DROPS / 167 / 24

Sweet Crush by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS poncho with lace pattern, lacing and neck split mid front in “Air”. Worked top down. Size: S - XXXL.

Tags: lace, ponchos,
DROPS design: Pattern no ai-028
Yarn group C or A + A
Size: S/M – L/XL - XXL - XXXL
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio
300-400-450-500 g color no 08, light pink
Some left over color no 01, off white - for ties

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 6 mm/US 10 - or size needed to get 15 sts x 19 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 5 mm/US 8 – for edge in garter st.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.60 $ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 6.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 6.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in pattern seen from RS.

When piece is worked back and forth inc on every row from WS. When piece is worked in the round continue to inc every other round.
Inc after 1st and 3rd marker and before 2nd and 4th marker as follows:
Inc with 1 YO, DO NOT work YO twisted on next row/round, it should make a hole. Work YOs in pattern.

First work back and forth, top down, then in the round. Cast on 78-86-94-102 sts on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with Air. Work 1 ridge in GARTER ST - see explanation above AT THE SAME TIME on last row inc 10 sts evenly = 88-96-104-112 sts. Switch to circular needle size 6 mm / US 10. Work as follows from RS: 2 sts in garter st, insert 1st marker, repeat A.1 (= 2 sts) over the next 40-44-48-52 sts, insert 2nd marker, 4 sts in garter st, insert 3rd marker, repeat A.1 over the next 40-44-48-52 sts, insert 4th marker, finish with 2 sts in garter st. Continue the pattern like this AT THE SAME TIME inc on every other row - read INCREASE TIP. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When piece measures 29 cm / 11½'', work piece in the round, displace round so that round beg mid back with 4 sts in garter st. Work A.1 and in garter st as before. Continue to inc every other round. When piece measures 56-58-60-62 cm / 22"-22 3/4"-23½"-24½", switch to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Loosely bind off.

Cut 2 lengths of 4 metres/4.5 yds each with off white. Twine the strands tog until they resist, fold the string double so that it twines again. Make a knot at each end. Thread the tie through the holes in pattern, cross it at the edge by the 2 sts in garter st (= neck split).


All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= K 2 tog
= 1 YO between 2 sts

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 167-24) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (26)

Jeanette 30.05.2020 - 18:45:

Har det någon betydelse för utseendet om man väljer att INTE förskjuta maskorna så att varvet börjar mitt bak, när man stickor ihop ponchon vid 29 cm?

DROPS Design 05.06.2020 kl. 09:43:

Hej Jeanette, Ja det kan du testa :)

Mona Dahl 25.05.2020 - 23:04:

Prøver og strikke denne, den vrir seg mot venstre mer og mer. har strikket/heklet i 40 år, hva gjør jeg galt?

DROPS Design 29.05.2020 kl. 10:44:

Hej Mona, Strikker du den i DROPS Air? Har du set videoen?

How to knit A.1 in DROPS 167-24 from Garnstudio Drops design on Vimeo.

Saule 08.02.2019 - 11:22:

Hi! Could you explain me how many loops do I need for size 54? Thank you for the lovely pattern)

DROPS Design 08.02.2019 kl. 12:12:

Dear Saule, you will find the number of stitches to cast on under the written pattern, ie 78 sts in first size, 86 sts in 2nd size, 94 sts in 3rd size and 102 sts in larger size. To find the matching size, compare the measurements from a similar garment you have and like the shape to the ones from t he chart. Read more about sizing here. Happy knitting!

Christiane 27.01.2019 - 18:19:

Je ne comprends pas le A1 en aller retour faut-il faire 1 end 2 env 3 le motif 4 end 5 end 6 end et en rond 1 end 2 end 3 motif 4 env 5 end 6 env aimerais savoir si bien compris merci

DROPS Design 28.01.2019 kl. 11:38:

Bonjour Christiane, A.1 se tricote sur 2 mailles ainsi en allers et retours: rang 1 (sur l'endroit): 2 m end, rang2: 2 m env (sur l'envers), Rang3 (2 m ens à l'end, 1 jeté). Rang4: 2 m end. Rang 5: 2 m end. Rang6: 2 m end. En rond: Rangs 1&2: 2 m end. Rang3: 2 m ens à l'end. Rangs 4 &6: 2 m env. Rang5: 2 m end. Bon tricot!

Sol Østhagen 25.06.2018 - 18:21:

Hei! Når jeg skal begynne å strikke rundt og forskyve omgangen, betyr det at jeg altså begynner med de fire rette maskene?

DROPS Design 27.06.2018 kl. 15:22:

Hei Sol. Ja det betyr at du begynner midt bak med 4 masker rille og fortsetter ellers mønsteret etter A.1. God fornøyelse.

Rosalba Hernández 16.03.2018 - 20:22:

Cómo muevo la vuelta de inicio a los 4 puntos de atrás?

DROPS Design 08.04.2018 kl. 18:34:

Hola Rosalba, al terminar la vuelta cortas el hilo, cuentas 4 puntos desde atrás y colocas en él el marcapuntos. A partir de ahora, este punto contará como inicio de la vuelta.

Delchet 10.05.2017 - 12:34:

Bonjour, je bloque sur le poncho. j'ai fait mes 29 cm en allers retours, et je ne vois pas comment décaler le tour au milieu dos en commençant par 4 m. au point mousse pour continuer en rond. J'ai regardé la vidéo sans succès. Mon dernier rang est le 6 de A1. Pouvez-vous m'aider ? Merci

DROPS Design 10.05.2017 kl. 13:51:

Bonjour Mme Delchet, vous pouvez couper le fil et commencer les tours après les 4 m point mousse du milieu dos. Bon tricot!

Benedetta 30.09.2016 - 08:55:

Sì, infatti dopo ho capito.Grazie

Benedetta 29.09.2016 - 21:36:

Buonasera,in merito agli aumenti non è specificato quante m.bisogna aumentare e quante sono le maglie alla fine in totale.Potete aiutarmi? Grazie

DROPS Design 29.09.2016 kl. 22:17:

Buonasera Benedetta, nel SUGGERIMENTO PER GLI AUMENTI all'inizio delle spiegazioni può trovare tutte le indicazioni che ha chiesto. Deve continuare ad aumentare fino a quando il lavoro misura 29 cm. Buon lavoro!

Sandrine 24.08.2016 - 19:07:

Bonsoir et merci pour vos explications qui m'ont permis de comprendre très clairement. Aujourd'hui j'ai bien avancé et je dois commencer à tricoter le poncho en circulaire. Pourriez-vous me dire si je commence le premier rand en maille envers, puis inversement. En sachant, que j'ai juste avant le rang "2 m ens à l'end, 1 jeté". Merci encore pour votre aide précieuse.

DROPS Design 25.08.2016 kl. 10:04:

Bonjour Sandrine, tout à fait, quand vous tricotez ce motif en rond, vous tricotez les mailles comme elles doivent se présenter sur l'endroit, c'est-à-dire aux rangs 1 et 2: à l'endroit, rang 3: comme avant (2 m ens à l'end, 1 jeté), rang 4: à l'env, rang 5: à l'end, rang 6: à l'env. Bon tricot!

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