DROPS / 164 / 43

Sweet Olivia Vest by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS vest in garter st with raglan, worked top down in "Alpaca". Size: S - XXXL.

Tags: raglan, top down, vests,
DROPS design: Pattern no z-712
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
All measurements in chart in cm. Conversion to inch - see page 4.
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
250-300-350-350-400-450 g color no 7233, olive

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 3 mm/US 2.5 - or size needed to get 24 sts x 48 rows in garter st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm). And 24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 2.5 mm/ US 1.5 - for edges.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON: Arched (white), NO 521: 7 pieces in all sizes

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

GARTER ST (worked in the round):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in pattern seen from RS.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = work until 3 sts remain on needle (seen from RS), make 1 YO, K 2 tog and K the last 1 st.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 2, 9, 16, 24, 32, 40 and 48 cm /
3/4",3½",6 1/4",9½",12½",15 3/4",19"
SIZE M: 2, 10, 18, 26, 34, 42 and 50 cm /
3/4",4",7",10 1/4",13½",16½",19 3/4"
SIZE L: 2, 10, 18, 26, 34, 42 and 50 cm /
3/4",4",7",10 1/4",13½",16½",19 3/4"
SIZE XL: 2, 10, 18, 26, 34, 43 and 52 cm /
3/4",4",7",10 1/4",13½",17",20½"
SIZE XXL: 2, 10, 18, 27, 36, 45 and 54 cm /
3/4",4",7",10½",14 1/4",17 3/4",21 1/4"
SIZE XXXL: 2, 11, 20, 29, 38, 47 and 56 cm /
3/4",4½",8",11½",15",18½",22''

RAGLAN:
Inc 1 st on each side of the 11 raglan sts. Inc by K 2 sts in st both before and after the 11 raglan sts (= 2 sts inc at every A.1). All inc are done from RS.

MEASURING TIP:
Because of garter st the garment will be longer when worn. All length measurements must therefore be done while holding up the garment.
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VEST:
Work back and forth on circular needle from mid front, work top down.

YOKE:
Cast on 106-106-106-114-114-114 sts (includes 5 band sts each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with Alpaca. Work 3 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and K 1 row from RS while inc 24 sts evenly - NOTE: P the outermost 5 sts in each side towards mid front and do not inc over these sts (= band sts) = 130-130-130-138-138-138 sts on row.
Insert 4 markers in the piece as follows (from WS): P 5 (= band sts), K 19-19-19-21-21-21 (= right front piece), insert 1 marker in next st, K 20 (= sleeve), insert 1 marker in next st, K 38-38-38-42-42-42 (= back piece), insert 1 marker in next st, K 20 (= sleeve), insert 1 marker in next st, K 19-19-19-21-21-21 (= left front piece) and finish with P 5 (= band sts).
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING:
Then work ridges (1st row = RS) but in every transition between body and sleeves work A.1 (= 11 sts - NOTE: St with marker should fit with st with arrow in diagram), P the 5 band sts in each side towards mid front on every row until finished measurements.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE and remember to dec for BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above.
AT THE SAME TIME on first row from RS beg inc for RAGLAN – see explanation above. NOTE: Inc differently on body and sleeves:
BODY: Inc every other row (i.e. every row from RS) a total of 13-21-26-34-42-53 times and then every 4th row (i.e. every other row from RS) a total of 14-11-10-7-4-0 times.
SLEEVE: Inc every other row a total of 17-19-18-20-18-21 times, and on every 4th row a total of 12-12-14-14-16-16 time.

After all inc for raglan there are 354-382-402-438-458-498 sts on row and piece measures approx. 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm / 8''-8¼''-8¾''-9''-9½''-9¾'' from shoulder.
Work next row as follows from WS: Work 52-57-61-68-73-80 sts (= right front piece), slip the next 78-82-84-88-88-94 sts on 1 stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new sts (= under sleeve), work 94-104-112-126-136-150 sts (= back piece), slip the next 78-82-84-88-88-94 sts on 1 stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 sts (= under sleeve), work the remaining 52-57-61-68-73-80 sts (= left front piece).

BODY:
= 210-230-250-278-302-330 sts. Continue to work in garter st back and forth and P bands - remember buttonholes on right band.
When piece measures 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm / 13''-13 3/8''-13¾''-14¼''-14½''-15'', measured from where sleeve was divided under sleeve (or desired length) – READ MEASURING TIP, P 1 row from WS while inc 2 sts evenly = 212-232-252-280-304-332 sts on needle. Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and work 3 rows rib (= K 2/P 2) with 5 band sts in garter st and 2 K in each side towards mid front (seen from RS). Then LOOSELY bind off sts with K over K and P over P. Entire vest measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm / 21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼'' from shoulder.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Slip the 78-82-84-88-88-94 sts from stitch holder in one side of piece back on double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 and cast in addition on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new sts mid under sleeve = 84-88-92-96-98-104 sts. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST in the round - see explanation above (make sure to continue correct according to yoke). Switch to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and K 1 round. Then work 4 rounds rib = K 2/P 2. Then LOOSELY bind off sts with K over K and P over P. Repeat around the other sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew the buttons on to the left band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 164-43) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (37)

Geraldine 18.06.2020 - 06:56:

I don't understand this instruction "Note: inc differently on body and sleeves." At this stage the raglan shaping is all one piece in a continuous line - four lots of A1 pattern. So I don't know where to increase differently. Hope you can help Thanks. Geraldine

DROPS Design 18.06.2020 kl. 10:23:

Dear Geraldine, you work A.1 at each transition between body and sleeves but you will increase either 8 sts (= body and sleeves) or only 4 sts (sleeves or body only depending on the size). Happy knitting!

Tineke 05.01.2020 - 16:33:

Kan ik de mouwen ook op een rondbreinaald afmaken?

DROPS Design 08.01.2020 kl. 09:49:

Dag Tineke,

Jazeker, dat kan ook met een rondbreinaald!

Helena 03.11.2019 - 19:53:

Thank you for your explanation. It now makes sense for the band stitches. You are great! I much appreciate your company and the service you provide.

Helena 26.10.2019 - 17:59:

Can you please clarify? In the yoke/body part it says to P (purl?) 5 outter most stitches as that is the edge for buttons and button holes. I am aware that this part is usually done with a knit (K) stitch. Is it correct to purl these stitches or could it be a mistake. Thank you.

DROPS Design 03.11.2019 kl. 19:08:

Dear Helena, you are right, that band sts we usually work in garter st, so knit both RS and WS. But as whole this west is knitted in garter st, we need to make some difference for bands - so we changed knitted sts to purl sts. It will also give a kind of garter st, but it will be a bit shifted from rest of garment. Happy knitting!

Alessia 09.09.2019 - 17:55:

Buongiorno, vorrei fare questo modello a maglia rasata perché il cotone che ho è già operato e inoltre vorrei farlo un po' più corto in vita. Come devo regolarmi per gli scalfi a che punto farli ? Devo tenere conto di altre cose, a parte fare un campione con il mio filato?

DROPS Design 09.09.2019 kl. 18:07:

Buongiorno Alessia, purtroppo in questa sede non possiamo fornirle un consiglio così personalizzato, ma può provare a rivolgersi al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

Ineke Albers 14.01.2019 - 22:16:

Kan ik het patroon 164/43 of 164/42 gebreid met Alpaca ook breien met garen Nepal? Ik begrijp het garenvervanger niet zo goed.

DROPS Design 17.01.2019 kl. 11:04:

Dag Ineke,

Nepal valt in garengroep C en is dus een veel dikker garen dan Alpaca, welke in garengroep A valt. De dunne variant van Nepal is DROPS Flora (bestaat ook uit wol en alpaca), deze valt wel in categorie A.

DUVAL MARIE-THERESE 17.06.2018 - 16:15:

Comment dois-je départager le nombre de mailles à monter séparément pour chaque pièce car je veux faire ce gilet mais avec des aiguilles droites (je suis réfractaire aux aiguilles circulaires) ? Et pour les diminutions raglans svp ? merci j'attends votre réponse pour commencer mon ouvrage (j'ai déjà ma laine)

DROPS Design 18.06.2018 kl. 09:00:

Bonjour Mme Duval, ce modèle se tricote en allers et retours sur aiguille circulaire (seules les manches se tricotent en rond - ajustez en suivant ces indications) pour avoir suffisamment de place pour y loger toutes les mailles. Vous pouvez ainsi utiliser des aiguilles droites, veillez juste à bien conserver la bonne tension car les mailles seront plus serrées. Bon tricot!

Norinski 25.03.2018 - 01:13:

De quoi s\'agit il ??? NOTE: on augmente différemment sur le dos/les devants et sur les manches:\r\nDOS & DEVANTS: Augmenter 13-21-26-34-42-53 fois au total tous les 2 rangs (c\'est-à-dire tous les rangs sur l\'endroit) et 14-11-10-7-4-0 fois tous les 4 rangs (c\'est-à-dire tous les 2 rangs sur l\'endroit)

DROPS Design 26.03.2018 kl. 11:26:

Bonjour Mme Norinski, les augmentations du raglan dos et devants se font à un rythme différent de celles des manches, par ex en taille S, on augmente sur les devants et le dos 13x tous les 2 rangs et 14x tous les 4 rangs, et sur les manches 17x tous les 2 rangs et 12 x tous les 4 rangs. On va donc augmenter soit 8 m (= manches, dos et devants), soit alternativement 4 m (= sur les manches seulement) et 8 m (= sur les manches et sur le dos/les devants). Bon tricot!

Barbara 05.10.2017 - 12:20:

Für mich stimmt die Raglaneinteilung nicht, das ergibt insgesamt zu viele M 5+19+20+38+20+19+5=126, es sind aber nur 106 angeschlagen.....oder verstehe ich das falsch???

DROPS Design 05.10.2017 kl. 16:14:

Liebe Barbara, so wird es in der Größe M gestrickt: 5 M li (= Blenden-M), 19 M re (= rechtes Vorderteil), 1 Markierer an der nächsten M anbringen, 20 M re (= Ärmel), 1 Markierer an der nächsten M anbringen, 38 M re (= Rückenteil), 1 Markierer an der nächsten M anbringen, 20 M re (= Ärmel), 1 Markierer an der nächsten M anbringen, 19 M re (= linkes Vorderteil) und enden mit 5 M li (= Blenden-M) = 5 + 19 + 1 + 20 + 1 + 38 + 1 + 20 + 1 + 19 + 5 = 130 M. Die Maschen mit den Markierern sollen auch dazu gestrickt bzw gezählt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Ginette 08.02.2017 - 18:33:

Merci pour l'information mais après avoir terminé mon rang je suis sur le rang envers au point mousse dois-je faire les 11 mailles de A1 au point mousse ou suivre A1 c'est à dire 11 mailles à l'envers.

DROPS Design 09.02.2017 kl. 08:29:

Bonjour Ginette, les mailles de A.1 se tricotent ainsi sur l'endroit: 1 m env, 1 m end, 2 m env, 3 m end, 2 m env, 1 m end, 1 m env et sur l'envers: 1 m end, 1 m env, 2 m end, 3 m env, 2 m end, 1 m env, 1 m end. Ces mailles de A.1 doivent toujours se tricoter ainsi. Les augmentations du raglan se tricotent au point mousse. Bon tricot!

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