DROPS / 169 / 20

Erica Singlet by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS top with lace pattern and A-shape in ”Cotton Light”. Size: S - XXXL.

Tags: a-shape, lace, tops,
DROPS design: Pattern no cl-063
Yarn group B
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio
350-400-450-450-500-550 g color no 02, white

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 4 mm / US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 2.20 $ /50g
DROPS Cotton Light uni colour DROPS Cotton Light uni colour 2.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.40$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

See diagrams A.1 to A.7. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

DECREASE TIP-1 (applies to sides of body):
Dec inside 2 edge sts in garter st. All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows after 2 edge sts: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows before 2 edge st: Beg 2 sts before edge st, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to armholes):
Dec inside 2 edge sts in garter st. All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows after 2 edge sts: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec as follows before 2 edge st: Beg 2 sts before edge sts and K 2 tog.

Worked back and forth on needle in 2 parts.

Cast on 111-117-129-141-147-159 sts on needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Cotton Light. Work first row as follows from RS: 2 edge sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above, work pattern according to diagram A.1 until 3 sts remain on row, work 1st st in A.1 and finish with 2 edge sts in garter st - NOTE: On 7th row in A.1 K last st before edge sts.
When A.1 has been worked, work next row as follows from RS: 2 edge sts in garter st, work pattern according to diagram A.2A over the next 18-21-27-33-36-42 sts (= 6-7-9-11-12-14 repetitions of 3 sts), work A.3 (=11 sts), insert 1 marker (= marker A), work pattern according to diagram A.4 over the next 48 sts (= 6 repetitions of 8 sts), work 1st st in A.4, insert 1 marker (= marker B – there are now 49 sts between markers), work A.3 (= 11 sts), work pattern according to diagram A.2B over the next 18-21-27-33-36-42 sts and finish with 2 edge sts in garter st. Continue pattern like this. NOTE: Continue A.2 and A.3 upwards outside of marker A and B up to armhole. Between marker A and B work a lace edge, no of sts between markers will vary upwards.
PATTERN (applies to sts between marker A and B):
When A.4 has been worked 1 time vertically, work pattern according to diagram A.5 as follows (continue sts before marker A and after marker B as before): Work A.5A (= 12 sts), repeat A.5B over the next 24 sts (= 2 repetitions of 12 sts) and finish with A.5C (= 13 sts).
When A.5 has been worked 1 time vertically, work pattern according to A.4 again the same way as last time. Then work A.1 while AT THE SAME TIME on last row from RS dec 4 sts evenly in size S + M + L + XL and inc 2 sts evenly in size XXL + XXXL (between marker A and B) = 45-45-45-45-51-51 sts between markers. On next row from RS work A.6 as follows: Work A.6A (= 4 sts), repeat A.6B over the next 36-36-36-36-42-42 sts (= 6-6-6-6-7-7 repetitions of 6 sts) and finish with A.6C (= 5 sts). After A.6 work A.1 again AT THE SAME TIME on last row from RS dec 4-4-4-4-2-2 sts evenly = 41-41-41-41-49-49 sts between markers. After A.1 work A.4 again AT THE SAME TIME on last row from RS inc 2 sts in size XXL + XXXL = 41-41-41-41-51-51 sts between markers. Then work A.7 as follows: Work A.7A (= 5 sts), repeat A.7B over the next 30-30-30-30-40-40 sts (= 3-3-3-3-4-4 repetitions of 10 sts) and finish with A.7C (= 6 sts). On last row from RS in A.7 dec 2 sts evenly in size XXL + XXXL (do not dec in the other sizes) = 41-41-41-41-49-49 sts. After A.7 repeat A.4 and A.1 alternately up to neck dec.

AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 6 cm / 2 3/8'', dec 1 st in each side - READ DECREASE TIP-1! Repeat dec every 6-6-6-4-4-4 cm / 2 3/8"-2 3/8"-2 3/8"-1½"-1½"-1½" a total of 6-6-6-9-9-9 times - NOTE: Work sts that do not fit the pattern out towards the side in stockinette st when dec. After dec in the sides, 12-15-21-24-27-33 sts remain in A.2 in each side.

When piece measures 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm / 15¼''-15¾''-16 1/8''-16½''-17''-17¼'', work 2 ridges over the outermost 14-17-23-26-29-35 sts in each side (i.e. over all sts on outside of A.3 in each side - work the other sts as before). Then bind off the outermost 4-6-6-8-10-14 sts at beg of the next 2 rows for armholes. Continue pattern between marker A and B as explained above, continue A.3 on outside of marker A and B as before and work in garter st over the outermost 10-11-17-18-19-21 sts in each side. AT THE SAME TIME bind off for armholes in each side every other row (i.e. every row from RS) as follows - READ DECREASE TIP-2: Dec 1 st 7-8-12-13-16-18 times in total.

When piece measures approx. 50-50-54-54-54-54 cm / 19 3/4"-19 3/4"-21 1/4"-21 1/4"-21 1/4"-21 1/4" - adjust after one whole repetition of A.1 or A.4 - bind off the middle 31-31-31-31-37-37 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue A.3 as before with 5-5-5-5-6-6 edge sts in garter st towards the neck and 3-3-5-5-3-3 edge st in garter st towards the armhole. Continue until piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26'' and bind off. Repeat on the other shoulder.

Cast on and work as back piece.

Sew the shoulder seams. Sew side seams - sew edge to edge with 1 stitch in every st to get a flat seam.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= 1 YO between 2 sts
= K 2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 169-20) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (23)

Josien 06.02.2020 - 14:40:

Hallo, Er staat tussen markeerders a en b een kantrand breien, wordt hiermee patroon a4 bedoelt? Ik snap het niet helemaal. Alvast bedankt.

DROPS Design 09.02.2020 kl. 11:07:

Dag Josien,

Deze kantrand tussen de markeerders is het middengedeelte van het achterpand en als je verder leest bij 'LEES ALLE ONDERSAANDE...etc, wordt uitgelegd hoe je deze kantrand breit.

Thea 01.03.2019 - 15:43:

Bijna toe aan het armsgat, dan pas de alinea over het minderen vanaf 6 cm. Waarom wordt dit niet vermeld in de eerste alinea? Nu weer opnieuw beginnen

DROPS Design 05.03.2019 kl. 20:42:

Dag Thea,

Dat is inderdaad jammer. Er staat halverwege de tekst wel dat je alle onderstaande aanwijzingen door moet lezen voordat je verder gaat.

Esther 17.06.2017 - 09:00:

Hallo, in het patroon lees ik, brei tussen markeerders A en B kanten randen. Wordt daar mee bedoelt kantsteken??

DROPS Design 17.06.2017 kl. 20:26:

Hoi Esther, Excuses, er stond een typefout. Er moet staan: kantrand. Ik heb het aangepast. Veel haakplezier!

Brita Skyborg-Møller 19.04.2017 - 09:13:

Kan den strikkes på rundp?

DROPS Design 26.04.2017 kl. 16:24:

Hej Brita, Ja det kan den godt, men vi kan desværre ikke hjælpe dig med at skrive opskriften om, så hvis du kan det selv så er det helt fint :) God fornøjelse!

Chad Parmalee 10.09.2016 - 16:52:

In pattern blocks 6 and 7, how do the repeats work when the sk2p is partially in the stitches outside the repeat? (ex. A6A, B, C 3rd and 7th rows; A7A, B, C 9th and 15th rows)

DROPS Design 12.09.2016 kl. 08:54:

Dear Mrs Parmalee, On these row, work the last st from diagram A (= A.6A/A.7A) tog with the first 2 sts in next repeat of diagram B, then work the last st in diag. B tog with first st of next diagram B and at the end of row, tog with the first st of diagram C. Happy knitting!

Nancy Goldberg 18.06.2016 - 05:19:

How do we know how much ease there is in the pattern? Does this answer hold for all patterns or is each one different? Not sure what size to choose especially if in between sizes given Thank you

DROPS Design 20.06.2016 kl. 08:39:

Dear Mrs Goldberg, you will find at the bottom of the pattern a measurement chart with all measurements in cm, taken flat from side to side. Compare these to a similar garment you have and like the shape to find out the matching size - read more here<. Happy knitting!

Annette 28.03.2016 - 21:45:

Jeg synes ikke rigtig maskeantallet passer. Jeg har købt det rigtige garn og slået 147 masker op til en str. xxl. I følge diagrammet skulle det passe med 70 cm i forstykket - det passer ikke, forstykket er 87 cm. bredt i en xxl - det er et helt villatelt - blot til orientering.

DROPS Design 31.03.2016 kl. 09:56:

Hej, Hvis du har 21 m på 10 cm så bliver arbejdet også 70 cm i bredden. 147/2,1 = 70 cm. God fornøjelse!

Gunda Poll 10.02.2016 - 09:17:

Einfach fantastisch, diese Kollektion, wo soll ich nur anfangen, eins schöner als das andere, herrlich, danke, tausendmal danke!!!

DieAnne 01.02.2016 - 10:31:

Wenn ich am Vorder- und Rückteil jeweils an beiden Rändern eine der Randmaschen abziehe, könnte ich das Top dann bis zum Armausschnitt in Runden stricken? (Ich bin faul und habe gern möglichst wenige Nähte.)

DROPS Design 07.02.2016 kl. 13:26:

Theoretisch ist das möglich, aber vielleicht kommen Sie dann mit dem Muster und den Seitenabnahmen durcheinander, das Muster ist ja nicht ganz einfach. Vielleicht geben Sie sich besser einen Ruck und nehmen die Nähte in Kauf, es sind ja auch nicht viele. :-)

Mandy Cabot 29.01.2016 - 19:49:

Echoing the first comment, where are the diagrams for this pattern? Please advise, as I have already purchased the yarn.

DROPS Design 01.02.2016 kl. 09:11:

Dear Mrs Cabot, diagrams and chart measurements are now visible. Happy knitting!

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