DROPS / 180 / 29

Autumn Butterfly by DROPS Design

Knitted shawl with wave pattern. The piece is worked in DROPS Delight and DROPS Kid-Silk.

DROPS Design: Pattern no de-176
Yarn group A + A or C
Measurements: Width at top: approx. 183 cm / 72''. Length in middle: approx. 79 cm / 31''
DROPS Delight from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
350 g color 05, beige/grey/pink
And use:
DROPS Kid-Silk from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150 g color 19, dark green

The piece can also be knitted using yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group C)" – see the link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 5.5 MM/US 9 – or the size needed to get 16 stitches and 20 rows stockinette stitch with 1 strand of each quality on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.90 $ /50g
DROPS Delight print DROPS Delight print 3.90 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns

75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.80 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 5.80 $ /25g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 5.80 $ /25g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 62.10$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

Increase 1 stitch by making a yarn over. On the next row knit the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes.

See diagram A.1 to A.3. The diagram shows all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

Work short rows over the outermost repeat + the 2 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side of the shawl. Work from the right side as follows:
Work 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, work stockinette stitch over all stitches in the first repeat of A.1 (= 3 stitches on the first row in the diagram), turn, tighten the strand to prevent a hole and work stockinette stitch back over the stitches in A.1, 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Turn and work pattern over all stitches on the needle, turn, work 2 stitches garter stitch, stockinette stitch over all stitches in the first repeat of A.1, turn, tighten the strand and work back. Repeat the short rows as shown in the diagrams (i.e. every 12th row).
NOTE: Because of the increases in the pattern, you will work over more and more stitches when you work short rows. When working diagrams A.3a and A.3b work the short rows over both the two diagrams + the 2 edge stitches in each side of the piece.

The shawl is worked back and forth on circular needle. Work garter stitch first until there are enough stitches to work pattern.

Cast on 7 stitches with 1 strand Delight + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands) with circular needle SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9 / US 9. Knit 1 row.
Now work as follows:
ROW 1: Knit 2 stitches, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 2 = 11 stitches.
ROW 2: Knit back. NOTE: the yarn overs are knitted twisted to prevent holes.
ROW 3: Knit 2 stitches, insert the first marker, 1 yarn over, knit 2 stitches, insert 2nd marker, 1 yarn over, knit 3 stitches, 1 yarn over, insert 3rd marker, knit 2 stitches, 1 yarn over, insert 4th marker, knit 2 stitches = 15 stitches.
ROW 4: Knit back.
Now continue with GARTER STITCH – see description above and increase as follows: Increase after the 1st and 2nd marker and before the 3rd and 4th marker – read INCREASE TIP! Increase in this way every row from the right side (i.e. every 2nd row) a total of 3 times = 27 stitches. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! On the next row from the right side increase 1 stitch = 28 stitches. Work back 1 row.
Work PATTERN – see description above, as follows: Work 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, A.1 (= 8 repeats of 3 stitches on row 1), 2 edge stitches garter stitch. On every 12th row work SHORT ROWS – see description above, in each side. When A.1 has been completed in height, there are 236 stitches on the row.
Continue with A.2 over each repeat of A.1. When A.2 has been completed in height, there are 428 stitches on the row.
Now work as follows: 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, * A.3a (= 26 stitches), A.3b (= 27 stitches) *, repeat from *-* until there are 2 stitches left (= 8 times), 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. When A.3a and A.3b have been completed in height, there are 668 stitches on the row. Work 1 ridge and bind off. To prevent a tight bind-off edge, you can use a larger needle or you can make a yarn over which is then bind off after approx. every 4th stitch. Cut and fasten the strand. The piece measures approx. 79 cm / 31'' down the middle of the shawl.

Place the piece in luke warm water until thoroughly wet. Carefully squeeze the water out – do not twist the shawl. Then roll the piece in a towel and squeeze to remove even more water – the piece will now just be damp. Lay the piece on a floor rug or a mattress – pull it gently into the measurements given at the top of the pattern. Allow it to dry. Repeat the process every time the garment is washed.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 01.09.2017
Correction on colour number in delight. Should be colour 05.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
= knit 2 stitches together
= make 1 yarn over between 2 stitches. On the next row purl the yarn overs so that there are holes
= on this row, work SHORT ROWS – see description in the text!

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 180-29) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (14)

Yveline Candau 20.04.2020 - 16:43:

Bonjour je ne comprends rien à l explication du chale faut il tricoter les diagrammes en même temps ou à la suite les uns des autres pourquoi le a3b est il placé avant le a3a et pourquoi faut -il des rgs raccourcis merci en attente de vous lire

DROPS Design 21.04.2020 kl. 10:06:

Bonjour Mme Candeau, vous tricotez les diagrammes A.3a et A.3b en même temps ainsi: 2 m point mousse, (les 26 m de A.3a, les 27 m de A.3b), vous répétez ces (26+27 m) 8 fois au total, autrement dit jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 2 mailles et terminez par 2 m de bordure au point mousse. Les rangs raccourcis permettent de donner de l'envergure (largeur totale en haut du châle) sans ajouter trop de longueur (hauteur). Bon tricot!

Andrea Kulas 13.02.2018 - 15:29:

Ich wollte mal Nachfragen ob die verkürzten Reihen nur über den 1. Rapport jeder 12. Reihe oder über jeden Rapport gestrickt werden.

DROPS Design 13.02.2018 kl. 16:58:

Liebe Frau Kulas, die verkürzten Reihen werden über in jeder 12. Reihe gestrickt: über den 1. A.2 (+ 2 M kraus rechts) auf beiden Seiten (= 1. bei der Hinreihe und 1. bei der Rückreihe). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Maja Kristensen 03.01.2018 - 18:40:

Skal jeg kun strikke forkortede pinde i yderste venstre rapport + yderste højre rapport? Skal jeg ikke strikke forkortede pinde i alle rapporter på hver 12. Pind? På forhånd tak. Maja

DROPS Design 22.01.2018 kl. 16:23:

Hej Maja, du strikker kun forkortede pinde i de yderste rapporter. God fornøjelse!

Joan 13.11.2017 - 01:28:

Suggest adding stitch markers between sections. Also a statement of approximately how many yards would be needed for this project would be helpful.Love, Love this pattern!!

DROPS Design 13.11.2017 kl. 11:20:

Dear Joan, you can calculate amount of yarn required from material required and yardage for each ball - see under tab "Materials" and shadecard to yarn used in this pattern. Happy knitting!

Susanne Damgaard 24.09.2017 - 19:02:

Hej! Tak for tidligere svar. Jeg har nu printet opskriften ud, men der mangler et diagram i det printede. Det drejer sig om diagrammet med 41 masker øverst. Med venlig hilsen Susanne.

DROPS Design 27.09.2017 kl. 08:34:

Hei Susanne. Vi kan ikke se at det er noe feil med utskriften. Den siste siden vi printer er ang. Merino Mania. Har du klikket på ditt printer ikon eller "Skriv ud: Opskriften" til høyre/under bildet? Du må bruke "Skriv ud: Opskriften" på siden. Evnt. må du sjekke dine innstillinger. God Fornøyelse!

Susanne Damgaard 09.09.2017 - 21:18:

Hej! Sjalet både lyder og ser bredt ud. I opskriften står der "bredde øverst: 183 cm". Er det ikke muligt, at nøjes med at strikke indtil man synes sjalet har en passende bredde? Men det vil i så fald, vel også påvirke længden på sjalet? Mvh Susanne Damgaard

DROPS Design 13.09.2017 kl. 14:01:

Hej Susanne, Ja men selvfølgelig kan du det :) Det er jo udtagningerne i diagrammet som gør bredden og her kan du jo vælge at hoppe over nogle af dem. Vi kan dog ikke hjælpe dig med at beregne hvilke, men det giver sig helt sikkert når du sidder med dit strikketøj. Du kan markere alle overgange imellem diagrammerne, så bliver det lettere at holde styr på. God fornøjelse!

Sabrina 30.08.2017 - 17:13:

Hallo, auf dem Bild hat das Tuch Anteile von einem Roséwein und/oder einem Pinkton. Die empfohlene Farbnummern Drops delight 08 hat aber laut Farbkarte keinen solchen. Das Dunkelgrün auch nicht Das scheint nicht die richtige Wolle oder Farbnummer zu sein. Also welche ist die wirklich richtige oder sind es vielleicht zwei verschiedene Drops delight Farbtöne? Danke vorab..

DROPS Design 01.09.2017 kl. 15:10:

Liebe Sabrina, die richtige Farbe Delight ist Farbe Nr 05 - Anleitung wird gleich korrigiert. Danke für den Hinweis. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Anna Step 26.08.2017 - 19:54:

Dear Drops team! Thank y ou for a pretty shawl pattern! I`m just wondering about the colours sequence... Perhaps you could some info into the pattern. Cheers!

DROPS Design 27.08.2017 kl. 08:35:

Hello Anna. The shawl is worked in kid silk and delight. Delight is a self striping type of yarn: colour changes within each skein. It looks as if you were using different colours, but it's the skein itself that changes colour. Here you can find the colour shade card for drops delight. Happy knitting!

Pauliina Lilja 28.07.2017 - 11:19:

Ohjeessa on käytetty sävyä 05. EI sävyä 08. Best regards Drops Retailer

Carmen 03.07.2017 - 18:40:

Schön harmonisch. Werde ich nacharbeiten. Es erinnert mich an einen Nachtfalter

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