DROPS / 172 / 4

Melody of Snow by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket with cables and hood in ”Melody”. Size XS/S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no ml-017
Yarn group D or A + A + A
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Size: XS/S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MELODY from Garnstudio
400-450-500-550-600-650 g color no 03, pearl gray

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') size 8 mm / US 11 - or size needed to get 12 sts x 14 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') size 7 mm / US 10.75 for rib - or size needed to get 13 sts x 15 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

71% Alpaca, 25% Wool, 4% Polyamide
from 4.40 $ /50g
DROPS Melody uni colour DROPS Melody uni colour 4.40 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 35.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.10. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

DECREASE TIP (applies to in the sides on front and back piece):
Dec 1 st inside 3 edge sts in garter st.
All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows after 3 edge sts: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec as follows before 3 edge st: Beg 2 sts before the 3 edge sts and K 2 tog.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Beg 1 st before marker, make 1 YO, K 2 and make 1 YO. On next round K YOs twisted to avoid holes.
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JACKET:
Work front and back piece back and forth on circular needle in sections. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/short circular needle.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 86-96-96-106-116-126 sts on circular needle size 7 mm / US 10.75 with Melody. P 1 row from WS. Work next row as follows from RS: 3 edge sts in GARTER ST – see explanation above, * K 2, P 3 *, repeat from *-* 3-4-4-5-6-7 times in total, K 2, work rib according to diagram A.1 (= 46 sts), * K 2, P 3 *, repeat from *-* 3-4-4-5-6-7 times in total and finish with K 2 and 3 edge sts in garter st. Continue rib like this. When piece measures 6-6-6-8-8-8 cm / 2½"-2½"-2½"-3"-3"-3'', work next row as follows from RS: 3 edge sts in garter st, K over the next 17-22-22-27-32-37 sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 5-7-5-6-7-9 sts evenly over these sts, work and dec according to diagram A.2 (= 46 sts dec to 38 sts), K the next 17-22-22-27-32-37 sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 5-7-5-6-7-9 sts evenly over these sts and finish with 3 edge sts in garter st = 68-74-78-86-94-100 sts. Switch to circular needle size 8 mm / US 11 and work back from WS with K over K, P over P and garter st over garter st but sts in A.2 are worked as shown in diagram A.2.
Work next row as follows from RS: 3 edge sts in garter st, 12-15-17-21-25-28 sts in stockinette st, work and inc according to diagram A.3 (= 38 sts inc to 46 sts), 12-15-17-21-25-28 sts in stockinette st and 3 edge sts in garter st = 76-82-86-94-102-108 sts. Work back from WS with K over K, P over P and garter st over garter st but sts in A.3 are worked as shown in diagram A.3.
Work next row as follows from RS: 3 edge sts in garter st, 12-15-17-21-25-28 sts in stockinette st, A.4 (= 46 sts), 12-15-17-21-25-28 sts in stockinette st, 3 edge sts in garter st. Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When piece measures 10-10-10-11-11-11 cm / 4"-4"-4"-4½"-4½"-4½", dec 1 st in each side - READ DECREASE TIP. Dec like this every 6-6-6-5-5-5 cm / 2 ½"-2½"-2½"-2"-2"-2" a total of 7-7-7-8-8-8 times in each side = 62-68-72-78-86-92 sts. When piece measures 60-61-62-63-64-65 cm / 23 5/8''-24''-24 3/8''-24¾''-25¼''-25½'', bind off for armholes at the beg of every row in each side as follows: bind off 3 sts 0-0-1-1-2-2 times, 2 sts 1-1-1-1-2-2 times and 1 st 1-3-1-4-2-4 times = 56-58-60-60-62-64 sts remain on needle. Continue with pattern, stockinette st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side until 1 row remains before piece measures 78-80-82-84-86-88 cm / 30¾''-31½''-32¼''-33''-33 7/8''-34 5/8''. On next row work sts in each cable K tog 2 by 2 (from RS = 12 sts dec) = 44-46-48-48-50-52 sts remain on needle. Then bind off the middle 12-12-14-14-16-16 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue pattern and bind off 1 st on next row from neck = 15-16-16-16-16-17 sts remain on the shoulder. Continue with K over K, P over P and garter st over garter st until piece measures 80-82-84-86-88-90 cm / 31½''-32¼''-33''-33 7/8''-34 5/8''-35½'' and bind off (make sure to avoid a tight bind-off edge). Repeat on the other shoulder.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 72-77-77-82-87-92 sts on circular needle size 7 mm / US 10.75 and P 1 row from WS. Work next row as follows from RS: Work rib according to diagram A.5 (= 32 sts), * K 2, P 3 *, repeat from *-* until 5 sts remain on needle, finish with K 2 and 3 edge sts in garter st. Continue rib like this. When piece measures 6-6-6-8-8-8 cm / 2½"-2½-"2½"-3"-3"-3", work next row as follows from RS: Work and dec according to diagram A.6 (= 32 sts dec to 30 sts), P the next 20 sts and dec AT THE SAME TIME 3 sts evenly over these sts, K the next 17-22-22-27-32-37 sts and dec AT THE SAME TIME 5-7-5-6-7-9 sts evenly over these sts and finish with 3 edge sts in garter st = 62-65-67-71-75-78 sts. Switch to circular needle size 8 mm / US 11 and work back from WS with K over K, P over P and garter st over garter st, but sts in A.6 are worked as shown in diagram A.6.
Work next row as follows from RS: Work A.7 (= 30 sts), P 17, K 12-15-17-21-25-28 and 3 edge sts in garter st. Continue pattern like this. When piece measures 10-10-10-11-11-11 cm / 4"-4"-4"-4½"-4½"-4½" beg dec in the side and dec as on back piece = 55-58-60-63-67-70 sts. When piece measures 60-61-62-63-64-65 cm / 23 5/8''-24''-24 3/8''-24¾''-25¼''-25½'', beg bind off for armhole and bind off in the side as on back piece = 52-53-54-54-55-56 sts remain on needle. Continue pattern with 1 edge sts in garter st towards armhole until piece measures 74-76-77-79-80-82 cm / 29"-30"-30½"-31"-31½"-32 1/4". Now bind off the outermost 32-32-33-33-34-34 sts at beg of row from mid front for neck. Continue to bind off for neck at the beg of every row from mid front as follows: bind off 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 3 times = 15-16-16-16-16-17 sts remain on needle. Continue with K over K, P over P and garter st over garter st until piece measures 80-82-84-86-88-90 cm / 31½''-32¼''-33''-33 7/8''-34 5/8''-35½'' and bind off (make sure to avoid a tight bind-off edge).

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on as on right front piece and work as right front piece but reversed. I.e. at beg of piece P 1 row from WS. Work next row as follows from RS: 3 edge sts in garter st, * K 2, P 3 *, repeat from *-* 7-8-8-9-10-11 times in total, K 2 and finish with rib according to diagram A.8 (= 32 sts). When piece measures 6-6-6-8-8-8 cm / 2½"-2½"-2½"-3"-3"-3", work next row as follows from RS: 3 edge sts in garter st, K the next 17-22-22-27-32-37 and dec AT THE SAME TIME 5-7-5-6-7-9 sts evenly over these sts, P the next 20 sts and dec AT THE SAME TIME 3 sts evenly over these sts and work and dec according to diagram A.9 (= 32 sts dec to 30 sts) = 62-65-67-71-75-78 sts. Switch to circular needle size 8 mm / US 11 and work back from WS with K over K, P over P and garter st over garter st but sts in A.9 are worked as shown in diagram A.9. Work next row as follows from RS: 3 edge sts in garter st, K 12-15-17-21-25-28, P 17 and A.10 over the last 30 sts. Then work as right front piece.

SLEEVE:
Work in the round on double pointed needles, switch to a short circular needle when needed.
Cast on 35-35-35-35-40-40 sts on double pointed needles size 7 mm / US 10.75 with Melody. K 1 round, then work rib in the round = K 2/P 3. When rib measures 10-10-10-12-12-12 cm / 4"-4"-4"-4 3/4"-4 3/4"-4 3/4", K 1 round while dec 11-9-7-7-10-8 sts evenly = 24-26-28-28-30-32 sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 8 mm / US 11 and work in stockinette st in the round. When piece measures 13 cm / 5'', inc 2 sts mid under sleeve - READ INCREASE TIP". Inc like this every 4-3½-3½-3-2½-2½ cm / 1½"-1 1/4"-1 1/4"-1"-7/8"-7/8" 9-10-10-12-13-13 times in total = 42-46-48-52-56-58 sts. When piece measures 49-48-47-47-45-44 cm / 19 1/4"-19"-18½"-18½"-17 3/4"-17 1/4", bind off the middle 6 sts mid under sleeve and work sleeve cap back and forth until finished measurements on circular needle. Continue with stockinette st and bind off at beg of every row in each side as follows: bind off 2 sts 1-2-2-2-3-3 times and 1 st 1 time, then bind off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 55-55-55-56-56-56 cm / 21½"-21½"-21½"-22"-22"-22" before binding off 3 sts 1 time in each side. Bind off the remaining sts, piece measures approx. 56-56-56-57-57-57 cm / 22"-22"-22"-22½"-22½"-22½". Make another sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in the sleeves inside 1 edge st.

HOOD:
Pick up from RS approx. 90 to 100 sts around the neck on circular needle size 8 mm / US 11. P 1 row from WS while inc evenly to 120-122-124-126-128-130 sts – NOTE: K the 2 outermost sts in each side and do not inc over these sts. Work next row as follows from RS: Work pattern according to diagram A.7 (= 30 sts - continue repetition where it ended after neck dec), work in stockinette st until 30 sts remain and finish with pattern according to diagram A.10 (= 30 sts – continue where it ended after neck dec). Continue back and forth like this until hood measures 34-35-36-37-38-39 cm / 13 3/8''-13¾''-14¼''-14½''-15''-15¼''. On next row from RS work sts in cables K tog two by two (= 12 sts dec in each side = 96-98-100-102-104-106 sts remain on needle). On next row bind off all sts (make sure to avoid a tight bind-off edge). Fold the hood double and sew tog at the top with grafting/kitchener sts.

TIES:
Cut 1 strand Melody of 1 meter/1.25 yds, twine strand until it resist, fold strand double and it will twine again. Make a knot at each end. Thread tie through cable at the edge on right front piece approx. 34-36-38-40-42-44 cm / 13 3/8''-14¼''-15''-15¾''-16½''-17 ¼'' from shoulder and down (or desired length). Make another tie and fasten it the same way on left front piece. Close the jacket by tying the two ties tog.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= work 2 sts in same st (= 1 st inc)
= slip 4 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 4, K 4 from cable needle
= slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K 4, P 1 from cable needle
= slip 4 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P 1, K 4 from cable needle
= slip 3 st on cable needle behind piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
= slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 3, K 3 from cable needle
= K 2 tog
= P 2 tog




Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 172-4) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (32)

Elna 15.11.2019 - 22:53:

Hej Kan der evt. Være fejl i diagram A2? Jeg kan simpelthen ikke få det til at første række i A2 til at passe sammen med række 2 i A2.det ser ud til at der er strikket masker over dem som er taget ind.🤔

DROPS Design 19.11.2019 kl. 13:32:

Hej Elna, på første række i A.2 tager du 8 masker ind ifølge opskriften. På næste række har du kun 38 masker tilbage og de strikkes ifølge 2.række i A.2. God fornøjelse!

Karina Karoline Mikalsen Sjöblom 17.07.2019 - 22:00:

Hei, lurer på om det finnes noe alternativt garn istedenfor Meldoy garnet? Jeg vil veldig gjerne strikke denne, men er ikke noe glad i mohair lignende garn. Håper på noen gode tips på annet garn jeg kan bruke

DROPS Design 18.07.2019 kl. 07:31:

Hei Karina Karoline, Du kan bruke andre garn fra gruppe D eller garn fra gruppe A; da må du strikke med 3 tråder samtidig. Det er en god ide å sjekke strikkefasthet på en prøvelapp før du begynner. God fornøyelse!

Sine 09.04.2019 - 18:07:

.... Jeg har strikket begge ærmer, så de nu måler 57 cm, og de passer langt fra (ca. 12 cm) sammen med bag- og forstykker. Jeg håber, I forstår, hvad jeg mener og kan hjælpe. (Jeg har prøvet at få en veninde, der strikker meget, til at kigge på opskriften samt på mit strikketøj, og hun kan heller ikke få det til at gå op...) Mvh Sine

DROPS Design 11.04.2019 kl. 11:30:

... Når du skal sy ermet fast i bolen er det lurt å feste det med knappenåler først slik at du er sikker på det blir sydd på riktig. Det vil ofte virke som at ermet er mindre enn åpningen, og avfellingsmaskene virker som de ikke passer med maskene på bolen, men det blir pent tilslutt. God fornøyelse

Sine 09.04.2019 - 18:06:

Hej igen. Jeg henviser til mit spørgsmål af 1/4-19. Jeg forstår ikke, hvordan jeg skal få ærmestykkerne til at passe med for- og bagstykkerne, når der fra indtagningen på ærmerne til ærmekuplen (45 cm i str. XL) til slutningen på ærmekuplen (57 cm) er 12 cm, mens der på både bag- og forstykker fra starten af aflukning til ærmegab (når arb. måler 64 cm) til slutningen af aflukning af bag- og forstykker (88 cm) er 24 cm? Mere tekst følger...

DROPS Design 11.04.2019 kl. 11:29:

Hei Sine. Er det åpningen i ermet ditt som måler 12 cm øverst, altså er omkretsen på ermet 24 cm rundt hele? Da har du i så fall enten for få masker, eller for stram strikkefasthet. Før du feller av 6 masker under ermet har du 52 masker på pinnen. Dvs at med en strikkefasthet på 12 masker i bredden = 10 cm, måler ermet 43 cm rundt, eller 21 cm tvers over når det ligger flatt. Når du feller av med ermtopp blir denne åpningen noe større enn om du hadde felt av alle masker på samme omgang, så du vil få ytterligere noen cm større åpning. Forklaring fortsetter over...

Sine 01.04.2019 - 16:31:

Hvordan syr man jakken sammen? Der mangler forklaring... Og hvor mange masker skal man have tilbage på pinden, når man lukker de sidste masker af på ærmerne (når ærmerne måler 57 cm)? Jeg strikker i str. XXL. På forhånd tak for hjælpen. Mvh. Sine

DROPS Design 05.04.2019 kl. 14:27:

Hej Sine, det kommer an på hvor mange pinde du har strikket imellem de 45 cm og indtagningerne til du når de 56 cm. Når man tager ind på beg af hver pind, bliver ærmekuplen pæn afrundet. Du monterer ved at sy skuldersøm, ærmesøm og sidesømmen sammen. God fornøjelse!

Ensikertalainen 15.03.2019 - 16:38:

Miten kädenteiden päättely käytännössä tehdään? (koko xs/s)

DROPS Design 11.04.2019 kl. 17:17:

Hei, koossa XS/S päätetään kädenteitä varten seuraavasti: Aluksi päätät kummastakin reunasta 2 silmukkaa kerran ja sitten päätät kummastakin reunasta 1 silmukan kerran.

Yvonne Broholm 22.02.2019 - 20:29:

Der står ikke, at sidesømmene skal syes sammen. Det må være en forglemmelse.

Sine 15.02.2019 - 12:47:

Hej. Er det muligt at strikke denne cardigan i Drops Air eller en blanding af Drops Air og DROPS BRUSHED Alpaca Silk? Mvh Sine Askbo

DROPS Design 19.02.2019 kl. 15:07:

Hei Stine. Det vil nok være vanskelig å strikke denne i Air, da den angitte strikkefastheten er 12 m x 14 p = 10 x 10 cm. Du kan eventuelt strikke med 2 tråder fra garngruppe B, da dette vil tilsvare strikkefastheten til Melody (garngruppe D). Hva med feks Sky? God fornøyelse

Gry 18.08.2018 - 18:21:

Hei,hvorfor lages mange modeller slik at delene strikkes hver for seg (forstykker og rygg)? Det er jo enklere å strikke alle i ett stykke og sette av masker til ermehull? Det gjør jo også montering enklere :-)

DROPS Design 30.08.2018 kl. 15:06:

Hej Gry, vi udgår altid fra hvordan modellen bliver pænest. Ud over det forsøger vi at lave modellerne så alle kan finde sin favoritmodel. Nogle vil helst strikke oppefra og ned andre modsat. Nogle vil strikke frem og tilbage andre vil strikke rundt osv. Vi håber at du også finder dine favoritter. God fornøjelse :)

Jadran 13.06.2018 - 21:12:

Liebes Drops Design Team, es wäre sehr nett, wenn Sie mir etwas ausführlicher die Anleitung für die Kapuze schreiben könnten. Leider verstehe ich nicht, wo ich damit genau anfange? Vielen Dank im Voraus und herzliche Grüße

DROPS Design 14.06.2018 kl. 08:29:

Liebe Julie, für die Kapuze fassen Sie die Maschen um den Halsausschnitt so aus: (bei einer Hinreihe) 1 M in jeder den abgeketteten Maschen am rechten Vorderteil, dann Maschen aus dem Halsausschnitt weiter auffassen (Vorderteil dann am Rückenteil und endlich am linken Vorderteil) bis die abgeketteten Maschen am linken Vorderteil auffassen = ca 90-100 M. 1 Rück-R li mit 2 M re auf beiden Seiten stricken und dabei die Maschenanzahl anpassen, und dann A.7 über die ersten 30 Maschen und A.10 über die letzten 30 Maschen wie zuvor am beiden Vorderteilen weiterstricken, die restlichen Maschen zwischen A.7 und A.10 werden dann glatt gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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