DROPS / 171 / 20

Snow Tracks by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jumper with cables and detachable collar in ”Nepal”. Size: S - XXXL.

  • Snow Tracks / DROPS 171-20 - Knitted DROPS jumper with cables and detachable collar in ”Nepal”. Size: S - XXXL.
  • Snow Tracks / DROPS 171-20 - Knitted DROPS jumper with cables and detachable collar in ”Nepal”. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS design: Pattern no ne-212
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
650-700-800-850-950-1050 g colour no 0501, grey

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 4.5 mm for rib - or size needed to get 18 sts x 20 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Nepal uni colour DROPS Nepal uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Nepal mix DROPS Nepal mix 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 st in each side of section in stocking st as follows:
K 1, slip next st as if to K, K 1, psso, work until 3 sts remain, K 2 tog, K 1.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc with 1 YO inside first and last st in stocking st, work the inc sts twisted on next round to avoid holes.

GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.
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JUMPER:
Worked in the round on circular needle.

BODY:
Cast on 222-238-254-286-302-318 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm with Nepal. K 1 round, then work as follows: * P 1, rib K 2/P 2 over the first 12-16-20-28-32-36 sts, K 2, A.1 (= 10 sts) A.2 (= 15 sts), P 2, A.3 (= 27 sts), P 2, A.2, A.1, K 2, rib P 2/K 2 over the next 12-16-20-28-32-36 sts, P 1 *, repeat from *-* 1 more time. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION

Repeat the first 2 rounds in A.1 - A.3 until piece measures 8 cm, then work the last 2 rounds in A.1 - A.3, AT THE SAME TIME dec 10-10-14-20-18-16 sts evenly over the 30-38-46-62-70-78 sts rib in each side = 172-188-196-216-236-256 sts. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm.

Then work as follows: * K 10-14-16-21-26-31, P 8, A.4 (= 12 sts), P 2, A.5 (= 22 sts), P 2, A.6 (= 12 m), P 8, K 10-14-16-21-26-31 *, repeat from *-* 1 more time.

When piece measures 10 cm, dec 1 st in every P section with P 8 and dec 1 st in each side of section in stocking st - READ DECREASE TIP (= 8 sts dec), dec the same way every 4 cm, 6 times in total, dec alternately on right and left side of P sections = 124-140-148-168-188-208 sts. When piece measures 34 cm, inc 1 st in every P section with a dec, and 1 st in every section in stocking st (= 8 sts inc) - READ INCREASE TIP, repeat inc when piece measures 46-47-48-49-50-51 cm = 140-156-164-184-204-224 sts. When piece measures 50-51-52-53-54-55 cm, work as follows from RS: Cast off the first 2-3-3-3-3-3 sts, work the next 66-72-76-86-96-106 sts as before, cast off the next 4-6-6-6-6-6 sts, work the next 66-72-76-86-96-106 sts as before and cast off the last 2-3-3-3-3-3 sts. Each part is worked separately back and forth on circular needle.

BACK PIECE:
= 66-72-76-86-96-106 sts. Continue pattern as before, AT THE SAME TIME continue to cast off in each side for armholes on every other row: Cast off 2 sts 0-1-1-2-3-4 times and 1 st 0-0-1-3-5-7 times = 66-68-70-72-74-76 sts. Continue the pattern as before. When piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm, cast off the middle 24-26-28-30-32-34 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. On next row cast off 1 st towards the neck = 20 sts remain on each shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm.

FRONT PIECE:
= 66-72-76-86-96-106 sts. Continue pattern as before and cast off for armholes as on back piece = 66-68-70-72-74-76 sts. Continue the pattern like this. When piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm, slip the middle 18-20-22-24-26-28 sts on a stitch holder for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then cast off on every row towards neck, 2 sts 1 time, 1 st 2 times = 20 sts remain on shoulder. Work sts that do not fit the pattern in stocking st. Cast off when piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 45-45-50-50-50-50 sts on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm with Nepal. K 1 round, then work rib = K 2/P 3. When rib measures 10 cm, K 1 round while dec 11-9-12-10-10-8 sts evenly = 34-36-38-40-40-42 sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 5 mm and continue in stocking st. Insert 1 marker at the beg of round. When piece measures 11 cm, inc 1 st on each side of marker, inc every 4-3½-3-2½-2-1½ cm a total of 9-10-11-13-15-17 times = 52-56-60-66-70-76 sts. When piece measures 47-47-47-46-45-44 cm (NOTE! Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of broader shoulders), cast off 6 sts mid under sleeve (= 3 sts on each side of marker), now finish piece back and forth on needle. Cast off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side as follows: 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 0-1-1-2-3-5 times, cast off 2 sts in each side of piece until piece measures 53-53-54-54-54-55 cm, cast off 3 sts in each side and cast off the remaining sts. Piece measures 54-54-55-55-55-56 cm in total.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up approx. 64 to 86 sts around the neck (incl sts on stitch holder) on a short circular needle size 5 mm with Nepal. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST – see explanation above, then cast off.

DETACHABLE COLLAR:
Cast on 108 sts on a short circular needle size 4.5 mm with grey. K 1 round, then work rib = K 2/P 2. Work rib for 25 cm, then cast off with K over K and P over P.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams and sew in sleeves.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
symbols = P 2 tog
symbols = no stitch, skip this square
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 171-20) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (65)

country flag Madelon 23.02.2021 - 21:36:

Hallo! Ik ben vol enthousiasme begonnen aan deze trui. Ik ben nu beland bij het patroon. Daar heb ik een jaar vragen over. Er staat: brei tot een hoogte van 10cm, is dat vanaf dat ik begin met het patroon of vanaf het begin? En het minderen in de averechte steken: is dat meteen vanaf het begin of na die 10cm? En bedoelt u met het minderen in tricotsteek dan de eerste (14) steken? En geldt die mindering dan per 4cm of gelijktijdig met de mindering in de av delen? Ik hoor het graag?

user icon DROPS Design 02.03.2021 kl. 09:32:

Dag Madelon,

De 10 cm is vanaf het opzetten en het minderen in de averechte steken dus ook. Het tricotsteekdeel is het deel in tricotsteek naast het kantpatroon, dus inderdaad de 14 steken (in maat M). Het minderen in het averechte deel en het tricotsteekdeel gaat gelijk op, dus elke 4 cm 6 keer in totaal (de ene keer links, de andere keer rechts van het averechte deel)

country flag Joana 23.02.2021 - 21:11:

Olá, tenho uma dúvida no início do trabalho onde diz "Repetir as 2 primeiras carreiras de A.1 - A.3", "A.1-A.3" quer dizer de A.1 a A.3 ou A.1 e A.3 ?

country flag Diane Michaud 14.02.2021 - 15:43:

Je vais tenter de mieux me faire comprendre: pour chacune des tailles, le nombre de mailles à monter de plus d’une taille à l’autre est de 16 mailles : 222 + 16 =238 mailles ainsi de suite . Pour la taille XL , le nombre de mailles de plus est 32 mailles 254+32=286 . Le nombre de mailles à monter est il exact ?

user icon DROPS Design 15.02.2021 kl. 09:37:

Bonjour Mme Michaud, tout à fait, le nombre de mailles est exact et vous permettra d'obtenir les mesures du schéma, sur la base de l'échantillon - notez qu'après les 8 premiers cm de côtes et A.1-A.3, vous diminuerez et il ne restera que 216 mailles en taille XL. Bon tricot!

country flag Diane Michaud 11.02.2021 - 20:44:

Pourquoi le nombre de mailles passe de 254 à 286 modifiant l'intervalle de 16 mailles

user icon DROPS Design 12.02.2021 kl. 08:23:

Bonjour Mme Michaud, je ne suis pas sûre de bien comprendre votre question, quelle taille tricotez-vous? Vous commencez par 254 mailles en taille L et 286 mailles en taille XL, mais après avoir diminué dans les diagrammes et entre les diagrammes, il doit vous rester 196 mailles en L et 216 mailles en XL; En espérant que ceci puisse vous aider. Bon tricot!

country flag Inmaculada Santos Hernandez 05.12.2020 - 08:36:

Este jersey, entiendo que está formado por dos piezas,pues el cuello es independiente, gracias y felicidades por su trabajo.compre para hacerlo con dos hilos

country flag Inmaculada Santos 05.12.2020 - 08:34:

He realizado varios de sus trabajos,para mis hijas nietos y nietas,solo darles las gracias por su trabajo felicidades para todos,estoy encantada y pienso . Si mi madre lo pudiera ver....

country flag Inmaculada Santos 05.12.2020 - 08:28:

Este jersey, entiendo que está formado por dos piezas,pues el cuello es independiente, gracias y felicidades por su trabajo.compre para hacerlo con dos hilos

country flag Françoise Lemaire 27.10.2020 - 22:03:

Dans l'explication, il n'y a pas de côtes. Combien de cm de hauteur font les côtes du début du pull ?

user icon DROPS Design 28.10.2020 kl. 07:51:

Bonjour Mme Lemaire, le bas du pull commence par des côtes tricotées en 2 m end/2 m env et en suivant les 2 premiers tours des diagrammes A.1-A.3 conformément à la répartition des mailles indiquées - vous tricotez ainsi pendant 8 cm avant de tricoter les 2 derniers tours des diagrammes en diminuant en même temps (2ème paragraphe DOS & DEVANT). Bon tricot!

country flag Annette 17.10.2020 - 15:16:

Der står i opskriften, at man skal bruge pinde 5, Men jeg kan se, at man skal slå op på pinde 4 1/2, men jeg kan ikke se, at der står noget sted, at man skal skifte til pinde nr. 5. Mvh. Annette

user icon DROPS Design 19.10.2020 kl. 13:15:

Hei Annette. Du strikker vrangborden med diagram til arbeidet måler ca 8 cm, deretter strikkes de 2 siste omg i A.1 - A.3, SAMTIDIG felles det 10-10-14-20-18-16 m jevnt fordelt over de 30-38-46-62-70-78 m vrbord i hver side = 172-188-196-216-236-256 m. Så bytter du til rundp 5. Ved ermene strikkes det vrangbord i ca 10 cm før det byttes til pinne 5,0. God Fornøyelse!

country flag Birgit 20.09.2020 - 11:54:

Hallo. In der Skizze steht, dass der Saum 51 cm (Größe S) weit ist, man schlägt aber 222Maschen an, wobei 18 Maschen = 10cm sein sollen. Das ergibt allerdings eine Breite von 61 cm. Sind die 51cm dann ein Druckfehler? Ich komm nicht ganz genau auf Maschenprobe und bin daher darauf angewiesen es um zu rechnen - dafür muß ich allerdings sicher sein, dass die Angaben in der Skizze stimmen ;) Schon mal Danke im Vorraus.

user icon DROPS Design 21.09.2020 kl. 13:53:

Liebe Birgit, am Anfang braucht man viel mehr Maschen als für die Maschenprobe, denn mann Bündchen strickt - sollte Ihre Maschenprobe stimmen, dann werden die Maßnahmen in der Skizze stimmen. Mehr über Maschenprobe lesen Sie hier. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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