DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour 77% Alpaca, 23% Silk |
2.90 £ /25g |
Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
Change language:
English (UK/cm)#strawberryvanillasweater
DROPS design: Pattern as-074
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour 77% Alpaca, 23% Silk 2.90 £ /25g Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Strawberry Vanilla |
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Jumper with raglan and stripes, worked top down in DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. Size: S - XXXL
DROPS 178-57 |
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GARTER STITCH (worked in the round): 1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round. INCREASE TIP (evenly): To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 83 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 11) = 7.5. In this example increase after alternately approx. every 7th and 8th stitch. Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on next round work yarn over twisted to avoid holes. STRIPES (body): NOTE: The stripes begin after the 2 ridges in neck edge. STRIPE 1: Work 8-9-9-9-10-10 cm with powder pink. STRIPE 2: Work 8-9-9-10-10-10 cm with off white. STRIPE 3: Work 9-9-9-10-10-10 cm with powder pink. STRIPE 4: Work 9-9-10-10-10-11 cm with off white. STRIPE 5: Work 9-9-10-10-10-11 cm with powder pink. STRIPE 6: Work with off white until finished measurements. STRIPES (sleeves): Last stripe worked before stitches for sleeve were slipped on a stitch holder measures approx. 3-3-4-5-6-8 cm. Continue stripes like this: STRIPE 1: Continue with powder pink for approx. 6-6-5-5-4-2 cm (= this stripe including the 3-3-4-5-6-8 cm from yoke is approx. 9-9-9-10-10-10 cm). STRIPE 2: Work 9-9-10-10-10-10 cm with off white. STRIPE 3: Work with powder pink until sleeve measures 25-23-23-21-19-18 cm from division. RAGLAN: Increase 8 stitches on round as follows: Begin 1 stitch before marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over. Repeat at the other markers on round. On next round knit the yarn overs to make holes. DECREASE TIP: Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 4 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 4 (marker thread is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked. ---------------------------------------------------------- JUMPER: Worked in the round on circular needle from mid back, work top down. Back piece is longer than front piece. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles. YOKE: Cast on 83-86-90-94-98-102 stitches on a short circular needle size 4.5 mm with powder pink. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. AT THE SAME TIME on third round (= a knitted round) increase 11-12-14-18-20-28 stitches evenly – READ INCREASE TIP (evenly) = 94-98-104-112-118-130 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 5.5 mm after ridges. Insert a marker thread at beginning of round and move it upwards when working. Insert 4 marker threads in piece (without working the stitches): Insert 1st marker thread after the first 17-18-20-22-23-26 stitches (= half back piece), insert 2nd marker thread after the next 13 stitches (= right sleeve), insert 3rd marker thread after the next 34-36-39-43-46-52 stitches (= front piece), and insert 4th marker thread after the next 13 stitches (= left sleeve). 17-18-19-21-23-26 stitches remain on back piece after last marker thread. Work in stocking stitch and STRIPES (body) - see explanation above. AT THE SAME TIME On next round increase for RAGLAN - see explanation above, in every transition between body and sleeves. Increase like this every other round 19-21-22-24-26-28 times = 246-266-280-304-326-354 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Work next round as follows: Work 36-39-42-46-49-54 stitches (= half back piece), slip the next 51-55-57-61-65-69 stitches on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches under sleeve, work the next 72-78-83-91-98-108 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 51-55-57-61-65-69 stitches on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches under sleeve, work the remaining 36-39-41-45-49-54 stitches (= half back piece). BODY: = 160-172-186-202-220-240 stitches. Insert a marker here. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE! Continue in the round with stocking stitch and stripes (body). When piece measures 26-26-27-27-27-27 cm, increase 16-20-22-22-28-32 stitches evenly = 176-192-208-224-248-272 stitches. Now divide the piece for front and back piece and work back and forth as follows: Slip stitches for back piece on a stitch holder (i.e. the first and last 44-48-52-56-62-68 stitches on round = 88-96-104-112-124-136 stitches for back piece). Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm and work rib on front piece with off white as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, (knit 2, purl 2) until 3 stitches remain, knit 2, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When rib measures 2 cm, cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Jumper measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm from shoulder and down on front piece. Slip stitches from stitch holder back on circular needle 5.5 mm and work in stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side until piece measures 32-32-33-33-33-33 cm. Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm and work rib as on front piece. Jumper measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm from shoulder and down on back piece. SLEEVES: On sleeves continue with STRIPES (sleeve) - see explanation above. Slip the 51-55-57-61-65-69 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 5.5 mm and pick in addition up 1 new stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches cast on under sleeve and insert 1 marker thread mid under sleeve (= 4-4-5-5-6-6 new stitches on each side of marker thread) = 59-63-67-71-77-81 stitches on needle. Continue in stocking stitch. When piece measures 4 cm from division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - READ DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 6th-5th-6th-5th-5th-5th round 7-7-6-6-6-6 times in total = 45-49-55-59-65-69 stitches. Work until sleeve measures 25-23-23-21-19-18 cm from division. Work 1 round while adjusting number of stitches to 48-52-56-60-64-68. Switch to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and off white. Work rib (= knit 2/purl 2). When rib measures 2 cm, cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Work the other sleeve the same way. |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 309 catalogues and 11629 patterns translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (10)
Claire wrote:
Les explications sous "RANGS RACCOURCIS" sont à répêter entre les **, je dois donc comprendre qu'il faut faire un rang raccourcis sur les 30 premières mailles tous les 8 rangs des motifs A1 et A2 ? Cela ne tombe donc pas toujours au même endroit sur le motif ? Merci pour votre aide. Claire
02.08.2024 - 18:09DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Claire, il n'y a pas de rangs raccourcis dans ce modèle, pouvez-vous nous reposer votre question sur le modèle concerné? Nous pourrons ainsi vérifier ensemble. Merci pour votre compréhension.
05.08.2024 - 07:18Satu Penttilä wrote:
Hei, ostin luonnonvalkoista ja v. Punaista Brushed Alpaca Silk lankaa, nämä ovat aivan erilaiset. Vaaleassa on hennompi ja pidempi nukka ja pehmeämpi. V. Pun sellaisessa klimpissä hötöt päällä.... Vaalea siis paljon kivemman näköinen...
12.12.2021 - 21:09Satu wrote:
Hei, neulotaanko hiha nii kuin videossa, tai otetaanko silmukat lisäyksistä kainalosta...?
19.11.2021 - 21:28DROPS Design answered:
Hei, hihan silmukat ovat apulangalla, ja loput silmukat poimitaan kainaloon luoduista silmukoista.
08.12.2021 - 17:03Gabriela Jorajuria wrote:
Nunca teji de arriba para abajo y no se con cuantos puntos empezar y como seguir
14.04.2019 - 23:23DROPS Design answered:
Hola Gabriela. Primero tienes que elegir tu talla según el diagrama con las medidas bajo el patrón, y hacer una muestra de la tensión del tejido. Aquí tienes un vídeo explicativo:
17.10.2019 - 19:08Yvonne wrote:
De 27 cm waarop het meerderen plaatsvindt, is dat gemeten vanaf de markeerdraad die het lijf markeert?
14.02.2019 - 21:08DROPS Design answered:
Dag Yvonne,
Dit is vanaf de markeerdraad op het lijf, want er staat aan het begin van de paragraaf van het lijf 'meet nu het werk vanaf hier'.
28.02.2019 - 11:34Cantin Marie-Anne wrote:
Bonjour je souhaite me faire ce joli pull mais l'explication des fins de manche me laisse perplexe ...Tricoter 1 tour en même temps, en ajustant le nombre de mailles à 48-52 autrement dit il faut augmenter ?
31.08.2018 - 10:55DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Marie-Anne! Augmenter ou diminuer, cela depend de la taille que vous tricotez. Bon tricot!
31.08.2018 - 12:08Monica Lien Kjønsø wrote:
Stemmer det at man skal strikke til arbeidet er 27 cm langt før man deler? Blir ikke genseren veldig kort da? Eller er det 27 cm. fra ermehullet?
27.06.2018 - 15:59DROPS Design answered:
Hei Monica, Bolen er målt fra merket som er satt etter bærestykket, (så fra armhullene som du sier) og 27 cm er etter delingen ikke før. God fornøyelse!
29.06.2018 - 06:25Mercédès wrote:
Bonjour, j'ai bien l'habitude d'imprimer les explications de vos modèles. Mais malheureusement pour celui-ci, seulement la première page est imprimable. Pouvez-vous rectifier ce défaut. Merci
29.05.2018 - 10:56DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mercédès, nous venons d'effectuer une impression test et avons pu imprimer toutes les pages. Pensez à bien vérifier les paramètres de votre imprimantes et ceux de l'impression pour bien imprimer toutes les pages. Bon tricot!
29.05.2018 - 11:28Sabine William wrote:
Super Anleitung, Stricken macht Spaß und ist auch für Anfänger leicht zu bewältigen. Leider ist am Ende ein “Umklappen“ des Abschlussrandes recht ärgerlich, andererseits ist mir für dieses Problem auch keine Lösung eingefallen.
19.09.2017 - 18:52Greta Olaussen wrote:
Feil i oppskrifta "når arbeide måler 26 cm del" Enten er cm feil, eller så mangler det noe her(?)
06.06.2017 - 13:48