DROPS / 164 / 10

Winter Poppies Slippers by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS slippers with Nordic pattern and pompoms in ”Andes”.

Tags: nordic, slippers,
DROPS design: Pattern no an-032
Yarn group E or C + C
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Sizes: US: 5/6½ - 7½/9 - 9½/10½
EU: 35/37 - 38/40 - 41/43
Foot length: approx. 22 - 24 - 27 cm / 8¾''-9½''-10½''
Materials:
DROPS ANDES from Garnstudio
100 g for all sizes of the following colors:
color no 9020, light gray
color no 3755, cerise

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 4 mm / US 6 - or size needed to get 15 sts x 19 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 7.85 $ /100g
DROPS Andes uni colour DROPS Andes uni colour 7.85 $ /100g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Andes mix DROPS Andes mix 8.25 $ /100g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.55$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Work entire pattern in stockinette st.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st on each side of the middle 2 sts by making 1 YO, on next row work the YOs twisted to avoid holes.
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SLIPPER:
Piece is worked back and forth on needle from mid back, beg at the top and work downwards.
Cast on 40-40-52 sts on needle size 4 mm / US 6 with light gray. Work 5 rows in stockinette st (1st row = P from WS). Insert 1 marker in the middle of piece and 1 marker in one of the sides - NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM MARKER IN THE SIDE.
Work next row as follows from RS: 1 edge st in GARTER ST - see explanation above, work pattern according to diagram A.1A until 1 st remains before marker in the middle of needle (= 3-3-4 repetitions of 6 sts), work 2 sts in stockinette st with light gray (= mid front of slipper), work pattern according to diagram A.1B over the next 18-18-24 sts and finish with 1 edge st in GARTER ST. Continue pattern like this (when A.1 has been worked, continue with light gray until finished measurements). REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 3-3-4 cm / 1"-1"-1½" from marker in the side inc 1 st on each side of the 2 middle sts on needle – READ INCREASE TIP (= 2 sts inc). Repeat inc on every row (i.e. from both RS and WS) 17-19-18 times in total = 74-78-88 sts - NOTE: Work the inc sts in the pattern. After last inc bind off 5 sts at beg of the next 2 rows = 64-68-78 sts remain on needle and piece measures approx. 12-13-13 cm / 4 3/4"-5"-5" from marker in the side.
Work 27-29-34 sts, slip these sts on 1 stitch holder or spare needle, work the next 10 sts (= mid front on slipper) and slip the remaining 27-29-34 sts on 1 stitch holder or spare needle. Work in garter st back and forth over the 10 sts (= sole) AT THE SAME TIME K last st on every row (both from RS and WS) tog with first st on stitch holder/spare needle. Repeat until all sts on stitch holder/spare needle in each side have been worked. Bind off the 10 sts in garter st on sole.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew seam mid back on slipper - sew edge to edge in outer loops of edge sts in garter st to avoid a chunky seam. Then sew bind-off edge on sole to slipper mid back where there is an opening.

POMPOM:
Make a pompom with cerise, 4-5 cm / 1½"-2" in diameter and fasten it at the front of slipper.
Knit another slipper.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 13.10.2017
Correction: 100 g more of colour no 9020, light grey. DROPS ANDES from Garnstudio 200-200-200 g colour no 9020, light grey

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= light grey
= cerise

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 164-10) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (16)

Irene 01.09.2019 - 23:02:

Zijn deze slofjes geschikt om te vilten?

DROPS Design 08.09.2019 kl. 18:06:

Dag Irene,

Ja, dat zou je zeker kunnen doen. Het garen Andes is ook heel geschikt om mee te vilten. Houd er wel rekening mee dat er gemiddeld ongeveer 2/3 over blijft na het vilten, dus je zult de slofjes een stuk groter moeten breien.

Karina 21.04.2018 - 00:06:

Bonjour, quand j'arrive à l'étape des augmentations, je suis perdue. J'arrive à suivre le motif sans soucis quand il n'y a pas d'augmentations à faire. J'ai réussi à les faire aux rangs 5 et 6 avec les augmentations car cette étape est présente dans le tutoriel vidéo. Mais après c'est le vide... Avez-vous une astuce pour faire les augmentations en jacquard, comment lire le motif dans ce cas là? Merci.

DROPS Design 23.04.2018 kl. 08:27:

Bonjour Karina, vous augmentez après A.1A et avant A.1B en répétant les diagrammes: pour A.1A, les nouvelles mailles tricotées le seront en reprenant le diagramme à partir de la 1ère m à droite (dès que vous aurez augmenté 6 m = 1 motif complet) et pour A.1B, répétez le diagramme en le commençant par la dernière m de A.1B (puis l'avant-dernière et ainsi de suite jusqu'à ce que les 6 m augmentées vous donnent un motif complet). Bon tricot!

Carole 10.12.2017 - 03:07:

I wrote in French a question but dont get an answer. In the pattern its written to place a marker in the middle and 1 any side... where is that? And also mesure from the side marker... I really dont understand can you please write it more clearly for me please Thanks

DROPS Design 10.12.2017 kl. 06:55:

Hi Carole, The marker in the side is just for measuring purposes, so it doesn't matter which side, so at the start or end of the row and the length of the piece is measured from here. The marker in the middle is mid front of slipper and helps to make the two sides of the slipper match, I hope this helps and happy knitting!

Carole 08.12.2017 - 17:49:

Bonjour Dans le patron ça demande de mettre un marqueur au milieu et sur le côté. Que voulez-vous dire sur le côté ... où exactement pour le côté. Ça dit également de mesurer à partir de ce marqueur à 3 cm je ne comprends vraiment pas comment faire. Pouvez-vous me dire plus clairement svp. Merci de m'aider

DROPS Design 11.12.2017 kl. 08:36:

Bonjour Carole, mettez le marqueur en début ou en fin de rang (= sur le côté de l'ouvrage). On va désormais mesurer la hauteur le long de ce côté (au milieu devant, on va augmenter, la hauteur sera donc différente). Pour vous aider, regardez cette vidéo qui montre comment réaliser les chaussons en 35/37. Bon tricot!

Sara 01.12.2017 - 19:36:

Når man skal strikke de nye masker ind i mønsteret, strikker man så gradvist en ny omgang af A.1A før midtermarkøren og tilføjer en ny omgang gradvist i A.1B når de første 3 omgange er strikket? Er det rigtigt forstået sådan? vh Sara

DROPS Design 05.12.2017 kl. 15:32:

Sara, når du har en ny maske, skal den strikkes i den farve du er kommet til hvis du skulle fortsætte mønsteret. God fornøjelse!

Jenny Bellamy 04.10.2017 - 11:32:

I ordered the yarn for these slippers, but thought there may not be enough to complete two slippers. Sure enough I finished knitting one slipper yesterday, and there is not enough of the light grey. I believe that the quantities at the beginning of the pattern are incorrect, and should read 200grams of grey and 100grams of cerise for the pair of slippers. I love your patterns and yarns and this is the first time in many years that there has been something wrong.

Nataliya Hagen 29.11.2016 - 13:00:

Det er ikke nok 100 gr av hovedfaget å strikke disse.Ikke i det hele tatt.?

Lacrose 21.10.2016 - 21:33:

Bonjour, vous annoncez un no d'aig 4 alors que la laine andes se tricote en 9, il y a erreur? une faute de frappe? merci

DROPS Design 24.10.2016 kl. 09:04:

Bonjour Mme Lacrose, on tricote ici volontairement avec des aiguilles plus petites pour obtenir une texture plus serrée. Pensez à bien vérifier votre échantillon et ajustez la taille des aiguilles si besoin. Bon tricot!

Cecilie 09.12.2015 - 12:04:

Jeg undrer mig over at opskriften siger pinde nr. 4, når der til Andes garn anbefales pinde nr. 9 og de andre garner i garngruppe E også ligger på pinde nr. 8 eller 9. Er dette en fejl?

DROPS Design 09.12.2015 kl. 12:34:

Hej Cecilie. Nej, det er det ikke. Standard anbefales pinde 9 til Andes, men strikkefastheden til disse töfler er fastere (de strikkes strammere), saa du skal bruge en tyndere pind. Strik en pröve og brug den pind du skal bruge til den rette strikkefasthed: 15 m x 19 p glatstrik = 10 x 10 cm

Andreya 09.11.2015 - 11:55:

Can you post a video tutorial please? Thanks, have a nice day!

DROPS Design 09.11.2015 kl. 13:22:

Dear Andreya, here it is below - You can find this video and more under tab "video" on the right side of the picture. Happy knitting!

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