DROPS Melody
71% Alpaca, 25% Wool, 4% Polyamide
from 6.35 $ /50g

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 44.45$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Warm Wine

Knitted DROPS oversized jumper with cables and turtle neck in ”Melody”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 172-36
DROPS design: Pattern no ml-018
Yarn group D or A + A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MELODY from Garnstudio
350-400-450-500-550-600 g color no 10, heather

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16" and 32") size 8 mm / US 11 - or size needed to get 12 sts x 14 rows in stockinette st = 4" x 4" (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16" and 32") size 7 mm / US 10.75 for rib - or size needed to get 13 sts x 15 rows in stockinette st = 4" x 4" (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Women Jumpers bottom up cable high neck madame oversized round neck sewn in sleeves

DROPS Melody
71% Alpaca, 25% Wool, 4% Polyamide
from 6.35 $ /50g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 44.45$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.8. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

INCREASE TIP-1 (applies to sleeve):
Beg 1 st before marker, make 1 YO, K 2 and make 1 YO. On next round K YOs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to neck):
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO in transition between K and P. On next round work YO twisted to avoid holes.
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JUMPER:
Work front and back piece back and forth on circular needle. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles.

BACK PIECE:
LOOSELY cast on 90-102-102-114-114-126 sts on circular needle size 7 mm / US 10.75 with Melody. P 1 row from WS. Work next row as follows from RS: 3 edge sts in GARTER ST – see explanation above, * K 3, P 3 *, repeat from *-* 0-1-1-2-2-3 times in total (i.e. in size S do not work K 3/P 3), work rib according to diagram A.1 (= 21 sts), work rib according to diagram A.2 (= 42 sts), work rib according to diagram A.1 (= 21 sts), * P 3, K 3 *, repeat from *-* 0-1-1-2-2-3 times in total (i.e. in size S do not work P 3/K 3) and finish with 3 edge sts in garter st. Continue rib like this until piece measures 12 cm / 4¾".
Work next row as follows from RS: 3 edge sts in garter st, K over the first 0-6-6-12-12-18 sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 0-4-1-4-1-4 sts evenly over these sts, work and dec according to diagram A.3 (one time), work and dec according to diagram A.4 (one time), work and dec according to diagram A.3 (one time), K the next 0-6-6-12-12-18 sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 0-4-1-4-1-4 sts evenly over these sts and finish with 3 edge sts in garter st = 70-74-80-86-92-98 sts. Switch to circular needle size 8 mm / US 11 and work back from WS with K over K, P over P and garter st over garter st, but sts in A.4 are worked as shown in diagram. Work next row as follows from RS: 3 edge sts in garter st, 0-2-5-8-11-14 sts in stockinette st, work and inc according to diagram A.5 (= 15 sts that inc to 21 sts), A.6 (= 34 sts that inc to 46 sts), A.5 (= 15 sts that inc to 21 sts), 0-2-5-8-11-14 sts in stockinette st and 3 edge sts in garter st = 94-98-104-110-116-122 sts on needle. Work back from WS with K over K, P over P and garter st over garter st.
Work next row as follows from RS: 3 edge st in garter st, 0-2-5-8-11-14 sts in stockinette st, A.7 (= 21 sts), A.8 (= 46 sts), A.7 (= 21 sts), 0-2-5-8-11-14 sts in stockinette st, 3 edge st in garter st. Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When piece measures 49-50-51-52-53-54 cm / 19¼"-19¾"-20"-20½"-21"-21¼", bind off the first 0-2-3-6-8-11 sts at beg of the next 2 rows for armholes = 94-94-98-98-100-100 sts (in size S do not bind off any sts but insert a marker in each side to mark armholes). Work next row as follows from RS: 3 edge sts in garter st, 0-0-2-2-3-3 sts in stockinette st, continue A.7, A.8 and A.7 as before, work 0-0-2-2-3-3 sts in stockinette st and 3 edge sts in garter st. Continue the pattern like this until 1 row remains before piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm / 26¾"-27½"-28⅜"-29⅛"-30"-30¾". Now work sts in cables in A.8 tog 2 by 2 (= 12 sts dec). On next row, bind off the middle 20-20-22-22-24-24 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue to bind off 1 st on next row from neck = 30-30-31-31-31-31 sts remain on the shoulder. Work until 1 row remain before piece measures 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm / 27½"-28⅜"-29⅛"-30"-30¾"-31½. Work sts in the remaining cables tog 2 by 2 (= 6 sts dec). On next row bind off the remaining 25-25-26-26-26-26 sts on shoulder (it is important to avoid a tight bind-off edge on shoulder). Repeat on the other shoulder.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as on back piece until 1 row remains before piece measures 64-66-67-69-70-72 cm / 25¼"-26"-26½"-27"-27½"-28½". Now work sts in cables in A.8 tog 2 by 2 (= 12 sts dec). On next row slip the middle 14-14-16-16-18-18 sts on 1 stitch holder for neck. Continue to bind off for neck at beg of every row from neck as follows: bind off 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2 times = 30-30-31-31-31-31 sts remain on shoulder. Work until 1 row remain before piece measures 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm / 27½"-28⅜"-29⅛"-30"-30¾"-31½. Work sts in the remaining cables tog 2 by 2 (= 6 sts dec). On next row bind off the remaining 25-25-26-26-26-26 sts on shoulder (it is important to avoid a tight bind-off edge). Repeat on the other shoulder.

SLEEVE:
Work in the round on double pointed needles, switch to circular needle when needed. Cast on 30-30-36-36-36-36 sts on double pointed needles size 7 mm / US 10.75 with Melody. K 1 round. Then work rib in the round = K 3/P 3 for 10 cm / 4". K 1 round while at the same time dec 2-2-6-6-4-4 sts evenly = 28-28-30-30-32-32 sts. Insert 1 marker at beg of round = mid under sleeve. Switch to double pointed needles size 8 mm / US 11 and work in stockinette st. When piece measures 11-11-11-13-13-11 cm / 4½"-4½"-4½"-5"-5"-4½", inc 2 sts mid under sleeve - READ INCREASE TIP-1. Inc like this every 3½-3-3-2-2-2 cm / 1¼"-1"-1"-¾"-¾"-¾" 10-11-11-13-13-14 times in total = 48-50-52-56-58-60 sts. When piece measures 45-44-42-41-40-39 cm / 17¾"-17¼"-16½"-16"-15¾"-15¼", insert 1 marker at the beg of round. Then work piece back and forth on circular needle until sleeve measures 45-46-45-46-47-48 cm / 17¾"-18"-17¾"-18"-18½"-19" (i.e. approx. 0-2-3-5-7-9 cm / 0-¾"-1"-2"-2¾"-3½" from marker), bind off (make sure to avoid a tight bind-off edge). Make another sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside bind-off edge. Sew side seams sew edge to edge - sew in outer loops of edge sts to get a flat seam (make sure to avoid a tight seam) BUT stop when approx. 20 cm / 8" remain in each side (= vent). Place sleeve in under edge in garter st along armhole (marker on sleeve should fit with side on body at marker). Sew neatly along armhole (edge in garter st along armhole should be on top of sleeve) and in bottom of armhole from marker and in towards garment.

NECK:
Pick up from RS approx. 50 to 64 sts around the neck (includes sts on stitch holder at the front) on short circular needle size 7 mm / US 10.75. K 1 round while inc evenly to 66-66-72-72-78-78 sts. Work rib in the round (= K 3/P 3). When neck measures 10 cm / 4", inc all K 3 to K 4 - READ INCREASE TIP-2 = 77-77-84-84-91-91 sts. When neck measures 20 cm / 8", inc all K 4 to K 5 = 88-88-96-96-104-104 sts. When neck measures 22 cm / 8¾", inc all P 3 to P 4 = 99-99-108-108-117-117 sts. Continue rib K 5/P 4 until neck measures 27-27-28-28-29-29 cm / 10½"-10½"-11"-11"-11½"-11½". LOOSELY bind off sts with K over K and P over P - NOTE: Make 1 YO after approx. every 9th st while binding off (bind off YOs as sts) to make the bind-off edge more elastic (bind off YOs as normal sts).

This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.

Updated online: 25.08.2017
BACK PIECE:...Switch to circular needle size 8 mm/US 11 and work back from WS with K over K, P over P and garter st over garter st, but sts in A.4 are worked as shown in diagram...

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

	= K from RS, P from WS
	= P from RS, K from WS
	= work 2 sts in same st (= 1 st inc)
	= slip 4 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 4, K 4 from cable needle
	= slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K 4, P 1 from cable needle
	= slip 4 st on cable needle in front of piece, P 1, K 4 from cable needle
	= slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
	= slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
	= K 2 tog
	= P 2 tog
	= P 3 tog

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (25)

Carolyn wrote:

I am working on back to the point of ...”Now work sts in cables in A.8 tog 2 by 2 (= 12sts dec)” I’m confused - can you clarify ? Of the 6 cables in A8 I should knit 2tog twice in each cable? Thanks!

24.01.2019 - 14:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Carolyn, you have to decrease 12 stitches over the cables in A.8: there are 8 sts in each cable in A.8, K these 8 sts tog (= K2 tog x 4 ) = 4 sts remain and 4 sts have been decreased, repeat this over all 3 cables in A.8 = 12 sts have been decreased. Happy knitting!

24.01.2019 - 16:57

Ellen Anne Sormerud wrote:

Hvor kommer rettelsen inn? Rett etter 12 cm vr. bord?

24.08.2018 - 09:55

Hej Ellen, opskriften på nettet er rettet, så hvis du har skrevet den ud efter 25/8-2017 så er opskriften rigtig. God fornøjelse!

30.08.2018 - 13:59

Marie wrote:

Bonjour, je me demandais si avant le 70 cm de longueur (taille medium) si on pouvais diminuer dans les torsade de A.8 2 par 2 à n'importe quel rang ou si cela est à un rang spécifique parce que diminuer dans un rang ou on est rendu a faire un torsade cela ne doit pas être évident. merci a l'avance.

27.09.2017 - 19:51

Bonjour Marie, oui, peu importe le rang, ce qui compte c'est de diminuer le nombre de mailles de la torsade pour conserver la bonne largeur quand on va rabattre les mailles (si on ne diminuait pas, les épaules seraient trop larges). Bon tricot!

28.09.2017 - 09:39

Bonjour, une petite question, est-ce quand A.8 est fini en hauteur, on recommence en bas. merci

05.09.2017 - 19:52

Bonjour Marie, oui tout à fait, on reprend au 1er rang. Bon tricot!

06.09.2017 - 09:05

Bonjour, j'ai tricoter 3 m POINT MOUSSE , 3 m end, 3 m env, A.1 (= 21 m), puis celles du diagramme A.2 (= 42 m), puis celles de A.1 (= 21 m), 3 m env, 3 m end , et terminer par 3 m point mousse pour la taille médium , est- ce correct que le rang du retour soit 3 mailles end ./ 3 mailles env. et finir par 3 mailles env. / 3 mailles end. car après mes 12 cm je me retrouve avec 9 maille point mousse de chaque coté de A1

03.09.2017 - 23:55

Bonjour Marie, les 3 m end/3 m env après les 3 premières mailles point mousse et avant les 3 dernières mailles point mousse se tricotent en côtes, vous avez ainsi bien 3 m point mousse de chaque côté. Bon tricot!

04.09.2017 - 11:00

France wrote:

Bonjour, je ne comprend pas c'est écrit: tricoter et diminuer en suivant le diagramme A3 (une fois) tricoter et diminuer en suivant le diagramme A4 (une fois) .. ou faut-il diminuer?? il y a quand même 28 diminutions.

25.08.2017 - 17:18

Bonjour, les diminutions sont inclues dans les schemats A.3 et A.4. Donc tricoter (et diminuer) en suivant le diagramme A.3 (1 fois), tricoter (et diminuer) en suivant le diagramme A.4 (1 fois), tricoter (et diminuer) en suivant le diagramme A.3 (1 fois)... Bon tricot!

25.08.2017 - 22:37

MARIE wrote:

Bonjour,, je ne sais pas trop ou diminuer apres les 12cm. diminuer au dessus de ces mailles, au dessus de quelles mailles , merci

25.08.2017 - 14:43

Bonjour Marie. Par example, dans la taille M, en même temp que vous tricotez 6 m end, vous diminuez 4 m dans ces 6 m (le 6 m end deviennent donc 2 m end). Bon tricot!

25.08.2017 - 15:13

Ingeborg wrote:

Hvilken størrelse har modellen på seg? Bruker alle garnstudio modeller den ene størrelsen? mvh Ingeborg

25.04.2017 - 00:40

Hei Ingeborg. Vanligvis blir plaggene strikket opp i størrelse S (eller M). For å finne hvilken størrelse som du ønsker, må man se på målskissen helt nederst på siden. Om det er flere modeller som bruker det samme plagget, er det som regel den ene størrelsen som er blitt strikket opp.

25.04.2017 - 08:14

Castagna wrote: