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Snow Tracks by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jumper with cables and detachable collar in ”Nepal”. Size: S - XXXL.

Keywords: bottom up, cable, high neck, jumper, long sleeves, round neck, sewn in sleeves

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DROPS 171-20
DROPS design: Pattern no ne-212
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
650-700-800-850-950-1050 g colour no 0501, grey

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 4.5 mm for rib - or size needed to get 18 sts x 20 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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65% Wool, 35% Alpaca 		from 2.40 £ /50g
DROPS Nepal uni colour DROPS Nepal uni colour 2.40 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Nepal mix DROPS Nepal mix 2.50 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.20£. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 st in each side of section in stocking st as follows:
K 1, slip next st as if to K, K 1, psso, work until 3 sts remain, K 2 tog, K 1.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc with 1 YO inside first and last st in stocking st, work the inc sts twisted on next round to avoid holes.

GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.
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JUMPER:
Worked in the round on circular needle.

BODY:
Cast on 222-238-254-286-302-318 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm with Nepal. K 1 round, then work as follows: * P 1, rib K 2/P 2 over the first 12-16-20-28-32-36 sts, K 2, A.1 (= 10 sts) A.2 (= 15 sts), P 2, A.3 (= 27 sts), P 2, A.2, A.1, K 2, rib P 2/K 2 over the next 12-16-20-28-32-36 sts, P 1 *, repeat from *-* 1 more time. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION

Repeat the first 2 rounds in A.1 - A.3 until piece measures 8 cm, then work the last 2 rounds in A.1 - A.3, AT THE SAME TIME dec 10-10-14-20-18-16 sts evenly over the 30-38-46-62-70-78 sts rib in each side = 172-188-196-216-236-256 sts. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm.

Then work as follows: * K 10-14-16-21-26-31, P 8, A.4 (= 12 sts), P 2, A.5 (= 22 sts), P 2, A.6 (= 12 m), P 8, K 10-14-16-21-26-31 *, repeat from *-* 1 more time.

When piece measures 10 cm, dec 1 st in every P section with P 8 and dec 1 st in each side of section in stocking st - READ DECREASE TIP (= 8 sts dec), dec the same way every 4 cm, 6 times in total, dec alternately on right and left side of P sections = 124-140-148-168-188-208 sts. When piece measures 34 cm, inc 1 st in every P section with a dec, and 1 st in every section in stocking st (= 8 sts inc) - READ INCREASE TIP, repeat inc when piece measures 46-47-48-49-50-51 cm = 140-156-164-184-204-224 sts. When piece measures 50-51-52-53-54-55 cm, work as follows from RS: Cast off the first 2-3-3-3-3-3 sts, work the next 66-72-76-86-96-106 sts as before, cast off the next 4-6-6-6-6-6 sts, work the next 66-72-76-86-96-106 sts as before and cast off the last 2-3-3-3-3-3 sts. Each part is worked separately back and forth on circular needle.

BACK PIECE:
= 66-72-76-86-96-106 sts. Continue pattern as before, AT THE SAME TIME continue to cast off in each side for armholes on every other row: Cast off 2 sts 0-1-1-2-3-4 times and 1 st 0-0-1-3-5-7 times = 66-68-70-72-74-76 sts. Continue the pattern as before. When piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm, cast off the middle 24-26-28-30-32-34 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. On next row cast off 1 st towards the neck = 20 sts remain on each shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm.

FRONT PIECE:
= 66-72-76-86-96-106 sts. Continue pattern as before and cast off for armholes as on back piece = 66-68-70-72-74-76 sts. Continue the pattern like this. When piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm, slip the middle 18-20-22-24-26-28 sts on a stitch holder for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then cast off on every row towards neck, 2 sts 1 time, 1 st 2 times = 20 sts remain on shoulder. Work sts that do not fit the pattern in stocking st. Cast off when piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 45-45-50-50-50-50 sts on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm with Nepal. K 1 round, then work rib = K 2/P 3. When rib measures 10 cm, K 1 round while dec 11-9-12-10-10-8 sts evenly = 34-36-38-40-40-42 sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 5 mm and continue in stocking st. Insert 1 marker at the beg of round. When piece measures 11 cm, inc 1 st on each side of marker, inc every 4-3½-3-2½-2-1½ cm a total of 9-10-11-13-15-17 times = 52-56-60-66-70-76 sts. When piece measures 47-47-47-46-45-44 cm (NOTE! Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of broader shoulders), cast off 6 sts mid under sleeve (= 3 sts on each side of marker), now finish piece back and forth on needle. Cast off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side as follows: 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 0-1-1-2-3-5 times, cast off 2 sts in each side of piece until piece measures 53-53-54-54-54-55 cm, cast off 3 sts in each side and cast off the remaining sts. Piece measures 54-54-55-55-55-56 cm in total.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up approx. 64 to 86 sts around the neck (incl sts on stitch holder) on a short circular needle size 5 mm with Nepal. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST – see explanation above, then cast off.

DETACHABLE COLLAR:
Cast on 108 sts on a short circular needle size 4.5 mm with grey. K 1 round, then work rib = K 2/P 2. Work rib for 25 cm, then cast off with K over K and P over P.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams and sew in sleeves.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
symbols = P 2 tog
symbols = no stitch, skip this square
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 171-20) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (76)

country flag Katrien wrote:

Bij de beschrijving van de mouw staat... brei tot een hoogte van 11cm,meerder 1 st aan elke kant van de markeerder....is het 11 cm van in het begin, met de boord erbij ,of na de 10 cm van de boord,op een totaal van 21 cm beginnen met meerderen?Groetjes,Katrien.

28.07.2023 - 17:26

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Katrien,

De 11 cm wordt gemeten vanaf het begin, dus vanaf het opzetten.

01.08.2023 kl. 20:50

country flag Christine wrote:

C'est toujours moi, désolée. A4, A5 et A6 : au rang suivant, doit-on tricoter le jeté en maille torse (en fait, je ne l'avais pas vu sur le diagramme) ? Sur la photo du modèle, on voit nettement un trou, bien ouvert. Merci

24.03.2023 - 17:21

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Christine, les jetés de A.4, A.5 et A.6 se tricotent normalement (dans le brin avant) = à l'endroit sur l'endroit (quand on tricote en rond) et à l'envers sur l'envers (quand on tricote en allers et retours). Bon tricot!

27.03.2023 kl. 08:41

country flag Christine wrote:

Merci beaucoup. Le petit signe de la troisième maille sur le diagramme ressemble à un petit trait et non un petit rond, alors j'avais peur de me tromper. Je voyais un petit trait, "env sur end ou end sur env", pas "jeté", ça n'avait pas de sens... :-)

24.03.2023 - 16:28

country flag Christine wrote:

Bonjour, Je ne comprends pas A4 et A6 : la troisième maille ne doit-elle pas être un jeté ? Merci

24.03.2023 - 13:08

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Christine, si tout à fait, ainsi, on tricote le 1er rang de A.4 et de A.6 ainsi: glisser 1 m à l'end, 1 m end, passer la m glissée par-dessus la m tricotée, 1 jeté, 1 m env, 6 m end, 1 m env, 1 jeté, 2 m ens à l'end (= 12 m). Bon tricot!

24.03.2023 kl. 13:34

country flag Anneli Mäkelä wrote:

Hej! Jag försöker sticka model 170-20. Resåren gick bra, men sedan sa det stopp: det sägs att jag skall sticka de två sista varven av A1-A3 och samtidigt minska 10 maskor över de 30 maskorna resor. Men det sägs inget hur dessa resormaskor nu skall stickas? Och mellan A1 -A3 finns det några extra maskor. Hur skall de stickas. Jag har stickat en hel del, över 200 tröjor, men jag har svårt med denna modells förklaringar. Kan ni hjälpa mig? Anneli

19.12.2022 - 13:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anneli, når du har strikket resåren og har minskat de 10 masker i hver side fortsætter du så här: * 10-14-16-21-26-31 rm, 8 am, A.4 (= 12 m), 2 am, A.5 (= 22 m), 2 am, A.6 (= 12 m), 8 am, 10-14-16-21-26-31 rm *, upprepa *-* 1 gång till.

20.12.2022 kl. 09:24

country flag Ans Schouten wrote:

Misschien een idee om de omslagen in A4 en A6 wat duidelijker weer te geven!? Ze zijn nauwelijks zichtbaar, wat verwarrend kan werken. Zou je ze nl niet meenemen , minder je in maat M ook 48 st. (188-140) en wordt het verhaal van minderingen onduidelijk. Alleen iemand die kabels kan breien, begrijpt dan dat hier iets niet klopt.

05.09.2022 - 14:23

country flag Richelle wrote:

Mijn moederhaat deze trui voor mij breien, maar dan zonder mouwen (als spencer) en daarnaast ben ik allergisch voor wol, dus vandaar de volgende 2 vragen. - hoeveel garen hebben we nodig? - welk garen (in wolwit) zonder wol zou hier het beste geschikt voor zijn? Hoop dat jullie ons verder kunnen helpen.

31.07.2022 - 19:01

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Richelle,

Hoeveel wol je precies nodig hebt weet ik niet precies, dat hangt ook van de maat af, maar mijn inschatting is ongeveer 3 a 4 bollen minder. Je kunt de winkel waar je de wol koopt, vragen binnen welke termijn je overgebleven bollen in kunt leveren, zodat je evt. wat extra kunt kopen. Een geschikte vervanging voor wol is in dit geval DROPS Big Merino. Dit heeft dezefde dikte als het garen aangegeven in het patroon. (Katoen zou het geheel wat te zwaar maken.) Je kunt de garenvervanger gebruiken om de hoeveelheid benodigde bollen te berekenen.

06.08.2022 kl. 11:53

country flag Valerie wrote:

Bonjour Après toutes les diminutions de la manche, il restera combien de mailles à rabattre pour la taille Xl svp Merci par avance pour votre aide Cordialement Valérie

06.07.2022 - 05:12

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Valérie, tout va dépendre de votre tension en hauteur, et ici la hauteur en cm est plus importante que le nombre de mailles restantes, autrement dit, en XL, rabattez au début de chaque rang de chaque côté: 3 x 2 m, puis 2 x 1 m puis 2 m (= au début de chaque rang de chaque côté aussi) jusqu'à ce que la manche mesure 54 cm (veillez bien à rabattre le même nombre de mailles de chaque côté), rabattez ensuite 1 x 3 m de chaque côté et rabattez les mailles restantes. Bon tricot!

06.07.2022 kl. 09:10

country flag Lucy Naomi Fukuhara Inamine wrote:

Tengo una duda, estoy haciendo el Cuerpo y dice "cuando mida 8 cm tejer las 2 últimas vueltas de los gráficos A3-A1 y AL MISMO TIEMPO disminuir 10 puntos en los 38 puntos de resorte" al final debería quedarme 188 puntos, es decir, debo disminuir en total 50 puntos (la talla M comienza con 238) pero el problema es que en A3-A1 solo hay 10 disminuciones por lado, es decir, un total de 20 disminuciones, si le sumo las 10 disminuciones del elástico, me da en total 30 disminuciones no de 50?

11.12.2021 - 05:25

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Lucy, se disminuyen 10 puntos repartidos a cada lado, por lo que tendrás en total 20 disminuciones en ese sentido. Por otro lado, A.1 y A.2 se repiten 2 veces en la vuelta en cada lado, por lo que en total vas a tener 30 disminuciones entre los diagramas A.1, A.2 y A.3. (= 5 en cada A.3, 3 en cada A.2 y 2 en cada A.1).

11.12.2021 kl. 21:16

country flag Marie wrote:

Après les 8 cm au 2´ tour pour les diminution de 10 mailles est-ce un total de 20 mailles de diminution en ayant 10 mailles de diminution de chaque côté merci

09.12.2021 - 21:50

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marie, vous diminuez 20 mailles (en taille XL) au-dessus des 62 mailles du devant et tu dos (= 40 diminutions au total + les diminutions du dernier rang des diagrammes). Bon tricot!

10.12.2021 kl. 08:27

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