DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 36.40$. Read more.

Honey Blossom Cardigan

Knitted jacket with lace pattern and lace edge, worked top down with ¾ length sleeves in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 176-9
DROPS Design: Pattern no. me-100
Yarn group B
----------------------------------------------------------
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
400-450-500-550-600-650 g color 24, light yellow

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 – or the needles required to get 21 stitches and 28 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.
PEARL BUTTON (arched, white) NO 521: 6-6- 6-7- 7-7 pieces.

-------------------------------------------------------

Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 36.40$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Work 2 rows knit.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.7. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern seen from the right side. A.1 is the left band and A.3 is the right band.

RAGLAN:
SLEEVE:
Increases on the sleeve are part of diagrams A.2, A.4 and A.6. Increase 2 stitches on each sleeve every 2nd row, purl the yarn overs on the next row, there will be holes.

BODY:
Increase 2 stitches on the back piece and 1 stitch on each front piece as follows:
ON EACH ROW:
Increase as follows from the right side: Start 2 stitches before A.2: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2, work A.2, knit 2, make 1 yarn over. Repeat before and after the next A.2. Purl the yarn overs on next row, there will be holes.
Increase as follows from the wrong side: Start 2 stitches before A.2: Make 1 yarn over, purl 2, work A.2, purl 2, make 1 yarn over. Repeat before and after the next A.2. Knit the yarn overs on next row, there will be holes.

ON EVERY 2ND ROW:
Increase as follows from the right side: Start 2 stitches before A.2: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2, work A.2, knit 2, make 1 yarn over. Repeat before and after the next A.2. Purl the yarn overs on next row, there will be holes.

ON EVERY 4TH ROW:
ROW 1 (= from the right side): Start 2 stitches before A.2: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2, work A.2, knit 2, make 1 yarn over. Repeat before and after the next A.2.
ROW 2 (= from the wrong side): Purl the yarn overs, there will be holes.
ROW 3 (= from the right side): Start 4 stitches before A.2: Knit 2 together, make 1 yarn over, knit 2, work A.2, knit 2, make 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the stitch that was knitted – there are no increases, but the row of holes continues as before. Repeat before and after the next A.2.
ROW 4 (= from the wrong side): Purl the yarn overs, there will be holes.

INCREASE TIP:
Start 1 stitch before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (the marker thread sits between theses stitches), make 1 yarn over. Purl the yarn overs twisted on next row.

DECREASE TIP:
Start 3 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (the marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slip stitch over the stitch that was knitted. The stitches that do not fit the pattern mid under sleeve are worked in stockinette stitch.
----------------------------------------------------------

JACKET:
The piece is worked back and forth on a circular needle from mid front, top downwards. Cast on 110-114-118-122-126-130 stitches (including 11 band stitches in each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and Merino Extra Fine. Work 2 RIDGES – see description above, on the last row of the ridges increase 20 stitches evenly along the row = 130-134-138-142-146-150 stitches. Continue to work as follows – from the right side: Work A.1 (= 11 stitches ), 16-17-18-19-20-21 stitches stockinette stitch, 1 yarn over, 1 stitch stockinette stitch (= left front piece), A.2 (= 17 stitches) (= left sleeve), 1 stitch stockinette stitch, 1 yarn over, 38-40-42-44-46-48 stitches stockinette stitch, 1 yarn over, 1 stitch stockinette stitch ( = back piece), A.2 (= right sleeve), 1 stitch stockinette stitch, 1 yarn over, 16-17-18-19-20-21 stitches stockinette stitch, A.3 (= 11 stitches) (= right front piece). The first increase to RAGLAN is now complete. Continue upwards with this division of pattern and stockinette stitch. Increase to raglan as described above. On the sleeve increase every 2nd row 22-26-29-31-32-33 times, on the body increase every row 0-0-0-0-0-6 times, then every 2nd row 14-16-17-25-32-30 times, and finally every 4th row 4-5-6-3-0-0 times.

NOTE! When A.2 is finished, continue working as follows (across the stitches on the sleeves): A.4 (= 8 stitches), A.5 (= 12 stitches), A.6 (= 7 stitches). When A.4 to A.6 are worked 1 time in height work as follows: A.4, A.5 across the next 36 stitches (= 3 repeats), A.6. Every time A.4, A.5 and A.6 are worked one time in height continue with 2 more repeats of A.5 between A.4 and A.6. Finish A.4, A.5 and A.6 when you have increased in total 22-26-29-31-32-33 times on the sleeves and in total 18-21-23-28-32-36 times on each front piece/back piece.

After all the increases, there are 61-69-75-79-81-83 stitches on each sleeve, 76-84-90-102-112-122 stitches on the back piece and 46-50-53-59-64-69 stitches on each front piece= 290-322-346-378-402-426 stitches in total. The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side:

Work 46-50-53-59-64-69 stitches (= right front piece), place the next 61-69-75-79-81-83 stitches on a thread (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches, work the next 76-84-90-102-112-122 stitches (= back piece), place the next 61-69-75-79-81-83 stitches on a thread (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches, work the last 46-50-53-59-64-69 stitches (= left front piece).

BODY:
There are now 184-200-216-240-264-288 stitches on the body. Continue with A.1, stockinette stitch and A.3 as before. Insert a marker thread in each side, in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches which were cast on. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE. When the piece measures 3 cm / 1'' increase 1 stitch on each side of each marker thread (= 4 stitches increased), increase every 7 cm / 2¾'' in total 4 times – READ INCREASE TIP = 200-216-232-256-280-304 stitches. When the piece measures 27-26-26-26-27-29 cm / 10½"-10 1/4"-10 1/4"-10 1/4"-10½"-11½" work A.7 with A.1 and A.3 in each side, then cast/bind off. The piece measures approx. 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm / 19 3/4''-20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8'' from the cast-on edge.

SLEEVE:
Place the stitches from the thread back on double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches which were cast on under the sleeve = 69-77-85-89-93-97 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the new stitches = mid undersleeve. Continue with A.5, the stitches which do not fit the pattern mid under sleeve are worked in stockinette stitch. Continue this pattern. When the piece measures 3-3-3-5-5-5 cm / 1"-1"-1"-2"-2"-2" decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread, decrease every 3-2-1½-1½-1-1 cm / 1"-3/4"-½"-½"-3/8"-3/8" in total 9-12-15-16-17-18 times – READ DECREASE TIP = 51-53-55-57-59-61 stitches. When the piece measures 33-30-29-28-28-28 cm / 13"-11 3/4"-11½"-11"-11"-11" work A.7 across all the stitches. Bind off when A.7 has been worked 1 time in height, the sleeve measures approx. 36-33-32-31-31-31 cm / 14 1/4"-13"-12½"-12 1/4"-12 1/4"-12 1/4". Work the other sleeve the same way.

Place 6-6- 6-7- 7-7 buttons evenly distributed on left front band and sew them on. There are no buttonholes, use the holes in the
pattern on right front band.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 15.09.2017
JACKET:...On the sleeve increase every 2nd row 22-26-29-31-32-33 times, on the body increase every row 0-0-0-0-0-6 times, then every 2nd row 14-16-17-25-32-30 times, and finally every 4th row 4-5-6-3-0-0 times.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = knit 2 together (from the right side and the wrong side)
symbols = 1 yarn over between 2 stitches
symbols = 1 double yarn over between 2 stitches, on the next row work the first yarn over in knit and the second yarn over is dropped
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
symbols = bind off 1 stitch
symbols = knit 2 stitches in 1 stitch (from the right side and the wrong side)
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 176-9

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (27)

country flag Els Van Zantvliet wrote:

Bij A1 en A3 staan in de teruggaande naalden bolletjes: 2 steken recht in een steek. Hoe doe ik dat? Ik kon geen filmpje vinden. Alvast bedankt. Groetjes Els

26.05.2022 - 09:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Els,

Je kan 1 steek in de voorste lus van de steek breien en 1 steek in de achterste lus van de steek. Ik kon inderdaad ook geen video vinden. Je zou deze video kunnen bekijken, waarbij je de omslag achterwege laat.

28.05.2022 - 18:59

country flag Francisca Albert wrote:

Hola Estoy haciendo un tejido donde el diagrama muestra unos puntos que salen hacia afuera Como los interpreto? Es mi primer tejido con Ustedes

06.02.2021 - 00:03

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Francisca, esto significa que hay mas puntos en algunas filas en el diagrama y menos en otro diagrama (para compensar el numero de puntos). Trabaja como antes y repite los diagramas segun el patron. Buen trabajo!

11.02.2021 - 08:29

country flag Christine Buberl wrote:

Ich finde in der Anleitung keine Angabe über die Knopflöcher. Wie und in welchem Abstand werden sie gemacht? Danke für die Antwort!

20.07.2020 - 21:56

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Buberl, der Hinweis wurde am Ende der Anleitung nach den Ärmeln hinzugefügt. Es werden keine Knopflöcher gearbeitet, sondern die Knöpfe werden durch die Muster-Löcher zugeknöpft. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

21.07.2020 - 08:58

country flag Ana wrote:

En primer lugar agradeceros los patrones gratuitos, ya he hecho varios con distintas calidades, me encantan vuestras lanas, la relación precio y calidad muy buenas. El modelo es precioso, comencé a realizarlo con Puna, pero me han parecido las explicaciones muy enrevesadas, he desistido, haré otro que me resulte más sencillo de entender. De todas formas, muchas gracias por vuestro trabajo.

17.02.2019 - 22:23

country flag Sonia wrote:

Hola, de verdad que adoro los patrones y agradezco que sean gratuitos pero están muy regular explicados. Se necesitan más comas y menos resumen. Hay muchas cosas que hay que adivinar. Y creo que no soy la única que piensa eso. Sólo hay que dar un repaso a los comentarios. Es genial tener patrones gratuitos, pero de qué sirven si no se pueden tejer.

06.10.2018 - 23:40

country flag Izabela wrote:

Czy w schemacie A.1 i A.3 są podane rzędy po kolei czy tylko nieparzyste

17.02.2018 - 12:44

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Izabelo, są podane wszystkie rzędy po kolei. Miłej robótki!

18.02.2018 - 22:15

country flag Looten wrote:

Bonjour, Pouvez-vous me donner la légende des diagrammes svp ? Elle ne s'affiche pas correctement sur mon ordinateur. A la place j'ai des points d'interrogation. Merci.

20.01.2018 - 07:49

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Looten, la légende des diagrammes figure bien sur chaque symbole, vérifiez les paramètres de votre navigateur (mise à jour etc...), elle devrait s'afficher. Bon tricot!

22.01.2018 - 09:06

country flag Valentina wrote:

Buongiorno desidero sapere se è possibile avere le spiegazioni per il modello 'Honey blossom cardigan' DRPS 176-9 coi ferri normali e non con i ferri circolari. Grazie e saluti valentina

24.09.2017 - 15:57

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Valentina, questo modello è un cardigan, quindi viene lavorato avanti e indietro sui ferri: può utilizzare i ferri dritti seguendo le stesse istruzioni. Buon lavoro!

24.09.2017 - 18:25

country flag Anette Ulriksen Thune wrote:

Under jakken i første afsnit, næstsidste linje står der: derefter på hver 2.pind 14-16-17-25-30 gange. Er det rigtig for alle andre steder er det en række på 6 tal

27.08.2017 - 20:30

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anette, du har ret, her skal der også være 6 størrelser. Vi skal få det rettet og lagt ud på opskriften. Tak for information! :)

05.09.2017 - 15:58

country flag Kirsten Schmidt wrote:

Er der fejl i diagram A1? Vil tro at A1 og A3 skal være ens, blot spejlvendte. Eller skal man strikke 2 sm og slå om både på ret og vrangsiden af A1?

06.06.2017 - 22:59

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Kirsten, du skal følge diagrammet, så vil du se at det bliver ens i begge sider mod midt foran. God fornøjelse!

09.06.2017 - 15:22