DROPS / 175 / 3

Crashing Waves by DROPS Design

Knitted top with raglan and lace pattern, worked top down in DROPS Cotton Light. Sizes S - XXXL.

Tags: lace, raglan, top down, tops,
  • Crashing Waves / DROPS 175-3 - Knitted top with raglan and lace pattern, worked top down in DROPS Cotton Light. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Crashing Waves / DROPS 175-3 - Knitted top with raglan and lace pattern, worked top down in DROPS Cotton Light. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS Design: Pattern no cl-071
Yarn group B
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
300-300-350-350-400-450 g colour 08, ice blue

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 MM – or the size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows stocking stitch or 17 stitches and 28 rows lace pattern on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 1.00 £ /50g
DROPS Cotton Light uni colour DROPS Cotton Light uni colour 1.00 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

See diagrams A.1 to A.8. See arrow for your size in A.1 and A.4.

The top is worked in the round with circular needle, top down. Increase to raglan, the increases are shown in diagrams A.1 and A.3.

Cast on 132 stitches in all sizes with circular needle size 4 mm and Cotton Light. Work 2 RIDGES – see description above, then knit 1 round. Continue working as follows: * A.1 (= 5 stitches), A.2 (= 21 stitches), A.3 (= 7 stitches) *, work from *-* 4 times in total. The first repeat of A.1, A.2 and A.3 = the back piece, the second repeat of A.1, A.2 and A.3 = the sleeve, the third repeat of A.1, A.2 and A.3 = the front piece and the fourth repeat of A.1, A.2 and A.3 = the sleeve. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Continue this pattern until there are 3 rounds left before the round with the arrow – see the arrow for your size! Work as before over the first and then the third repeat of A.1, A.2 and A.3. Over the second and the fourth repeat of A.1, A.2 and A.3 work the next 3 rounds as follows: purl over all stitches, knit over all stitches, purl over all stitches, but continue the increases as in A.1 and A.3. The next round is worked as follows (= the round with the arrow): work the first 55-59-63-67-75-79 stitches (= the back piece) cast off the next 55-59-63-67-75-79 stitches (= second repeat of A.1, A.2 and A.3), work the next 55-59-63-67-75-79 stitches (= the front piece), cast off the last 55-59-63-67-75-79 stitches (= the fourth repeat of A.1, A.2 and A.3).

Continue as follows – start on the round with the arrow for your size: * Work A.4 (= 16-19-20-23-27-28 stitches), A.5 (= 22-20-22-20-20-22 stitches), A.6 (= 17-20-21-24-28-29 stitches), cast on 14-14-20-22-26-30 new stitches *, work from *-* 2 times = 138-146-166-178-202-218 stitches. Work 2 ridges over the new 14-14-20-22-26-30 stitches in each side, continue the pattern over the other stitches as before. NOTE! no stitches are decreased in diagrams A.4, A.5 and A.6. The number of stitches in stocking stitch between the front and back pieces increases while the number of stitches in A.4, A.5 and A.6 decreases. When you have worked 2 ridges over the new stitches, work A.7 over the middle 6 stitches in each side. The increased stitches in A.7 are worked in stocking stitch = 4 increased stitches every 8th round. When A.4, A.5 and A.6 have been worked 1 time in height continue with A.8 over these stitches.

When A.8 is finished in height continue working with stocking stitch over the stitches on the front piece and the back piece, continue with the pattern and increases in A.7 as before. Continue until the piece measures 41-42-43-43-43-43 cm, there are now approx. 190-206-222-238-258-278 stitches on the round. Work 2 ridges over all the stitches, then cast off. The piece measures in total 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm from the shoulder.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 12.09.2019
New chart A.3 (changes in row 29 row).


symbols = knit
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = 1 yarn over between 2 stitches, on the next round knit the yarn over, there will be holes
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 stitches together, pass the slipped stitch over the stitches which were knitted together

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 175-3) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (52)

country flag Mary 03.05.2021 - 08:49:

In section A.5 the pattern states to knit 20 stitches I this section for my size (and lists other #of stitches for other sizes). But this pattern section has 21 stitches and doesn't increase for any size. What am I supposed to do here?

user icon DROPS Design 03.05.2021 kl. 09:47:

Dear Mary, A.5 is worked over 21 stitches but depending on the next row (see size/arrow for your size) after the arrow should be one of those worked over 20 sts in your size (and over 22 sts in some other sizes). Hope this helps, happy knitting!

country flag Isabel 16.03.2021 - 12:27:

Porqué no se ven las fotos ni las fotos del diagrama ? Gr

user icon DROPS Design 16.03.2021 kl. 18:53:

Hola Isabel, el problema ya ha sido resuelto. Buen trabajo!

country flag M Carmen Herranz Gimeno 10.03.2021 - 16:51:

EStá equivocado el patrón 4-5-6. Son dobles eliminaciones. Y los costados, para no menguar el jersey, hay que hacerlos todas las vueltas, no cada 4

country flag Jackie Call 06.01.2021 - 21:35:

I am having problem reading 175-3 pattern. When it says to repeat A1, A2, A3 does that mean the same row? When it says to repeat A1, A2, A3 does it mean to 'continue' with the pattern?

user icon DROPS Design 07.01.2021 kl. 07:44:

Hi Jackie, Yes you continue the A.1 - A.3 patterns in the same order on the round, working them all upwards (so you work all patterns with the same row - row 1, then row 2 etc.). Happy knitting!

country flag Jackie 06.01.2021 - 04:13:

I love this pattern but I am having a hard time following the diagrams. Can I purchase this pattern with the stitches printed out?

user icon DROPS Design 06.01.2021 kl. 08:07:

Dear Jackie, we only have diagrams to this pattern, but this lesson explains how to read knitting diagrams and should help you to follow them. Happy knitting!

country flag Phylis Call 03.10.2020 - 03:20:

I was so disappointed that this pattern was too confusing for me. I am not a visual learner, so I can not follow diagrams very good. Is this pattern written out anywhere?

user icon DROPS Design 05.10.2020 kl. 12:13:

Dear Mrs Call, we only have diagram here, but you will find how to read knitting diagrams here. Happy knitting!

country flag EVELYNE 19.06.2020 - 20:35:

Bonsoir Je fait la taille M Et j'arrive au dos et devant mais quand j'arrive au 3ème en partant de la flèche pour la taille M de A4 A5 ET A6 A LA fin de ma première partie (dos) j'ai des mailles en trop comment dois je procéder au départ pour que je sois pareil que le schéma Merci

user icon DROPS Design 22.06.2020 kl. 07:22:

Bonjour Evelyne, je ne suis pas sûre de comprendre les mailles en trop, quand on tricote les diagrammes A.4-A.6, on diminue le nombre de mailles du point ajouré pour les remplacer par du jersey. Ainsi vous avez A.7 au milieu des côtés, jersey de part et d'autre = avant A.4-A.6 et après A.4-A.6, vérifiez bien votre nombre de mailles dans les diagrammes. Bon tricot!

country flag Cinzia 09.04.2020 - 16:29:

Buongiorno, scusate se vi disturbo ma ho un dubbio. Mi sto preparando a fare questa bellissima canotta e ho visto che è stata fatta una correzione, ma secondo me c'è un errore anche nel diagramma A6 al giro 13, nell'ultima accavallata doppia.Probabilmente mi sbaglio ma vorrei avere la conferma da voi. Grazie mille Cinzia

user icon DROPS Design 09.04.2020 kl. 17:00:

Buongiorno Cinzia. Sì, deve spostare l'ultima accavallata doppia di una maglia a sinistra. Inoltre, alla riga 9, deve aggiungere la maglia gettata dopo la seconda accavallata doppia. Segnaleremo gli errori alla casa madre. Grazie e buon lavoro!

country flag Nancy 28.08.2019 - 21:18:

Bei A3 in Reihe 29 fehlt da nicht am Ende der Reihe 1U 1 abheben 1 re, die abgehobene über die rechts gestrickte? Dann normal zum Ende wie angegeben. Re re re U re. In A1 ist doch Spiegelverkehrt zu A3?!

user icon DROPS Design 12.09.2019 kl. 08:24:

Liebe Nancy, danke für den Hinweis, A.3 wurde korrigiert. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Fabienne Borel 17.08.2019 - 12:47:

Bonjour, juste une question, c'est correct que si je fais la taille M je suis le diagramme jusqu'au rang 22 puis je fais la séparation pour les manches ?

user icon DROPS Design 19.08.2019 kl. 09:30:

Bonjour Mme Borel, vous tricotez jusqu'au 22ème rang sur toutes les mailles puis tricotez celles des manches au point mousse (en commençant par un tour envers) et les autres comme avant et vous rabattez les mailles des manches au 26ème rang. Bon tricot!

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