DROPS / 165 / 36

Toulouse by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS dress with lace pattern and round yoke, worked top down in ”Cotton Merino”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no cm-035
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials:
DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio
500-550-650-700-750-850 g color no 23, lavender

DROPS CROCHET Hook size 4 mm / G/6 – or size needed to get 18 dc x 9 rounds = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

50% Wool, 50% Cotton
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DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour 4.30 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
On every dc round, replace first dc with 3 ch and finish round with 1 sl st in first 3rd ch from beg of round.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 dc by working 2 dc in 1 dc.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Choose diagram for correct size. A.1 shows how pattern beg and ends.
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YOKE:
Worked in the round, top down, beg mid back. Work 128-138-138-163-168-173 ch on hook size 4 mm / G/6 with Cotton Merino and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. Work next round as follows: Work 3 ch (= 1 dc) - READ CROCHET INFO, 1 dc in first ch from ch-ring, 1 dc in each of the next ch 2, * skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round = 104-112-112-132-136-140 dc. On next round, inc 16-20-20-24-44-52 dc evenly - READ INCREASE TIP = 120-132-132-156-180-192 dc.

Continue to work as follows: Work A.1 over the first 6 dc, A.2 over the next 12-12-12-18-24-24 dc (= 2-2-2-3-4-4 times in total), A.3 over the next 12 dc (= 2 times in total), A.2 over the next 6-6-6-12-12-12 dc (= 1-1-1-2-2-2 times), A.3 over the next 12 dc (= 2 times), A.2 over the next 30-36-36-42-54-60 dc (= 5-6-6-7-9-10 times), A.3 over the next 12 dc (= 2 times), A.2 over the next 6-6-6-12-12-12 dc (= 1-1-1-2-2-2 times), A.3 over the next 12 dc (= 2 times), A.2 over the last 12-18-18-18-24-30 dc (= 2-3-3-3-4-5 times). NOTE: In size S+XL+XXL beg round a little towards one side so that pattern fits. Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! When A.1/A.2 have been worked 1 time vertically, repeat them upwards.

When A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 240-252-292-316-340-352 dc on round. Piece measures approx. 18-18-20-20-22-22 cm / 7"-7"-8"-8"-8 3/4"-8 3/4" (measured from neck edge).

Now work as follows (= 6th round in A.1/A.2): Work 1 dc in each of the first 39-39-44-50-56-56 dc (= half back piece), work 6-6-8-8-8-8 ch, skip 48-48-58-64-64-64 dc (= armhole), work 1 dc in each of the next 72-78-88-94-106-112 dc (= front piece), work 6-6-8-8-8-8 ch, skip 48-48-58-64-64-64 dc (= armhole), work 1 dc in each of the last 33-39-44-44-50-56 dc = 144-156-176-188-212-224 dc and 6-6-8-8-8-8 ch in each side of piece (= 156-168-192-204-228-240 sts in total). Insert 1 marker in piece, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE.

BODY:
Work next round as follows (= 7th round in A.1/A.2): Work A.1 1 time, then work A.2 over the remaining 150-162-186-198-222-234 dc/ch (= 25-27-31-33-37-39 times in total in width). Continue working the pattern vertically. AT THE SAME TIME on round with arrow in diagram inc 12 dc evenly (i.e. work 2 dc in every 13th-14th-16th-17th-19th-20th dc) = 168-180-204-216-240-252 dc. Repeat A.2 2 times more in width. Repeat inc every 10 cm / 4'', adjust to inc on a round with dc, 3 more times = 204-216-240-252-276-288 dc. For every inc, repeat A.2 2 times more in width. After last inc, repeat A.2 33-35-39-41-45-47 times in total in width. When piece measures approx. 44-46-46-48-48-50 cm / 17 1/4"-18"-18"-19"-19"-19 3/4" (from marker) – adjust so that last round is a round with dc, work A.y 3 times in total vertically. Then work A.z 1 time vertically. Piece measures approx. 78-80-82-84-86-88 cm / 30¾''-31½''-32¼''-33''-33 7/8''-34 5/8'' in total from neck edge. Fasten off.

SLEEVE EDGE:
Worked in the round. Beg mid under sleeve. Work 1 sl st in 4th ch mid under sleeve, ch 3, 1 dc in each of the next 2-2-4-4-4-4 ch, 1 dc in each of the 48-48-58-64-64-64 dc for sleeve AT THE SAME TIME dec 6-6-4-4-0-0 dc evenly and 1 dc in each of the last 3 ch cast on under sleeve = 48-48-62-68-72-72 dc. Work 2 rounds with 1 dc in every dc. Fasten off. Work a sleeve edge on the other sleeve.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= ch
= sl st
= sc in st
= sc around ch
= dc in st
= dc around ch
= beg round with 4 ch and finish with 1 sl st in 4th ch
= beg round with 3 ch and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch
= first round is explained in pattern
= crochet direction




Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 165-36) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (30)

Alena 05.02.2020 - 11:49:

Dobrý den, prosím Vás u těchto šatů o radu. Dokončila jsem sedlo sekvencí vzoru A3 a mám 316 DS. Dále pokračuji 6 kruhovou řadou A1/A2 a pak 7 kruhovou řadou, ale vzniknou mi tři řady dlouhých sloupků a na obrázku vidím jen 2. Děkuji za odpověď

Tracey 29.11.2019 - 14:40:

I completed 3 rd row now. So now it asking when a1 a2 have been worked 1 time vertically repeat them upwards. So do I do a1 row then a2. Then a1 then a2. Or just go up on a2 chart thanks.

DROPS Design 29.11.2019 kl. 15:48:

Dear Tracey, you continue working the same diagrams as for previous round, ie A.1, A.2, A.3 , etc... in the same order as before, working each row in each diagram. You are increasing stitches in A.3, while the number of stitches in A.1 and A.2 will remain the same. Happy crocheting!

Tracey 29.11.2019 - 12:25:

Hi I have done 1 row as 4 tr and skip stitch. 4 tr. to end. Then second row I increased so I have 120 now. Instead of 104. So I know that right. But now it says continue to work as follows. Work a1 over the first 6 tr. is that 1 row Cause if I do 30 times tr 5 times. And the other stitches aswell. It not going to fit on the same row. As I only got 120 sts. As I’m doing the small size. Plz help with diagram. I’m still learning to do crochet.

DROPS Design 29.11.2019 kl. 13:00:

Dear Tracey, work first row each diagram at a time, ie row 1 in A.1 over the first 6 sts, then repeat row 1 in A.2 a total of 2 times (= over the next 12 sts), row 1 in A.3 over the next 12 sts (= 2 times in width), and so on. On next round, work row 2 each diagram, then row 3 and so on. read more here. Happy crocheting!

Irma 28.09.2017 - 15:45:

: Work A.1 over the first 6 dc, A.2 over the next 12-12-12-18-24-24 dc (= 2-2-2-3-4-4 times in total), A.3 over the next 12 dc (= 2 times in total), A.2 over the next 6-6-6-12-12-12 dc (= 1-1-1-2-2-2 times), A.3 over the next 12 dc (= 2 times), ............... A.3 over the next 12 dc (= 2 times), A.2 over the last 12-18-18-18-24-30 dc (= 2-3-3-3-4-5 times) After above round how many stitches should i have for xl.

DROPS Design 28.09.2017 kl. 17:22:

Dear Irma, after this round, you will still have 156 sts in XL,ie as before since you work 1 st in the st from previous row, see diagram. Happy crocheting!

Afshan Raheel 27.09.2017 - 18:43:

How many stitches after row 2?

DROPS Design 28.09.2017 kl. 09:31:

Dear Mrs Afsha, after row 1 you will have the same number of sts as you will not increase in row 1 - It can be a good idea to insert a marker between each repetition so that you can easily follow your work and the diagram. Happy crocheting!

Afsha Raheel 27.09.2017 - 18:22:

Plz help me with 2nd row of yoke. It will be double crochet in each stich ? If we do not divide in a1 a2 a3? And 3rd row. What is above a1 6 dc? If its according to diagram then what does row 2 mentions a2 4 time a3 2 time????

DROPS Design 28.09.2017 kl. 09:30:

Dear Mrs Afsha, on 2nd round on yoke you will work 1st row in each diagram as stated, ie in the 2 larger sizes you will work 2nd round as follows: A.1 over the first 6dc, A.2 over the next 24dc (= 4times in total = repeat 4 times in width row 1 in A.2)), A.3 over the next 12dc (= 2times in total), A.2 over the next 12 dc (= 2 times), A.3 over the next 12 dc (= 2 times), A.2 over the next 54-60 dc (= 9-10 times), A.3 over the next 12 dc (= 2 times), A.2 over the next 12 dc (= 2 times), A.3 over the next 12 dc (= 2 times), A.2 over the last 24-30 dc (= 4-5 times). Happy crocheting!

Asraa 30.08.2017 - 19:22:

Hi. I have just completed A3 and the 5th rounds of A1 and A2 for the size medium. However the count of my tr stitches is only 196.If I count the chain stitches in between then the stitch count goes well over 252. However if I apply some mathematics and get the stitch by multiplying the number of tr stitches in each mode (A1,A2,A3) by the number of times they are repeated it comes out as 196= 2 (for A1) +26(for A2) +168(for A3). Kindly help me with this.

DROPS Design 31.08.2017 kl. 06:12:

Dear Asraa, by the time you finish the last row of pattern A.3 you should have the following stitch counts: A.1 (6 sts), A.2 (12 sts), A.3 (2 x 21= 42 sts), A.2 (6 sts), A.3 (42 sts), A.2 (36 sts), A.3 (42 sts), A.2 (6 sts), A.3 (42 sts) A.2 (18 sts) that adds up to 252 sts, hich is the number of stitches you have to continue to work with. I hope this helps. Happy Crocheting!

Asraa 28.08.2017 - 17:59:

Hi. I have just started this pattern and I am a bit confused in the 3rd round for the yoke. It says to work A1 in the first 6 trebles. Am I supposed to the entire A1 as is showed in the diagram i.e. the entire vertical line? Or am I supposed to do the first rows of each A1, A2 and A3 for this round and then proceed to the next rows in the upcoming rounds?

DROPS Design 29.08.2017 kl. 09:05:

Dear Asraa, work the first row in A.1 over the firt 6 tr, then work first row of A.2, A.3 etc.. on same row, you will work diagrams row by row. Happy crocheting!

Mai Kruse 06.07.2017 - 00:00:

Hejsa, jeg er netop blevet færdig med A1 og A2 i højden. Nu skal jeg færdiggøre A3 i højden og fortsætte forfra med A1 og A2. Men så vil mønstret jo ikke gå op? Mvh mai

DROPS Design 12.07.2017 kl. 14:07:

Hej Mai, jo du fortsætter alle 3 diagrammer, det er samme mønter hele vejen rundt, men A.3 viser hvordan du tager ud. God fornøjelse!

Sunny 23.03.2017 - 15:41:

Hello, I am at the body part, size M. What is it mean by "Repeat A.2 2 times more in width"? does it mean to do 2 rows of A.2? or A.2 needs to be done twice for every A.2 pattern by looking at the beginning of the YOKE (A.1, A.2, and A.3 are listed) thank you!

DROPS Design 23.03.2017 kl. 16:17:

Dear Sunny, you have just inc 12 sts evenly, and A.2 = 6 sts in width, so that you have now enough room to work 2 more repeats of A.2 in width over the 180 sts = work A.1 1 time in width, then repeat A.2 29 times in total in width = 180 sts. Happy crocheting!

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