DROPS / 188 / 31

Love Letter by DROPS Design

Knitted dress with lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted in DROPS Paris.

  • Love Letter / DROPS 188-31 - Knitted dress with lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted in DROPS Paris.
  • Love Letter / DROPS 188-31 - Knitted dress with lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted in DROPS Paris.
DROPS design: Pattern w-678
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
650-700-800-850-950-1050 g colour no 17, off white

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group C)” - see link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 5 mm – or size needed to get 17 stitches and 22 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - for eyelet row in waist and edge in garter stitch around the neck.

ASSESSORIES: 4 small wooden beads for the ties.
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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 0.95 £ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 1.05 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 0.95 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.35£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.3).
Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

MEASURING TIP:
When working wave pattern, the piece will curl in bottom edge. All length measurements are done from where curl is shortest.

DECREASE TIP-1 (applies to skirt part on dress):
Decrease as follows after marker thread: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease as follows before marker thread: Begin 2 stitches before marker thread, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased).

DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to armholes):
All decreases are done from the right side. Decrease inside 3 edge stitches in garter stitch.
Decrease after 3 edge stitches as follows: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease before 3 edge stitches as follows: Begin 2 stitches before the 3 edge stitches and knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased).

DECREASE TIP-3:
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 180 stitches) and divide stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 8) = 22.5.
In this example work alternately every 21st and 22nd stitch and every 22nd and 23rd stitch together.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sides of dress):
All increases are done from the right side!
Increase on each side of marker thread in the sides on dress as follows: Work until 2 stitches remain before marker, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next row/round work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
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DRESS:
Work in the round on circular needle from bottom edge and up until vent begins mid front, then work piece back and forth from mid front. After decrease for armholes work front and back piece back and forth separately.

SKIRT:
Cast on somewhat loosely 247-266-285-323-342-380 stitches on circular needle size 5 mm with Paris. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH in the round - see explanation above. Then work A.1 (= 13-14-15-17-18-20 repetitions of 19 stitches). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
NOTE! On round marked with arrow-1 in A.1 displace beginning of round 2 stitches to the left to make the pattern fit. On round marked with arrow-2 in A.1 displace beginning of round 1 stitch to the left.
When A.1 has been worked, there are 156-168-180-204-216-240 stitches on needle.
Then work in stocking stitch. When piece measures 28 cm - read MEASURING TIP, insert 4 marker threads in piece as follows: Insert 1st marker thread after the first 18-21-24-30-32-38 stitches, insert 2nd marker thread after the next 42-42-42-42-44-44 stitches, insert 3rd marker thread after the next 36-42-48-60-64-76 stitches and insert 4th marker thread after the next 42-42-42-42-44-44 stitches. 18-21-24-30-32-38 stitches remain on round after last marker thread. Move marker threads upwards when working. 
On next round, decrease after 1st and 3rd marker thread and before 2nd and 4th marker thread – read DECREASE TIP-1 (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 4½-4½-5½-5½-6-6 cm 7-7-6-6-6-6 times in total at every marker thread = 128-140-156-180-192-216 stitches. Remove all marker threads.
When piece measures 59-60-61-62-63-64 cm (decreases are now done), knit 1 round while decreasing 0-0-0-8-0-4 stitches evenly = 128-140-156-172-192-212 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and work A.2 in the round. When A.2 has been done, insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of round (= in the side), insert 1 marker after 32-35-39-43-48-53 stitches (= mid front) and 1 marker thread after 32-35-39-43-48-53 stitches (= in the side), there are 64-70-78-86-96-106 stitches between marker threads on back piece. Switch back to circular needle size 5 mm. Cut the yarn. Now work piece back and forth on circular needle from marker mid front.
Begin first row from right side at marker mid front and work as follows: A.3B (= 12-12-14-14-16-16 stitches), 40-46-50-58-64-74 stitches in stocking stitch (marker thread in the side is in the middle of these 40-46-50-58-64-74 stitches), work A.3A (= 12-12-14-14-16-16 stitches), A.3B (= 12-12-14-14-16-16 stitches), 40-46-50-58-64-74 stitches in stocking stitch (marker thread in the side is in the middle of these 40-46-50-58-64-74 stitches) and finish with A.3A (= 12-12-14-14-16-16 stitches). Continue pattern back and forth like this.
When piece measures 3 cm from division, increase 1 stitch on each side of marker threads in the sides - read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Repeat increase when piece measures 8-8-9-9-10-10 cm from division = 136-148-164-180-200-220 stitches.
When piece measures 73-75-77-79-81-83 cm, work 2 ridges over the middle 12-12-14-18-22-26 stitches in each side (i.e. work 6-6-7-9-11-13 stitches in garter stitch on each side of both marker threads – work the other stitches as before).
On first row from right side after ridges cast off 6-6-8-12-16-20 stitches in each side for armholes (cast off 3-3-4-6-8-10 stitches on each side of both marker threads). Finish front pieces and back piece separately.

LEFT FRONT PIECE (when garment is worn):
= 31-34-37-39-42-45 stitches. Continue back and forth with A.3A towards mid front, stocking stitch and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards armhole (work first row from wrong side).
When 3 rows have been worked back and forth, decrease for armhole on next row from right side - read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease like this on every other row (i.e. every row from right side) 2-3-5-6-8-11 times in total = 29-31-32-33-34-34 stitches.
Continue pattern back and forth as before with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards armhole, stocking stitch and A.3A towards mid front until piece measures approx. 84-87-90-93-96-99 cm (adjust so that next row is worked from wrong side and adjust to finish after one whole repetition vertically if possible).
Now slip the first 7-8-8-9-10-10 stitches on 1 stitch holder for neck but to avoid cutting the yarn work them before slipping them on the stitch holder.
Continue to cast off for neck at beginning of every row from mid front (i.e. at beginning of each row from wrong side) as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 2 times and 1 stitch 3 times = 15-16-17-17-17-17 stitches remain on shoulder. Work until 1 row remains before piece measures 90-93-96-99-102-105 cm, knit 1 row from wrong side and cast off by knitting from right side.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 31-34-37-39-42-45 stitches. Continue back and forth with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards armhole, stocking stitch and A.3B towards mid front (work first row from wrong side).
When 3 rows have been worked back and forth, decrease for armhole on next row from right side - read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease like this on every other row (i.e. every row from right side) 2-3-5-6-8-11 times in total = 29-31-32-33-34-34 stitches.
Continue pattern back and forth as before with A.3B towards mid front, stocking stitch and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards armhole until piece measures approx. 84-87-90-93-96-99 cm (adjust so that next row is worked from right side and finish on the same row in A.3 as on left front piece).
Now slip the first 7-8-8-9-10-10 stitches on 1 stitch holder for neck but to avoid cutting the yarn work them before slipping them on the stitch holder.
Continue to cast off for neck at beginning of every row from mid front (i.e. at beginning of each row from right side) as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 2 times and 1 stitch 3 times = 15-16-17-17-17-17 stitches remain on shoulder. Work until 1 row remains until piece measures 90-93-96-99-102-105 cm, knit 1 row from wrong side and cast off by knitting from right side.

BACK PIECE:
= 62-68-74-78-84-90 stitches. Continue back and forth with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side, stocking stitch and A.3A/A.3B mid back (work first row from wrong side).
When 3 rows have been worked back and forth, decrease for armhole in each side on next row from right side - read DECREASE TIP-2 (= 2 stitches decreased). Decrease like this on every other row (i.e. every row from right side) 2-3-5-6-8-11 times in total = 58-62-64-66-68-68 stitches.
Continue pattern back and forth as before with A.3A/A.3B mid back, stocking stitch and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side towards armholes until piece measures 88-91-94-97-100-103 cm.
Now cast off the middle 26-28-28-30-32-32 stitches for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue as before over shoulder stitches and cast off 1 stitch for neck on next row from the neck = 15-16-17-17-17-17 stitches remain on shoulder. Work until 1 row remains until piece measures 90-93-96-99-102-105 cm, knit 1 row from wrong side and cast off by knitting from right side. Work the other shoulder the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew the opening at the mid front, start at the bottom and sew up until 10 cm remain before the neckline (or desired length) – sew in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch so that the seam is flat.

NECK EDGE:
Begin mid front and pick up from right side approx. 72 to 88 stitches around the neck (including stitches on stitch holders at the front) on circular needle size 4 mm. Knit 1 row from wrong side, knit 1 row from right side and knit 1 row from wrong side. Cast off knitting from right side.

TWINED STRING:
Cut 2 strands Paris of 3 metres each. Twine the strands tog until they resist, fold the string double so that it twines again. Make a knot at each end. Fasten a small wooden bead in each end of the tie. Make 2 tassels and fasten one tassel in each end of string, under wooden bead in each side. 1 tassel = cut 12 strands Paris of 11 cm each. Cut 1 strand of approx. 25 cm to fasten tassel with and place this strand in the middle of the 12 strands. Fold the thread double and tie a new thread around the tassel (approx. 1 cm from the top), fasten tightly and sew tassel to string as explained below. Make the other tassel the same way. Place string with tassels double and thread loop through a stitch at the top of vent at the front on dress, pull string ends through loop. Make a similar string with wooden beads and tassels and fasten it at the top of vent on the other side.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 27.04.2018
Added info about sewing the opening at front piece.

Diagram

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next row/round work yarn over in stocking stitch to make hole
symbols = between 2 stitches make 2 yarn overs, on next round knit one yarn over, drop the other off the needle to make a bigger hole
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = knit 3 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 3 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together
diagram
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Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 188-31) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (14)

country flag Hanna 18.07.2020 - 14:00:

Miia, ihmettelin itse samaa, katso englanninkielinen ohje, siinä on kerrottu että aukko ommellaan lopuksi kiinni.

country flag Mia 04.06.2020 - 00:15:

Miksi mekko neulotaan tasona A.2 kuvion jälkeen? Kuvassa näyttää siltä että halkion alku on ommeltu kiinni jonkin matkaa. Senhän olisi voinut pyörönä jatkaa vielä ylemmäs? Lisäksi halkion ompelusta ei ole mainintaa, mutta eihän se voi auki jäädä noin alas?

country flag Lídia Ribeiro 24.04.2020 - 09:33:

Since there is no picture of the back of the dress I'd like to clarify if we need to knit A3B and A3A on the back. From what I'm reading in the instructions I understand that we do. I just need to check if I'm reading it right. Thank you.

user icon DROPS Design 24.04.2020 kl. 09:45:

Dear Mrs Ribeiro, yes you will work A.3A and A.3B in the back of piece, as explained in the written pattern. Happy knitting!

country flag Sofia 27.03.2020 - 09:53:

Där det står pil 1 i mönster A1 förkjuter jag mönstret två maskor. Ska man göra det varje varv efter det. Får det inte att bli ett "hål V" annars.

user icon DROPS Design 31.03.2020 kl. 11:14:

Hej Sofia, du skal ikke forskyde maskerne yderligere, men når du har forskudt en gang, starter du nu diagrammet hver for hver gang. Sørg for at du får 2 masker mere imellem hvert omslag og strik de 3 masker sammen over hinanden hver gang. God fornøjelse!

country flag Susanne Christiansen 07.05.2019 - 11:08:

Har problemer med maskeantal, der skal være 168 masker tilbage når jeg er færdig med a1, men kan ikke få det til at passe.

user icon DROPS Design 07.05.2019 kl. 11:28:

Hej Susanne, Du tager 7 masker ind i hver diagram-rapport. Den 5. indtagning kan være svær at se. Det er den som er ud for pil 1. Her tager du 3 masker ind (over de sidste 4 masker) men tager kun 2 masker ud i midten. God fornøjelse!

Thoai Vu 15.08.2018 - 11:55:

Thank you for your support. I'm done

Thoai Vu 10.08.2018 - 08:18:

Sorry You don't understood what I mean. The round 27 is right. But round 29 and so on, it don't fit as pattern. At the beg of round 28: 5 sts, 1 st of YO, 1st, 1st of YO and 5sts. If the round 29 I work K4, YO, K3, YO, K4 and sl K, K2tog, psso, the position of K3 won't be able middle. Sorry for bothering you

user icon DROPS Design 10.08.2018 kl. 08:52:

Dear Mrs Vu, you should have displaced the beg of the row from row 27, so that you knit one st less at the beg of the repeat = K4 , then work K3 (= YO from row 27, K1, YO from row 27), K4 and finish with the 3 sts worked tog (slip 1, K2 tog,psso). The K3 are not in the middle of repeat but there should be K4 on the outside of YO's. Happy knitting!

Thoai Vu 09.08.2018 - 17:05:

I did the 27 round as you guide, but when I did the round 29 it wasn't fit with the round 27. If I slip the 1 st at the beg of row, it will be perfect. Please help me again. Thank you

user icon DROPS Design 10.08.2018 kl. 07:53:

Dear Mrs Vu, make sure you have 15 sts in each repeat when working row 27, at the end of each repeat you will work the last 2 sts tog with the first 2 sts next repeat (= you dec 3 sts and make 2 YOs = 1 st has been decreased in each repeat) = 14 sts remain in each repeat. Happy knitting!

Thoai Vu 09.08.2018 - 14:31:

I think there is an error from round 29 and so on of A.1 pattern. I have to displace beginning of round 1 stitch to the left to make it fit with 27th round. Can you double check?

user icon DROPS Design 09.08.2018 kl. 15:48:

Dear Mrs Vu, pattern is right, at the arrow, you displace the beg of round of 2 sts to the left: slip the 2 sts at the beg of row with an arrow to the right needles without working them, then work row with arrow-1 as shown in diagram, you will finish the round with the 2 sts you slipped. Happy knitting!

country flag Broňa 30.12.2017 - 21:24:

Také moc pěkná kombinace vzorů.

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