DROPS / 180 / 35

Winter Serenity by DROPS Design

The set consists of: Knitted hat with garter stitch and wrist warmers. The set is worked in DROPS Alpaca.

DROPS Design: Pattern no z-807
Yarn group A
-----------------------------------------------------------
For the whole set, there will be enough yarn with approx. 150 g in both sizes in DROPS Alpaca.
-----------------------------------------------------------

HAT:
Sizes: S/M - L/XL
Fits head size: approx. 54/56 - 58/60 cm
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to Yarn Group A)
100 g in both sizes in colour 7323, aqua grey

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see the link below.

DROPS NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 48 rows garter stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM for rib – or the size needed to get 26 stitches and 34 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
----------------------------------------------------------

WRIST WARMERS:
Sizes: S/M - L/XL
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to Yarn Group A)
50 g in both sizes in colour 7323, aqua grey

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see the link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 32 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM for rib – or the size needed to get 26 stitches and 34 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
----------------------------------------------------------

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 3.20 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth – for hat):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP (for wrist warmers and hat):
All increases are made from the right side!
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on the next round/row knit the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes.

DECREASE TIP (for hat):
All decreases are made from the right side!
Decrease 1 stitch after the marker thread as follows: Knit 2 together.
----------------------------------------------------------

HAT:
The piece is worked back and forth on the needle and is sewn together mid back to finish. 
Loosely cast on 122-142 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side) with needle size 2.5 mm and Alpaca. Purl 1 row from the wrong side, then work rib (= knit 2/ purl 2) with 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – see description above, in each side.
When the piece measures 6 cm, change to needle size 3 mm and insert 5 marker threads in the piece from the right side as follows: Insert 1 marker thread after 1 stitch, the next 4 are inserted with 24-28 stitches between them, after the last marker thread, there are 25-29 stitches. Now continue working in garter stitch. On the next row from the right side, increase 1 stitch after all the marker threads (= 5 stitches increased) – read INCREASE TIP! REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Increase in this way every 2nd row 3 more times and then every 4th row a total of 7 times = 177-197 stitches. When the piece measures 11-12 cm from the rib decrease 1 stitch after each marker thread on the next row from the right side (= 5 stitches decreased) – read DECREASE TIP! Decrease in this way every 2nd row a total of 17-19 times = 92-102 stitches.
Work all stitches together 2 and 2 on each row from the right side a total of 3 times = 12-13 stitches. The hat measures approx. 25-26 cm.
Pull 1 thread through the remaining stitches and pull tight. Sew the hat together mid back inside 1 edge stitch.
----------------------------------------------------------

RIGHT WRIST WARMER: 
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles. 
Cast on 65-70 stitches with double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and Alpaca. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 2/ purl 3). After 4 rounds rib, decrease all purl 3 to purl 2 by purling together the 2 first stitches in every purl section = 52-56 stitches. Continue rib with knit 2/purl 2 until the piece measures 5-6 cm. Knit 1 round where you decrease 7-11 stitches evenly on round = 45 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work stocking stitch. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When the piece measures 14 cm start increasing to thumb gusset. Increase 1 stitch on each side of the next to last stitch on the round (i.e. on the inside of the hand) – READ INCREASE TIP! Increase in this way on each side of the increased stitches every 3rd round a total of 6-7 times = 13-15 thumb stitches and 57-59 stitches in total. When the piece measures 19-20 cm place the thumb stitches + 1 stitch on each side of these on 1 thread (= 15-17 stitches on the thread). Cast on 3 new stitches behind the thumb on the next round = 45 stitches on the needle. When the piece measures 23-24 cm, increase 11-15 stitches evenly on the next round = 56-60 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm. Work 8 rounds rib in the round (= knit 1/ purl 1). Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The wrist warmer measures approx. 25-26 cm.

THUMB: 
The piece is worked in the round.
Place the stitches from the thread back on double pointed needles size 3 mm and, in addition, knit up 5-7 stitches in the edge at the back of the thumb stitches = 20-24 stitches on the needle. Work 3 rounds stocking stitch. Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and work 6 rounds rib (= knit 1/ purl 1). Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. 

LEFT WRIST WARMER:
Work as for right, but increase for thumb on each side of the second stitch on the round (instead of the next to last).

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 180-35) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (12)

Lori Hintzsche 07.10.2020 - 02:32:

I'm trying to determine which size of the WRIST WARMERS to make. Is the measurement provided (9 3/4" -- 10 1/4") the finished length or the width? If it is the length, could you provide the hand width? Thank you!!!

DROPS Design 07.10.2020 kl. 08:50:

Dear Mrs Hintzsche, this is the total length - if your tension is matching the 24 sts = 10 cm/4", the 45 stitches for the hand will measure 18.75 cm /7.38 inches around (before/after thumb). Happy knitting!

Frisotti 07.03.2019 - 22:56:

Bonjour. Lorsque vous dites pour le bonnet  « Quand l'ouvrage mesure 11-12 cm depuis les côtes » est-ce depuis le bord inférieur de l’ouvrage, c’est-à-dire depuis le début ou bien à partir du 1er rang point mousse ( dernier rang de côtes)? Merci 😊

DROPS Design 08.03.2019 kl. 08:07:

Bonjour Frisotti, on mesure ces 11-12 cm à partir du début point mousse (= après les côtes), pas à partir du rang de montage. Bon tricot!

Sylvie Allard 02.02.2019 - 15:55:

Bonjour ! Pouvez-vous m’expliquer cette partie de la mitaine ? Tricoter 1 tour endroit en diminuant 7-11 mailles à intervalles réguliers = 45 mailles. Je ne comprends pas comment je dois l’exécuter. Merci !

DROPS Design 04.02.2019 kl. 11:20:

Bonjour Mme Allard, vous tricotez un tour sur les 52-56 mailles et en même temps, tricotez 2 m ens à l'end à intervalles réguliers un total de 7-11 fois - cette leçon explique comment placer les diminutions. Bon tricot!

Maryanne 23.07.2018 - 07:20:

What is the best bind off method for the gloves?I've started a normal bind off but I'm worried it will be too tight.

DROPS Design 23.07.2018 kl. 08:10:

Hi Maryanne, If your binding off is too tight, you can use a size larger needle to bind off or make 1 yarn over regularly while binding off. The yarn overs are bound off as normal stitches. Happy knitting!

Janice Hite 15.07.2018 - 02:46:

I have been decreasing on the hat and got to this point: "Work all stitches together 2 and 2 on each row from the right side a total of 3 times = 12-13 stitches. The hat measures approx. 25-26 cm / 9 3/4"-10 1/4''." I don't know what this means. Thank you

DROPS Design 15.07.2018 kl. 14:30:

Hi Janice, You knit 2 stitches together, then knit 2 stitches together and so on to the end of the round and do this for 3 rounds. You are then left with 12-13 stitches depending on the size you are working. The measurements are from the cast-on edge to where you have worked so far. Happy knitting!

Christina Ghiasvand 26.12.2017 - 19:49:

Det går inte att skriva ut mönstret DROPS Serenity 180-35 på svenska. Det kommer inte med någon beskrivning, bara bild och info.

Screve Isabelle 19.11.2017 - 08:59:

Je débute en tricot... esy-il normal que le modele de bonnet soit d'un cote droit et de l'autre arrondi ? Un peu comme un D Merci

DROPS Design 20.11.2017 kl. 09:30:

Bonjour Mme Screve, on augmente d'abord dans la partie point mousse pour créer la forme du béret puis on va diminuer. En cas de doute, n'hésitez pas à montrer votre ouvrage à votre magasin (même par mail), un visuel leur permettra de vous aider. Bon tricot!

Irena 06.10.2017 - 14:07:

Wszystko jasne - dziękuję za pomoc :)))

Irena 05.10.2017 - 18:20:

Witam. Czapeczka zrobiona, ale mam dylemat z mitenką-z opisu wynika, że po zrobieniu 14 cm należy dodawać na kciuk po jednym oczku z każdej strony. 6 razy co 3 okrążenie. 6 razy dwa oczka daje mi 12 oczek. W opisie jest, że 13. Skąd to trzynaste oczko?

DROPS Design 05.10.2017 kl. 22:33:

Witaj Ireno! Na klinek kciuka dodajemy po 1 oczku z obu stron przedostatniego oczka w okrążeniu (mamy 3 oczka klinka). Dalej dodajemy oczka z obu stron dodanych oczek i powtarzamy dodawanie oczek jeszcze 6 razy. Na koniec mamy 12 dodanych oczek + 1 oczko na środku (przedostatnie oczko w okr.)= 13 oczek. Powodzenia!

Barbara 10.09.2017 - 11:41:

Sul ferro successivo dal diritto del lavoro, aumentare 1 maglia dopo tutti i segnapunti (= 5 aumenti) – leggere il pSUGGERIMENTO PER GLI AUMENTI! FARE ATTENZIONE ALLA TENSIONE DEL LAVORO! Aumentare in questo modo ogni 2 e 3 ferri e poi ogni 4 ferri per un totale di 7 volte = 177-197 maglie. Modello 180/35. Non riesco a capire quando aumentare le maglie??😱

DROPS Design 10.09.2017 kl. 11:50:

Buongiorno Barbara. Abbiamo corretto il testo. Dopo aver aumentato la prima volta, deve aumentare ogni 2 ferri altre 3 volte e poi ogni 4 ferri per un totale di 7 volte (quindi in tutto aumenta 11 volte per un totale di 55 maglie in più). Buon lavoro!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 180-35

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.