Tickles by DROPS Design

Tunic with raglan and lace pattern, worked top down for kids. Size 2 - 12 years Piece is knitted in DROPS Karisma.

DROPS design: Pattern u-074-bn
Yarn group B
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Size: 2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Size in cm: 92 - 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
300-300-350-350-350-400 g colour 30, denim blue

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group B)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm – or size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.
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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 2.20 £ /50g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.

RAGLAN:
Increase for raglan on each side of A.1 in every transition between sleeves and body.

INCREASE 2 STITCHES BEFORE A.1 (only applies to size 2 years):
Work until 1 stitch remains before A.1:
Work 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over, work A.1. Knit yarn overs twisted on next round to avoid holes. Work the increased stitches in stocking stitch.

INCREASE 2 STITCHES AFTER A.1 (only applies to size 2 years):
Work A.1, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over. Knit yarn overs twisted on next round to avoid holes. Work the increased stitches in stocking stitch.

INCREASE 1 STITCH BEFORE A.1 (applies to all sizes):
Work until A.1:
Work 1 yarn over, work A.1. Knit yarn overs twisted on next round to avoid holes. Work the increased stitches in stocking stitch.

INCREASE 1 STITCH AFTER A.1 (applies to all sizes):
Work A.1, 1 yarn over. Knit yarn overs twisted on next round to avoid holes. Work the increased stitches in stocking stitch.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sides of body):
Work until 1 stitch remains before marker thread. Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker is between these 2 stitches), and make 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, knit 2 together (marker thread), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).
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TUNIC:
Worked in the round on circular needle from mid back. Work top down.

YOKE:
Cast on 72-76-80-80-84-84 stitches on a short circular needle size 4 mm with Karisma. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. Work next round as follows from mid back: Work 5-6-7-7-8-8 stitches in stocking stitch (= half back piece), A.1 (= 11 stitches), 4 stitches in stocking stitch (= sleeve), A.1, 10-12-14-14-16-16 stitches in stocking stitch (= front piece), A.1, 4 stitches in stocking stitch (= sleeve), A.1, 5-6-7-7-8-8 stitches in stocking stitch (= half back piece). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Continue this pattern AT THE SAME TIME on next round begin increases for RAGLAN – see explanation above. NOTE! Increase differently on body and sleeves as explained below.

SIZE 2 YEARS:
INCREASE AS FOLLOWS ON FRONT/BACK PIECE:
Increase 4 stitches on back piece and 4 stitches on front piece (= 2 stitches before/after A.1): Increase like this every other round 4 times.
Then increase 2 stitches on back piece and 2 stitches on front piece (= 1 stitch before/after A.1): Increase like this every other round 12 times.

INCREASE AS FOLLOWS ON SLEEVES:
Increase 2 stitches on each sleeve (= 1 stitch before/after A.1): Increase every other round 14 times, then increase every 4th round 1 time (= 15 times in total).

SIZE 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years:
INCREASE AS FOLLOWS ON FRONT/BACK PIECE:
Increase 2 stitches on back piece and 2 stitches on front piece (= 1 stitch before/after A.1): Increase every other round 21-22-24-24-26 times in total.

INCREASE AS FOLLOWS ON SLEEVES:
Increase 2 stitches on each sleeve (= 1 stitch before/after A.1): Increase every other round 11-12-12-12-12 times, then increase every 4th round 5-5-6-6-7 times (16-17-18-18-19 times in total).

ALL SIZES:
After all increases are done there are 212-224-236-248-252-264 stitches on needle. Work pattern as before (without increases) until piece measures 14-16-16-18-18-19 cm from cast-on edge mid back. Work next round as follows: Work the first 31-33-35-37-38-40 stitches (= half back piece), slip the next 44-46-48-50-50-52 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-6-8-8 new stitches (= in the side under sleeve), work the next 62-66-70-74-76-80 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 44-46-48-50-50-52 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-6-8-8 new stitches (= in the side under sleeve), work the last 31-33-35-37-38-40 stitches (= half back piece). Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 136-144-152-160-168-176 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in each side, in the middle of the 6-6-6-6-8-8 new stitches that were cast on. Continue working in stocking stitch in the round over all stitches. When piece measures 4 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of marker threads in the sides - read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 2½.-3.-3½.-4.-4½.-5½ cm 6 times in total = 160-168-176-184-192-200 stitches. When piece measures 21-23-27-29-33-36 cm from division, work 2 ridges. Knit 1 round and loosely cast off by purling. Tunic measures approx. 40-44-48-52-56-60 cm in total from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Slip the stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles/a short circular needle and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-6-6-8-8 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 50-52-54-56-58-60 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread mid under sleeve and work in stocking stitch in the round. When piece measures 3 cm, decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2-3-3-3½-3½-4 cm 7-7-8-8-9-9 times in total = 36-38-38-40-40-42 stitches. Continue in stocking stitch until sleeve measures 22-26-30-33-38-42 cm from division. Work 2 ridges. Knit 1 round and loosely cast off by purling. Work the other sleeve the same way.

Diagram

= knit
= purl
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1 and pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over on needle, on next round knit yarn over

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 30-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (13)

Françoise HEYNEMAN 10.01.2020 - 19:37:

Merci beaucoup pour votre réponse ! A bientôt ! Françoise

Françoise HEYNEMAN 09.01.2020 - 21:35:

Comment faire pour enregistrer les explications en PDF si on ne dispose pas d'imprimante ? D'avance merci. Ce petite modèle est magnifique !

DROPS Design 10.01.2020 kl. 09:02:

Bonjour Mme Heyneman, cliquez sur "imprimer" puis sélectionner une imprimante virtuelle, vous pourrez ainsi sauvegarder les explications en format .PDF. Bon tricot!

Roberta Ferrari 07.12.2019 - 15:44:

Ciao non capisco: per aumento ai ai lati davanti e dietro devo fare 1 gettato prima e dopo il diagramma o quello che dice in "suggerimenti per aumenti ai lati davanti e dietro?"

DROPS Design 09.12.2019 kl. 16:37:

Buongiorno Roberta. Se sta aumentando per il raglan, deve seguire le indicazioni per gli aumenti prima / dopo il diagramma. Se invece sta lavorando il davanti / dietro e ha già messo in attesa le maglie delle maniche, segue le indicazioni per aumentare ai lati del davanti / dietro. Buon lavoro!

Deb 04.12.2018 - 13:20:

Continued: Instructions for size ¾ say: “Increase 2 stitches on back piece and 2 stitches on front piece 22 times 4 increases each round. X 22 = 44 increases “Increase 2 stitches on each sleeve 17 times 4 X 17 = 68 76 cast on + 44 front & back increases + 68 sleeve increases = 188 total stitches. I should have 224 st after all increases. I am short 36 stitches! Please. What am I doing wrong

DROPS Design 04.12.2018 kl. 14:02:

Dear Deb, inc 4 sts on body (2 on front piece + 2 on back piece) x 21 times (size 3/4 years) = 4x21 = 84 sts - inc on sleeve: 2 sts x 2 sleeves x 16 times = 4x16= 64 sts. You started with 76 sts + 84 sts + 64 sts = 224 sts. Happy knitting!

Deb 04.12.2018 - 13:18:

I am making size ¾. I do not have the correct total stitches after the increases. It sounds like I should: Knit ½ back piece Increase 1 Knit A.1 Increase 1 Knit sleeve Increase 1 Knit A.1 Increase 1 Knit front piece Increase 1 Knit A.1 Increase 1 Knit sleeve Increase 1 Knit A.1 Increase 1 Knit ½ back piece Continued

Deb 04.12.2018 - 07:03:

In the schematic you say the neck width is 11cm for size 3/4. This would make the neck circumference 22 cm. Yes? If the gauge is 2.1 stitches per cm.: Wouldn’t the number of stitches to cast on be 46 st.? (2.1 st. per cm X 22 cm neck = 46.2 stitches), not 76 stitches for size 3/4?

DROPS Design 04.12.2018 kl. 07:55:

Dear Deb, the 11 cm are the width of the neckline measured flat, ie the whole neckline (circumference) will be: 10 sts for back piece + the 11 sts for each of the 4 raglan lines + 4 sts for each sleeve + 10 sts for front piece = 72 sts = 34 cm circumference. Happy knitting!

Claudette Bouchard 10.05.2018 - 22:15:

Je ne vois pas d’instruction pour les motifs A-1, que faire après l’empiècement? Je vois les nombres de mailles pour les manches, le devant et le dos mais aucune note quant a ce motif.

DROPS Design 11.05.2018 kl. 08:10:

Bonjour Mme Bouchard, après avoir divisé les manches et monté les mailles sous les manches, on continue le devant et le dos en rond, en jersey (= on ne tricote plus A.1). Bon tricot!

Astrid 26.04.2018 - 17:38:

Hei ,sorry,så hvor jeg gjorde feil,hjelper å se ting på trykk.Bare dumt at jeg fikk sendt det.Mvh Astrid

Astrid 25.04.2018 - 22:38:

Hei,la opp 84 masker,men får det ikke til å stemme med inndelingen: 8m til halve ryggen,11+4 til arm,16 til forstykket,11+4 til arm,8 til halv rygg.Hva er det jeg ikke ser?? Takk for hjelp.

Käst Jessica 11.02.2018 - 09:20:

Hallo nach der Passe habe ich 4 Maschen für den Ärmel und 14 Maschen für das Vorderteil. Zunahmen Ärmel insgesamt 18 je 2 Maschen = 36 + 4 Anfangsmaschen= 40 Maschen. Vorderteil 24 Zunahmen + 14 Anfangsmaschen sind 62 Maschen. Nach den Zunahmen wie folgt stricken 35 Maschen Vorderteil, habe aber laut Berechnung nur 31 Maschen. Dann 48 Maschen Ärmel stilllegen, habe aber nur 40 Maschen. Finde den Fehler nicht. Wenn ich mich an die Zunahmen halte habe ich zu wenige Maschen.

DROPS Design 12.02.2018 kl. 09:11:

Liebe Frau Käst, zwischen Ärmel und Vorder- & RÜckenteil haben Sie die 11 Maschen im Muster A.1, so stricken Sie die Maschen für das halbe Rückenteil, und dann die Maschen für die Ärmel stillegen - Beachten Sie, daß Sie die richtige Größe folgen, die beschriebenen Zunahmen für Raglan gehören zu Größe 7/8 und 9/10 aber die 35 M für Vorderteil und 48 M für die Ärmel gehören zu Größe 5/6. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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