DROPS design: Pattern no z-767
Yarn group A + A or C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
300-350-400-400-450-500 g color no 9021, fog
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
125-150-150-175-200-200 g color no 07, light steel blue

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm / 16" + 24'' or 32'') SIZE 5 mm/US 8 – or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st with 1 strand of each yarn (= 2 strands ) = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 - for edge in garter st.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Alpaca
from 3.70 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.70 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.90 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.80 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 5.80 $ /25g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 5.80 $ /25g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 51.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

DECREASE TIP-1:
All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows before marker: Beg 2 sts before marker and K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

INCREASE TIP:
All inc are done from RS.
Inc after/before marker by making 1 YO. On next row P YO twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP-2:
Beg 3 sts before marker and K 2 tog, K 2 (marker is between these sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec).

KNITTING TIP:
Because of the shape of the jumper it will be somewhat longer in the sides than mid front/mid back. To avoid this you can work short rows over middle part evenly spaced as follows: * Beg from RS and work as before until A.2, turn, tighten yarn and work from WS until A.1, turn, tighten yarn and work from RS as before *, repeat from *-* approx. every 7th cm / 2 3/4''.
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JUMPER:
Work front and back piece back and forth on circular needle in sections.

FRONT PIECE:
Beg with left shoulder, then work right shoulder before casting on sts for neck and continuing over all sts – READ KNITTING TIP!

LEFT SHOULDER (when garment is worn):
Cast on 17-18-18-19-19-20 sts on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). K 1 row from WS. Work next row as follows from RS: 2 edge sts in GARTER ST – see explanation above (= towards the neck), P 2, inc 1 st in each of the next 3 sts (K 2 in each st), P 2, K 2, P 2, 1-2-2-3-3-4 sts in stockinette st and 3 edge sts in garter st towards armhole = 20-21-21-22-22-23 sts on needle. Work back from WS with garter st over garter st, P over P, K over K. Work next row as follows from RS: 2 edge sts in garter st, work pattern according to diagram A.2 over the next 14 sts, 1-2-2-3-3-4 sts in stockinette st and 3 edge sts in garter st. Continue pattern like this until piece measures 4 cm / 1½''. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE Insert 1 marker before A.2 (seen from RS) and 1 marker 1 st after A.2 (= 15 sts between markers). Now beg displacement of cable towards mid front AT THE SAME TIME cast on new sts for neck at the end of every row from WS as follows:
DISPLACEMENT IN A.2:
Dec 1 st before A.2 and inc 1 st after A.2 – READ DECREASE TIP-1 and INCREASE TIP. Dec and inc like this every 4th-6th-6th-8th-10th-10th row 8-7-7-6-6-6 times in total (work the inc sts in stockinette st).
NECK:
AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row from WS beg the inc for neck by
casting on new sts for neck at the end of every row from WS as follows: Cast on 1 st 2-2-2-2-3-3 times and 2 sts 1 time (work the inc sts in garter st) = 24-25-25-26-27-28 sts. Put piece aside and work
right shoulder.

RIGHT SHOULDER (when garment is worn):
Cast on 17-18-18-19-19-20 sts on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). K 1 row from WS. Work next row as follows from RS: 3 edge sts in garter st towards armhole, 1-2-2-3-3-4 sts in stockinette st, P 2, K 2, P 2, inc 1 st in each of the next 3 sts (K 2 in each st), P 2 and 2 edge sts in garter st towards the neck = 20-21-21-22-22-23 sts on needle. Work back from WS with K over K, P over P and garter st over garter st. Work next row as follows from RS: 3 edge sts in garter st, 1-2-2-3-3-4 sts in stockinette st, work pattern according to A.1 over the next 14 sts and finish with 2 edge sts in garter st. Continue pattern like this until piece measures 4 cm / 1½''. Insert 1 marker 1 st before A.1 (seen from RS) and 1 marker after A.1 (= 15 sts between markers). Now beg displacement of cable towards mid front AT THE SAME TIME cast on new sts for neck at the end of every row from RS as follows:
DISPLACEMENT IN A.1:
Inc 1 st before A.1 and dec 1 st after A.1 – READ INCREASE TIP and DECREASE TIP-1. Inc and dec like this every 4th-6th-6th-8th-10th-10th row 8-7-7-6-6-6 times in total (work the inc sts in stockinette st).
NECK:
AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row from RS beg the inc for neck by
casting on new sts at the end of every row from RS as follows: Cast on 1 st 2-2-2-2-3-3 times, 2 sts 1 time and then 20-20-22-22-22-22 sts 1 time (work the inc sts in garter st) = 44-45-47-48-49-50 sts. Now work right and left shoulder tog for front piece.

FRONT PIECE:
Keep sts on right shoulder on needle and continue pattern from RS over sts from left shoulder = 68-70-72-74-76-78 sts on needle. Work next row as follows from WS: 3 edge sts in garter st, P until A.2, continue A.2 (= 14 sts), K over the next 32-32-34-34-36-36 sts (i.e. sts between A.2 and A.1), continue A.1 (= 14 sts), P until 3 sts remain on needle and finish with 3 edge sts in garter st. Work next row as follows from RS (continue displacement in A.1/A.2 as before): 3 edge sts in garter st, work in stockinette st until A.1, continue A.1, work pattern according to diagram A.3 over sts between A.1 and A.2, continue A.2, work in stockinette st until 3 sts remain on needle and finish with 3 edge sts in garter st. Continue pattern like this and displacement as explained above.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 17-17-17-16-14-12 cm / 6 3/4"-6 3/4"-6 3/4"-6 1/4"-5½"-4 3/4", inc for armholes in each side (from RS): Inc 1 st inside 3 edge sts in garter st in each side by making 1 YO. On next row P YO twisted to avoid holes. Inc like this every other row (i.e. on every row from RS) 2-3-5-7-10-13 times in total, then cast on 3-4-5-6-7-8 new sts at the end of the next 2 rows for armholes = 78-84-92-100-110-120 sts on needle.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING! Continue pattern as before but work 1 ridge over the outermost 6-7-8-9-10-11 sts in each side (work the remaining sts as before). NOTE: In size XXL + XXXL continue displacements in A.1/A.2 as before (in size S + M + L + XL displacements are now done if the knitting gauge is kept vertically).
When 1 ridge has been worked over the outermost 6-7-8-9-10-11 sts in each side continue pattern as before, but with 2-2-2-3-3-3 edge sts in garter st in each side until finished measurements.
When displacement is done in all sizes, there are 16-18-20-22-24-24 sts pattern according to A.3 mid front and 15-17-20-22-26-31 sts in stockinette st on inside of 2-2-2-3-3-3 edge sts in garter st in each side.
Continue to work without displacement until piece measures 28-30-32-34-36-38 cm / 11''-11¾''-12½''-13 3/8''-14¼''-15'' from shoulder – adjust so that the next row is worked from RS.
Now beg inc in the sides AT THE SAME TIME the cables will displace towards the sides as follows:
INC IN THE SIDES:
Inc 1 st inside of the outermost 5-5-5-6-6-6 sts in each side by making 1 YO. On next row P YO twisted to avoid holes. Inc like this every 8th row 10 times in total in each side (or desired length – NOTE: All inc are done from RS).
DISPLACEMENT IN A.1/A.2:
Dec 1 st before A.1 and inc 1 st after A.1, inc 1 st before A.2 and dec 1 st after A.2 (work the inc sts in towards the middle in A.3 so that middle part with A.3 get bigger and bigger).
Dec and inc like this every 8th row until finished measurements.

Continue like this until piece measures approx. 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm / 25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8'' from the shoulder and down (adjust so that next row is worked from RS) = approx. 98-104-112-120-130-140 sts on needle. Switch to circular needle 4 and work 3 ridges back and forth over all sts – AT THE SAME TIME on first row dec over each cable by working sts in the cables K tog two by two (= 6 sts dec) = approx. 92-98-106-114-124-134 sts on needle. Switch back to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and bind off (this is done to avoid a tight bind-off edge).

BACK PIECE:
Beg with right shoulder (when garment is worn), then work left shoulder before casting on sts for neck and continuing over all sts.

RIGHT SHOULDER (when garment is worn):
Cast on and work as left shoulder on front piece, but when piece measures 2 cm / 3/4'', beg inc for neck and cast on 1 new st at the end of first row from WS (work inc st in garter st) = 21-22-22-23-23-24 sts. Put piece aside and work
left shoulder.

LEFT SHOULDER (when garment is worn):
Cast on and work as right shoulder on front piece but when piece measures 2 cm / 3/4'', beg inc for neck and cast on new sts for neck at the end of every row from RS as follows: Cast on 1 st 1 time and then 26-26-28-28-30-30 sts 1 time (work the inc sts in garter st) = 47-48-50-51-53-54 sts. Now work left and right shoulder tog for back piece.

BACK PIECE:
Keep sts on left shoulder on needle and continue pattern from RS over sts from right shoulder = 68-70-72-74-76-78 sts on needle. Work next row as follows from WS: 3 edge sts in garter st, P until A.2, continue A.2 (= 14 sts), K over the next 32-32-34-34-36-36 sts (i.e. sts between A.2 and A.1), continue A.1 (= 14 sts), P until 3 sts remain on needle and finish with 3 edge sts in garter st. Work next row as follows from RS: 3 edge sts in garter st, work in stockinette st until A.1, continue A.1, work pattern according to diagram A.3 over sts between A.1 and A.2, continue A.2, work in stockinette st until 3 sts remain on needle and finish with 3 edge sts in garter st. Continue pattern like this until piece measures 4 cm / 1½''. Insert 1 marker 1 st before A.1 (seen from RS) and 1 marker after A.1 (= 15 sts between markers), in addition insert 1 marker before A.2 and 1 marker 1 st after A.2 (= 15 sts between markers). Now beg displacement of cables towards mid back as follows (from RS):
DISPLACEMENT IN A.1/A.2:
Inc 1 st before A.1 and dec 1 st after A.1 in addition dec 1 st before A.2 and inc 1 st after A.2 – READ INCREASE TIP and DECREASE TIP-1. Inc and dec like this every 4th-6th-6th-8th-10th-10th row 8-7-7-6-6-6 times in total (work the inc sts in stockinette st).
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 17-17-17-16-14-12 cm / 6 3/4"-6 3/4"-6 3/4"-6 1/4"-5½"-4 3/4", beg inc for armholes in each side and work the rest of back piece the same way as front piece.

SLEEVE:
Work back and forth on a short circular needle, top down until sleeve cap is done, then work sleeve in the round on a short circular needle/double pointed needles until finished measurements.
Cast on 24-24-26-24-24-24 sts on a short circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work stockinette st back and forth AT THE SAME TIME cast on new sts for sleeve cap at the end of every row in each side as follows: Cast on 3 sts 1 time in all sizes, 2 sts 2-3-3-3-3-3 times, 1 st 3-3-3-3-5-7 times, 2 sts 2-2-3-3-3-3 times and 3 sts 1-1-1-2-2-2 times = 58-62-68-72-76-80 sts on needle (piece measures approx. 8-9-10-11-13-15 cm / 3"-3½"-4"-4½"-5"-6"). Insert 1 marker thread at beg of row (= mid under sleeve). Then work in stockinette st in the round. When piece measures 2 cm / 3/4'' from marker thread, dec 2 sts mid under sleeve - READ DECREASE TIP-2. Dec a total of 12-13-15-17-18-19 times in Size S: Alternately on every 5th and 6th round, in size M: On every 5th round, in size L: On every 4th round, in size XL: Alternately on every 3rd and 4th round, in size XXL: On every 3rd round and in size XXXL: Alternately on every 2nd and 3rd round = 34-36-38-38-40-42 sts. When piece measures 31-30-30-29-28-26 cm / 12 1/4"-11 3/4"-11 3/4"-11½"-11"-10 1/4" from marker thread (entire sleeve measures approx. 39-39-40-40-41-41 cm / 15 1/4"-15 1/4"-15 3/4"-15 3/4"-16"-16" and dec should be done), K 1 round while inc 26-24-22-22-32-30 sts evenly = 60-60-60-60-72-72 sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 and work pattern in the round according to diagram A.4 for 15 cm / 6'' (= 5-5-5-5-6-6 repetitions of 12 sts). K 1 round while working sts in every cable K tog two by two (= 15-15-15-15-18-18 sts dec) = 45-45-45-45-54-54 sts. Then bind off sts with K over K and P over P. Sleeve measures approx. 55-55-56-56-57-57 cm / 21 5/8''-21 5/8''-22''-22''-22½''-22½'' from cast-on edge. Make another sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside cast-on edges. Sew side seam from armhole and down, sew in outer loops of edge sts so that the seam is flat. Place one sleeve in under edge in garter st in armhole and sew neatly with small stitches (edge in garter st should be on the outside of sleeve - make sure to avoid a tight seam). Sew in the other sleeve the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = K 3, pass first st worked over the other 2 so that this st is around the last 2 sts worked (= 1 st dec)
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
symbols = knitting direction
diagram
diagram
signature-image

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 171-4) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
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Comments / Questions (51)

country flag Annelies Koopman wrote:

Klopt mijn berekening dat ik 9 bollen/450 gram nodig heb als ik deze trui met Drops Air wil breien in XL ? alvast dank voor uw antwoord!

02.11.2021 - 21:00:

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Annelies,

Ja, dat klopt! Als je naar de looplengte kijkt en dat omrekent, kom je inderdaad op 9 bollen /450 gram DROPS Air.

11.11.2021 kl. 09:04:

country flag Francoise Boiteux wrote:

Bonjour, pourquoi faut il tricoter le dos et le devant avec des aiguilles circulaires ? peut on le faire avec des aiguilles normales ? Combien de pelotes en alpaca pour une taille M ? Merci pour vos réponses

22.09.2020 - 08:12:

DROPS Design answered:

BonjourMme Boiteux, on tricote les devants et le dos sur aiguille circulaire pour avoir suffisamment de place pour y loger toutes les mailles (plus d'infos ici) - en taille M, il vous faudra 350 g DROPS Alpaca/50 g la pelote = 7 pelotes + 150 g DROPS Kid-Silk /25 g la pelote = 6 pelotes. Bon tricot!

22.09.2020 kl. 11:36:

country flag Carme wrote:

Ya termine el jersey , no hace falta que me contesten

05.11.2019 - 18:58:

country flag Carme wrote:

Apreciado equipo drops ,con la talla M , estoy en la fase del pliegue de la sisa , tengo 84 puntos en las agujas , si entendí bien lo del pliegue , disminuyo 7 puntos encima del jersey , entonces todo se descuadra ,,, la secuencia es en musgo 4 ,3,3 / jersey 9 /A2 14 / A3 18 / A1 14 / jersey 9 / musgo 3,3, 4 igual a 84 si hago el pliegue no me salen 17 puntos en jersey más 2 de musgo

23.10.2019 - 00:25:

country flag Rosy wrote:

Bonjour, J’ai bientôt terminé ce pull, je vais passer au montage. Rien n’est indiqué pour l’encolure. Faut il improviser ou bien avez vous des conseils ? Merci d’avance pour votre réponse

28.01.2019 - 12:00:

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Rosy, la bordure d'encolure a été réalisée dès le début, il n'y aura donc rien à ajouter, assemblez simplement les épaules et faites toutes les autres coutures. Bon tricot!

28.01.2019 kl. 12:21:

country flag Roseline wrote:

Bonjour J’ai découvert votre site récemment et j’adore ! J’ai besoin de précisions pour ce modèle ( je suis en train de faire le devant) Qu’est ce qu’une côte mousse dans ce cas précis ? Je n’ai pas compris au dessus de quels points on doit la réaliser. Au dessus du point fantaisie ? Du point mousse de chaque côté ? Sur combien de rangs ? Merci beaucoup par avance pour votre réponse et le temps que vous m’accorderez .

04.01.2019 - 11:27:

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Roseline, 1 côte mousse nécessite 2 rangs (= 2 rangs endroit ou bien si on tricote en rond 1 tour end, 1 tour env). On va par exemple tricoter pour l'épaule gauche, taille S: 2 m point mousse (= à l'end tous les rangs), 2 m env, on tricote 2 x les 3 m suivantes, 2 m env, 2 m end, 2 m env, 1 m jersey et 3 m point mousse. Bon tricot!

04.01.2019 kl. 12:48:

country flag J Ryder wrote:

What a beautiful design. I have only just found your website and Im astounded by the huge number of modern knitting patterns you have available for free. Thank you! I'm excited to begin my next project with one of your patterns.

04.01.2019 - 01:52:

country flag K. Werner wrote:

Schade, die Anleitung gehört nicht zum Pullover im Bild! Habe erst beim Stricken realisiert, dass der Pullover im Bild gar kein Zopfmuster hat, dort sind nämlich seitl. weglaufende Streifen zu sehen. Im Originalbild ist auch alle 4 Reihen ein Lochmuster zu sehen, die Anleitung wechselt zw. Lochmuster und Maschen zusammenziehen. Sieht gestrickt lange nicht so schön aus, wie im Originalbild.

22.12.2018 - 13:07:

Maha wrote:

I love it so much , i want to make it ,but i have probem on this pattern which is using needle no 5 but i have yarn which suitable to use needle no 4 maximum . Could you please help me concerning this problem if possible??

01.12.2018 - 21:59:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Maha, this pattern is worked on the basis of the tension 17 sts x 22 rows stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm - you can adjust the needle size if required - if your yarn is thinner, you may don't have the same result - please contact the store where you bought it for any further assistance adjusting the pattern to your own gauge. Or you can search another pattern matching your own tension. Happy knitting!

03.12.2018 kl. 09:08:

country flag Vera wrote:

Hallo\r\nWieviele Reihen hat die Schulter für Größe S bevor man sie zur Seite legt? \r\n4 cm und dann 1M 2x und 2M 1x \r\nHeißt nach 4 cm noch 6 Reihen und dann zur Seite legen und die Verschiebungen gelten für das Vorderteil wenn die Schultern und der Halsrand schon zusammengefügt wurden?\r\n\r\nLg Vera

23.09.2018 - 19:54:

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Vera, die Maschen werden stillgelegt, wenn alle Maschen auf der Seite (=Halsaufschnitt) angeschlagen sind = 24 M in der Größe S (die Verschiebung wird dann später weitergestrickt). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

24.09.2018 kl. 09:46:

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