DROPS / 170 / 28

So Classy! by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS poncho in seed st with lace pattern in ”Air”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no ai-029
Yarn group C or A + A
Size: S/M - L/XL - XXL - XXXL
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio
300-350-400-400 g color no 02, wheat

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 6 mm/US 10 - or size needed to get 15 sts x 19 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.60 $ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 6.60 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 6.60 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

See diagrams A.1 to A.5. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

Worked back and forth on circular needle in 2 parts and sewn tog when finished.

Cast on 99-107-115-123 sts (includes 1 edge st in garter st in each side) on circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 with Air. Work pattern as follows: 1 edge st in GARTER ST – see explanation above, A.1 (= 5 sts), A.2 (= 8 sts) 11-12-13-14 times in width. A.3 (= 4 sts), 1 edge st in garter st. NOTE: Continue edge sts in garter st until finished measurements, they become part of the seed st in pattern. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When entire A.1 to A.3 have been worked 1 time vertically, continue with pattern as follows from RS: Work A.4 (NOTE: 1st st in diagram = edge st), work 79-87-95-103 sts in stockinette st, work A.5 over the last 10 sts on row (NOTE: Last st in diagram = edge st). Continue like this until piece measures 30 cm / 11 3/4'' from cast-on edge. At the end of next row from WS, cast on 1 new st (marks vent) = 100-108-116-124 sts. Work the new st in garter st. I.e. there are now 2 edge sts in garter st at beg of row from RS. When piece measures 58-63-69-74 cm / 22 3/4"-24 3/4"-27"-29", work pattern, beg from row marked with star in diagram as follows: Work 2 edge sts in garter st, A.1, A.2 11-12-13-14 times in width, A.3, 1 edge st in garter st. When diagram has been worked vertically, repeat the last 2 rows in diagram until piece measures 66-71-77-82 cm / 26"-28"-30½"-32 1/4". Bind off sts with K over P and P over K.
Cast on and work another part the same way but reversed.

See measurement chart. Sew seam A and B with grafting/kitchener stitches. Then sew seam C and D in outer loop of edge sts. There is now a 30 cm / 11 3/4'' vent in one side and a vent along the entire other side. Fasten off.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= 1 YO between 2 sts On next row P the YO. It should make a hole.
= K 2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
= 2nd time patterns A.1 to A.3 are worked, beg on this row in pattern

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 170-28) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (33)

Eloise 09.03.2020 - 07:26:

Does reverse mean backwards? Do I now knit left to right (A3 to A1)? And do I also flip the knit/purl stitches? For example, do I know knit row 8 (rather than purl it as I did with the first piece) because it’s now from the WS? Or is this still considered the RS side?

DROPS Design 09.03.2020 kl. 12:42:

Dear Eloïse, both pieces should be mirrored, ie work 2nd piece as first one but cast on 1 st at the end of row from RS instead of from WS so that the 2 sts in garter st are at the end of row from RS instead of at the beg of row from RS and so on. Happy knitting!

Eloise 08.03.2020 - 22:25:

Is it absolutely necessary to knit the second piece in reverse? I find it very confusing.. is there any way to knit it as the first piece but still be able to put it together in the end? Thanks!

DROPS Design 08.03.2020 kl. 22:49:

Dear Eloise, the poncho is asymmetric, that is why you need to knit the first piece mirrored for the second, otherwise you will not be able to put the pieces together.

Chiara 01.01.2020 - 18:47:

Ciao, per realizzare il poncho si può usare un filato A+A, vuol dire che uso un filato del 3 - 3,5 in doppio? Grazie

DROPS Design 02.01.2020 kl. 11:17:

Buongiorno Chiara. Sì, può sostituire il filato indicato con un filato del gruppo A usato doppio. Verifichi sempre la correttezza del campione. Buon lavoro!

Melinda Fülöp 16.12.2019 - 17:08:

Hej Hur ska man sticka den andra delen sen? Jag blir tacksam om svaret blir på svenska. Tack

DROPS Design 17.12.2019 kl. 11:38:

Hej Melinda, du stickar den andra delen på samma vis fast du lägger upp en ny maska i andra sidan. Lycka till :)

Maja 26.10.2019 - 22:22:

Hi, I'm a bit confused with how the written pattern corresponds to the diagram. I've now worked the first 2 rows. It says "Continue like this until piece measures 30 cm / 11 3/4'' from cast-on edge." Does this mean that I simply repeat the first 2 rows until the pattern measures 30cm, or should I keep following the diagram upwards? I'm quite a new knitter so I apologise if this is a silly question. Thanks!

DROPS Design 28.10.2019 kl. 07:42:

Hi Maja, You continue the pattern upwards. Happy knitting!

Linda 16.08.2019 - 20:11:

Can this be done with written instructions instead of of by diagram or chart? I absolutely love this and I do not do well by charts. I usually write the instructions down on paper which works better for me. Thanks for sharing your beautiful work and pattern.

DROPS Design 19.08.2019 kl. 08:58:

Dear Linda, you will find how to read knitting diagrams here. Happy knitting!

Katerina 08.03.2019 - 21:17:

Hi, would it be possible to have a 30 cm vent in both sides?

DROPS Design 10.03.2019 kl. 16:47:

Yes, just knit the garter just add the plus stitch for the seaming where you want the split start / end. Happy Knitting.

Andrée Marin 04.03.2019 - 13:37:

Merci pour les informations. Je suis toujours surprise de votre rapidité à répondre. C'est la première fois que dans un diagramme on ne répète pas la ligne au complet .

Andrée Marin 03.03.2019 - 02:52:

Encore moi. je fais la grandeur 115 mailles. Si j'enlève les 2 mailles lisière il reste 113 mailles. Le diagramme A1 - A2 - A3 comprend 17 mailles. Je répète le diagramme 6 fois = 102 mailles . 113 mailles moins 102 il reste 11 mailles. Comment je termine mon premier rang du motif. J'ai plusieurs fois fait des modèles de Drop design parfois très difficile et j'ai réussi. J'attends vos explications avec impatience. Merci à l'avance

DROPS Design 04.03.2019 kl. 09:32:

Bonjour Mme Marin, tricotez les 115 m ainsi: 1 m lis au point mousse, 1 x A.5 (= 5 m), répétez 13 x les 8 m de A.2 (= 13x8 =sur les 104 m suivantes), terminez par A.3 (= 4 m) et 1 m lis au point mousse, soit: 1+5+104+4+1= 115 m. Bon tricot!

Andrée Marin 25.02.2019 - 14:27:

Bonjour, je pense qu'il y a une erreur dans le diagramme -EX: monter 107 m. y compris la m. lis. le diagramme comprend 17 m. si je répété 6 fois le diagramme i.e. 102 m. il me reste 3 mailles. En plus le patron version française est différent de celui en anglais. En francais A.1(=5m.), 12 fois - A.2 (= 8m. en largeur En Anglais A.1 (=5 sts), A.2 (= 8 sts ) 12 times in width Peut-être que je ne comprend pas bien le patron. S.V.P. j'attends votre réponse Merci

DROPS Design 25.02.2019 kl. 16:28:

Bonjour Mme Marin, tricotez les 107 m ainsi: 1 m lisière au point mousse, A.1 (= 5 m), 12 fois A.2 (= 8 m) en largeur, A.3 (= 4 m), 1 m lis au point mousse. soit: 1 + 5 + 12x8 + 4 + 1 = 107 m. Bon tricot!

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