DROPS / 171 / 3

Bridget Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket with textured pattern, V-neck and A-shape worked top down in ”Alpaca” and “Kid-Silk”. Size: S - XXXL.

  • Bridget Jacket / DROPS 171-3 - Knitted DROPS jacket with textured pattern, V-neck and A-shape worked top down in ”Alpaca” and “Kid-Silk”. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS design: Pattern no z-766
Yarn group A + A or C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
300-350-400-400-450-500 g color no 9021, fog
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
125-150-150-175-200-200 g color no 07, light steel blue

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm / 16" + 24'' or 32'') SIZE 5 mm/US 8 – or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st with 1 strand of each yarn (= 2 strands ) = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 - for edge in garter st.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 522: 4-4-4-4-5-5 pieces

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Alpaca
from 3.70 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.70 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.90 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.80 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 5.80 $ /25g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 5.80 $ /25g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 51.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

DECREASE TIP-1:
All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows before marker: Beg 2 sts before marker and K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

INCREASE TIP:
All inc are done from RS.
Inc after/before marker by making 1 YO. On next row P YO twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP-2:
Beg 3 sts before marker and K 2 tog, K 2 (marker is between these sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec).

KNITTING TIP:
Because of the shape of the jacket it will be somewhat longer in the sides than mid front/mid back. To avoid this work short rows over middle part as follows:
RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
* Beg from RS and work as before over all sts, turn, tighten yarn and work from WS until A.1, turn, tighten yarn and work from RS as before the rest of row *.
LEFT FRONT PIECE:
* Beg from WS and work as before over all sts, turn, tighten yarn and work from RS as before until A.2, turn, tighten yarn and work from WS as before the rest of row *.
BACK PIECE:
* Beg from RS and work as before until A.2, turn, tighten yarn and work from WS until A.1, turn, tighten yarn and work from RS as before the rest of row *.
ALL PARTS: Repeat from *-* approx. every 7th cm / 2 3/4th inch.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonhole on right band (when garment is worn). Dec for buttonholes at the end of row from RS as follows: Work until 3 sts remain on row, make 1 YO, K 2 tog and K last st. On next round K the YO to make a hole. Dec first buttonhole when 1 cm / 3/8'' has been worked after last inc for V-neck. Then dec the next 3-3-3-3-4-4, approx. 8-8-8-7-7-7 cm / 3"-3"-3"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-2 3/4'' between each buttonhole.
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JACKET:
Work front and back piece back and forth on circular needle in sections.

BACK PIECE:
Beg with right shoulder (when garment is worn), then work left shoulder before casting on sts for neck and continuing over all sts - READ KNITTING TIP.

RIGHT SHOULDER (when garment is worn):
Cast on 17-18-18-19-19-20 sts on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). K 1 row from WS. Work next row as follows from RS: 2 edge sts in GARTER ST – see explanation above (= towards the neck), P 2, inc 1 st in each of the next 3 sts (K 2 in each st), P 2, K 2, P 2, 1-2-2-3-3-4 sts in stockinette st and 3 edge sts in garter st towards armhole = 20-21-21-22-22-23 sts on needle. Work back from WS with garter st over garter st, P over P, K over K. Work next row as follows from RS: 2 edge sts in garter st, work pattern according to diagram A.2 over the next 14 sts, 1-2-2-3-3-4 sts in stockinette st and 3 edge sts in garter st. Continue pattern like this until piece measures 2 cm / 3/4''. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE Beg the inc for neck by casting on 1 new st at the end of first row from WS (work inc st in garter st) = 21-22-22-23-23-24 sts. Put piece aside and work left shoulder.

LEFT SHOULDER (when garment is worn):
Cast on 17-18-18-19-19-20 sts on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). K 1 row from WS. Work next row as follows from RS: 3 edge sts in garter st towards armhole, 1-2-2-3-3-4 sts in stockinette st, P 2, K 2, P 2, inc 1 st in each of the next 3 sts (K 2 in each st), P 2 and 2 edge sts in garter st towards the neck = 20-21-21-22-22-23 sts on needle. Work back from WS with K over K, P over P and garter st over garter st. Work next row as follows from RS: 3 edge sts in garter st, 1-2-2-3-3-4 sts in stockinette st, work pattern according to A.1 over the next 14 sts and finish with 2 edge sts in garter st. Continue pattern like this until piece measures 2 cm / 3/4''. Now beg the inc for neck by casting on new sts for neck at the end of every row from RS as follows: Cast on 1 st 1 time and then 26-26-28-28-30-30 sts 1 time (work the inc sts in garter st) = 47-48-50-51-53-54 sts. Now work left and right shoulder tog for back piece.

BACK PIECE:
Keep sts on left shoulder on needle and continue pattern from RS over sts from right shoulder = 68-70-72-74-76-78 sts on needle. Work next row as follows from WS: 3 edge sts in garter st, P until
A.2, continue A.2 (= 14 sts), K over the next 32-32-34-34-36-36
sts (i.e. sts between A.2 and A.1), continue A.1 (= 14 sts), P until 3 sts remain on needle and finish with 3 edge sts in garter st. Work next row as follows from RS: 3 edge sts in garter st, work in stockinette st until A.1, continue A.1, work A.3 over sts between A.1 and A.2, continue A.2, work in stockinette st until 3 sts remain on needle and finish with 3 edge sts in garter st. Continue pattern like this until piece measures 4 cm / 1½''. Insert 1 marker 1 st before A.1 (seen from RS) and 1 marker after A.1 (= 15 sts between markers), in addition insert 1 marker before A.2 and 1 marker 1 st after A.2 (= 15 sts between markers). Now beg displacement of cables towards mid back as follows (from RS):
DISPLACEMENT IN A.1/A.2:
Inc 1 st before A.1 and dec 1 st after A.1 in addition dec 1 st before A.2 and inc 1 st after A.2 – READ INCREASE TIP and DECREASE TIP-1. Inc and dec like this every 4th-6th-6th-8th-10th-10th row 8-7-7-6-6-6 times in total (work the inc sts in stockinette st).
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 17-17-17-16-14-12 cm / 6 3/4"-6 3/4"-6 3/4"-6 1/4"-5½"-4 3/4", inc for armholes in each side (from RS): Inc 1 st inside 3 edge sts in garter st in each side by making 1 YO. On next row P YO twisted to avoid holes. Inc like this every other row (i.e. on every row from RS) 2-3-5-7-10-13 times in total, then cast on 3-4-5-6-7-8 new sts at the end of the next 2 rows for armholes = 78-84-92-100-110-120 sts on needle.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING! Continue pattern as before but work 1 ridge over the outermost 6-7-8-9-10-11 sts in each side (work the remaining sts as before). NOTE: In size XXL + XXXL continue displacements in A.1/A.2 as before (in size S + M + L + XL displacements are now done if the knitting gauge is kept vertically).
When 1 ridge has been worked over the outermost 6-7-8-9-10-11 sts in each side continue pattern as before, but with 2-2-2-3-3-3 edge sts in garter st in each side until finished measurements.
When displacement is done in all sizes, there are 16-18-20-22-24-24 sts pattern according to A.3 mid back and 15-17-20-22-26-31 sts in stockinette st on inside of 2-2-2-3-3-3 edge sts in garter st in each side.
Continue to work without displacement until piece measures 28-30-32-34-36-38 cm / 11''-11¾''-12½''-13 3/8''-14¼''-15'' from shoulder – adjust so that the next row is worked from RS.
Now beg inc in the sides AT THE SAME TIME the cables will displace towards the sides as follows:
INC IN THE SIDES:
Inc 1 st inside of the outermost 5-5-5-6-6-6 sts in each side by making 1 YO. On next row P YO twisted to avoid holes. Inc like this every 8th row 10 times in total in each side (or desired length – NOTE: All inc are done from RS).
DISPLACEMENT IN A.1/A.2:
Dec 1 st before A.1 and inc 1 st after A.1, inc 1 st before A.2 and dec 1 st after A.2 (work the inc sts in towards the middle in A.3 so that middle part with A.3 get bigger and bigger).
Dec and inc like this every 8th row until finished measurements.

Continue like this until piece measures approx. 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm / 25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8'' from the shoulder and down (adjust so that next row is worked from RS) = approx. 98-104-112-120-130-140 sts on needle. Switch to circular needle 4 and work 3 ridges back and forth over all sts – AT THE SAME TIME on first row dec over each cable by working sts in the cables K tog two by two (= 6 sts dec) = approx. 92-98-106-114-124-134 sts. Switch back to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and bind off (this is done to avoid a tight bind-off edge).

RIGHT FRONT PIECE (when garment is worn):
Beg with edge in garter st that is sewn to neck line at the back of neck. Cast on 5 sts on needle size 4 mm / US 6 with 1 strand Alpaca + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands) and work in garter st back and forth for 9-9-10-10-11-11 cm / 3½"-3½"-4"-4"-4½"-4½", finish with K 1 row from WS and leave sts on needle.

RIGHT SHOULDER - FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 17-18-18-19-19-20 sts on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). K 1 row from WS. Work next row as follows from RS: 3 edge sts in garter st towards armhole, 1-2-2-3-3-4 sts in stockinette st, P 2, K 2, P 2, inc 1 st in each of the next 3 sts, P 2, 2 sts pattern according to diagram A.3 and then the 5 sts in garter st from edge in garter st worked first = 25-26-26-27-27-28 sts on needle. Work back from WS with garter st over garter st, P over P, K over K. Work next row as follows from RS: 3 edge sts in garter st, 1-2-2-3-3-4 sts in stockinette st, work pattern according to A.1 over the next 14 sts, continue A.3 over the next 2 sts and finish with 5 band sts in garter st towards the neck. Continue pattern like this until piece measures 4 cm / 1½''. Insert 1 marker 1 st before A.1 (seen from RS) and 1 marker after A.1 (= 15 sts between markers). Now beg displacement of cable mid front AT THE SAME TIME inc for V-neck inside the 5 band sts mid front:
DISPLACEMENT IN A.1:
Inc 1 st before A.1 and dec 1 st after A.1 – READ INCREASE TIP and DECREASE TIP-1. Inc and dec like this every 4th-6th-6th-8th-10th-10th row 8-7-7-6-6-6 times in total (work the inc sts in stockinette st).
V-NECK: At the same time on 1st row from RS beg inc for V-neck and inc 1 st inside the 5 band sts in garter st by making 1 YO. On next row work YO twisted to avoid holes - work the inc sts in A.3. Inc like this every 4th row a total of 2-2-3-5-6-8 times, and on every other row a total of 12-12-12-10-10-8 times. NOTE: After last inc towards mid front work 1 ridge back and forth only over the 5 band sts (do not work the other sts on needle). Then work as before over all sts again (this is done to make the band fold nicely). REMEMBER BUTTON HOLES ON BAND - see explanation above.
ARMHOLE: at the same time when piece measures 17-17-17-16-14-12 cm / 6 3/4"-6 3/4"-6 3/4"-6 1/4"-5½"-4 3/4'', inc for armhole in the side as on back piece, i.e. inc as follows: Inc 1 st inside 3 edge sts in garter st in the side by making 1 YO. On next row work YO twisted to avoid holes - work inc sts in stockinette st. Inc like this every other row 2-3-5-7-10-13 times in total, then cast on 3-4-5-6-7-8 new sts at the end row from WS.
After all inc for V-neck and armhole are done, there are 44-47-51-55-60-65 sts on needle.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING! Continue pattern as before but work 1 ridge over the outermost 6-7-8-9-10-11 sts in the side towards armhole (work the remaining sts as before). NOTE: In size XXL + XXXL continue displacements in A.1/A.2 as before (in size S + M + L + XL displacements are now done if the knitting gauge is kept vertically).
When 1 ridge has been worked over the outermost 6-7-8-9-10-11 sts in the side continue pattern as before, but with 2-2-2-3-3-3 edge sts in garter st until finished measurements.
When displacement is done in all sizes, there are 8-9-10-11-12-12 sts pattern according to A.3 inside band towards mid front and 15-17-20-22-26-31 sts in stockinette st on inside of 2-2-2-3-3-3 edge sts in garter st in the side.
Continue to work without displacement until piece measures 28-30-32-34-36-38 cm / 11''-11¾''-12½''-13 3/8''-14¼''-15'' from shoulder – adjust so that the next row is worked from RS.
Now beg inc in the side AT THE SAME TIME the cables will displace out towards the side as follows:
INC IN THE SIDE:
Inc 1 st inside of the outermost 5-5-5-6-6-6 sts in the side by making 1 YO. On next row P YO twisted to avoid holes. Inc like this every 8th row 10 times in total (or desired length – NOTE: All inc are done from RS).
DISPLACEMENT IN A.1/A.2:
Dec 1 st before A.1 and inc 1 st after A.1 (work the inc sts towards mid front in A.3 so that middle part with A.3 gets bigger and bigger).
Dec and inc like this every 8th row until finished measurements.

Continue like this until piece measures approx. 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm / 25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8'' from the shoulder and down (adjust so that next row is worked from RS) = approx. 54-57-61-65-70-75 sts on needle. Switch to circular needle 4 and work 3 ridges back and forth over all sts – AT THE SAME TIME on first row dec over cable by working sts in the cable K tog two by two (= 3 sts dec) = approx. 51-54-58-62-67-72 sts on needle. Switch back to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and bind off (this is done to avoid a tight bind-off edge).

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Beg with an edge in garter st as on right front piece. Cast on 5 sts on needle size 4 mm / US 6 and work in garter st back and forth for 10-10-11-11-12-12 cm / 4''-4''-4 3/8''-4 3/8''-4¾''-4¾'', finish after 1 row K from WS, switch to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8.

LEFT SHOULDER - FRONT PIECE:
K the 5 sts in garter st from neck edge and cast in addition on 17-18-18-19-19-20 sts on needle = 22-23-23-24-24-25 sts. K 1 row from WS. Work next row as follows from RS: 5 band sts in garter st, 2 sts pattern according to diagram A.3, P 2, inc 1 st in each of the next 3 sts, P 2, K 2, P 2, 1-2-2-3-3-4 sts in stockinette st and 3 edge sts in garter st towards armhole = 25-26-26-27-27-28 sts on needle. Work back from WS with garter st over garter st, P over P, K over K. Work next row as follows from RS: 5 band sts in garter st, continue A.3 over the next 2 sts, work pattern according to diagram A.2 over the next 14 sts, work 1-2-2-3-3-4 sts in stockinette st and finish with 3 edge sts in garter st towards armhole. Continue pattern like this until piece measures 4 cm / 1½''. Insert 1 marker before A.2 (seen from RS) and 1 marker 1 st after A.1 (= 15 sts between markers). Now beg displacement of cable mid front AT THE SAME TIME inc for V-neck inside the 5 band sts mid front:
DISPLACEMENT IN A.2:
Dec 1 st before A.2 and inc 1 st after A.2 – READ DECREASE TIP and INCREASE TIP-1. Inc and dec like this every 4th-6th-6th-8th-10th-10th row 8-7-7-6-6-6 times in total (work the inc sts in stockinette st).
V-NECK: At the same time on 1st row from RS beg inc for V-neck and inc 1 st inside the 5 band sts in garter st the same way as on right front piece.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 17-17-17-16-14-12 cm / 6 3/4"-6 3/4"-6 3/4"-6 1/4"-5½"-4 3/4", beg inc for armhole in the side and work the rest of left front piece the same way as right front piece but reversed (NOTE: Do not dec for buttonholes on left band).

SLEEVE:
Work back and forth on a short circular needle, top down until sleeve cap is done, then work sleeve in the round on a short circular needle/double pointed needles until finished measurements.
Cast on 24-24-26-24-24-24 sts on a short circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work stockinette st back and forth AT THE SAME TIME cast on new sts for sleeve cap at the end of every row in each side as follows: Cast on 3 sts 1 time in all sizes, 2 sts 2-3-3-3-3-3 times, 1 st 3-3-3-3-5-7 times, 2 sts 2-2-3-3-3-3 times and 3 sts 1-1-1-2-2-2 times = 58-62-68-72-76-80 sts on needle (piece measures approx. 8-9-10-11-13-15 cm / 3"-3½"-4"-4½"-5"-6''). Insert 1 marker thread at beg of row (= mid under sleeve). Then work in stockinette st in the round. When piece measures 2 cm / 3/4'' from marker thread, dec 2 sts mid under sleeve - READ DECREASE TIP-2. Dec a total of 12-13-15-17-18-19 times in Size S: Alternately on every 5th and 6th round, in size M: On every 5th round, in size L: On every 4th round, in size XL: Alternately on every 3rd and 4th round, in size XXL: On every 3rd round and in size XXXL: Alternately on every 2nd and 3rd round = 34-36-38-38-40-42 sts. When piece measures 31-30-30-29-28-26 cm / 12 1/4"-11 3/4"-11 3/4"-11½"-11"-10 1/4" from marker thread (entire sleeve measures approx. 39-39-40-40-41-41 cm / 15 1/4"-15 1/4"-15 3/4"-15 3/4"-16"-16" and dec should be done), K 1 round while inc 26-24-22-22-32-30 sts evenly = 60-60-60-60-72-72 sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 and work pattern in the round according to diagram A.4 for 15 cm / 6'' (= 5-5-5-5-6-6 repetitions of 12 sts). K 1 round while working sts in every cable K tog two by two (= 15-15-15-15-18-18 sts dec) = 45-45-45-45-54-54 sts. Then bind off sts with K over K and P over P. Sleeve measures approx. 55-55-56-56-57-57 cm / 21 5/8''-21 5/8''-22''-22''-22½''-22½'' from cast-on edge.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside cast-on edges. Sew edge in garter st tog mid back and sew it to the neckline at the back of neck with neat, little stitches. Sew side seam from armhole and down, sew in outer loops of edge sts so that the seam is flat. Place one sleeve in under edge in garter st in armhole and sew neatly with small stitches (edge in garter st should be on the outside of sleeve - make sure to avoid a tight seam). Sew in the other sleeve the same way. Sew on buttons.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = YO between 2 sts
symbols = K 3, pass first st worked over the other 2 so that this st is around the last 2 sts worked (= 1 st dec)
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
symbols = knitting direction
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 171-3) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (25)

country flag Ginette 19.11.2020 - 17:09:

For pattern 171-3 Bridget how much yarn in group c - Puna would I require to make this in the large size?

user icon DROPS Design 20.11.2020 kl. 08:14:

Dear Ginette, DROPS Puna is yarn group B you cannot use to replace 2 strands yarn group A - you should use instead a yarn group C as Air for example - read more about alternatives here. Happy knitting!

country flag Jorunn 09.05.2020 - 11:30:

Jeg finner ikke hvor jeg skal begynne med første knapphull

user icon DROPS Design 11.05.2020 kl. 07:20:

Hei Jorunn, På toppen av oppskriften, under Instruksjoner og deretter under Knapphull, har du plassering for alle knapphull. God fornøyelse!

country flag Simone 17.12.2019 - 14:22:

I'm not clear how the left and right Front pieces are attached - how is the 10cm section of garter stitch (5 stitches wide) stitched into the neckline? A diagram would help me!

user icon DROPS Design 17.12.2019 kl. 15:08:

Dear Simone, the 10 cm garter stitch worked over the 5 stitches at the beg of front piece will be then sewn along neckline on back piece - could this video help you to visualize how it should be - the video is showing a bottom -up pattern ie ending with shawl collar while here you start with shawl collar. Happy knitting!

country flag Perrot.isabelle 10.02.2019 - 12:17:

Bonjour, en tricotant ce (très joli) cardigan, j'ai du inverser A1 et A2 pour avoir les torsades près de la bordure (sur le devant)…. N'y aurait-il pas une erreur dans les explication? Il est en effet dit A1 pour le devant droit et A2 pour le devant gauche, ce qui place la diminution sur les trois mailles près de la bordure. Cordialement, Isabelle Perrot

user icon DROPS Design 11.02.2019 kl. 09:55:

Bonjour Mme Perrot, on tricote bien A.1 pour le devant droit et A.2 pour le devant gauche, vu sur l'endroit, on commence par la torsade ajourée pour terminer par la torsade sur 6 m et la bordure devant pour le devant droit, et, pour le devant gauche, vu sur l'endroit , après la bordure devant, on tricote d'abord la torsade puis la torsade ajourée de A.2. Bon tricot!

country flag Nicole 13.02.2018 - 23:43:

Bjr.je tricote la 1ere taille et le cote droit.je suis arrivee apres les 4 cm .augmenter 1 m avant A1....je ne comprends pas le decalage

user icon DROPS Design 14.02.2018 kl. 09:10:

Bonjour Nicole, en même temps que le décalage de A.2, on augmente pour l'encolure avant les 5 m point mousse de la bordure devant:: 2x tous les 4 rangs et 12x tous les 2 rangs. En même temps, vous décalez A.1 vers A.3 8 x tous les 4 rangs. Le nombre de mailles augmentant après A.1 vous pouvez ainsi décaler A.1 vers la gauche. Bon tricot

country flag Genay 12.02.2018 - 19:56:

Merci pour votre reponse. J'ai bien compris la facon de faire les decalage mais je ne peux pas diminuer 8 fois 1 m apres A1 piusque je n'ai que 2 m. Je suis vraiment bloquee à cet endroit.

user icon DROPS Design 13.02.2018 kl. 08:40:

Bonjour Mme Genay, pouvez-vous préciser la taille tricotée et l'endroit exact où vous êtes arrivée? Ces informations peuvent être utile pour vous aider.

country flag N8cole 24.01.2018 - 18:43:

Bonjour. Pour le côté droit comment diminuer 1 m. Après A1 8 fois au total puisqu'il n'y aura pas assez de mailles. Il n'y en a que 2.

user icon DROPS Design 25.01.2018 kl. 08:50:

Bonjour Nicole, A.1 se tricote en début de rang sur l'endroit et on augmente 1 m avant A.1 (on diminue 1 m après A.1). Les diminutions et les augmentations sont expliquées sous DÉCALAGE DE A.1/A.2 sous le DOS et DÉCALAGE DE A.1 sous le devant. Bon tricot!

country flag Nicole Genay 22.12.2017 - 17:43:

Re bonjour Et que veut dire :15 m jersey à 2 m point mousse du bord de chaque côté. Après les emmanchures du dos.

user icon DROPS Design 02.01.2018 kl. 08:01:

Bonjour Mme Genay, quand le décalage est terminé, vous avez 16 m de A.3 au milieu dos, et l'ouvrage commence par 2 m point mousse, 15 m jersey et se termine par 15 m jersey et 2 m point mousse. Bon tricot!

country flag Nicole Genay 22.12.2017 - 16:03:

Bonjour Je ne comprends pas la côte mousse au dessus des 6 m de chaque côté dans les explications du dos

user icon DROPS Design 22.12.2017 kl. 16:26:

Bonjour Mme Genay, on tricote 1 côte mousse (= 2 rangs endroit) sur les 6 mailles montées pour les emmanchures de chaque côté (les autres mailles se tricotent comme indiqué), on a ainsi une petite bordure au point mousse sous la manche, puis on continue comme avant mais avec seulement 2 mailles point mousse de chaque côté. Bon tricot!

country flag Genay Nicole 10.12.2017 - 20:58:

Si je diminue d'une maille avant a2 qui est en début de rang, alors que je n'ai que 6 mailles avant le dessin soit 3 m.end,1m.jersey et 2m.env. je serai très vite sans aucune maille

user icon DROPS Design 11.12.2017 kl. 10:13:

Bonjour Mme Genay, le décalage se fait sur l'endroit, or sur l'endroit, on commence par A.1 en début de rang (épaule gauche) et on termine par A.2 (épaule droite) à la fin du rang. le nombre de mailles entre les 3 m point mousse des bords et le diagramme (A.1 ou A.2) va augmenter, et le nombre de mailles entre A.1 et A.2 va diminuer. Bon tricot!

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