DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Snow Tracks

Knitted DROPS jumper with cables and detachable collar in ”Nepal”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 171-20
DROPS design: Pattern no ne-212
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
650-700-800-850-950-1050 g colour no 0501, grey

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 4.5 mm for rib - or size needed to get 18 sts x 20 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 st in each side of section in stocking st as follows:
K 1, slip next st as if to K, K 1, psso, work until 3 sts remain, K 2 tog, K 1.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc with 1 YO inside first and last st in stocking st, work the inc sts twisted on next round to avoid holes.

GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.
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JUMPER:
Worked in the round on circular needle.

BODY:
Cast on 222-238-254-286-302-318 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm with Nepal. K 1 round, then work as follows: * P 1, rib K 2/P 2 over the first 12-16-20-28-32-36 sts, K 2, A.1 (= 10 sts) A.2 (= 15 sts), P 2, A.3 (= 27 sts), P 2, A.2, A.1, K 2, rib P 2/K 2 over the next 12-16-20-28-32-36 sts, P 1 *, repeat from *-* 1 more time. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION

Repeat the first 2 rounds in A.1 - A.3 until piece measures 8 cm, then work the last 2 rounds in A.1 - A.3, AT THE SAME TIME dec 10-10-14-20-18-16 sts evenly over the 30-38-46-62-70-78 sts rib in each side = 172-188-196-216-236-256 sts. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm.

Then work as follows: * K 10-14-16-21-26-31, P 8, A.4 (= 12 sts), P 2, A.5 (= 22 sts), P 2, A.6 (= 12 m), P 8, K 10-14-16-21-26-31 *, repeat from *-* 1 more time.

When piece measures 10 cm, dec 1 st in every P section with P 8 and dec 1 st in each side of section in stocking st - READ DECREASE TIP (= 8 sts dec), dec the same way every 4 cm, 6 times in total, dec alternately on right and left side of P sections = 124-140-148-168-188-208 sts. When piece measures 34 cm, inc 1 st in every P section with a dec, and 1 st in every section in stocking st (= 8 sts inc) - READ INCREASE TIP, repeat inc when piece measures 46-47-48-49-50-51 cm = 140-156-164-184-204-224 sts. When piece measures 50-51-52-53-54-55 cm, work as follows from RS: Cast off the first 2-3-3-3-3-3 sts, work the next 66-72-76-86-96-106 sts as before, cast off the next 4-6-6-6-6-6 sts, work the next 66-72-76-86-96-106 sts as before and cast off the last 2-3-3-3-3-3 sts. Each part is worked separately back and forth on circular needle.

BACK PIECE:
= 66-72-76-86-96-106 sts. Continue pattern as before, AT THE SAME TIME continue to cast off in each side for armholes on every other row: Cast off 2 sts 0-1-1-2-3-4 times and 1 st 0-0-1-3-5-7 times = 66-68-70-72-74-76 sts. Continue the pattern as before. When piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm, cast off the middle 24-26-28-30-32-34 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. On next row cast off 1 st towards the neck = 20 sts remain on each shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm.

FRONT PIECE:
= 66-72-76-86-96-106 sts. Continue pattern as before and cast off for armholes as on back piece = 66-68-70-72-74-76 sts. Continue the pattern like this. When piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm, slip the middle 18-20-22-24-26-28 sts on a stitch holder for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then cast off on every row towards neck, 2 sts 1 time, 1 st 2 times = 20 sts remain on shoulder. Work sts that do not fit the pattern in stocking st. Cast off when piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 45-45-50-50-50-50 sts on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm with Nepal. K 1 round, then work rib = K 2/P 3. When rib measures 10 cm, K 1 round while dec 11-9-12-10-10-8 sts evenly = 34-36-38-40-40-42 sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 5 mm and continue in stocking st. Insert 1 marker at the beg of round. When piece measures 11 cm, inc 1 st on each side of marker, inc every 4-3½-3-2½-2-1½ cm a total of 9-10-11-13-15-17 times = 52-56-60-66-70-76 sts. When piece measures 47-47-47-46-45-44 cm (NOTE! Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of broader shoulders), cast off 6 sts mid under sleeve (= 3 sts on each side of marker), now finish piece back and forth on needle. Cast off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side as follows: 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 0-1-1-2-3-5 times, cast off 2 sts in each side of piece until piece measures 53-53-54-54-54-55 cm, cast off 3 sts in each side and cast off the remaining sts. Piece measures 54-54-55-55-55-56 cm in total.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up approx. 64 to 86 sts around the neck (incl sts on stitch holder) on a short circular needle size 5 mm with Nepal. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST – see explanation above, then cast off.

DETACHABLE COLLAR:
Cast on 108 sts on a short circular needle size 4.5 mm with grey. K 1 round, then work rib = K 2/P 2. Work rib for 25 cm, then cast off with K over K and P over P.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams and sew in sleeves.

Diagram

symbols = K from RS, P from WS


symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
symbols = P 2 tog
symbols = no stitch, skip this square
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (80)

country flag Ingarita Berggren wrote:

Hej Jag får inte ihop detta mönster Ska det inte stickas resår först och hur stickar man EM på avigsidan när man bara stickar runt Mvh ingarita Berggren

23.10.2019 - 11:47

DROPS Design answered:

Hej. Om du stickar som det står i mönstret från början dvs diagram A.1-A.3 så blir det resårstickning (det är för att det ska passa ihop med diagrammen över sen). Jag förstår inte riktigt vad du menar när du skriver sticka EM på avigsidan.. Mvh DROPS Design

23.10.2019 - 13:36

country flag Anne Schoemaker wrote:

Hallo, ik ben nu klaar met de boord in maat S. Het werk meet nu 9 cm maar ik heb al bijna 2 bollen op! Ik heb 14 bollen besteld (volgens beschrijving) maar ik vrees dat ik nooit uit ga komen hiermee. Klopt het aantal bollen dat beschreven is wel??

23.10.2019 - 11:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Anne,

Het aantal bollen dat je nodig hebt zou moeten kloppen. Er zijn ook geen opmerkingen hierover binnen gekomen bij mijn weten. De boord neemt natuurlijk altijd wat meer garen, als je met het patroon begint loopt het wat meer uit.

23.10.2019 - 20:20

country flag Chris De Bie wrote:

Vind het patroon heel mooi, maar ik zou hem liever met 2 breinaalden maken ipv rondbreinaald hebben jullie daar geen beschrijving van? Groetjes Chris

16.09.2019 - 21:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Chris,

Dit patroon is inderdaad wel geschikt om met rechte naalden te breien. We hebben een instructie gemaakt hoe je een patroon aanpast om met rechte naalden te kunnen breien. Deze vind je hier

17.09.2019 - 08:02

country flag Stefanie wrote:

Darf ich noch fragen, von wo bis wo der Rumpfteil verläuft? Werde nicht ganz schlau daraus, wie das alles zusammengehört. Lg und nochmals danke

30.08.2019 - 10:33

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Stephanie, der Rumpfteil wird in Runden ab untere Kante bis zum Armlöcher gestrickt, dann werden Vorder- und Rückenteil einzeln in Hin- und Rückreihen gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

30.08.2019 - 12:31

country flag Stefanie wrote:

Hallo, ich kenne mich beim Rumpfteil nicht aus. Da steht die 2 ersten Runden vom A.1-A.3 wiederholen, bis 8 cm erreicht sind. Soll da nicht die Runde wie oben beschrieben *-* wiederholt werden? Und müssen die 10 M in je 2 Runden abgenommen werden? Vielen Dank

29.08.2019 - 20:49

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Stefanie, ja genau, zuerst stricken Sie wie von *-* wie beschrieben mit den 2 ersten Reihen in A.1-A.3 bis 8 cm erreicht sind, dann stricken Sie wie von *-* beschrieben aber jetzt mit den 2 letzten Reihen in A.1-A.3 - Es werden 2 M in jedem A.1 + 3 M in jedem A.2 abgenommen (= mit 2 li zusammen). Viel Spaß beims tricken!

30.08.2019 - 09:15

country flag GOSIA wrote:

Mam problem z zamknięciem oczek po skończeniu ściągaczu. Wyszło mi8 oczek zamiast 10. Rozmiar s

20.02.2019 - 23:16

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Gosiu, napisz mi dokładniej, w którym to jest miejscu we wzorze.

21.02.2019 - 16:47

country flag Hanne Vinther wrote:

Hej drops. Jeg undrer mig over, at ved str. S. Skal man slå 222 m op og det kommer til at blive 130 cm hvis den måde jeg regner med det. Så 222/17= 130 cm - hvor mønsteret siger 102 cm. Dvs. At der er 28 cm større end mønsteret.

20.02.2019 - 18:57

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Hanne. Strikkefastheten er oppgitt i glattstrikk, og de tallene du regner med er de som brukes når det strikkes vrangbord. Vrangbord er mye mer elastisk enn glattstrikk, og trekker seg naturlig mer sammen når den henger rett, Derfor strikkes det med fler masker i vrangborden - for at det ikke skal være en drastisk viddeforskjell mellom vrangborden og resten av bolen. Etter vrangborden feller du til 172 masker. Deler du dette på 1,7 får du litt over 101cm. God fornøyelse

27.02.2019 - 11:54

Tini wrote:

Hola! No entiendo cómo se deben hacer las disminuciones una vez que la labor mide 10 cm. ¿En qué secciones debo aplicar el tip para disminuciones? ¿En los primeros 16 pts derechos al inicio de la vuelta?

14.12.2018 - 10:37

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Tini. Hay dos tipos de disminuciones: uno lo aplicamos a cada sección de 8 reveses ( hay cuatro secciones a lo largo de la vuelta), disminuyendo 1 punto trabajando 2 puntos juntos de revés. El otro tipo de disminución lo aplicamos al principio y al final de la secciones en punto jersey ( que son dos - uno en cada lateral). Estas disminuciones se trabajan según el Tip para las disminuciones explicado en el patrón.

15.12.2018 - 23:27

Stavroula wrote:

Hello DROPS - team. I'd like to knit this pullover for my daughter and I need to order the yarn for it. But it doesn't seem to have any instructions about the size. I mean how to find the right size for her? There is this diagram in the end with some measurements but it doesn't say if and how much of positive ease there is (I assume there is some positive ease on this pullover), etc. could you please help me by giving me some clearer instructions about the size? Thank you in advance.

04.11.2018 - 13:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Stavroula, measure on of her jumper she likes and compare to the measurement in the chart below (taken flat from side to side - in cm) - you will then adjust how much "positive ease" you'd like the jumper to be for her - read more about sizing here. Happy knitting!

05.11.2018 - 09:33

country flag Ilene Toller wrote:

I am getting ready to knit the front and back of the pattern; however, I am confused about the direction to bind off 2 stitches for the armholes when at the end of the row because it leaves one stitch after the bind off. Should this be cut and start knitting each side separately basically knitting back and forth on the circular needle for each side? Thank you for your help!

06.10.2018 - 04:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ilene, you re right, after you separate the stitches for back and front (at teh same time bind off the first couple of stitches to shape teh armhole, you have to cut the thread, move the yarn to the new first stitch of the row and knit the front and teh back separately, and flat (back and forth on the needle). Happy Knitting!

07.10.2018 - 23:10