DROPS / 175 / 2

Driftwood by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket in garter stitch with stripes and hood in DROPS Melody. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern ml-020
Yarn group D or A + A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL - read MEASURING TIP.
Materials:
DROPS MELODY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group D)
300-300-350-400-400-450 g colour 01, off white
100-150-150-150-150-200 g colour 09, light sea green

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 9 mm – or size needed to get 10 stitches and 18 rows in garter stitch = width 10 cm and height 10 cm.
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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

71% Alpaca, 25% Wool, 4% Polyamide
from 2.45 £ /50g
DROPS Melody uni colour DROPS Melody uni colour 2.45 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

STRIPES:
See diagram A.1. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side. Choose diagram for your size.

MEASURING TIP:
All length measurements are done when piece is held up, otherwise the jacket will be longer than measurements in chart when worn. This is important because the texture will make the garment longer.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease inside 3 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side by knitting 2 stitches together. All decreases are done from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1 (applies to sleeves):
Increase 1 stitch inside 2 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side. Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on next row knit yarn over twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2:
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 56 stitches), minus 16 band stitches in each side and divide the remaining stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 24) = 1.6. In this example increase after alternately approx. every and every other stitch. Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on next row knit yarn over twisted to avoid holes.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle in parts and sewn together when finished.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 54-58-62-68-74-78 stitches on circular needle size 9 mm with 2 strands light sea green. Remove one strand and work in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 14-15-16-17-18-19 cm - READ MEASURING TIP, work STRIPES as shown in A.1. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 24 cm in all sizes, decrease 1 stitch in each side - READ DECREASE TIP (= 2 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 7-7-7-8-8-8 cm 6 times in total in each side = 42-46-50-56-62-66 stitches. When diagram A.1 has been worked, continue with off white until finished measurements. When piece measures 63-65-67-69-71-73 cm - remember MEASURING TIP, cast off for armholes at the beginning of every row in each side as follows: 3 stitches 0-0-1-1-1-1 time, 2 stitches 1-1-0-1-2-2 times and 1 stitch 1-2-2-3-3-4 times = 36-38-40-40-42-44 stitches. Continue to work until piece measures 81-84-87-90-93-96 cm. Now cast off the middle 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Cast off 1 stitch on next row from neck = 13-14-14-14-14-15 stitches remain on the shoulder. Work until piece measures 83-86-89-92-95-98 cm – remember MEASURING TIP and cast off with 2 strands off white (this is done to avoid a tight cast-off edge). Work the other shoulder the same way.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 43-45-47-50-53-55 stitches (including 16 band stitches towards mid front) on circular needle size 9 mm with 2 strands light sea green. Remove one strand and work in garter stitch. When piece measures 14-15-16-17-18-19 cm, work stripes as shown in A.1 the same way as on back piece. When piece measures 24 cm in all sizes, begin decrease in the side and decrease the same way as on back piece = 37-39-41-44-47-49 stitches. When piece measures 63-65-67-69-71-73 cm, cast off for armholes at the beginning of every row the same way as on back piece = 34-35-36-36-37-38 stitches. When piece measures 77-80-83-86-89-92 cm, slip the outermost 17-17-18-18-19-19 stitches towards mid front on 1 stitch holder for neck (work them before slipping them on stitch holder to avoid cutting the yarn). Continue to cast off for neck at beginning of every row from neck as follows: 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 2 times = 13-14-14-14-14-15 stitches remain for shoulder. Work until piece measures 83-86-89-92-95-98 cm – remember MEASURING TIP and cast off with 2 strands off white.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as right front piece but with decreases in the opposite side.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 20-22-22-24-24-26 stitches on circular needle size 9 mm with 2 strands off white. Remove one strand and work in garter stitch back and forth. When piece measures 10 cm, increase 1 stitch in each side - READ INCREASE TIP-1! Increase like this every 5-5-4-3½-3-3 cm 8-8-9-10-11-11 times in total = 36-38-40-44-46-48 stitches. When piece measures 47-47-46-45-44-43 cm, cast off for sleeve cap at beginning of every row in each side as follows: 3 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 1-1-2-2-2-2 times and 1 stitch 3-3-3-5-6-7 times. Then cast off 2 stitches at beginning of every row in each side until piece measures 54-54-54-55-55-55 cm. Cast off 3 stitches at beginning of the next 2 rows before loosely casting off the remaining stitches with 2 strands off white. Entire sleeve measures approx. 55-55-55-56-56-56 cm from top and down. Knit another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves. Sew underarm seams and side seams in one - sew in outer loops of edge stitches to avoid a chunky seam, but leave approx. 20 cm at the bottom of each side of front and back piece for vents.

HOOD:
Pick up from right side approx. 56 to 68 stitches around the neck (including stitches on stitch holders at the front) on circular needle size 9 mm with off white. Work in garter stitch back and forth and increase AT THE SAME TIME evenly to 80-82-84-86-88-90 stitches on first row – READ INCREASE TIP-2 (do not increase over the outermost 16 stitches in each side). When hood measures 35-35-36-36-37-37 cm, loosely cast off with 2 strands off white.
Place hood double and sew together at the top with grafting/kitchener stitches.

TIES:
The jacket has 4 ties, 2 ties in 2 strands off white and 2 strands in 1 strand off white + 1 strand light sea green.
1 tie = cut 2 strand of approx. 2.8 meters. Twine the strands tog until they resist, fold the strands double so that they twine. Tie a knot in each end (string should be approx. 1 meter when finished, cut it to correct length if needed).
Fasten 1 tie in off white + light sea green on the outside on the left side of jacket approx. 2 cm below armhole (try the jacket on and adjust placement of string). The other tie with off white + light sea green should be fastened to the edge of right front piece approx. 22-23-24-25-26-27 cm from shoulder and down. Fasten 1 tie in off white approx. 2 cm below armhole on the inside of jacket in right side. The other tie in off white should be fastened at the other at the edge of left front piece approx. 22-23-24-25-26-27 cm from shoulder and down.

Diagram

= knit from right side with off white
= knit from wrong side with off white
= knit from right side with light sea green
= knit from wrong side with light sea green


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 175-2) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (27)

Ruth 09.07.2019 - 09:43:

Das Melody Garn fusselt sehr stark, gibt es da einen Trick um das zu reduzieren?

DROPS Design 09.07.2019 kl. 13:45:

Liebe Ruth, hier finden Sie einige Tipps. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Ruth 09.07.2019 - 09:42:

Hallo, ich habe die Jacke gestrickt und finde sie super gemütlich! Allerdings fusselt das Garn sehr sehr stark. Gibt es dafür eine Lösung? Viele Grüße Ruth

Fi 25.04.2019 - 09:56:

How many balls of each colour do I need to make the largest size Thanks

DROPS Design 25.04.2019 kl. 09:58:

Dear Fi, you will find the required total amount of each colour under the header, ie in size XXXL you require 450 g off white / 50 g a ball Melody = 9 balls off white + 200 g light sea green/50 a ball Melody = 4 balls light sea green. Happy knitting!

Karin 30.01.2019 - 15:41:

Kriebelt/prikt dit garen?

DROPS Design 30.01.2019 kl. 16:08:

Dag Karin,

Ja, hier zit o.a. alpaca in, dus als je gevoelig bent voor 'kriebelen' dan is dit garen minder geschikt/

Karin 27.01.2019 - 20:29:

Kriebelt/prikt dit garen?

Jeannine Van Steenbergen 19.10.2018 - 10:05:

Telpatroon is toch zowel goede als verkeerde kant.

Melanie 17.10.2018 - 18:26:

Hallo liebes Garnstudio-Team! Ich habe eine Frage zum Maschen Stilllegen und Kapuze anstricken. Ich sitze nun an einem der Vorderteile und komme leider einfach nicht weiter. Wenn ich am linken Rand die Abnahme für den Armausschnitt gemacht habe, muss ich dann die (bei mir 18) Maschen vom linken Rand aus stilllegen oder vom rechten Rand aus gesehen? An welcher Stelle beginne ich dann für den Halsausschnitt? Ich würde mich sehr über Eure Hilfe freuen! Vielen Dank! Melanie

DROPS Design 18.10.2018 kl. 09:14:

Liebe Melanie, fur den rechten Vorderteil werden Sie die ersten 18 Maschen der Hinreihe stilllegen (= gegen die Öffnung der Jacke), und für den linken Vorderteil werden Sie die ersten 18 Maschen der Rückreihe stilllegen (= gegen die Öffnung der Jacke). Dann weiter am Anfang der HIn- (= re. Vorderteil) bzw Rückreihe (= li. Vorderteil) die Maschen für den Halsausschnitt abketten. Für die Kapuze nehmen Sie dann die Maschen um den Hals auf: von der rechten Blende bis linken Blende (= Vorderseite). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Mette 08.07.2018 - 10:16:

Hvorfor slår man masker op med to tråde?

DROPS Design 09.07.2018 kl. 08:37:

Hej Mette, man slår op med to tråde for at kanten ikke skal blive for stram. God fornøjelse!

Mary 21.04.2018 - 20:30:

Bonjour, dans l'explication concernant le dos quand on est aux diminutions pour les emmanchures, doit-on respecter les directives concernant les diminutions uniquement sur l'endroit ou les effectuer sur tous les rangs uniquement au début de ceux-ci? D'avance merci pour votre réponse?

DROPS Design 23.04.2018 kl. 09:19:

Bonjour Mary, pour le dos, on rabat les mailles des emmanchures de chaque côté = au début de chaque rang (sur l'endroit et sur l'envers): 0-1 fois 3 m = 0-3 m rabattues de chaque côté, puis 0-1-2 fois 2 m (cf taille) = 0-2-4 m rabattues en plus de chaque côté. Bon tricot!

Madelon De Graaff 25.03.2018 - 22:38:

Do you have the translation of Drops 175-2 in Dutch please?

DROPS Design 04.04.2018 kl. 16:16:

Dag Madelon, De Nederlandse vertaling van dit patroon is er net op gezet. :) Veel breiplezier!

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