DROPS / 65 / 14

DROPS 65-14 by DROPS Design

DROPS Dress in Safran and Pelliza.

Sizes: Small - Medium - Large

Finished measurements: See chart

Materials: SAFRAN, from Garnstudio
150-150-200 g col. no. 15, ivy.
100-150-150 g col. no. 21, beige.
100-100-100 g col. no. 22, brown.
50 - 50 - 50 g col. no. 23, dark brown.
50 - 50 - 50 g col. no. 30, turquoise.
50 - 50 - 50 g col. no. 28, orange.
and use: PELLIZA, from Garnstudio
50 -50 -50 g col. no. 03, sea green.

DROPS 3 mm [US 2] circular needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

DROPS 3 mm [US D/3] Crochet hook, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 2.35 $ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 2.35 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Pelliza DROPS Pelliza
100% Polyamide
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Needles & Hooks

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Tension: 23 sts x 32 rows on needle size 3 mm with Safran and stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm. Needle size is only recommended!

Pattern: See diagram - M.1, M.2 and M.3. One diagram = 1 repeat.

Knitting tip: All dec are made on WS of work, i.e. the side that is out when upper part is being knitted. Cast off 1 st after 1 edge st as follows: Slip 1 st, K1, psso. Cast off 1 st before 1 edge st as follows: K2 tog.

Crocheted-square: 1 square measures approx 10½ x 10½ cm. Squares are crocheted with 4 colors as follows: Color 1 = ivy. Color 2 = turquoise / orange. Color 3 = sea green Pelliza. Color 4 = brown.
Square 1: Color no 2 = orange.
Square 2: Color no 2 = turquoise.
Crochet 6 ch with color 1 and hook size 3 mm and form these to en ring with 1 sl st in 1st ch.

1st row: Color 1: 3 ch, then 2 dc in ring, 3 ch, * 3 dc, 3 ch *, repeat from *-* 3 times. Finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of row. Turn.

2nd row: Color 2: 3 ch, then 2 dc in bow, 3 ch, 3 dc in same bow, * 3 ch, 3 dc in following bow, 3 ch, 3 dc in same bow, * repeat from *-* 3 times. Finish with 3 ch and then 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of row. Turn.

3rd row: Color 3: 3 ch, 2 dc in bow, 3 ch, * 3 dc in following bow, 3 ch, 3 dc in same bow, 3 ch, 3 dc in following bow, 3 ch *, repeat from *-* 3 times, 3 dc in following bow, 3 ch, 3 dc in same bow, 3 ch, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of row. Turn.

4th row: color 4: 3 ch, 2 st in first bow, 1 ch, * 3 dc in following bow, 3 ch, 3 dc in same bow, 1 ch, 3 dc in following bow, 1 ch, 3 dc in following bow, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* 3 times, 3 dc in following bow, 3 ch, 3 dc in same bow, 1 ch, 3 dc in following bow, 1 ch. Finish with 1 slip st in 3rd ch from beg of row. Turn.

5th row: Still color 4: 3 ch, 2 dc in first bow, 1 ch, 3 dc in following bow, 1 ch * 3 dc in following bow, 3 ch, 3 dc in same bow, 1 ch, 3 dc in following bow, 1 ch, 3 dc in following bow, 1 ch, 3 dc in following bow, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* 3 times, 3 dc in following bow, 3 ch, 3 dc in same bow, 1 ch, 3 dc in following bow, 1 ch. Finish with 1 slip st in 3rd ch from beg of row.

Fasten threads.

Dress: Crochet 5-5-6 of Square 1 and 5-5-6 of Square 2. Crochet the squares together with brown - see fig. 1 - alternating Square 1 and Square 2.
Pick up and knit 264-264-312 sts on circular needles with brown along the top of the crocheted squares (pick up approx. 26-26-26 sts in every square); join and place a marker at the join.
Knit Pattern 1 and then Pattern 2. At arrow A in the pattern decrease 24-12-24 sts evenly distributed on the row =240-252-288 sts. Then dec 12-12-12 sts evenly distributed at all B arrows = 192-204-240 sts. After Pattern 2 the work measures approx. 40-40-40 cm. Change to beige. Dec 10-6-10 sts evenly distributed on the row when the work measures 43-44-45 cm, 46-48-50 cm and 49-52-55 cm = 162-186-210 sts. When the work measures 57-60-63 cm, knit Pattern 2 once.

Upper part: Knit the upper part from the wrong side so that the wrong side is on the outside. Switch to ivy and turn the work so that the wrong side is out. Knit 1 row of garter st and at the same time decrease 2 sts = 160-184-208 sts. Knit the next row as follows: * K 2 tog, yo *, repeat from *-*. Continue with Pattern 3 over all sts. When the work measures 69-73-76 cm, bind off 10-12-14 sts at each side for armholes. Knit the rest of the front and back separately.

Front: = 70-80-90 sts. Bind off 1 st at each side for armholes every other row - see Knitting tip 2-3-6 times = 66-74-78 sts. When the work measures 74-78- 82 cm, knit the next row as follows (seen from the wrong side): * K 2, yo *, repeat from *-*. On the next row, bind off all sts.

Back: = 70-80-90 sts. Knit to finished dimensions like the front.

Assembly: Turn the work inside out so that the right side is on the outside. Crochet double crochets with ivy and crochet hook size 3 uppermost around the entire dress.

Strap: Crochet 2 straps outermost at each side of the front with 1 cm in between. Crochet 1 strap as follows: row 1: 4 dc (the first dc is replaced by 3 slip sts). Repeat row 1 upwards until the strap measures approx. 20-22-24 cm - adjust the strap length by trying on the dress. Crochet the straps onto the back piece with double crochets.

Twisted cord: Cut 6 strands 250 cm in length in the following colors: 2 strands ivy, 1 strand brown, 1 strand beige, 1 strand turquoise and 1 strand orange. Have a friend help you by holding onto one end of all strands. Twist the strands together until they resist this. Fold the cord double and it will twist itself. Tie a knot in each end and pull the cord through the hole border underneath the upper part.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 03.03.2006
Upper part: ....
Knit the next row as follows: * K 2 tog, yo *, repeat from *-*.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= beige
= brown
= dark brown
= ivy
= orange
= turquoise
= sea green Pelliza
= K (M.3)
= K2 tog, yo
= yo, slip 1 st, K1, psso.
= yo, slip 1 st, K2 tog, psso, yo
= 4 ch
= 1 sc in left square, 1 ch, 1 sc in right square


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 65-14) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (12)

Ingrid Grahn 25.02.2019 - 08:30:

Hej! Mönster 65-14: Diagram M1och M2 innehåller bl.a. helfyllda rutor men jag kan inte se under rubriken Diagram förklaring vilken färg som avses. Se t.ex. varv 4 i diagram M1. Tack på förhand! Mvh Ingrid

DROPS Design 08.03.2019 kl. 09:50:

Hei Ingrid. Det er denne som er sjøgrønn pelliza. Firkanten er noe mindre i symbolforklaringen enn i diagrammet, vi skal se om vi kan få rettet på dette så de blir likere. God fornøyelse

Anne 12.04.2017 - 18:44:

Hallo, Wird alles hin und Rückfahrt gestrickt oder in der Runde? Leider kann ich das aus der Anleitung nicht ableiten

DROPS Design 18.04.2017 kl. 08:23:

Liebe Anne, das Kleid wird bis Armlöcher in der Runde gestrickt, dann wird jedes Teil hin- und zurück gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Anne 12.04.2017 - 18:43:

Hallo, Wird alles hin und Rückfahrt gestrickt oder in der Runde? Leider kann ich das aus der Anleitung nicht ableiten

Nataliya 09.08.2016 - 21:57:

Når jeg går over på å strikke forst. og bakst. hver for seg, det bli vel frem og tilbake? Hva er med mønsteret da, som i oppskriften er for rundt striking?

DROPS Design 24.08.2016 kl. 12:48:

Hej Nataliya. Mönstret er ogsaa til at strikke frem og tilbage.

Kristin 02.12.2013 - 20:39:

Tack för snabbt svar, nu kan jag sticka vidare! :0)

Kristin 01.12.2013 - 21:38:

Hej! Ä det meningen att man ska öka så kraftigt vid starten av överdelen? 2rm och ett omslag blir ju 33%ökning. Det ska inte vara 2rm TILLSAMMANS 1omslag? Med vänlig hälsning, Kristin

DROPS Design 02.12.2013 kl. 12:13:

Jo det skall stå * 2 rm tills, omslag *

Audrey 02.03.2013 - 14:30:

Bonjour, j'ai appris a faire mes carré granny au crochet avec seulement 1 maille entre les bride et 2 maille au coin.... mes carré sont plus gros que les 10,5 cm que vous suggéré avec votre modele, est-ce la raison???

DROPS Design 04.03.2013 kl. 08:54:

Bonjour Audrey, vous pouvez essayer avec un crochet plus petit ou en supprimant des ml si vous le souhaitez, l'idéal étant d'obtenir 1 carré = 10.5 x de côté. Bon crochet !

An 26.07.2012 - 14:33:

Drops pelliza ik denk dat deze niet meer verkocht word? tot welke garengroep behoort deze?

DROPS Design 26.07.2012 kl. 15:35:

Nee, klopt. Maar klik op de link voor Kleurenoverzicht voor Pelliza en je krijgt een lijst van alternatieven.

Gerdessus Michèle 06.06.2012 - 13:51:

Bonjour, Pour le haut de la robe, le point fantaisie M3 est expliqué comme si on tricotait toujours sur le même côté de l'ouvrage, tout en mailles endroit ! mais quand on sépare le devant du dos au moment des emmanchures, on tricote en allers retours endroit envers, et les explications du point ne sont pas données sur l'envers ! pas facile pour les jetés si on n'a pas l'habitude de faire des points ajourés ! mais le modèle est super joli ! merci ! et le coton Drops de très belle qualité !

DROPS Design 06.06.2012 kl. 14:49:

Bonjour Michele,Pour tricoter le haut de la robe, on tourne l'ouvrage envers sur l'extérieur, ainsi on tricote sur l'envers (= à l'endroit). Sauf indication contraire clairement stipulée, 1 case = 1 m x 1 rang. Quand on divise l'ouvrage, dans M3, les m tricotées ens vont se tricoter toujours à l'end (sur l'envers) et les rangs suivants à l'env (sur l'endroit).

Lotha 11.12.2009 - 21:01:

Fantastic dress, very creative and unique. Prachtig jeugdig zomerjurkje!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 65-14

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.