DROPS Baby / 29 / 12

Little Explorer by DROPS Design

Knitted baby jacket with cables, garter stitch and raglan, worked top down. Sizes: premature – 4 years. The piece is worked in DROPS BabyMerino.

DROPS Design: Pattern no bm-073-by
Yarn group A
Sizes: (premature) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Sizes in cm: (40/44) 48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104)
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
(150) 150-150-150-200 (200-200) g colour 37, light lavender

The piece can also be worked with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see the link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 3 MM – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 48 rows of garter stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3 MM – for the edge.

DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for the cables.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 521: (4) 5-5-5-6 (6-6) items.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 2.15 £ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 2.15 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 2.15 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.45£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

All the increases are made from the right side. Increase 8 stitches on a row as follows:
Work to the first A.1, 1 yarn over, work A.1, 1 yarn over. Repeat by all A.1 and A.2 (= 2 stitches increased by each cable = 8 stitches in total on the row). On the next row, the yarn overs are knitted twisted to prevent holes.

DECREASE TIP (for the sleeves):
All decreases are made from the right side!
Decrease 1 stitch in each side of the piece as follows: Work 1 stitch in garter stitch, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over (= 1 stitch decreased), work in garter stitch until there are 3 stitches left, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased) and finish with 1 stitch in garter stitch (= a total of 2 stitches decreased).

The first buttonhole is made when the piece measures approx. 1 cm, then make the next (3) 4-4-4-5 (5-5) with approx. 4 cm between them.
Decrease from the right side for the buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn) as follows: Work until there are 4 stitches left on the needle, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 2. On the next row, knit the yarn overs. There will be holes. 

The jacket is worked top down, back and forth on circular needle from mid front. The sleeves are worked back and forth on circular needle and are sewn together at the end.

Cast on (72) 72-80-80-80 (80-84) stitches (including 4 band stitches in each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 3 mm and Baby Merino. Work 2 RIDGES – see description above and increase 8 stitches on the last row = (80) 80-88-88-88 (88-92) stitches. The next row is worked as follows from the right side – remember BUTTONHOLES on the band – see description above: Work (11) 11-13-13-13 (13-14) stitches in garter stitch (= left front piece), A.1 (= 6 stitches), work 10 stitches garter stitch (= left sleeve), A.2 (= 6 stitches), work (14) 14-18-18-18 (18-20) stitches in garter stitch (= back piece), A.1 over the next 6 stitches, work 10 stitches in garter stitch (= right sleeve), A.2 over the next 6 stitches, work (11) 11-13-13-13 (13-14) stitches in garter stitch (= right front piece). Work 1 row from the wrong side.
Increase to RAGLAN – see description above – on each side of every A.1 and A.2 as follows: Increase 1 stitch on every 2nd row (0) 4-5-7-11 (12-16) times, then 1 stitch every 4th row (9) 8-9-9-8 (9-8) times = (152) 176-200-216-240 (256-284) stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! The piece measures approx. (8) 9-10-11-12 (13-14) cm from the cast-on edge.
The next row from the right side is worked as follows: (23) 26-30-32-35 (37-41) stitches in garter stitch, place the next (34) 40-44-48-54 (58-64) stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 7 stitches under the sleeve, work (38) 44-52-56-62 (66-74) stitches in garter stitch, place the next (34) 40-44-48-54 (58-64) stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 7 stitches under the sleeve, work (23) 26-30-32-35 (37-41) stitches in garter stitch = (98) 110-126-134-146 (154-170) stitches.
Insert 1 marker in the piece, THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Work garter stitch until the piece measures (9) 12-15-16-17 (20-23) cm from the marker. Cast off.

Place the (34) 40-44-48-54 (58-64) stitches from the thread back on circular needle size 3 mm.
Insert 1 marker in the piece, THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Cast on 4 stitches at the end of the next 2 rows (= 4 new stitches in each side of the piece) = (42) 48-52-56-62 (66-72) stitches. Work garter stitch back and forth.
When the piece measures 2 cm from the separation, decrease 1 stitch in each side of the piece – READ DECREASE TIP. Decrease in this way every (10th) 8th-8th-6th-6th (8th-8th) row a total of (3) 5-7-9-11 (12-14) times = (36) 38-38-38-40 (42-44) stitches.
Continue with garter stitch until the sleeve measures (10) 14-17-18-21 (24-29) cm. Cast off. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Sew together the sleeve seams inside the 1 edge stitch. Sew together the opening under the sleeves. Sew the buttons on to the left front piece.

Crochet an edge along the entire opening of the jacket with hook size 3 mm as follows, begin mid back on neck: * 1 double crochet, 1 chain stitch, skip forward approx.0.5 cm *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet.


= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
= Cable: Place 3 stitches on the cable needle behind the piece, knit 3, knit 3 from the cable needle
= Cable: Place 3 stitches on the cable needle in front of the piece, knit 3, knit 3 from the cable needle

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 29-12) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (36)

Katarzyna 08.03.2018 - 17:30:

I czy dodaje te 8 oczek na karczku po wykonaniu 2 ściągaczy francuskich na prawej czy lewej stronie robótki.? Katarzyna

DROPS Design 08.03.2018 kl. 21:25:

Witaj Katarzyno! Oczka należy dodać równomiernie. Jak to zrobić znajdziesz TUTAJ. Miłej pracy!

Katarzyna 08.03.2018 - 17:10:

Witam, w karczku na początku przerobić 2 ściągacze francuskie, a w ostatnim rzędzie dodać 8 oczek, ale w którym miejscu dodać te 8 oczek i w jaki sposób? Czy to ma być gdzieś w trakcie pracy, czy 8 o. na samym końcu, czy na samym początku, czy 4 na początku , i 4 na końcu? Bardzo proszę o odpowiedź. Katarzyna

DROPS Design 08.03.2018 kl. 21:26:

Witaj Katarzyno! Oczka należy dodać równomiernie. Jak to zrobić znajdziesz TUTAJ. Miłej pracy!

Charlotte 01.03.2018 - 16:36:

Hei. Sitter å strikker på denne i str 0-1 mnd. Etter økningene til ermer står det at man skal sitte igjen med 176 masker på pinnen, og oppskriften videre er lagt opp etter 176 masker. Problemet er at etter økningene sitter man igjen med 184 masker (har regnet på det og følger man oppskriften sitter man igjen med akkurat dette antallet) og ingenting stemmer lengre. Hvordan blir da fordelingen videre?

DROPS Design 06.03.2018 kl. 16:21:

Hej Charlotte, du har 80 masker, tager 8 masker ud pr raglan ialt 12 gange = 96+80=176 masker. God fornøjelse!

Czesława 27.02.2018 - 18:03:

Proszę wyjaśnić mi jak zrobić warkocz, gdzie go umiejscowić, jak zrobić reglan?

DROPS Design 27.02.2018 kl. 18:54:

Czesiu, warkocze są w miejscu reglanów (warkocz wg schematu A.1 z lewej strony, a wg A.2 z prawej). Ich rozmieszczenie jest opisane w początkowej części opisu karczku. Jak dodawać oczka na reglan: dodawać z każdej strony każdego schematu A.1 i A.2 następująco: dodać (0) 4-5-7-11 (12-16) razy 1 oczko co 2 rzędy i (9) 8-9-9-8 (9-8) razy 1 oczko co 4 rzędy = (152) 176-200-216-240 (256-284) oczka. Wszystko zależy, który rozmiar wykonujesz. Powodzenia!

Sylvia Milhado 16.12.2017 - 17:36:

Er staat nergens beschreven op welk moment je met de kabel begint. Ik begrijp nu dat dat waarschijnlijk de bedoeling is zodra je gaat meerderen bij A1 en A2. Klopt dat.

DROPS Design 17.12.2017 kl. 20:10:

Hoi Sylvia, Ja dat klopt inderdaad, de kabel zit in A.1 en A.2. Bij de paragraaf over de pas staat aangegeven waar je A.1 en A.2 breit en dat zijn dus de kabels.

Sheila Lebleu 14.12.2017 - 01:19:

Beste Dropsteam Hoe doe ik de 7 steken onder de arm aub? Ik heb 30 St dobbelsteen gebreid, dan 44 steken laten wachten en nu? Ik heb het filmpje hieronder bekeken maar snap het nog niet. Bedankt voor jullie antwoord. Sheila Lebleu

DROPS Design 14.12.2017 kl. 15:09:

Hallo Sheila, Nadat je de eerste 30 steken hebt gebreid, zet je de 40 steken op een hulpdraad. Dan zet je op de rechter naald 7 nieuwe steken op met lussen (zie video hieronder) en vervolgens brei je verder met de volgende steken op de linkernaald.

Sheila Lebleu 12.12.2017 - 21:57:

Dear Dropsteam Thank you for answering my question. Unfortunately I have another... In what stitch has the cable to be done please. You can answer in Dutch. Thank you.

DROPS Design 13.12.2017 kl. 08:48:

Hoi Sheila, De kabel wordt gemaakt in tricotsteeek.

Sheila Lebleu 11.12.2017 - 17:41:

How do I do the cables? Do I turn every 2 needles or do I have to do it in another way?

DROPS Design 12.12.2017 kl. 07:52:

Dear Mrs Lebleu, you will cross the sts in diagrams every 6th row (= last 4 rows in A.1/A.2 + first 2 rows in A.1/A.2). Happy knitting!

Stefanie 05.12.2017 - 17:46:

Liebes DROPS-Team, danke für das Video vom 29.11., das hat schon mal sehr geholfen! Aber im Gegensatz zu diesem Video werden ja in der Anleitung für die Babyjacke die Ärmel nicht schon rund gestrickt, sondern in Hin- und Rückreihen und dann zusammengenäht, oder? Könnte man sie nicht auch so wie im Video schon rund auf einem Nadelspiel stricken oder spricht etwas dagegen? Besten Dank für eine Antwort!

DROPS Design 06.12.2017 kl. 09:06:

Liebe Stefanie, die Ärmel dieser Jacke sind kraus rechts gestrickt, deshalb werden Sie hin und zurückgestrickt, dh immer mit rechten Maschen, aber gerne können Sie sie rund stricken (dann sollen Sie abwechslungsweise 1 Runde mit rechten Maschen, 1 Runde mit linken Maschen stricken - siehe Video). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Stefanie 28.11.2017 - 17:38:

Wie genau ist in der Passe der Satz "7 Maschen unter dem Arm anschlagen" zu verstehen? Schlägt man die auf der gleichen Nadel an, nachdem man die vorigen Maschen stillgelegt hat? Gibt es eventuell zum Einpassen der Ärmel ein Video?

DROPS Design 29.11.2017 kl. 08:57:

Liebe Stephanie, dieses Video zeigt (Zeit ab ca 06:54 wie man diese neue Maschen unter den Ärmel anschlägt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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