Winter Nap by DROPS Design

Knitted children’s jumper with cable and raglan. Sizes 2 - 12 years. The piece is worked in DROPS Air.

DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-012-bn
Yarn group C or A + A
-----------------------------------------------------------
Sizes: 2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Sizes in cm: 92 - 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152
Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
150-150-200-200-250-250 g colour 16, blue

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn Group C)" – see the link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 5.5 MM – or the size needed to get 16 stitches and 20 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4.5 MM for rib - or the size needed to get 18 stitches and 23 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cable.
----------------------------------------------------------

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.60 £ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 4.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 4.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

DECREASE TIP:
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the number of stitches to be decreased over (e.g. 25 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 5) = 5. In this example, knit every 4th and 5th stitch together.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size.

RAGLAN:
Decrease to raglan in each transition between body and sleeves. All decreases are worked from the right side!
Decrease as follows before the marker: Start 2 stitches before the marker and knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease as follows after the marker: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).

INCREASE TIP (for mid under sleeve):
Start 1 stitch after the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, work until there is 1 stitch left on the round, make 1 yarn over and knit 1 (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes.
----------------------------------------------------------

JUMPER:
The body is worked in the round with circular needle as far as the armholes. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles, then the body and sleeves are put together and worked to finished length.

BODY:
Cast on 136-144-152-160-168-176 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 1 / purl 1) for 4 cm. Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round (= in the side). The next round is worked as follows: Knit the first 25-27-29-29-31-33 stitches and at the same time decrease 5 stitches evenly over these stitches - read DECREASE TIP, work A.1 (choose diagram for your size = 19-19-19-23-23-23 stitches which are increased to 20-20-20-24-24-24 stitches on the first round), knit 25-27-29-29-31-33 stitches and at the same time decrease 5 stitches evenly over these stitches, insert 1 marker thread (= in the side), knit the next 67-71-75-79-83-87 stitches and at the same time decrease 11-11-11-13-13-13 stitches evenly over these stitches. There are now 60-64-68-72-76-80 stitches between the marker threads on the front piece and 56-60-64-66-70-74 stitches on the back piece = a total of 116-124-132-138-146-154 stitches on the needle. The next round is worked as follows: 20-22-24-24-26-28 stitches stocking stitch, continue A.1 (= 20-20-20-24-24-24 stitches) and work stocking stitch to end of round. Continue the pattern in this way. When A.1 has been completed, work A.2 over these 20-20-20-24-24-24 stitches. Repeat A.2 upwards. When the piece measures 20-23-26-29-32-35 cm cast off 4-4-4-6-6-6 stitches in each side for the armholes (cast off 2-2-2-3-3-3 stitches on each side of both marker threads). There are now 56-60-64-66-70-74 stitches on the front piece and 52-56-60-60-64-68 stitches on the back piece. Lay the piece to one side and work the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 30-32-32-34-34-36 stitches with double pointed needles size 4.5 mm. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 1 / purl 1) for 4 cm. Change to double pointed needles size 5.5 mm. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round (= mid under the sleeve). Knit 1 round where you decrease 4 stitches evenly on round in all sizes – read DECREASE TIP = 26-28-28-30-30-32 stitches. Continue working stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 6 cm increase 2 stitches mid under the sleeve – read INCREASE TIP. Increase in this way every 2½-3½-3½-4-5-5½ cm a total of 6-6-7-7-7-7 times = 38-40-42-44-44-46 stitches. When the piece measures 22-26-30-34-38-42 cm cast off 4-4-4-6-6-6 stitches mid under sleeve (cast off 2-2-2-3-3-3 stitches on each side of the marker thread) = 34-36-38-38-38-40 stitches. Lay the piece to one side and work another sleeve in the same way.

YOKE:
Place the sleeves on the same circular needle as the body, where you have cast off stitches for the armhole = 176-188-200-202-210-222 stitches. Insert 1 marker in each transition between body and sleeve (= 4 markers). Continue as before with stocking stitch and A.2 mid front. AT THE SAME TIME on the first round, decrease to RAGLAN – see description above. Decrease to raglan every 2nd round a total of 13-14-15-16-17-18 times.
AT THE SAME TIME when there are 2 decreases to raglan left (if your knitting tension is right in height, the piece now measures approx. 31-35-39-43-47-51 cm mid front), knit together the 10-10-10-12-12-12 stitches over the cable mid front, 2 and 2 (= 5-5-5-6-6-6 stitches decreased). On the next round place the middle 21-23-25-24-26-28 stitches on 1 thread for the neck. Continue working the piece back and forth on the needle from the neck and cast off 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 2 rows for the neck. After all the decreases to raglan and neck, there are 44-46-48-42-40-42 stitches left on the needle.

NECKLINE:
Knit up from the right side approx. 67-71-75-68-68-72 stitches around the neck (including the stitches on the thread in front) with short circular needle size 4.5 mm. Knit 1 round where you decrease evenly to 58-60-62-64-66-68 stitches. Continue by working rib in the round (= knit 1 / purl 1) for 3 cm. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
The jumper measures approx. 36-40-44-48-52-56 cm from the shoulder down.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves.



----------------------------------------------------------
Trousers:
See DROPS Children 30-22 or “Related patterns” in patterns on-line.
----------------------------------------------------------

Diagram

= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next round knit yarn over twisted to prevent holes.
= place 5 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 5, knit 5 from cable needle
= place 6 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 6, knit 6 from cable needle



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 30-7) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (10)

Belén 10.09.2020 - 20:47:

Hola! No termino de comprender la explicación de disminución para el raglán. Tengo que disminuir una vez antes y después del marcador? O sea, tengo que sacar 8 puntos por vuelta? Gracias

Marie-José Costa 15.07.2020 - 20:34:

152 m montées ( pour 7/8 ans) cela me semble très large pour l'encolure....?je pourrais au moins diminuer de 30 mailles.... Où me suis je trompée ?

DROPS Design 16.07.2020 kl. 09:40:

Bonjour Mme Costa, si votre échantillon est juste (18 m x 23 rangs avec les aiguilles 4,5 et 16 m x 20 rangs avec les aiguilles 5,5 = 10 x 10 cm), alors conservez la même tension pour obtenir les dimensions indiquées pour chaque taille dans le schéma. Bon tricot!

Gro 19.04.2020 - 23:37:

Hei, jeg kan ikke skjønne at størrelsen på denne genseren er riktig. La opp til bolen i str 2 år, men 136 masker rundt blir passelig til en voksen? Har søkt opp andre barnegensere i Air, og ser bolen varierer fra 110 til 120 masker.

DROPS Design 20.04.2020 kl. 09:22:

Hei Gro. Du legger opp 136 masker og strikket vrangbord. Når vrangborden er ferdig og du begynner med bolen + mønster, felles det masker slik at du ender opp på 116 masker. Den store fletten midt på vil dra plagget sammen, for å unngå at det ikke ser pent ut, har vrangborden det maskeantallet som er oppgitt. God Fornøyelse!

Mette Nadden 02.03.2020 - 09:02:

Hei_ På utkikk etter en genser i barnestr. strikket i drops air. Har masse restegarn å få brukt opp. Skal være en helt enkel genser med raglandsfelling. så denne, men usikker om maskeantall siden jeg ikke skal ha flette. kun rette masker.

DROPS Design 02.03.2020 kl. 14:02:

Hei Mette. Du kan fint bruke den oppskriften, men ha like mange masker på forstykket som bakstykket ettersom du ikke skal ha fletten og husk å sjekke at maskeantallet blir det sammen når du skal feller til ermene. Eller du kan evnt ta en titt på DROPS Childeren 22-2/22-3, Drops Extra 0-940 eller DROPS Children 34-22. God Fornøyelse!

Ruth Schwabe 08.02.2020 - 15:35:

Hallo, ab wo zählen die 6 cm bis zur ersten Zunahme am Ärmel ? Zählt das Bündchen mit? Danke und Gruß!

DROPS Design 10.02.2020 kl. 08:26:

Liebe Frau Schwabe, ja genau, messen Sie von der Anschlagskante (= Gesamthöhe von der Ärmel). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Lelletta 18.11.2019 - 17:48:

Buonasera! Devo lavorare le maniche ma leggendo mi sono resa conto che le maglie avviate sono 36 e alla fine, quando il lavoro misura 42 cm, le maglie sono solo 40... solo 4 in più, come è possibile? Grazie mille se potrete chiarirmi questo mio dubbio.

DROPS Design 18.11.2019 kl. 21:50:

Buongiorno Lelletta. Per la manica avvia 36 m, poi ne deve diminuire 4 dopo le coste; poi aumenta fino ad arrivare a 46 m. Dopo aver chiuso le maglie per gli scalfi, rimane con 40 m. Buon lavoro!

Agostini Etie 20.01.2019 - 08:05:

Pourquoi ne donnez vous jamais la largeur en cm des manches surtout avant l echancrure

DROPS Design 21.01.2019 kl. 10:51:

Bonjour Mme Agostini, cette mesure peut se calculer facilement avec le nombre de mailles: 38 m quand toutes les augmentations sont faites sur la base de 16 m = 10 cm, on va avoir (38x10)/16 = 23.75 cm. Bon tricot!

Madeleine Beaumier 18.12.2018 - 02:52:

Il aurait été bien plus simple de tricoter ce modèle de haut en bas plutôt que de bas en haut!

DROPS Design 18.12.2018 kl. 09:06:

Bonjour Mme Beaumier, certaines tricoteuses préfèrent la méthode de bas en haut, nous essayons ainsi d'avoir les deux types de techniques dans nos catalogues. Bon tricot!

Hildegunn 16.10.2018 - 06:14:

Hei! Finnes tilsvarende til voksen? Eller annen enkel med flette hvor jeg kan bruke kidSilk og flora sammen?

DROPS Design 22.10.2018 kl. 08:53:

Hei Hildegunn. Den som ligner mest, og er i samme garngruppe er nok 84-17. Ellers er både 188-36 Og 184-12 gensere med lignende flettemønster i samme garngruppe, om enn noe mer kompliserte. Hvis det er et alterantiv og strikke med tykkere garn kan du også se på 181-13, 183-18 eller 71-7, som alle har et lignende flettemønster. God fornøyelse.

Maria 29.08.2018 - 15:32:

è possibile lavorare questo modello con ferri dritti? quante maglie devo montare per un bimbo di 2-3 anni?

DROPS Design 29.08.2018 kl. 20:12:

Buonasera Maria, questo modello è lavorato in tondo fino agli scalfi ma può lavorarlo con i ferri dritti aggiungendo una maglia di vivagno a ogni lato per la cucitura. Presti attenzione alla lavorazione del motivo. Per la taglia, di fianco alla foto sono indicate le altezze in cm corrispondenti alle varie taglie. Buon lavoro!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Children 30-7

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

From the #dropsfan gallery

Winter Nap

Martina, Afghanistan

Kinderpulli

Evelina, Sweden