DROPS 66-10
Sizes: Small - Medium - Large
Finished measurements:
Bust: 108-116-124 cm [42.5" - 45-⅝" - 48-⅞"]
Hem: 128-136-144 cm [50-⅜" - 53.5" - 56.75"]

Materials: DROPS VIENNA from Garnstudio
90% mohair, 10% polyester, 50 g./95 m./103 yards
600-650-700 g. col. no. 19, dark grey-blue.
and use: DROPS KARISMA ULL-TWEED from Garnstudio
100% wool, 50 g./110 m./120 yards
550-600-650 g. col. no. 02, brown.

Alternate yarns for Ull-Tweed:
* DROPS KARISMA SUPERWASH, 100% superwash wool, 50 g/110 m/120 yards
* DROPS MUSKAT, 100% mercerized Egyptian cotton,
50 g./100 m./109 yards
* DROPS BOMULL-LIN, 53% Egyptian cotton, 47% linen, 50 g./85 m./93 yds

7 DROPS Duffel button, nr 520

DROPS 8 mm [US 11] circular needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.


Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Gauge: 10 sts x 14 rows with 1 strand Vienna and 1 strand Ull-Tweed in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm [4" x 4"].

Pattern: See charts. The pattern is seen from the right side.

Garter st, when knitting flat: Knit all sts, all rows.

Buttonhole: for buttonhole, bind off the third st from center front, cast on 1 new st over the bound off st on the next row. Make buttonholes when the piece measures 40-45-50 cm [15.75" - 17.75" - 19.75"], 53-58-63 cm [20-⅞" - 22-⅞" - 24.75"], 65-70-75 cm [25-⅝" - 27-⅝" - 29.5"], 78-83-88 cm [30.75" - 32-⅝" - 34-⅝"], 90-95-100 cm [35⅜" - 37-⅜" - 39-⅜"], 103-108-113 cm [40.5" - 42.5" - 44.5"] and 115-120-125 cm [45.25" - 47.25" - 49.25"].

Knitting tip: The measurements on the schematic refer to the measurements in the written pattern, measured when piece is lying flat. Because of the weight of the garment, it will stretch approx. 15 cm [5-⅞"] longer when worn or hanging.

Body: Cast on 138-146-154 sts (including 5 edge st at each side for button bands) with 1 strand Vienna and 1 strand Ull-Tweed. Knit 2 rows garter st, increasing 16 sts evenly distributed across the second row = 154-162-170 sts.
On the next row, establish pattern as follows: 5 sts garter st (button band), 7-8-9 sts Pattern 1, 14-14-14 sts Pattern 2, 15-16-17 sts Pattern 1, put in 1 marker (the side), 15-16-17 sts Pattern 1, 14-14-14 sts Pattern 3, 14-16-18 sts Pattern 1, 14-14-14 sts Pattern 2, 15-16-17 sts Pattern 1, put in 1 marker (the side), 15-16-17 sts Pattern 1, 14-14-14 sts Pattern 3, 7-8-9 sts Pattern 1, 5 sts garter st (button band). Work in pattern as established.
When the piece measures 20-20-20 cm [7-⅞"] dec 1 st at each side of each marker (dec 4 sts total) = 150-158-166 sts. Repeat decreases every 10-11-12 cm [4" - 4-⅜" - 4.75"] a total of 5-5-5 times = 134-142-150 sts.
When the piece measures 72-76-81 cm [28.25" - 29-⅞" - 31-⅞"] put 4 sts at each side on a stitch holder for armhole (2 sts each side of the marker) = 34-36-38 sts on each front and 58-62-66 sts on back. Put aside and knit the sleeves.

Sleeve (knit flat): The bottom 10 cm [4"] on sleeves folds back for a cuff. Cast on 30-32-34 sts and knit 2 rows garter st. Knit Pattern 1 over all sts. When the piece measures 20-20-20 cm [7-⅞"] inc 1 st at each side 8-8-8 times every 4-4-4 cm [1.5"] = 46-48-50 sts. When the piece measures 54-54-55 cm [21.25" - 21.25" - 21-⅝"] bind off 3 sts at each side = 40-42-44 sts.

Yoke: Put the sleeves in on the same circular needles as the body, above the sts on a st holder for armhole = 206-218-230 sts on needles. Put 1 marker at each transition between the sleeve and body = 4 markers. Continue with pattern over all sts and shape raglan.

Raglan shaping: Read this entire section before knitting. There are 8 decs per row. Dec 1 st each side of each markers 13-13-12 times every other row, then 6-7-9 times every row. A total of 152-160-168 sts are decreased.
Dec as follows on right side: before the marker: K 2 tog. After the marker: slip 1, K 1, psso.
Dec as follows on wrong side: before the marker: P 2 tog. After the marker: slip 2 sts off needle, put them back onto left needle twisted (one by one), then P 2 tog into the back of the sts.
At the same time: When the piece measures 89-94-99 cm [35" - 37" - 39"] put the 5 button band sts at each side (center front) on a st holder for the neck (the remaining buttonholes are made on the collar). Continue decreasing for the neck every other row: 2 sts 2-2-2 times, 1 st 2-2-2 times. After all raglan and neck shaping is complete there are 32-36-40 sts on needles.

Collar: Pick up 54-62 sts around the neck (including sts from st holders and sts remaining on needles) on circular needles with 1 strand Vienna and 1 strand Ull-Tweed. Knit Pattern 1, but the keep the 5 button band sts at each side in garter st. Remember to make the remaining buttonholes. When the collar measures 10 cm [4"] knit 2 rows garter st, increasing 6-6-6 sts evenly distributed on the second row (don’t increase over button bands). Continue in Pattern 1 until collar measures 15 cm [5-⅞"] - measured from garter st, then bind off all sts.

Assembly: Sew sleeve seams and sew the opening under the sleeve.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = Knit
symbols = Purl
symbols = put 2 sts on st holder in back of work, K 2, K 2 from st holder.
symbols = put 2 sts on st holder in front of work, K 2, K 2 from st holder.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (8)

country flag Jane Furnival wrote:

How do I finish the 4 sts at each side on a stitch holder for armhole?

05.01.2024 - 15:40

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jane, you can bind them off but you don't need to; you simply pick up the stitches when sewing and sew these together with the stitches bound-off on the sleeve. This is to avoid a chunky seam. Happy knitting!

07.01.2024 - 23:18

country flag Christine wrote:

Dos/Devant, dans la première étape : où est le deuxième marqueur ? On dirait qu'il manque des M1 ou autres : je compte 116 m pour la taille M alors qu'il devrait y en avoir 162. Et puis on ne voit à quoi ressemble le col sur la photo, vous n'en avez pas une autre ? Merci

04.12.2022 - 20:05

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Christine, il manquait effectivement une partie des mailles sur ce rang, correction faite, merci. Le col est un long col boutonné (cf emplacement des boutonnières) - nous n'avons pas d'autres photos. Bon tricot!

06.12.2022 - 11:41

country flag Dorthe Flammild wrote:

Jeg vil gerne have anbefalet garn og mængde til denne opskrift - men enkelttrådet garn. I har tidligere hjulpet mig med hvordan jeg skulle finde andet garn ved hjælp af omregner, men jeg vil gerne nøjes med ET garn. På forhånd tak - Dorthe

20.04.2022 - 18:29

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Dorthe, du kan strikke den i en tråd DROPS Snow, da skal du bruge ca 23 nøgler i Small og vil få nogenlunde samme udtryk. Du kan også strikke den i en tråd DROPS Wish som er lettere (udtrykket vil blive lettere) og da skal du bruge ca 16 nøgler i Small. God fornøjelse!

21.04.2022 - 15:43

country flag Dorthe Flammild wrote:

Begge Garner til nævnte opskrift (66-10) er udgået, så jeg vil gerne høre hvilket garn I så vil anbefale. Evt bare 1 garn, og hvor meget der skal påregnes at skulle bruges. Jeg synes at det er svært at bruge omregneren, når der i opskriften bruges 2 Garner. På forhånd mange tak for hjælpen - mange hilsner Dorthe Flammild

03.04.2022 - 09:14

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Dorthe. I denne oppskriften brukes det 2 kvaliteter. Når du skal bruke omregneren, regner du om 1 kvalitet av gangen. F.eks om du fyller inn garnmengden i str. S og DROPS Vienna 600 gram 1 tråd, så får du opp DROPS Melody (1 tråd) og 408 gram. Deretter fyller du inn neste garn DROPS Ull-Tweed 550 g, da får du opp mange alternativer, f.eks Soft Tweed 466 ,gram (1 tråd). Så i str. S kan du bruke 450 gram DROPS Melody og 500 gram DROPS Soft-Tweed. mvh DROPS Design

04.04.2022 - 15:52

country flag Michelle wrote:

Hi, can i use wish yarn for this pattern? If so, can you help with the amount of yarn that's needed and the corresponding needle sizes?

18.11.2021 - 16:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Michelle, yes, you should be able to use DROPS wish, as long as you maintain the gauge of the pattern, with needles size US 11 (as in this pattern). You will need the same yardage as Karisma, so you will need more than 1 kg, even for the smallest size. Happy knitting!

21.11.2021 - 19:28

country flag Erzsebet Kho-Brouwer wrote:

Hallo, ik snap iets niet aan de mouwen. Waar laat ik de 4 steken van de hulpnaald? Dat is mij niet duidelijk

15.09.2018 - 22:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Erzsebet Kho-Brouwer, Het is inderdaad niet duidelijk aangegeven wat je daarmee moet doen. Je kunt ze gewoon op de hulpdraad laten staan tot het werk klaar is en bij de afwerking, wanneer je de opening onder de mouwen dichtnaait (dus, zeg maar de oksel) de steken vast naaien. (In de nieuwe patronen kant je de steken af in plaats van op een hulpdraad te zetten.)

17.09.2018 - 12:36

country flag Kerstin Wiens wrote:

Ich möchte gerne diesen Mantel nachstricken. Leider sind die Garne nicht mehr erhältlich. Auch bei den von Ihnen angegebenen Alternativen sieht es schlecht aus. Haben Sie noch andere Garnalternativen?

18.08.2015 - 10:35

DROPS Design answered:

Vienna (Garngruppe D) können Sie durch 3 Fäden der Garngruppe A ersetzen, hier würde sich für den Flauschcharakter Kid-Silk anbieten. Anstelle von Ull-Tweed können Sie eine der drei Wollgarne aus Gruppe B verwenden (Lima, Karisma oder Merino Extra Fine). Sie müssen anhand der Originalgarne die gesamte Lauflänge für Ihre Größe errechnen (Vienna 50 g = 95 m und Ull-Tweed 50 g = 110 m). Wenn Sie Kid-Silk (25 g = 200 m, d.h. 50 g = 400 m) 3-fach verwenden, müssen Sie die Lauflänge mit 3 multiplizieren. Beachten Sie, dass es wichtig ist, die Maschenprobe einzuhalten.

01.09.2015 - 23:17

country flag Nisse wrote:

Underbar! Men kör med dubbel vienna istället.

04.07.2011 - 19:12