Winter Fable by DROPS Design

Knitted pants with rib for kids. Size 2 - 12 years Piece is knitted in 2 strands DROPS Fabel.

Keywords: rib, top down, trousers
DROPS Children 30-21
DROPS design: Pattern fa-018-bn
Yarn group A + A or C
Size: 2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Size in cm: 92 - 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-150-150-150-150-200 g colour no 911, picnic
100-150-150-150-150-200 g colour no 901, candy

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group A)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 4.5 mm – or size needed to get 18 stitches and 23 rows in stocking stitch with 2 strands = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

ACCESSORIES: Elastic (approx 6-10 mm I width): approx. 60-80 cm


Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 2.40 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 2.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.

Increase on each side of knit 2 by making 1 yarn over. On next round work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Work the increased stitches in rib, i.e. knit the first 2 stitches increased, and purl the next 2 stitches etc.

Decrease like this before marker: Knit 2 stitches twisted together/ Purl 2 stitches twisted together.
Decrease like this after marker: Knit 2 stitches together/ Purl 2 stitches together.

Leg length can be adjusted to desired measurements. By working the legs longer they can be folded up and grow along with the child.

Worked in the round, top down. Round starts mid back.
Cast on 104-112-120-120-128-136 stitches on circular needle size 4.5 mm with 1 strand of each colour (= 2 strands). Insert 1 marker at beginning of round (= mid back) and 1 marker after 52-56-60-60-64-68 stitches (= mid front). Work rib from mid back as follows: Knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 stitches remain on round and finish with purl 2 and knit 1. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures approx. 2 cm, work a round with eyelet holes as follows: Knit 1, * purl 2 together, 1 yarn over, knit 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 stitches remain on round, finish with purl 2 together, 1 yarn over and knit 1. Continue with rib as before. When piece measures 5 cm, work an elevation at the back as follows: Work 7 stitches rib, turn, tighten yarn and work 14 stitches rib back. Turn, tighten yarn and work 24 stitches rib. Turn, tighten yarn and work 34 stitches rib. Continue like this by working 10 stitches more on every turn until a total of 74-74-94-94-114-114 stitches have been worked. Turn piece again. Continue in the round over all stitches again (knit 2/purl 2) until piece measures 15-16-17-18-19-20 cm mid front. On next round, increase 1 stitch on each side of the middle 2 stitches at the front and back – read INCREASE TIP! Increase like this every other round 8 times in total = 136-144-152-152-160-168 stitches. When piece measures 22-23-24-25-26-27 cm from mid front, cast off 12 stitches mid front and mid back (cast off 6 stitches on each side of both markers). Finish each leg piece separately. Slip the stitches for one leg on 1 stitch holder. 

= 56-60-64-64-68-72 stitches. Distribute the stitches on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm. Insert 1 marker on the inside of leg - round begins here. Then continue rib with knit over knit and purl over purl. When leg measures 2 cm, decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker - read DECREASE TIP (= 2 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 2-2-2-2-3-3 cm 6 times in total = 44-48-52-52-56-60 stitches. When leg measures approx. 31-38-44-50-58-66 cm - read KNITTING TIP, loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Slip stitches from the other leg back on double pointed needles and work as first leg. 

Sew the 12 stitches that were cast off between the legs tog towards each other. 
Thread an elastic through the round with eyelet holes.


diagram measurements

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 30-21) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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5) How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

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6) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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7) What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

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8) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

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9) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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10) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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11) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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13) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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14) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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15) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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16) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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17) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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18) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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19) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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20) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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21) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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22) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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23) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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24) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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25) Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (20)

country flag Jola Gajewski wrote:

Liebws Dropsteam Ist das richtig, dass die dünne wolle(205m/ 50 g) mit 4, 5 Nadel gestrickt werden soll?? Oder hat sich da ein Fehlerteufel eingeschlichen? Ich hätte jetzt zu 2,5-3 tendiert. Liebe Grüße

22.10.2022 - 08:37

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Gajewski, hier wird DROPS Fabel doppelfädig gestrickt, so braucht man Nadel nr 4,5 für die Maschenprobe (18 Maschen x 23 Reihen glatt rechts = 10 x 10 cm). Mehr über Maschenprobe lesen Sie hier. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

24.10.2022 - 07:51

country flag Petra wrote:

Hallo, ich verstehe die Anleitung für die Maschenzunahme nicht. Je 1 Masche nach den mittleren 2 rechten Maschen per Umschlag zunehmen, aber wie strickt man die Masche in der nächsten Runde ab? Ich versteh das Prinzip nicht. Wie muss ich weiterstricken damit das rippenmuster stimmt?

21.10.2022 - 11:00

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Petra, das Rippenmuster wird nicht nach jeder Zunahmen stimmen, erst wenn Sie 4 Maschen zugenommen haben bzw nach allen Zunahmen gestrickt sind. Bei der 1. Zunahme stricken Sie die 2 Umschläge rechtes (= so haben Sie 4 Maschen rechts), die 2. Zunahme stricken Sie auch so = 6 Maschen rechts, dann stricken Sie die Zunahmen links: 2 M re, 1 M li, 2 M re(mittlere M), 1 M li, 2 M re, die nächste Zunahme stricken Sie links so stimmt das Rippenmuster wieder. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

21.10.2022 - 16:03

country flag Petra wrote:

Hallo, von wo ab wird die 15cm Länge nach der Rückenerhöhung gemessen? Vom oberen Rand ?

19.10.2022 - 20:00

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Petra, diese 15 cm messen Sie ab der Anschlagskante, aber an der vorderen Mitte (an der hinteren wird die Arbeit wegen Erhöhung länger sein). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

20.10.2022 - 09:49

country flag Monika Burhøj wrote:

Jeg er lidt i tvivel , med hvad I mener når I skriver: Fortsæt med rib som før. Når arbejdet måler 5 cm strikkes der forhøjning bagpå således: Strik 7 masker rib. Så er mit spørgsmål. Hvad mener I med Strik 7 masker rib? Er det 7 x 2 vrang, 2 ret eller er det 7 x 1 vrang, 1 ret , eller 7 x 2 vrang, 2 ret? Hilsen Monika

24.10.2021 - 14:29

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Monika. Når du skal strikke forhøyning strikker du frem og tilbake over det antallet som det står i oppskriften, se gjerne videoen på hvordan strikke en forhøyning. Du strikker vrangbord/rib som før, slik at du strikker rettmaske over rettmaske og vrangmanske over vrangmaske, uansett om det er fra retten eller fra vrangen. mvh DROPS Design

25.10.2021 - 11:09

country flag Roswitha Richter wrote:

Hallo, Bin gerade dabei die Winter Faible Strickhose für Kinder zu stricken, in der Anleitung steht nach 5 cm Erhöhung stricken, heißt das ab Bund oder ab Lochreihe? Vielen Dank Richter Roswitha

19.09.2021 - 17:34

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Richter, diese 5 cm werden vom Anfang gemessen, dh das ist die gesamte Höhe = von der Anschlagskante. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

20.09.2021 - 11:06

country flag Lieve Scheirlynck wrote:

Hoi, ik begrijp het eigenlijk nog altijd niet goed... Ik brei het patroon voor kinderen van 9 tot 10 jaar. Ik heb nu 114 steken en moet meerderen naar 160. Als ik die 2 middelste steken samen hou en daar links en rechts 1 bij zet heb ik per naald inderdaad 4 meerderingen x 8 is 32, maar 114 + 32 is nog altijd geen 160? Heb ik eerder iets fout gedaan misschien? Groetjes, Lieve

07.02.2020 - 10:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Lieve,

Nadat je die 114 steken hebt gebreid, brei je weer verder over alle steken, dus over alle 128 steken. Op het moment dat je meerdert heb je dus 128 steken op de naald en niet 114.

09.02.2020 - 11:14

country flag Scheirlynck Lieve wrote:

Beste, wanneer kunnen jullie mijn eerder gestelde vraag beantwoorden aub? Ik kan momenteel niet verder omdat ik niet begrijp hoe je moet meerderen... Met vriendelijke groeten, Lieve Scheirlynck

17.01.2020 - 14:14

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Lieve,

Je vraag stond bij de opmerkingen, vandaar dat ik hem over het hoofd zag.

Je meerdert zowel aan de voor- als achterkant 8 keer 1 steek aan beide kanten van de middelste 2 steken, dus 16 steken aan elke kant, dus 32 steken in totaal. Omdat je op 160 steken moet komen begrijp ik dat je maat 9/10 jaar maakt, waarbij je dus 128 steken hebt opgezet. 128 + 32 steken is 160 steken.

Het meerderen doe je door steeds een omslag te maken aan beide kanten van de 2 steken midden voor en de 2 steken midden achter. Op de volgende naald brei je deze omslagen gedraaid om gaatjes te voorkomen.

18.01.2020 - 12:11

country flag Scheirlynck Lieve wrote:

Ik zocht een filmpje voor het meerderen van 114 steken naar 160 omdat ik het niet goed begrijp, maar vond er geen. De uitleg begrijp ik niet. 8 meerderingen van twee steken zowel vooraan als achteraan is volgens mij slechts 32 steken extra?

04.12.2019 - 19:12

country flag Scheirlynck Lieve wrote:

Ik brei het patroon voor kinderen van 9 tot 10 jaar. Hoe geraak ik van 114 steken naar 160 als ik 8 keer twee steken verdubbel zowel vooraan als achteraan. Groeten, Lieve Scheirlynck

04.12.2019 - 19:10

country flag Heike Petry wrote:

Hallo liebes Drops Team, kann ich für diese Hose auch eure Baby Merinowolle nehmen? Ich möchte die Hose als Kuschelhose für zu Hause stricken und sie soll nicht zu warm sein und nicht kratzen. Viele Grüße, Heike

05.02.2019 - 20:57

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Petry, BabyMerino gehört auch zur Garngruppe A, und kann hier auch hier gestrickt, beachten Sie nur, daß BabyMerino andere Eigenschaft hat (lieber die Maschenprobe zuerst stricken, dann waschen und die Nadelgrösse wenn nötig anpassen (mehr über Garnpflege lesen Sie hier. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

06.02.2019 - 08:58

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