Berry Ripple by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS skirt with fan pattern and stripes in "Cotton Merino" The piece is worked top down. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no cm-050
Yarn group B
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
100-100-100-150-150-150 g color no 13, coral
100-100-100-100-150-150 g color no 14, cerise
50-50-100-100-100-100 g color no 07, bordeaux
100 g for all sizes of the following colors:
Color no 05, powder pink
Color no 01, off white
NOTE: Skirt worked in one color = 350-400-450-450-500-550 g Cotton Merino.

DROPS CROCHET Hook size 4 mm / G/6 – or size needed to get 18 dc x 9 rows = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON: Round (light pink), NO 618: 5 pieces in all sizes


Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 4.30 $ /50g
DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour 4.30 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.70$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
See diagram A.1 and A.2. A.2 show how each row/round starts
and ends (ie when working back and forth the sl st at the end of
row will not be made).

Replace first dc at beg of every dc row with 3 ch.
Replace first sc at beg of every sc row with 1 ch.

Work A.1a as follows:
ROW 1: Coral
Then repeat A.1b in stripes as follows:
ROW/ROUND 1: Powder pink - NOTE: Inc on this row/round.
ROW/ROUND 2: Cerise
ROW/ROUND 3: Bordeaux
ROW/ROUND 4: Powder pink - NOTE: Inc on this row/round.
ROW/ROUND 5: Cerise
ROW/ROUND 6: Off white
ROW/ROUND 7: Bordeaux - NOTE: Inc on this row/round.
ROW/ROUND 8: Coral
ROW/ROUND 9: Off white
ROW/ROUND 10: Off white
ROW/ROUND 11: Cerise - NOTE: Inc on this row/round.
ROW/ROUND 12: Powder pink - NOTE: Inc on this row/round.
ROW/ROUND 13: Cerise
ROW/ROUND 14: Off white
ROW/ROUND 15: Coral

Inc on 1st, 4th, 7th, 11th and 12th row/round in pattern A.1b (i.e. inc 6 sts evenly 5 times in total per repetition of A.1b).
Inc by working 2 dc in/around same st. To calculate how often inc should be done, use the total no of sts on row/round (e.g. 132 sts) and divide by no of inc to be done (e.g. 6) = 22. I.e. in this example inc 1 dc in every 22nd st.

Continue to work A.1b but coral and off white switch places. I.e. on round where it says coral work with off white and vice versa.

Work top down. Work back and forth until the vent is finished, then work in the round.

Work 141-155-169-183-211-232 ch (includes 3 ch to turn with) on hook size 4 mm / G/6 with off white. Work first row as follows: Work 1 dc in 4th ch from hook (= 2 dc) - READ CROCHET INFO, 1 dc in each of the next ch 4, * skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 120-132-144-156-180-198 dc. Work in STRIPES-1 - see explanation above. Work A.1a 20-22-24-26-30-33 times in total in width. When A.1a has been worked, work A.1b over A.1a (first row in A.1b is from WS). Continue with stripes. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!

Repeat A.1b vertically and inc as follows:
Inc 6 sts evenly - READ INCREASE TIP - 16-16-17-18-18-20 times in total = 216-228-246-264-288-318 sts. For every inc work 1 more repetition of A.1b in width AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 12 cm / 4¾'', end the vent in the side and continue piece in the round, beg round in the side. When A.1b has been repeated 2 times vertically, continue with STRIPES-2 - see explanation above. Fasten off when piece measures 40-42-44-46-48-50 cm / 15¾''-16½''-17¼''-18''-19''-19¾'', finish neatly according to A.1b.

Work an edge in dc from first row on skirt with coral. Work 1 row with 1 sc in every dc and the work 2 rows with 1 sc in every sc = 120-132-144-156-180-198 sc.

Along the opening on front piece work buttonhole loops with coral as follows (beg at the bottom): 2 sc (work 2 sc around dc row and 1 sc around sc row), ch 3, skip 1 cm / 3/8'', * work 2 sc around next dc/sc row, ch 3, skip 1 cm / 3/8'' *, repeat from *-* 3 more times and finish with 2 sc around last dc row at the top, turn and work back as follows: 1 sc in every sc and 3 sc in every ch-space. Fasten off.

Along the other side of the opening work 5 rows with sc back and forth with coral (on 1st row work 2 sc around every dc row and 1 sc around every sc row), fasten off. Sew the buttons on to the button folding edge.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = ch
symbols = sc in st
symbols = sc in back loop of st from RS and in front loop of st from WS.
symbols = sc around ch
symbols = dc in st
symbols = dc around between 2 dc
symbols = dc around ch
symbols = skip 1 st, 1 dc in/around next dc/ch, 1 dc in st that was skipped
symbols = dc-group: Work 1 dc in next dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 loops on hook), work 2 dc in same dc the same way, pull yarn through all 4 loops on hook
symbols = on first row/round work ch 1, on next row/round work 1 tr around ch and down to sc on 2 rows/rounds before.
symbols = on these rounds/rows inc evenly - see pattern
symbols = first row is not worked, it has already been worked, it only shows how next row should be worked in st
symbols = sl st

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 169-22) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (40)

country flag Tarja Saari wrote:

Förstår inte hur man virkar det varv som liknar 2 stycken V ? \r\nFinns ingen förklaring?!

12.07.2022 - 22:27

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Tarja. Om det är de 2 V med streck över så är det 2 stycken "st i m" som då virkas i samma maska i varvet under. Mvh DROPS Design

13.07.2022 kl. 13:34

country flag Yen Bach Do Thi wrote:

Unnskyld. Kan du se bort fra forrige mail? Det var så rot;( Jeg lurer på hvordan hekle dette symbol T? (jeg har prøvd heklet som forklaring på oppskrift, men uskikket det er riktig). Mvh Yen.

31.03.2021 - 16:20

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Yen. Ta en titt på denne videoen. Den viser hvordan man kan hekle gjennom begge maskebuene på masken under (som er mest vanlig) eller for å få forskjellige strukturer så kan man hekle i de bakre maskebuene eller i de fremre. Hvordan hekle i begge eller i en maskebue mvh DROPS design

07.04.2021 kl. 14:40

country flag Yen Bach Do Thi wrote:

Hei. Jeg er nybegynner, men veldig interessert å hekle denne skjørt til meg selv:) Kan dere/du hjelpe meg fra steg til steg? Først steget : Hva betyr her (Hekle 1 st i 4.lm fra nålen (= 2 st)? På forhånd takk:) Mvh. Yen

20.03.2021 - 11:29

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Yen. Du har en heklet en luftmaskerad (flere luftmasker), nå skal du hekle 1 stav i den fjerde luftmasken fra nålen. Ikke tell masken på nålen og tell "bakover" fra nålen. Altså den siste luftmasken du heklet er nr.1, den nest siste luftmasken er nr. 2 og den nest nest siste er nr.3 og den nest, nest, nest side er nr. 4 og det er i denne masken du skal hekle 1 stav i. Da blir de luftmaskene du hoppet over 1 stav og den du heklet i 4. luftmaske 1 stav = 2 staver tilsammen. God Fornøyelse!

22.03.2021 kl. 19:02

country flag Vivian Rosager wrote:

Kan du forklare mig hvad det symbol betyder som ligner et V med en sort kugle på hvert ben? Det findes i diagrammet men ikke i “oversættelsen” af diagramsymboler. Hvad er det for en maske og hvordan laver man den? Indsæt gerne en video. Og det her: = på første række/omg hækl 1 lm, på næste række/omg hækles 1 dbl-st om lm og ned til fm på 2 række/omg før. Vil jeg også gerne se en video på. Håber I kan hjælpe. Tak.

18.02.2021 - 21:47

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Vivian, det er den som betyder stangmaske om mellem 2 stangmasker, og den hækles 2 gange om samme maske. God fornøjelse!

19.02.2021 kl. 13:44

country flag Kimberly Hobbs wrote:

Hi, does this pattern measure the hip circumference or just the width of the skirt across? Thanks!

15.12.2020 - 21:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Hobbs, measurements in chart are accross, when piece lying flat - and in cm - read more about chart here and convert into inches here. Happy crocheting!

16.12.2020 kl. 07:03

country flag Silvia wrote:

Il diagramma A.1a comprende solo la riga delle ma incrociate o anche quella sotto di ma normali?

14.11.2020 - 20:12

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Silvia, il quadratino nero indica che quella riga è già stata lavorata e si trova lì solo per mostrare le maglie precedenti. Deve iniziare dalla riga di A.1a. Buon lavoro!

14.11.2020 kl. 21:12

country flag Combes wrote:

Merci ! J'ai une autre question par rapport au groupe de bride. Le rang précédent il y a des brides ce qui donne au final une ligne de chaînettes. Aussi lorsqu'on nous dit : "crocheter une bride dans la bride " est ce que cela veut dire passer sous la chaînette de la bride réalisé dans le rang précédent ou dois je aller dans le trou entre les deux brides ou ailleurs ? De plus pourquoi dit on: "la bride suivante". Est ce égal à : la bride réalisée précédemment ?

11.02.2020 - 22:37

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Combes, tant que rien n'est indiqué (comme par ex. pour les groupes de brides), vous crochetez les 2 brins de la maille du tour précédent (cf vidéo). La bride suivante est celle du rang/tour précédent. Au 5ème rang de A.1b vous crochetez: 1 groupe de brides dans la 1ère b, *1 ml, sautez 1 b, 1 groupe de brides dans la bride suivante*, et vous répétez de *-*. Bon crochet!

12.02.2020 kl. 08:11

country flag Combes wrote:

Je souhaite faire la jupe Berry Ripple mais je ne comprends pas comment réaliser le 1er point après avoir fait un rang de chainette : Sauter 1 m, 1B/autour de la ml suivante, 1 B dans la m sautée. Je ne comprend pas comment faire une bride dans la maille sautée. Serait il possible d'avoir une vidéo ? Je ne l'ai pas trouvé.

10.02.2020 - 22:16

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Combes, tout à fait, c'est la technique des brides croisées dont vous trouverez la vidéo ici. Bon crochet!

11.02.2020 kl. 09:43

country flag Kristin Bøhlerengen wrote:

Hei! -For et herlig skjørt!. Jeg lurer på om jeg bør velge str M eller L. Jeg er 175 cm høy og måler ca 92 cm rundt livet. Går det an å hekle skjørtet litt lenger , da jeg kunne tenke meg en lengde som nesten går ned til knærne?

12.08.2019 - 19:28

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Kristin. Du finner en målskisse av det ferdige plagget (i cm) nederst i oppskriften, både lengde og bredde. Du kan fint hekle skjørtet lengre, bare husk at du må ha nok garn (garnmenden som er er opplyst i denne oppskriften er til den lengden som er skrevet i målskissen). God Fornøylese!

23.09.2019 kl. 09:50

country flag Kristine wrote:

Hej Jeg har lidt svært ved at forstå hvad det nøjagtig er, der skal gøres med dbl-st, der skal om lm og ned til fm på 2. omgang før. En almindelig dobbelstangmaske er jeg med på. ... men ned til fm. hvordan gør man det?

30.04.2019 - 23:24

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Kristine, jo hvis du ser på billedet af mønsteret, så er det de lange rosa dobbelt-stangmasker som stikker ned i de hvide fastmasker fra forrige række. God fornøjelse!

03.05.2019 kl. 10:46

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