DROPS / 169 / 14

Always Cute by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS shoulder piece with lace pattern in ”Paris”. Size: S - XXXL.

Tags: boleros, lace,
DROPS design: Pattern no w-575
Yarn group C or A + A
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
300-300-350-350-400-450 g color no 16, white

DROPS CIRCULAR Needle size 5 mm / US 8 (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') - or size needed to get 14 sts lace pattern according to A.1 = width 10 cm / 4'' or 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 – for edge in garter st.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 1.80 $ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 2.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 1.80 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 10.80$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

See diagram A.1. The diagram show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

To calculate how often dec/inc should be done, use the total no of sts on row (e.g. 108 sts) and divide by no of dec/inc to be done (e.g. 19) = 5.68. I.e. in this example work alternately every 4th and 5th st K tog and every 5th and 6th K st tog (if dec). Or inc after alternately every 5th and 6th st.
NOTE: Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. On next row K YO twisted to avoid holes.

Cast on 108-116-122-130-130-138 sts on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Paris. Work 4 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. AT THE SAME TIME when 1 ridge remains, dec 19-21-21-23-23-25 sts evenly from RS - READ DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 89-95-101-107-107-113 sts. K last row from WS. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and work 2 rows in stockinette st with 2 edge sts in garter st in each side. Work next row as follows from RS: 2 edge sts in garter st, work A.1A (= 3 sts), work pattern according to diagram A.1B until 6 sts remain (= 13-14-15-16-16-17 repetitions of 6 sts), work A.1C (= 4 sts) and finish with 2 edge sts in garter st. Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When piece measures 5-5-6-7-8-9 cm / 2"-2"-2½"-2 3/4"-3"-3½", cast on 7 new sts for sleeve at the end of the next 2 rows = 103-109-115-121-121-127 sts on needle. Continue A.1 with 3 edge sts in garter st in each side - NOTE: Make sure that the pattern comes above each other onwards - after casting on new sts in each side there is room for 2 repetitions more of A.1B.
When piece measures 51-55-58-61-64-67 cm / 20"-21½"-22 3/4"-24"-25 1/4"-26½", bind off 7 sts at the beg of the next 2 rows = 89-95-101-107-107-113 sts remain on needle. Continue A.1 with 2 edge sts in garter st in each side until piece measures 53-57-61-65-69-73 cm / 21"-22½"-24"-25½"-27"-28 3/4", adjust to have worked the same length as on beg of piece and that next row is worked from RS. Work 2 rows in stockinette st with 2 edge sts in garter st in each side. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and work 4 ridges back and forth while AT THE SAME TIME inc 19-21-21-23-23-25 sts evenly on 1st row – READ DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 108-116-122-130-130-138 sts. After ridges LOOSELY bind off with K from RS.

Place cast-on edge towards bind-off edge, WS against WS. Sew side and underarm seams in one - see dotted line on chart – NOTE: side seams are sewn edge to edge in outer loops of edge sts to get a flat seam, underarm seams are sewn inside bind-off and cast-on edge.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= 1 YO between 2 sts
= K 2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 169-14) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (15)

Fran 14.08.2019 - 00:22:

Are the measurements in inches or centimeters?

DROPS Design 14.08.2019 kl. 08:10:

Dear Fran, to get the measurements in the pattern in inches, make sure you are reading the US-English pattern by clicking on the arrow under the picture. Measurements in chart are in cm - convert here into inches. Happy crocheting!

Henker Bettina 12.10.2018 - 19:48:

Wie geht das mit den 7 M zunehmen für den Ärmel

Noemí 21.08.2018 - 18:47:

Buenas tardes: En las instrucciones para los aumentos el patrón dice que las hebras se tejan retorcidas de derecho para evitar agujeros; sin embargo, esta prenda tiene un patrón de calados. He probado a tejer las hebras de la manera habitual y así sí se ve el agujero. No sé si estoy equivocada o es un fallo de transcripción del patrón (por si quieren revisarlo 😉). Un saludo y gracias por todos los patrones que comparten.

DROPS Design 26.08.2018 kl. 16:35:

Hola Noemí, no hay ningún fallo, el patrón es correcto. Las hebras se trabajan sólo con punto retorcido en los aumentos (para dar forma a la prenda). Las hebras del patrón de calados se trabajan de la manera habitual.

Noemí 21.08.2018 - 18:43:

Buenas tardes: Estoy tejiendo este maravilloso bolero para un regalo y me surge una duda. Comparando mi tejido con la imagen mis calados se ven más pequeños a pesar de haber comprobado con la muestra que mi tensión de tejido es la adecuada. ¿Es necesario bloquear la prenda para que el tejido se vea igual? Mucha gracias por la atención y por todos los patrones gratuitos.

Nanna Mathiasen 14.04.2018 - 10:54:

Hej jeg er lidt i tvivl om hvordan jeg skal strikke A1B når vi når til linjen med 2 trekanter da trekanterne overlapper både A1A og A1C?

DROPS Design 24.04.2018 kl. 13:40:

Hei Nanna. På den 7 omgangen strikker du slik: det første kastet i overgangen A.1a/A.1b inngår i A.1a, mens fellingen og kastet på slutten av fellingen inngår i A.1b. Det samme prinsippet gjelder for overgangen mellom rapportene av A.1b, og overgangen mellom A.1b/A.1c. Maskeantallet i de forskellige delene (a,b og c) forblir det samme gjennom hele omgangen. God fornøyelse

Petra Stammkötter 15.06.2017 - 21:13:

Hallo, nachdem ich 7 Maschen auf jeder Seite zugenommen habe geht die erste Musterreihe (Reihe 3) sehr gut auf. In Reihe 5 des Musters habe ich jedoch auf der linken Seite 4 Maschen als Randmaschen übrig statt 3. Auch nach 5 mal wieder anfangen. Können Sie mir weiter helfen? Vielen Dank

DROPS Design 16.06.2017 kl. 08:56:

Liebe Frau Stammkötter, Sie sollen die Maschen so stricken: 3 M kraus rechts, A.1A x 1, A.1B wiederholen bis 7 M übrig sind, und die letzte M so stricken: A.1C (= 4 M), 3 M Kraus rechts. Fadenmarkierer können Sie zwischen jedem Rapport einsetzen, so kann es einfacher das Muster weiterzustricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Anne-H 24.08.2016 - 17:28:

Bonjour, Je ne comprend pas comment il faut tricoter le rang 7 du diagramme sachant que les mailles glissées sur deux mailles ensembles sont à cheval sur les 3 parties du diagramme. Comment faut-il tricoter A1A / A1B / A1C séparément au rang 7 ? Merci d'avance pour votre réponse . Bonne soirée

DROPS Design 25.08.2016 kl. 10:00:

Bonjour Anne-H, la vidéo ci-dessous montre comment réaliser ce diagramme en entier (pour un autre modèle mais le diagramme est le même): au rang 7, le 1er jeté = dernière m de A.1A qui va se tricoter avec les 2 premières m de A.1B, puis on tricote les 2 dernières m de A.1B avec la 1ère m du A.1B suivant puis avec la 1ère m de A.1C. Bon tricot!

Yuliya 21.05.2016 - 23:22:

VII. Reihe kann ich gar nicht zusammen bringen. Wo fängt hier Rapport an? Ps: ging nur so mit Fragen, keine lange Kommentare zugelassen)

DROPS Design 23.05.2016 kl. 10:39:

Stricken Sie fortlaufend das im Diagramm dargestellte Muster, ohne sich um den genauen Anfang und Ende des Mustersatzes zu sorgen - das ist nicht nötig und es wird aufgehen. Sie sehen wie das Zusammenstricken im Muster die Spitze des Motivs bildet.

Yuliya 21.05.2016 - 23:21:

Ist das richtig so? III. Reihe: 3 Maschen ( 2 m. zus., Umschlag, 1 m. re.) Rapport ( 2 m. re., Umschlag, 3 m.zus. Überzug, Umschlag, 1 m. re.) Ende der Reihe 4 Maschen ( 2 m. re., Umschlag, 2 m. zus. Überzug) V. Reihe: 3 Maschen ( 1 m. re., Umschlag, 2 m. zus. Überzug) Rapport ( 1m. re., 2 m. zus, Umschlag, 1m.re., Umschlag, 2 m. zus. Überzug) Ende der Reihe ( 1 m. re., 2 m. zus., Umschlag, 1 m. re.)

DROPS Design 23.05.2016 kl. 10:35:

Hallo Yulia, auch hier müssen Sie daran denken, beidseitig je 2 M kraus re zu stricken, ansonsten folgen Sie bitte dem Diagramm.

Yuliya 21.05.2016 - 23:19:

Guten Tag. Ich verstehe nicht so ganz, wo Rapport anfängt und wo endet. I. Reihe: 3 Maschen (1 m. re, 2 m. zus., Umschlag), dann Rapport ( 1 m.re., Umschlag, 2 m. zus. Überschlag, 1m.re, 2 m. zus., Umschlag) Ende der Reihe 4 Maschen ( 1 m. re., Umschlag, 2 m. zus. Überschlag, 1 m.re)

DROPS Design 23.05.2016 kl. 10:34:

Hallo Yulia, im Diagramm haben wir eingezichnet, wo die einzelnen Rapporte beginnen und enden. Denken Sie daran, vor A.1A 2 M kraus rechts zu stricken, dann geht das Muster auf.

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