DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 £ /50g

Order

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.70£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Love Story

Knitted dress with lace pattern and ¾ sleeves. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted in DROPS Paris.

DROPS 188-3
DROPS design: Pattern w-688
Yarn group C or A + A
----------------------------------------------------------
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
850-950-1050-1150-1250-1400 g colour no 17, off white

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group C)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 5 mm – or size needed to get 17 stitches and 22 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - for eyelet row in waist and edge in garter stitch around the neck.

ACCESSORIES: 4 small wood beads for the twined strings.
----------------------------------------------------------

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

More like this:
Women Dresses & Tunics Boho Chic bottom up lace sewn in sleeves slit neckline v-neck waist shaping wave pattern

UK
Ireland

DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 £ /50g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.70£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.

INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.3).
Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

MEASURING TIP:
When working wave pattern, the piece will curl in bottom edge. All length measurements are done from where curl is shortest.

DECREASE TIP-1 (applies to skirt part on dress):
Decrease as follows after marker thread: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease as follows before marker thread: Begin 2 stitches before marker thread, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased).

DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to armholes):
Decrease inside 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. All decreases are done from the right side.
Decrease after 3 edge stitches as follows: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease before 3 edge stitches as follows: Begin 2 stitches before the 3 edge stitches and knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased).

DECREASE TIP-3:
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 180 stitches) and divide stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 8) = 22.5.
In this example work alternately every 21st and 22nd stitch and every 22nd and 23rd stitch together.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sides on dress and mid under sleeves):
All increases are done from the right side!
Increase on each side of marker threads in the sides on dress and on each side of marker thread mid under sleeve as follows: Work until 2 stitches remain before marker, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next row/round work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
----------------------------------------------------------

DRESS:
Work in the round on circular needle from bottom edge and up until vent begins mid front, then work piece back and forth from mid front. After decrease for armholes work front and back piece back and forth separately. The sleeves are worked in the round on a short circular needle bottom up, switch to double pointed needles when needed.

SKIRT:
Cast on somewhat loosely 247-266-285-323-342-380 stitches on circular needle size 5 mm with Paris. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH in the round - see explanation above. Then work A.1 (= 13-14-15-17-18-20 repetitions of 19 stitches). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
NOTE! On round marked with arrow-1 in A.1 displace beginning of round 2 stitches to the left to make the pattern fit. On round marked with arrow-2 in A.1 displace beginning of round 1 stitch to the left.
When A.1 has been worked, there are 156-168-180-204-216-240 stitches on needle.
Then work in stocking stitch. When piece measures 28 cm - read MEASURING TIP, insert 4 marker threads in piece as follows: Insert 1st marker thread after the first 18-21-24-30-32-38 stitches, insert 2nd marker thread after the next 42-42-42-42-44-44 stitches, insert 3rd marker thread after the next 36-42-48-60-64-76 stitches and insert 4th marker thread after the next 42-42-42-42-44-44 stitches. 18-21-24-30-32-38 stitches remain on round after last marker thread. Move marker threads upwards when working.
On next round, decrease after 1st and 3rd marker thread and before 2nd and 4th marker thread – read DECREASE TIP-1 (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 4½-4½-5½-5½-6-6 cm 7-7-6-6-6-6 times in total at every marker thread = 128-140-156-180-192-216 stitches. Remove all marker threads.
When piece measures 59-60-61-62-63-64 cm (decreases are now done), knit 1 round while decreasing 0-0-0-8-0-4 stitches evenly = 128-140-156-172-192-212 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and work A.2 in the round. When A.2 has been done, insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of round (= in the side), insert 1 marker after 32-35-39-43-48-53 stitches (= mid front) and 1 marker thread after 32-35-39-43-48-53 stitches (= in the side), there are 64-70-78-86-96-106 stitches between marker threads on back piece. Switch back to circular needle size 5 mm. Cut the yarn. Now work piece back and forth on circular needle from marker mid front.
Begin first row from right side at marker mid front and work as follows: A.3B (= 12-12-14-14-16-16 stitches), 40-46-50-58-64-74 stitches in stocking stitch (marker thread in the side is in the middle of these 40-46-50-58-64-74 stitches), work A.3A (= 12-12-14-14-16-16 stitches), A.3B (= 12-12-14-14-16-16 stitches), 40-46-50-58-64-74 stitches in stocking stitch (marker thread in the side is in the middle of these 40-46-50-58-64-74 stitches) and finish with A.3A (= 12-12-14-14-16-16 stitches). Continue pattern back and forth like this.
When piece measures 3 cm from division, increase 1 stitch on each side of marker threads in the sides - read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Repeat increase when piece measures 6-6-7-7-8-8 cm from division = 136-148-164-180-200-220 stitches.
When piece measures 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm, work 2 ridges over the middle 12-12-14-18-22-26 stitches in each side (i.e. work 6-6-7-9-11-13 stitches in garter stitch on each side of both marker threads – work the other stitches as before).
On first row from right side after ridges cast off 6-6-8-12-16-20 stitches in each side for armholes (cast off 3-3-4-6-8-10 stitches on each side of both marker threads). Finish front pieces and back piece separately.

LEFT FRONT PIECE (when garment is worn):
= 31-34-37-39-42-45 stitches. Continue back and forth with A.3A towards mid front, stocking stitch and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards armhole (work first row from wrong side).
When 3 rows have been worked back and forth, decrease for armhole on next row from right side - read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease like this on every other row (i.e. every row from right side) 2-3-5-6-8-11 times in total = 29-31-32-33-34-34 stitches.
Continue pattern back and forth as before with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards armhole, stocking stitch and A.3A towards mid front until piece measures approx. 84-87-90-93-96-99 cm (adjust so that next row is worked from wrong side and adjust to finish after one whole repetition vertically if possible).
Now slip the first 7-8-8-9-10-10 stitches on 1 stitch holder for neck but to avoid cutting the yarn work them before slipping them on the stitch holder.
Continue to cast off for neck at beginning of every row from mid front (i.e. at beginning of each row from wrong side) as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 2 times and 1 stitch 3 times = 15-16-17-17-17-17 stitches remain on shoulder. Work until 1 row remains before piece measures 90-93-96-99-102-105 cm, knit 1 row from wrong side and cast off by knitting from right side.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 31-34-37-39-42-45 stitches. Continue back and forth with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards armhole, stocking stitch and A.3B towards mid front (work first row from wrong side).
When 3 rows have been worked back and forth, decrease for armhole on next row from right side - read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease like this on every other row (i.e. every row from right side) 2-3-5-6-8-11 times in total = 29-31-32-33-34-34 stitches.
Continue pattern back and forth as before with A.3B towards mid front, stocking stitch and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards armhole until piece measures approx. 84-87-90-93-96-99 cm (adjust so that next row is worked from right side and finish on the same row in A.3 as on left front piece).
Now slip the first 7-8-8-9-10-10 stitches on 1 stitch holder for neck but to avoid cutting the yarn work them before slipping them on the stitch holder.
Continue to cast off for neck at beginning of every row from mid front (i.e. at beginning of each row from right side) as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 2 times and 1 stitch 3 times = 15-16-17-17-17-17 stitches remain on shoulder. Work until 1 row remains until piece measures 90-93-96-99-102-105 cm, knit 1 row from wrong side and cast off by knitting from right side.

BACK PIECE:
= 62-68-74-78-84-90 stitches. Continue back and forth with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side, stocking stitch and A.3A/A.3B mid back (work first row from wrong side).
When 3 rows have been worked back and forth, decrease for armhole in each side on next row from right side - read DECREASE TIP-2 (= 2 stitches decreased). Decrease like this on every other row (i.e. every row from right side) 2-3-5-6-8-11 times in total = 58-62-64-66-68-68 stitches.
Continue pattern back and forth as before with A.3A/A.3B mid back, stocking stitch and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side towards armholes until piece measures 88-91-94-97-100-103 cm.
Now cast off the middle 26-28-28-30-32-32 stitches for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue as before over shoulder stitches and cast off 1 stitch for neck on next row from the neck = 15-16-17-17-17-17 stitches remain on shoulder. Work until 1 row remains until piece measures 90-93-96-99-102-105 cm, knit 1 row from wrong side and cast off by knitting from right side. Work the other shoulder the same way.

SLEEVE:
Cast somewhat loosely on 76-76-76-95-95-95 stitches on short circular needle size 5 mm. Work 2 ridges in the round. Then work A.4 (= 4-4-4-5-5-5 repetitions of 19 stitches). NOTE! On round marked with arrow-3 in A.4 displace beginning of round 2 stitches to the left to make the pattern fit.
When A.4 has been worked, there are 48-48-48-60-60-60 stitches on needle. Work in stocking stitch until piece measures 20 cm - remember MEASURING TIP. Knit 1 round while decreasing 6-4-2-12-10-8 stitches evenly = 42-44-46-48-50-52 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm and A.2. After A.2 switch back to double pointed needles size 5 mm.
Insert 1 marker thread at beginning of round (= mid under sleeve). Work in stocking stitch in the round. When piece measures 25-25-25-26-26-26 cm, increase 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read INCREASE TIP. Increase 7-9-9-11-12-14 times in S: On every 4th round, in M and L: On every 3rd round, in XL: on every other round, in XXL: Alternately on every and every other round and size XXXL: On every round = 56-62-64-70-74-80 stitches.
When piece measures 38-38-37-37-35-34 cm, cast off the middle 6 stitches under sleeve (cast off 3 stitches on each side of marker thread).
Now work sleeve cap back and forth on circular needle, i.e. continue with stocking stitch and cast off at beginning of every row in each side as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 2 times and 1 stitch 3-3-3-5-6-8 times. Then cast off 2 stitches at beginning of every row in each side until piece measures 45-45-45-46-46-47 cm. Cast off 3 stitches at beginning of the next 2 rows and then cast off the remaining stitches. Sleeve measures approx. 46-46-46-47-47-48 cm. Work another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves - edge in garter stitch along armholes should be on the outside of sleeve (i.e. place the edge in garter stitch a bit over the edge along sleeve cap). Sew the opening at the mid front, start at the bottom and sew up until 10 cm remain before the neckline (or desired length) – sew in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch so that the seam is flat.

NECK EDGE:
Begin mid front and pick up from right side approx. 72 to 88 stitches around the neck (including stitches on stitch holders at the front) on circular needle size 4 mm. Knit 1 row from wrong side, knit 1 row from right side and knit 1 row from wrong side. Cast off knitting from right side.

TWINED STRING:
Cut 2 strands Paris of 3 metres each. Twine the strands tog until they resist, fold the string double so that it twines again. Make a knot at each end. Fasten a small wooden bead in each end of the tie. Make 2 tassels and fasten one tassel in each end of string, under wooden bead in each side. 1 tassel = cut 12 strands Paris of 11 cm each. Cut 1 strand of approx. 25 cm to fasten tassel with and place this strand in the middle of the 12 strands. Fold the thread double and tie a new thread around the tassel (approx. 1 cm from the top), fasten tightly and sew tassel to string as explained below. Make the other tassel the same way. Place string with tassels double and thread loop through a stitch at the top of vent at the front on dress, pull string ends through loop. Make a similar string with wooden beads and tassels and fasten it at the top of vent on the other side.

This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.

Updated online: 27.04.2018
Added info about sewing the opening at front piece.

Diagram

	= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
	= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next row/round work yarn over in stocking stitch to make hole
	= between 2 stitches make 2 yarn overs, on next round knit one yarn over, drop the other off the needle to make a bigger hole
	= knit 2 together
	= knit 3 together
	= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
	= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together
	= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 3 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Comments / Questions (59)

Sophie Roijackers wrote:

Ik begrijp niet helemaal hoe ik de mouwen in moet zetten. Je moet de ribbelrand erover heen laten komen staat in het patroon. Moet je de mouw dan aan de binnenkant vastzetten? Sophie Roijackers

08.06.2024 - 15:12

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Sophie,

Je schuift als het ware de mouw een beetje in het pand en zorgt dat de ribbelrand bovenop ligt. Dan naai je de naad vast.

09.06.2024 - 16:53

Norma Riesenbeck wrote:

Wat wordt er bedoeld met: pijl-1 in A.1 verplaatst u het begin van de naald 2 steken naar links zodat het patroon past?? Is het de bedoeling dat ik twee steken moet minderen? Ik hoor het graag van u.

19.05.2024 - 20:37

Dag Norma,

Nee je hoeft niet te minderen. Je verschuift het begin van de naald 2 steken, dus je zet de markeerdraad om het begin van de naald aan te geven 2 steken verderop en je begint vanaf dan ook de naald op die plek.

20.05.2024 - 18:48

Christine Bonifay wrote:

Bonjour, Je ne comprends pas comment glisser les 8 premières mailles sur un arrêt de mailles MAIS de les tricoter avant pour ne pas couper le fil ( modèle drops 188-3, devant droit et gauche). Je ne sais pas comment laisser des mailles en attente tout en les tricotant..Pourriez-vous m 'éclairer svp? Merci d avance. Belle journée à vous.

19.01.2024 - 09:55

Bonjour Mme Bonifay, tricotez les 8 premières mailles sur l'endroit pour le devant droit/sur l'envers pour le devant gauche et glissez-les en attente, tricotez le rang jusqu'à la fin comme avant, tournez et tricotez le rang suivant. Au début du rang suivant à partir de l'encolure (sur l'endroit/devant droit et sur l'envers/devant gauche) rabattez les mailles (après les mailles en attente) pour l'encolure. Lorsque vous tricoterez le col à la fin, vous reprendrez sur l'endroit les 8 m du devant droit, vous relèverez les mailles autour de l'encolure et tricoterez les 8 m en attente du devant gauche. Bon tricot!

19.01.2024 - 15:54

Martina wrote:

Ich habe zum Modell DROPS 188-3 eine Frage. Im Muster A.1 werden vor dem Stricken des V Musters zwei Maschen verschoben, nach links. Was passiert mit diesen nachdem dieser erste V Rapport gestrickt wurde. Also was passiert mit diesen 2 Maschen in der letzten Reihe des V Musters, bitte ? Vielen Dank im Vorraus.

09.01.2024 - 13:05

Thirza wrote:

Hallo! Ik ben bezig met de jurk patroon 188-3. Hiervoor moet ik bij A1.1 het patroon 2 steken naar links verplaatsen. Op jullie website vind ik alleen een filmpje hoe ik het patroon naar rechts moet verplaatsen. Kunnen jullie mij uitleggen hoe ik het patroon naar links verplaats? Moet ik dan gewoon 2 steken breien zoals ze zich voordoen en dan pas het patroon inzetten? Of moet ik iets anders doen? Met vriendelijke groet, Thirza

29.09.2023 - 13:19

Monjoie wrote:

Bonjour et merci pour ce joli modèle Dans A1 à la flèche 1 est ce qu il faut glisser 1 maille et tricoter 2 mailles ensembles ou 3 mailles ensembles ?

22.06.2023 - 11:46

Bonjour Mme Monjoie et merci. À la flèche-1, au début du tour, glissez les 2 premières m du tour sans les tricoter (elles seront tricotées au dernier motif du tour), puis tricotez les m suiv. comme indiqué par le diag.: *5 m end, 1 jeté, 1 m end, 5 m end, il reste 2 m du 1er A.1, glissez 1 m à l'endroit, tricotez les 3 m suiv. ensemble à l'endroit (= la dernière m du motif et les 2 premières m du motif suivant) et passez la m glissée par-dessus les 3 m tricotées ens*, répétez de *-* ainsi tout le tour. à la fin du tour, vous tricoterez les 2 dernières m du tour (celles que vous aviez glissées). Bon tricot!

22.06.2023 - 14:19

Anna wrote:

Hello. Can the A.3B and A.3A be worked in the round instead of back and forth, at least until the split? I am not sure what's the purpose of working back and forth before the split. Thank you, Anna

09.06.2023 - 09:53

Dear Anna, it might be possible - working each front piece separately allows you to decide the length of the seam on split. Happy knitting!

09.06.2023 - 13:25

Hello. Does "displace beginning of round 2 stitches to the left" mean to place first two stitches onto the right needle without working them? Should the marker indicating the beginning of the row be moved too?

23.05.2023 - 23:02

Hi Anna, This means that you start the next round 2 stitches early, at the end of the previous round. And yes, you can move the marker to the new start of the round. Happy knitting!

24.05.2023 - 06:53

Marcia Brown wrote:

Can you clarify if the 1st stitch on round 6, (purl round ) is slipped before completing the round? There are indentations on rounds 24, and 44 in A1 chart and also in A4 chart. Is it possible for me to translate comments from other knitters to English ? These comments may answer my question. Thank you.

09.05.2023 - 11:20

Dear Mrs Brown, On round marked with arrow-1 in A.1 displace beginning of round 2 stitches to the left to make the pattern fit. On round marked with arrow-2 in A.1 displace beginning of round 1 stitch to the left. To displace the beginning of the round, slip the first 2 sts (arrow-1)/ the first st (arrow-2) of the round as if to K, move the marker for beg of round here and continue working diagram. Happy knitting!

09.05.2023 - 16:18

Mariam wrote:

Hallo, Ab dem Teil im Rock im Diagramm A1 mit dem 1. Pfeil geht mein V Muster nicht auf. Können sie nochmal das mit dem nach links verschieben erklären, soll der Rundenbeginn nur für die Runde mit dem Pfeil verschoben werden oder gilt das auch für die darauffolgenden Runden?

25.04.2023 - 01:29

Liebe Mariam, am Anfang der Reihe mit dem Pfeil stricken Sie die 2 ersten Maschen von A.1 und den Markierer legen Sie hier (nach dieser 2 Maschen die früher am Anfang der Runde waren = die sind jetzt die 2 Maschen der Runden); dann stricken Sie A.1 wie im Diagram gezeigt (die 2 letzten Maschen von jedem Rapport sind zusammen mit den 2 ersten Maschen vom nächsten Rapport gestrickt). Beim Pfeil-2 stricken Sie dann die 1. Masche der Runde und legen Sie den Markierer hier = diese Masche ist jetzt die letzte Masche der Runde (und nicht mehr die erste Masche). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

25.04.2023 - 08:24