DROPS Extra / 0-1324

Radiant Darling Cardigan by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket in DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk and DROPS Kid-Silk with raglan and rib, worked top down. Size: S - XXXL.

  • Radiant Darling Cardigan / DROPS Extra 0-1324 - Knitted jacket in DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk and DROPS Kid-Silk with raglan and rib, worked top down. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS design: Pattern no bs-090
Yarn group A + A or C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
250-300-300-350-350-400 g colour no 1306, powder
and use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
100-100-125-125-150-150 g colour no 01, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm) SIZE 4 mm - for rib.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON: Flower (white), NO 600: 8-8-8-9-9-9 pieces
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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
from 4.10 £ /50g
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour 4.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order

75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 3.80 £ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 3.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 3.80 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 35.70£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

INCREASE TIP:
Always inc from RS.
Inc 2 sts before marker as follows: Work until 3 st remains before marker, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO, K 2, marker.
Inc 2 sts after marker as follows: Work until marker, K 2, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO.
Inc 1 sts before marker as follows: Work until 2 sts remain before marker, 1 YO, K 2, marker.
Inc 1 sts after marker as follows: Work until marker, K 2, 1 YO.
P YO twisted on next row, it should not make a hole.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 st before marker as follows: Work until 3 sts remain before marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, K 1, marker. 
Dec 1 st after marker as follows: Work until marker, K 1, K 2 tog. 

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = work until 4 sts remain on needle (seen from RS), make 1 YO, K 2 tog and finish with K 2.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures (from neck):
SIZE S: 2, 9, 16, 24, 32, 40, 48 and 56 cm
SIZE M: 2, 10, 18, 26, 34, 42, 50 and 58 cm
SIZE L: 2, 10, 18, 26, 34, 42, 51 and 60 cm
SIZE XL: 2, 9, 16, 23, 31, 39, 47, 55 and 62 cm
SIZE XXL: 2, 9, 16, 23, 31, 39, 47, 55 and 64 cm
SIZE XXXL: 2, 10, 18, 26, 34, 42, 50, 58 and 66 cm
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth, top down. Cast on 100-104-108-112-116-120 sts (incl 5 band sts in each side of piece) on circular needle size 4 mm with 2 strands BabyAlpaca Silk. Work 5 band sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above - then work rib = K 2/P 2 until 7 sts remain, K 2, finish with 5 band sts in garter st. Dec for BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above - on right band. When rib measures 3 cm (adjust so that next row is worked from WS), switch to 1 strand of each quality. Work 1 row from WS with rib and garter st. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm.

Work as follows from RS: 5 band sts in garter st, stocking st until 5 sts remain, AT THE SAME TIME dec 14-18-18-22-22-26 sts evenly, finish with 5 band sts in garter st = 86-86-90-90-94-94 sts. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION Inc 8-8-16-24-36-40 sts evenly on next row from WS = 94-94-106-114-130-134 sts.

Then insert 4 markers in the piece from RS as follows: 5 band sts in garter st, 16-16-18-20-23-23 sts in stocking st, insert 1st marker (= left front piece), 10-10-12-12-14-16 sts in stocking st, insert 2nd marker (= sleeve), 32-32-36-40-46-46 sts in stocking st, insert 3rd marker (= back piece), 10-10-12-12-14-16 sts in stocking st, insert 4th marker (= sleeve), 16-16-18-20-23-23 sts in stocking st(= right front piece), finish with 5 band sts in garter st. Work band sts in garter st until finished measurements. Work in stocking st AT THE SAME TIME inc for raglan – READ INCREASE TIP - as follows: Inc differently on sleeves and body.

RAGLAN BODY:
Inc before 1st and 3rd marker and after 2nd and 4th marker as follows: Inc 2 sts on every row from RS 2-4-5-7-8-10 times in total, then 1 st on every row from RS 17-16-16-15-15-14 times = 74-80-88-98-108-114 sts on back piece and 42-45-49-54-59-62 sts on each front piece.

RAGLAN SLEEVE:
Inc after 1st and 3rd marker and before 2nd and 4th marker (= 2 sts inc on each sleeve) as follows: Inc 1 st on every row from RS 19-20-21-22-23-24 times in total = 48-50-54-56-60-64 sts on sleeve.

After all inc are done there are 254-270-294-318-346-366 sts on needle.

Work next row as follows: 5 band sts in garter st, 37-40-44-49-54-57 sts in stocking st, slip the next 48-50-54-56-60-64 sts on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8 sts under sleeve, 74-80-88-98-108-114 sts in stocking st, slip the next 48-50-54-56-60-64 sts on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8 sts under sleeve, 37-40-44-49-54-57 sts in stocking st, finish with 5 band sts in garter st = 174-186-202-222-242-254 sts. Insert 1 marker in piece, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE.

BODY:
Work in stocking st with 5 band sts in garter st in each side. REMEMBER BUTTONHOLES! When piece measures 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm, inc 6 sts evenly = 180-192-208-228-248-260 sts. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm. Work 1 round as follows: 5 band sts in garter st, rib = K 2/P 2 until 7 sts remain, finish with K 2 and 5 band sts in garter st. Switch to 2 strands BabyAlpaca Silk. Work rib and garter st until piece measures 38-39-40-41-42-43 cm. Cast off with K over K and P over P over rib sts and K over sts in garter st.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 48-50-54-56-60-64 sts from stitch holder back on double pointed needles size 5 mm. Cast on 8 sts at the end of round = 56-58-62-64-68-72 sts. Insert 1 marker in the middle of these new sts. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. Work in the round in stocking st. When piece measures 3 cm, dec 1 st on each side of marker - READ DECREASE TIP, repeat dec every 4½-4-3½-3-3-2½ cm 8-9-10-11-12-13 more times = 38-38-40-40-42-44 sts. When piece measures 41 cm, inc 2-2-4-4-6-4 sts evenly = 40-40-44-44-48-48 sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work 1 round rib = K 2/P 2. Switch to 2 strands BabyAlpaca Silk and work rib until piece measures 46 cm. Cast off sts with K over K and P over P.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew the buttons on to the left front band.

Diagram

diagram measurements
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-1324) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (10)

country flag Anna 11.04.2021 - 21:57:

Dzien dobry. Co to znaczy ze inaczej dodaje sie oczka na reglan na rekawie a inaczej na przodzie/tyle? Ktory to reglan rekawa a ktory przod/tyl? I co bedzie jesli bede oddawac na reglan tak samo wszedzie? Pozdrawiam Anna

user icon DROPS Design 12.04.2021 kl. 10:19:

Witaj Aniu, oczka na reglan są dodawane w 4 miejscach w przejściach między tyłem/przodami i rękawami. W każdym z tych miejsc są dodawane oczka zgodnie z opisem w części DODAWANIE OCZEK. Przed 1-szym i 3-cim markerem i za 2-gim i 4-tym markerem – są to reglany tyłu i przodu, za 1-szym i 3-cim markerem i przed 2-gim i 4-tym markerem – reglany rękawów. W tym wzorze jest tak, że oczka są dodawane w innej częstotliwości na tyle/przodach, a w innej na rękawach. Najlepiej sobie gdzieś na kartce to zaznaczać, żeby się nie pomylić. Jak będziesz dodawać tak samo wszędzie, to karczek będzie miał inny kształt niż ten we wzorze. Pozdrawiamy!

country flag Francesca Antonelli 29.03.2020 - 21:08:

Buonasera vorrei fare questo modello con cotone Muscad è possibile?

user icon DROPS Design 30.03.2020 kl. 12:53:

Buongiorno Francesca. Muskat è più sottile del filato consigliato nel modello. Se vuole lavorare con il cotone, potrebbe usare il filato Safran (messo doppio), oppure il filato Paris (con 1 capo solo). Verifichi sempre la correttezza del campione. Il suo rivenditore Drops di fiducia è a sua disposizione per aiutarla nella scelta. Buon lavoro!

country flag Francesca Antonelli 30.11.2019 - 22:08:

Buongiorno oleo fare questo cardigan però ho una lana che mi ha regalato mia zia ..come faccio per far combaciare le misure x fare questo modello ? In più è possibile farlo con il collo più alto ?

user icon DROPS Design 30.11.2019 kl. 22:15:

Buonasera Francesca, deve lavorare un campione e controllare che corrisponda a quello indicato. Per le modifiche del collo può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

country flag Ines 28.03.2019 - 11:23:

Witam. Chciałabym wykonać ten model z włóczki Flora. Jak musiałabym przeliczyć dodawanie oczek na reglan? Może jest identyczny model z włóczki grupy A, żeby uniknąć przeliczeń? Z góry dziękuję za odpowiedź.

user icon DROPS Design 28.03.2019 kl. 16:06:

Witaj Ines! Jak będziesz wykonywać sweterek 2 nitkami włóczki DROPS Flora, to otrzymasz A+A=C, dokładnie jak we wzorze. Dla pewności wykonaj próbkę, jak nie będzie 100% zgodna zmień rozmiar drutów na trochę mniejszy/większy. Nic nie trzeba będzie już zmieniać we wzorze. Powodzenia!

country flag Lolih 21.03.2019 - 16:21:

Bonjour Je voudrais me tricoter un gilet avec la laine Merino extra fine MAIS AVEC 2 AIGUILLES . Je ne sais pas tricoter avec les aiguilles en rond et.. je n,ai pas envie de m,y mettre. Est ce quelqu’une pourrait me donner r un modèle à suivre svp ... mil merci......

user icon DROPS Design 22.03.2019 kl. 07:58:

Bonjour Lolih! Comment adapter un modèle sur aiguille circulaire pour des aiguilles droites vous trouverez ICI. Bon tricot!

country flag Annette 06.11.2018 - 17:18:

Liebes Drops Team, es gibt in dieser Anleitung einen Fehler : Muss es nicht heißen 8 M gleichmäßig verteilt abnehmen und dann im Text danach : 42 glatt re (Rückenteil) ??? Oder mache ich einen Denkfehler ? habe schon gerechnet, komme aber auf kein anderes Ergebnis. Und stimmen denn die folgenden Angaben ?? Vielen Dank und liebe Grüße

user icon DROPS Design 07.11.2018 kl. 08:19:

Liebe Annette, leider verstehe ich nicht Ihre Frage - wie weit sind Sie genau? Bei der Verteilung für die Ärmel, schlägt man 8 M über die stillgelegten Maschen (unter jeden Ärmel). Dann werden bei jedem Ärmel auch 8 M angeschlagen - diese 8 M werden dann unter dem Arm später zusammengenäht.

country flag Delavenne Quitterie 09.05.2018 - 13:19:

Bonjour, au niveau des augmentations il est indiqué de tricoter le jeté torse a l'envers au rang suivant, mais je ne comprends pas, s'agit il de tous les jetés ou juste du jeté réalisé 1 maille après le marqueur ? (si c'est pour tous les jetés il n'y a pas de jour, et n'est ce pas ça qui fait le raglan?). en outre, les augmentations se font toujours par rapport au marqueur. Au fur et a mesure des augmentations on ne change pas la place des marqueurs? Merci beaucoup,

user icon DROPS Design 09.05.2018 kl. 14:19:

Bonjour Mme Delavenne, tous les jetés seront tricotés torse à l'envers au rang suivant. On augmente avec des jetés pour le raglan, et une petite démarcation sera visible de chaque côté des 4 m du raglan (= 2 m avant le marqueur et 2 m après le marqueur). Les marqueurs restent bien en place et ne bougent pas. Bon tricot!

country flag Anna 18.03.2017 - 00:29:

Hey! I'm knitting this cardigan in size M. I have a question considering decreases and increases right after finishing the collar rib and after switching to needle size 5 mm. There is told to decrease evenly 18 stitches and during the next row then to increase evenly 8 stitches again. Why is it so? Why can't I just decrease evenly 10 stitches, and that's all, instead of decreasing and immediately increasing stiches back?

user icon DROPS Design 20.03.2017 kl. 08:40:

Dear Anna, you first work 1 dec row then 1 inc row to give the correct shape to the piece, to make it nicer. Happy knitting!

country flag Lizzy 12.01.2017 - 14:16:

Is de raglanmouw nu wel in de tekst gecorrigeerd? Kan ik het patroon / beschrijving nu gewoon volgen?

user icon DROPS Design 12.01.2017 kl. 14:42:

Hoi Lizzy. Waarom? Er zou geen fout in dit patroon moeten zijn?

country flag Denoyer Aurelie 09.01.2017 - 22:48:

Dans les explications il n est pas fait mention du deuxieme fil de qualite kid-silk. est il vraiment necessaire? merci

user icon DROPS Design 10.01.2017 kl. 09:41:

Bonjour Mme Denoyer, on tricote les côtes avec 2 fils Baby Alpaca Silk, puis on continue avec 1 fil de chaque qualité = 1 fil Baby Alpaca Silk + 1 fil Kid-Silk. Bon tricot!

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