitches 2-2-3-3-3-3 times and 4 stitches 1 time = 12-13-14-16-17-18 stitches. Bind off the remaining stitches. The sleeve measures approx. 51-52-52-52-53-53 cm / 20"-20½"-20½"-20½"-21"-21''. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams inside the bind-off edges. Sew sleeves to body. Sew the seam under the sleeve and continue down the side seam. Sew inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over
= purl 2 stitches together
= knit 1 in the front and back of the same stitch (= 1 stitch increased)




Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 186-31) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (13)

Latricoteuse24 13.09.2019 - 18:48:

Bonjour, Je ne comprends pas les légendes pour le diagramme. Pourriez-vous me les expliquer ?

DROPS Design 16.09.2019 kl. 13:07:

Bonjour Latricoteuse24, vous retrouverez la signification de chaque symbole sous la légende, les diagrammes montrent tous les rangs (= sur l'endroit et sur l'envers), quand vous croisez un des symboles, référez-vous à la légende, par ex 1 case blanche se tricote en jersey endroit (= à l'end sur l'end, à l'env sur l'env) et un tiret en jersey envers (= à l 'env sur l'end, à l'end sur l'env) et ainsi de suite. Plus d'infos ici dans la FAQ. Bon tricot!

Inc1961 26.05.2019 - 15:48:

The chart legend Has a triangle over two stitch is Purl two together. The chart though has the triangle slanting in the opposite direction? Is this still Purl two together, as the previous rows show Purl stictches, or because it’s a reversed symboled, is it knit two together? Thank you

DROPS Design 27.05.2019 kl. 11:19:

Dear Inc1961, this symbol should be read as P2 tog, diagram/symbol will be edited to match. Thanks for your feedback. Happy knitting!

Elin Therese 24.11.2018 - 20:17:

Jeg strikker minste størrelse, og lurer på de to maskene som strikkes vrang mellom hver rapport, altså 1 kantmaske, 8 m rett, 2 MASKER VRANG, A.3, 2 MASKER VRANG, A.4, 2 MASKER VRANG osv. Skal disse maskene strikkes vrang fra vrangsiden også? Eller strikkes de som en vrangbord, og altså rett fra vrangsiden?

DROPS Design 26.11.2018 kl. 11:30:

Hei Elin. De strikkes vrang fra retten og rett fra vrangen slik at de forblir vrang (sett fra rettsiden) hele veien opp. God fornøyelse

Fabiane Brettas 24.06.2018 - 00:36:

Olá. Fiz a receita seguindo as explicações para o tamanho M, porém as mangas não encaixam nas cavas. Existe alguma correção para esse tamanho?

DROPS Design 25.06.2018 kl. 16:34:

Olá, Não existe qualquer correção para este modelo. Verificou bem se a sua amostra era igual à indicada? Usou o fio DROPS? Pois se usou um outro fio, a tensão do trabalho pode ser muito diferente!

Simone 18.06.2018 - 09:46:

Sorry, another question, is the whole jersey knitted in two strands and can I substitute with one strand in double knit yarn instead. Thank you,

DROPS Design 18.06.2018 kl. 10:06:

Dear Simone, this pattern is worked entirely with 2 strands yarn group A (= Alpaca and Kid-Silk) and can be worked with a yarn group C - read more about alternatives here. Happy knitting!

Simone 17.06.2018 - 19:36:

Can I knit the front and back sections in the round?

DROPS Design 18.06.2018 kl. 09:02:

Dear Simone, you can work body in the round until armhole if you like to, but remember designer choice might have some reasons so that piece worked in the round may not look as pattern shown. Happy knitting!

Elin 14.06.2018 - 19:39:

Er denne veldig vid i størrelsen? I henhold til målene på tegningen er omkretsen 98 cm rundt brystet i str. S. Det virker veldig stort. Kan man justere pinnestr. og dermed strikkefastheten, og sånn få et litt smalere plagg, eller vil dette påvirke dimensjonene ellers?

DROPS Design 19.06.2018 kl. 08:00:

Hei Elin. Ja, denne modellen er litt løs. Ettersom strikkefastheten går på både lengde og bredde vil alle dimensjonenene i plagget bli påvirket at du endrer på dette. Det er selvføleglig ikke noe i veien for at du endrer på det så lenge du er klar over at det påvirker lengde, bredde og eventuelt garnmengde. God fornøyelse

Oksana 14.04.2018 - 10:01:

In the description for front piece is says: ... Now work pattern from the right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit the first 8-13-18-18-23-28 stitches at the same time as you decrease 0-1-4-3-3-4 stitches evenly over these stitches.... and then - Continue back and forth like this ... Question: in this row description you suggest to continue with there is decrease of the stiches. Should it be repeated every other row till the end of the work?

DROPS Design 16.04.2018 kl. 08:52:

Dear Oksana, after the row with dec you continue with 8-12-14-15-20-24 sts in stocking st after the edge st at the beg of row and before the edge st at the end of row, you will then dec when piece measures 5 cm (as for back piece). Happy knitting!

Eleni Stefanou 06.04.2018 - 12:45:

¡Hola! He intentado hacer este precioso jersey pero las medidas no son correctas. La V del cuello está demasiado arriba y la cabeza no entra de ninguna manera, para que sea aceptable la obertura tendría que ser a la tercera repetición del esquema A4 y no 4 ó 5 veces. Las mangas también son demasiado estrechas Creo que e su página es genial. Muchas gracias por las ideas. Eleni Stefanou

Jennifer King 17.01.2018 - 11:47:

I can't get the idea of making this one out of my head!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 186-31

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.