DROPS / 169 / 26

Seashore Bliss Top by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS top with lace pattern and round yoke in ”Muskat”. The piece is worked top down. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no r-698
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
400-450-500-550-600-650 g color no 18, white

DROPS CROCHET Hook size 4 mm / G/6 – or size needed to get 18 dc x 9 rows = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

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from 3.00 $ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 3.00 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Diagram A.4 shows how round beg and ends.

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first dc at beg of every dc round with 3 ch. Finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round.
Replace first sc at beg of every sc round with 1 ch. Finish every round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 dc by working 2 dc in same dc.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 dc by working 2 dc tog as follows: Work 1 dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), then work next dc but on last pull through, pull yarn through all 3 sts on hook.

TIP ARMHOLE:
Size S, M and XL: In the last repeat of A.1 before marker 1 and marker 3 (= beginning of armhole), replace the last chain stitch with a double crochet in the last stitch of the same repeat on previous row.

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TOP:
The piece is worked top down. NOTE: It is important to keep the crochet gauge vertically so that the measurements on yoke will be correct.

YOKE:
Work 108-108-117-117-124-124 ch on hook size 4 mm / G/6 with Muskat and form 1 ring with 1 sl st in first ch. Work first round as follows: Work 3 ch (= 1 dc) - READ CROCHET INFO, 1 dc in each of the next 3-3-5-5-5-5 ch, * skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 94-94-102-102-108-108 dc. Work 1 round with 1 dc in every dc and inc 18-18-22-22-28-40 dc evenly - READ INCREASE TIP = 112-112-124-124-136-148 dc. Work next round and insert 8 markers in the piece as follows: A.4 shows how round beg and ends. Insert 1st marker at beg of round, work A.2 over the first 4 dc, insert 2nd marker, A.1 over the next 12 dc (= 2 times in width), insert 3rd marker, A.2 over the next 4 dc, insert 4th marker, work A.1 over the next 36-36-42-42-48-54 dc (= 6-6-7-7-8-9 times in width), insert 5th marker, A.2 over the next 4 dc, insert 6th marker, A.1 over the next 12 dc (= 2 times in width), insert 7th marker, A.2 over the next 4 dc, insert 8th marker, A.1 over the last 36-36-42-42-48-54 dc (= 6-6-7-7-8-9 times in width). REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!

SIZE XXL-XXXL:
On 5th round (round with dc) in A.1 inc evenly as follows: Between 2nd and 3rd marker and 6th and 7th marker: Inc 6-6 dc. 12-12 dc have been inc in total on round (= 18-18 dc between 2nd and 3rd marker and 6th and 7th marker). Repeat A.1 3-3 times between 2nd and 3rd marker and between 6th and 7th marker:

ALL SIZES:
On 6th round (round with dc) in A.1 inc evenly as follows:
Between 2nd and 3rd marker and 6th and 7th marker: Inc 0-0-6-6-6-6 dc (= 12-12-18-18-24-24 dc between these markers).
Between 4th and 5th marker and 8th and 1st marker: Inc 0-6-6-6-6-6 dc (= 36-42-48-48-54-60 dc between each of these markers). Then repeat diagram A.1 2-2-3-3-4-4 times between 2nd and 3rd marker, 6-7-8-8-9-10 times between 4th and 5th marker, 2-2-3-3-4-4 times between 6th and 7th marker and 6-7-8-8-9-10 times between 8th and 1st marker. Work A.2 as before.

SIZE XL-XXL-XXXL:
On 8th round (round with dc) in A.1 inc evenly as follows:
Between 4th and 5th marker and 8th and 1st marker: Inc 6-6-6 dc (= 54-60-66 dc between each of these markers).
12-12-12 dc have been inc in total on round. Repeat A.1 9-10-11 times between 4th and 5th marker and between 8th and 1st marker. Repeat inc on 10th round in A.1 (= 60-66-72 dc between each of these markers). Repeat diagram A.1 10-11-12 times between 4th and 5th marker and between 8th and 1st marker.

ALL SIZES:
On last round in A.2 insert 1 new marker in the middle of each A.2 (i.e. 18 dc on each side of marker in A.2 = 4 markers). Remove the old markers (= 4 markers remain in piece). Sts between markers are for sleeves (= 48-48-54-54-60-60 dc on each sleeve). When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 240-252-276-300-324-336 dc on round. Yoke is now done in size S.

SIZE M-L-XL-XXL-XXXL:
Continue with pattern A.1 as before but over dc in A.2 (= 36 dc) work A.3 2 times in total in width (marker is in the middle of these repetitions). Work 1-2-3-4-5 rounds of A.3 (see arrow in diagram for correct size). Piece now measures 17-18-19-20-21-22 cm / 6¾''-7''-7½''-8''-8¼''-8¾'' vertically.

ALL SIZES:
Work A.1a (see arrow on where pattern beg in the different sizes) 3 times in total in width until first marker - SEE ARMHOLE TIP, work 8-8-8-10-10-10 ch, skip sts between the 2 markers (= sleeve), work A.1a 12-13-14-16-17-18 times in total in width until next marker (= front piece), work 8-8-8-10-10-10 ch, skip sts between the 2 markers (= sleeve), work A.1a 9-10-11-13-14-15 times in total in width (= 160-172-184-212-224-236 sts). Fasten off.

BODY:
Beg round mid under sleeve as follows:

Size S-L:
Work 1 sl st in 5th ch, ch 1, work 1 sc in each of the next 3-3 ch, work A.1a as before until ch under 2nd sleeve, 1 sc in each of the 8-8 ch under sleeve, work A.1a as before the rest of round. Work the 8-8 sts under each sleeve as 1st st in A.1a.

SIZE M-XL-XXL-XXXL:
Work 1 sl st in 5th ch, ch 3, work 1 dc in each of the next 3-5-5-5 ch, work A.1a as before until ch under 2nd sleeve, 1 dc in each of the 8-10-10-10 ch under sleeve, work A.1a as before the rest of round. Work the 8-10-10-10 sts under each sleeve as 1st st in A.1a.

ALL SIZES:
Insert 1 marker in piece, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. On first round with dc dec 4-4-4-2-2-2 dc evenly - READ DECREASE TIP = 156-168-180-210-222-234 dc. Then repeat A.1a 26-28-30-35-37-39 times in width. Repeat A.1a vertically. When piece measures 12 cm / 4¾'', adjust so that next round is with dc, dec 6 dc evenly = 150-162-174-204-216-228 dc. Now repeat A.1a 25-27-29-34-36-38 times in width.

SIZE XL:
Repeat dec when piece measures 16 cm / 6 1/4'' from marker = 198 dc. Now repeat A.1a 33 times in width.

ALL SIZES:
When piece measures 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm / 8''-8¼''-8¾''-9''-9½''-9¾'' from marker – adjust so that next round is with dc, inc 6 dc evenly. Repeat inc every 2-2-1½-1½-1½-1½ cm / 3/4"-3/4"-½"-½"-½"-½ 5-5-7-7-7-7 more times = 186-198-222-246-264-276 dc. Repeat A.1a 1 more in width on every inc. When all inc are done, repeat A.1a 31-33-37-41-44-46 times in width. Work until piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm / 14¼''-14½''-15''-14 1/4''-15¾''-16 1/8'' from marker, adjust to finish nicely according to pattern. Fasten off.

SLEEVE EDGE:
SIZE S:
Beg by working mid under sleeve as follows: Work 1 sl st in 4th ch of the 8 ch worked in armhole on body. Work 1 ch (= 1 sc). Then work with 1 sc in each of the next ch 4, work A.3 over the next 18 dc, work A.1 (adjust pattern according to A.3) 2 times in total in width as before, work A.3 over the next 18 dc, finish with 1 sc in each of the last 3 ch. Work as 1st st in A.3 in the 8 sts under sleeve. On last round in A.3 dec 10 dc evenly = 46 dc.

SIZE M-XL-XXL:
Beg by working mid under sleeve as follows: Work 1 sl st in 4th ch of the 8-10-10 ch worked in armhole on body. Work 3 ch (= 1 dc). Then work with 1 dc in each of the next 4-6-6 ch, work A.3 as before, work A.1 (adjust pattern according to A.3) 2-3-4 times in total in width as before, work A.3, finish with 1 dc in each of the last 3 ch. Work as 1st st in A.3 in the 8-10-10 sts under sleeve.
On last round in A.3 dec 10 dc evenly = 46-54-60 dc.

SIZE L:
Beg by working mid under sleeve as follows: Work 1 sl st in 4th ch of the 8 ch worked in armhole on body. Work 1 ch (= 1 sc). Then work 1 sc in each of the next ch 4, work A.3 as before, work A.1 (adjust pattern according to A.3) 3 times in total in width as before, work A.3, finish with 1 sc in each of the last 3 ch. Work as 1st st in A.3 in the 8 sts under sleeve. On last round in A.3 dec 10 dc evenly = 52 dc.

SIZE XXXL:
Beg by working mid under sleeve as follows: Work 1 sl st in 4th ch of the 10 ch worked in armhole on body. Work 3 ch (= 1 dc). Then work 1 dc in each of the next ch 6, work 1 dc in each of the 60 dc, finish with 1 dc in each of the last 3 ch. Work 1 dc in every dc and dec 10 dc evenly = 60 dc.

ALL SIZES:
Work * 1 sc in first/next dc, 1 ch, skip approx. 1 cm / 3/8'' *, repeat from *-* around the entire sleeve. Fasten off. Work the other sleeve the same way.

NECK EDGE:
Crochet an edge around the neck. Beg mid back. Work * 1 sc in first/next dc, ch 3, skip approx. 1 cm / 3/8'' *, repeat from *-* around the entire neck. Make sure to avoid a tight neck edge, adjust to finish with 1 sl st in first ch. Fasten off.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 29.06.2018
Armhole tip has been added.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= ch
= sc in st
= sc between 2 dc
= sc around ch
= dc in st
= dc around ch
= this round is not worked, it has already been worked, it only shows how next round should be worked in st
= sl st
= first round in diagram




Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 169-26) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (111)

Meg 28.07.2020 - 07:20:

Is there not a round five for size small? and row 7 as well? I seem to be struggling with understanding the wy the pattern is written but am determined. Is there a link for a you tube tutorial??

DROPS Design 29.07.2020 kl. 11:24:

Dear Meg, on row 5 and 8 you will crochet row 5 and 8 as before, reason why they are not listed there, only 2-3 larger sizes are here explained since there will be extra increases that are not applying in smaller sizes (= not listed). Happy crocheting!

Diane Kelm 07.07.2020 - 01:11:

I figured it out. I am now at the end of 1st row of body. It says to work 8 -8 sts under sleeve. But I don't understand as there are only 4 sts left as i started with a sl st and 3 sc in 3 sts.

DROPS Design 07.07.2020 kl. 10:15:

Dear Mrs Kelm, fine :) Now start the body in the 5th chain st mid under one of the sleeve, 1 ch (= 1st sc on round), 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts (= 4 sc), work as A.1a as before to the next 8 chain mid under the other sleeve, 1 sc in each of the 8 chains, work A.1a as before the next sleeve and finish with 1 sc in each of the last 4 chains = there are now 8 sc mid under each sleeve. These 8 stitches are worked as the first stitch in A.1a, ie either 1 sc or 1 dc in each of these 8 sts until you increase evenly and work then A.1a over all stitches in the round. Happy crocheting!

Essi 05.07.2020 - 10:19:

Laskin väärin. Olen jumissa kierroksella 8. Miten jatkuu mallikerta A.1? Alkaako se alusta?

Essi 05.07.2020 - 10:08:

Olen jumissa kierroksella 7, enkä ymmärrä miten kuviota jatketaan. Osaan tehdä A.2 mallikerran, mutta miten jatkan A.1 mallikertaa? Siirrynkö tekemään A.1a mallikertaa?

Diane Kelm 05.07.2020 - 05:33:

I am on the row that starts...work A.1a (see arrow on where pattern.... Can you explain this row better? I do not understand the entire directions here.

DROPS Design 06.07.2020 kl. 08:53:

Dear Mrs Kelm, You will now divide piece for sleeves: work A.1a starting at the arrow for your size, and repeat these 6 sts a total of 3 times = over the first 18 sts (= to first marker), work now 8 chains and skip the sts between the markers, work A.1a (starting as in diagram with 1 dc) a total of 12 times in width (= over the next 72 sts), repeat armhole as before (= 8 chain, skip the sts between 2 markers) and work A.1a a total of 9 times in width (= over the last 54 sts). There are now 2 holes made from the sts skipped between markers and the 8 chains you worked over these stitches. These are for sleeves you will work the edge later around these stitches. Happy crocheting!

Diane Kelm 01.07.2020 - 16:59:

I apologize for not giving you more information. I am making size small. The round I am on starts A1.a & the armhole tip. Thank you.

DROPS Design 02.07.2020 kl. 09:03:

Dear Mrs Kelm, thanks for these further informations - one more question where are you exactly on piece? I'm not sure to understand. Thank you!

Diane Kelm 27.06.2020 - 06:12:

Hello. I have just started this pattern. I have never worked on a diagram pattern before. I am now on what I believe to be round 8 & am stumped. I have no idea what the directions mean. Please help!

DROPS Design 29.06.2020 kl. 07:48:

Dear Mrs Kelm, on round 8 in size XL to XXXL you will now increase in the stitches worked with A.1 between markers: between markers 4 and 5 you will increase 6 sts evenly and between markers 8 and 1 you will increase also 6 sts evenly - at the same time, work A.2 as before, ie continue increase in A.2 as shown in diagram. There are now enough sts to work 1 more repeat of A.1 (= 6 sts) between markers - see number of repeats for your size. Happy crocheting!

Alexandra 04.06.2020 - 14:35:

Hallo! Ich komme nicht weiter! Bei der Passe steht im Absatz "Alle Gr", "In der 6. Runde von A.1 (Rd mit Stb) gleichmäßig verteilt wie folgt zunehmen:" Und am Ende dieses Absatzes steht "A.2 wie zuvor weiterhäkeln"! Nach welchem Muster häkelt man die 3. bis 5. Runde? Danke

DROPS Design 04.06.2020 kl. 14:43:

Liebe Alexandra, die 3. bis 5. Runde häkeln Sie wie zuvor (= wie bei 1. und 2. Runde) -, dh die jeweililgen Reihen in A.1 und A.2 mit den Zunahmen in A.2 wie im Diagram. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Petra 17.05.2020 - 13:01:

Hfastnat på varv 6 (sto L) & ska öka 6st jämnt fördelat i varje A.1-del. Jag får inte ihop texten med diagrammet. I texten står det att jag ska upprepa A.1 3gg mellan 2:a & 3:e markören men diagrammet visar att jag ska virka stolpe i fm & fm om lm på föregående varv. Diagrammet innebär att det blir endast 2gg A.1 mellan 2:a & 3:e markören, inte 3gg. Det samma gäller ju sen mellan markör 4-5 osv. Kan ni snälla förklara så jag förstår hur jag ska göra ökningarna?

DROPS Design 29.05.2020 kl. 08:54:

Hej Petra, jo mellan 2:a och 3:e markören på varv 6 har du 12 st (= diag A.1 2ggr) du öker 6 st = 18 st (diag A.1 3 ggr) Lycka till !

Petra 17.05.2020 - 13:00:

Hfastnat på varv 6 (sto L) & ska öka 6st jämnt fördelat i varje A.1-del. Jag får inte ihop texten med diagrammet. I texten står det att jag ska upprepa A.1 3gg mellan 2:a & 3:e markören men diagrammet visar att jag ska virka stolpe i fm & fm om lm på föregående varv. Diagrammet innebär att det blir endast 2gg A.1 mellan 2:a & 3:e markören, inte 3gg. Det samma gäller ju sen mellan markör 4-5 osv. Kan ni snälla förklara så jag förstår hur jag ska göra ökningarna?

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