DROPS / 164 / 19

Sweet Winter by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jumper with Nordic pattern, round yoke, high collar and rib, worked top down in 2 strands ”Brushed Alpaca Silk” or 1 strand ”Melody”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no as-040
Yarn group C+C (or D)
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
100-125-125-150-150-175 g color no 03, gray
50-75-75-75-75-100 g color no 01, off white
50-50-50-50-50-75 g color no 08, heather
25 g for all sizes in color no 02, light gray.
Or use:
DROPS MELODY from Garnstudio
100-150-150-150-150-200 g color no 04, gray
50-100-100-100-100-100 g color nr 01, off white
50-50-50-50-50-100 g color no 10, heather
50 g in all sizes color no 03, pearl gray

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 6 mm/US 10 - or size needed to get 13 sts x 17 rows in stockinette st with 2 strands ”Brushed Alpaca Silk” or 1 strand ”Melody” = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 5.5 mm - for rib.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 2.75 $ /25g
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour 2.75 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.75$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the knitting gauge to tighten when working pattern, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Switch to a higher needle no when working pattern if the pattern is somewhat tight.

DOUBLE YARN TIP:
Use yarn from both inside and outside of the ball. When switching to a new ball, try to avoid switching both strands at the same time - to avoid a thick yarn when fastening.

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1-A.2. Work all pattern sts in stockinette st with 2 strands Brushed Alpaca Silk (= BAS) og 1 strand Melody (= M).

DECREASE TIP:
Work until 3 sts remain before marker, K 2 tog, 2 sts in stockinette st (marker is in the middle of these 2 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec).

INCREASE TIP:
Inc alternately before and after marker.
Inc as follows before marker: Work until 1 st before marker, 1 YO.
Inc as follows after marker: 1 st in stockinette st, 1 YO.
On next round K YO twisted (i.e. work in the back loop of st instead of front) to avoid holes.
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JUMPER:
Work in the round on circular needle, top down - READ DOUBLE YARN TIP. Rounds beg = mid back.

YOKE:
Cast on 96-100-104-108-112-120 sts on circular needle size 5.5 mm / US 9 with 2 strands gray Brushed Alpaca Silk and 1 strand gray Melody. Work rib = K 2/P 2 for 20-20-21-21-22-22 cm / 8''-8''-8¼''-8¼''-8¾''-8¾''. Switch to circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 and work 1 round in stockinette st – AT THE SAME TIME dec 28-30-32-32-34-40 sts evenly = 68-70-72-76-78-80 sts. Work 1 more round in stockinette st. On next round, inc 18-20-26-30-36-38 sts evenly = 86-90-98-106-114-118 sts. On next round insert 6 markers in the piece as follows: Work 8-8-9-11-10-12 sts, insert a marker, then insert 5 markers 14-15-16-17-19-19 sts apart, 8-7-9-10-9-11 sts remain on round after last marker. On next round inc 1 st at every marker – see INCREASE TIP. Repeat inc at every marker on every round 0-0-1-3-6-7 more times, every other round 13-16-18-18-17-18 times and every 3rd round 3-2-0-0-0-0 times = 188-204-218-238-258-274 sts. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE
Now continue as follows: Work the first 24-27-29-33-37-40 sts (= half back piece), slip the next 46-48-50-52-54-56 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 6 new sts under sleeve, work the next 48-54-59-67-75-81 sts (= front piece), slip the next 46-48-50-52-54-56 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 6 new sts under sleeve, work the remaining 24-27-30-34-38-41 sts on round (= half back piece). Piece measures approx. 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm / 8''-8¼''-8¾''-9''-9½''-9¾''.

BODY:
There are now 108-120-130-146-162-174 sts for body. Insert a marker in each side of body where new sts were cast on under sleeves (= 3 new sts on each side of marker). NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. Now work 1-1-2-2-2-3 rounds with gray (2 strands Brushed Alpaca Silk/ 1 strand Melody), AT THE SAME TIME on last round adjust no of sts to 108-120-132-144-168-180 sts. Now work pattern A.1 (= 12 sts) 9-10-11-12-14-15 times in width - READ KNITTING TIP. When entire A.1 has been worked vertically, continue with A.2 (= 8 sts) over all sts and inc 4-8-4-8-8-4 sts on 1st round in diagram = 112-128-136-152-176-184 sts. When entire A.2 has been worked vertically, piece measures 33-33-34-34-34-35 cm / 13"-13"-13½"-13½"-13½"-13 3/4''. Now work 1-2-2-2-3-3 rounds in stockinette st with gray (2 strands Brushed Alpaca Silk/ 1 strand Melody), AT THE SAME TIME on last round inc 20-20-24-24-28-28 sts evenly = 132-148-160-176-204-212 sts. Now work rib = K 2/P 2 for 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm / 1 1/8''-1 1/8''-1 1/8''-1½''-1½''-1½''. Bind off sts with K over K and P over P. Piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26'' in total.

SLEEVE:
Work sleeve in the round on circular needle/double pointed needles. There are 46-48-50-52-54-56 sts for each sleeve. Slip sts from stitch holder back on circular needle/double pointed needles size 6 mm / US 10 and cast on 6 new sts under sleeve = 52-54-56-58-60-62 sts. Insert a marker in the middle of these new sts (i.e. 3 new sts on each side of marker). NOTE: This is beg of round. Work with grey (2 strands Brushed Alpaca Silk/ 1 strand Melody) as follows: Work the first 25-26-27-28-29-30 sts, insert a marker in next st, work the remaining 26-27-28-29-30-31 sts. On next round, work pattern A.1 (= 12 sts). NOTE: Adjust so that the 7th st in diagram (see arrow) fits with st with marker in the middle of sleeve. I.e. pattern repetition does not fit under sleeve but work pattern over all sts on sleeve and the pattern will then be symmetrical under sleeve.
When piece measures 3 cm / 1'', dec 1 st on each side of marker under sleeve - READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every 3-2½-2½-2½-2½-2½ cm / 1 1/8"-7/8"-7/8"-7/8"-7/8"-7/8" 10-11-11-11-12-12 more times = 30-30-32-34-34-36 sts. When A.1 has been worked vertically, continue with A.2. NOTE: Adjust so that the 5th st in diagram (see arrow) fits with st with marker in the middle of sleeve. I.e. pattern repetition does not fit under sleeve but work pattern over all sts on sleeve. When A.2 has been worked vertically the sleeve measures 33 cm / 13'' in all sizes. Now continue with gray (2 strands Brushed Alpaca Silk/ 1 strand Melody) until finished measurements. Work 3-3-3-2-2-2 rounds in stockinette st, AT THE SAME TIME on last round inc 2-2-0-2-2-0 sts evenly = 32-32-32-36-36-36 sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 5.5 mm / US 9 and work rib K 2/P 2 until sleeve measures 45-45-45-44-44-44 cm / 17 3/4"-17 3/4"-17 3/4"-17 1/4"-17 1/4"-17 1/4" in total. Cast/bind off sts with K over K and P over P. Make another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 26.02.2016
The measurement on neck has been edited, the measurement for neck is after the high neck in rib.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= 2 strands heather BAS or 1 strand heather M
= 2 strands light grey BAS or 1 strand pearl grey M
= 2 strands off white BAS or 1 strand off white M
= 2 strands grey BAS or 1 strand grey M
= increase round - see explanation in pattern


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 164-19) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (17)

Heike 17.05.2019 - 22:08:

Was genau ist mit folgendem Satz gemeint (Abschnitt "Passe"): "Diese Zunahmen an jedem Markierer in jeder Rd noch weitere 0-0-1-3-6-7 x wdh, dann in jeder 2. Rd 13-16-18-18-17-18 x arb und danach in jeder 3. Rd 3-2-0-0-0-0 x (= 188-204-218-238-258-274 M)." Ist mit "in jeder 2. Rd 13-16-18-18-17-18 x arb" einfach nur zunehmen gemeint oder muss ich bei "arb" etwas besonderes beachten? Danke und viele Grüße!

DROPS Design 20.05.2019 kl. 09:47:

Liebe Heike, Sie sollen an jedem Markierer in jeder 2. Rd 13-16-18-18-17-18 x zunehmen = 6 Zunahmen in jeder 2. Rd 13-16-18-18-17-18 x. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Ida Baas 29.11.2018 - 13:47:

Hallo...Ik ben begonnen met de Drops 164-19 en die wordt gebreid met alpaca silk of met Melody. Nu moet ik van alpaca silk dubbel draads en de melody enkel draads..ik brei de trui met de alpaca silk 2 draads...nu komt mijn vraag...hoe komt het dat ik van beide wolsoorten even veel lengte nodig heeft terwijl ik de alpaca dubbel draad moet breien...dan kom ik toch te kort als naar de lengte van melody kijkt want ze zijn allebei 140 mtr lang....wil wel graag antwoord hierop...d.j.w.

DROPS Design 06.12.2018 kl. 11:13:

Dag Ida,

Brushed Alpaca Silk heeft 25 gram per bol :)

Kirsten Maathuis 06.02.2017 - 16:21:

Kunt u me helpen met het volgende, heb de Col gebreid en 90 steken op de pen. Heb 6 markeerders geplaats maar kom uit het volgende stuk niet uit. Meerder in de volgende nld 1 st bij elke markeerder – zie TIP VOOR HET MEERDEREN. Herhaal dit meerderen bij elke markeerder elke nld nog 0 keer, om de nld 16 keer en elke 3e nld 2 keer = 204 Brei de trui in maat M alvast dank voor uw hulp

DROPS Design 07.02.2017 kl. 13:47:

Hoi Kirsten. Je meerdert 1 st bij elke markeerder = + 6 per keer. Je meerder 16 keer om de nld (in elke 2e nld) = + 6x16 st = 96 en 2 keer in elke 3e nld = 6x3 = 18 st: 92+96+2 = 206 st op de nld.

Carmen 10.12.2016 - 02:49:

Me gustaría saber si este patrón quedaría bien utilizando la lana Air y si esta hace muchas bolitas o suelta pelusa. Gracias

DROPS Design 10.12.2016 kl. 20:47:

Hola Carmen. Este modelo tiene hecho el cálculo para las lanas del grupo D. Air pertenece al grupo C lo cual significa que hay que hacer nuevos cálculos para trabajar con esta calidad. Air es una lana de muy alta calidad y ni forma bolitas ni suelta mucha pelusa.

Lotte 22.01.2016 - 21:47:

Bei der Maschenprobe habe ich immer die korrekte Breite aber nie die richtige Höhe, was muss ich verändern?

DROPS Design 30.01.2016 kl. 11:25:

Stricken Sie die Maschenprobe ausreichend groß? D.h. es sollte ein Probestück von mindestens ca. 13 x 13 cm sein, bei dem Sie dann die mittleren 10 cm ausmessen. Die Maschenprobe in der Breite ist meistens wichtiger als die in der Höhe, denn fehlende Höhe lässt sich dadurch ausgleichen, dass mehr R gestrickt werden und die Höhenangaben erfolgen sowieso meistens in cm. Bei diesem Modell müssen Sie darauf achten, dass die Passe hoch genug wird, ggf. müssen Sie noch Zwischenrunden einbauen, wenn die Maschenprobe in der Höhe nicht stimmt.

M.carmen Herranz Gimeno 08.12.2015 - 08:01:

El patrón está equivocado al principio. Una vez que se hace el cuello, pone aumentar, cuando lo que quiere decir es disminuir. Si tengo 104 y se queda en 72 digo yo que hay que restar, no sumar

ClaudiaCarolina 27.11.2015 - 16:13:

Delight e Alpaca! CHE FELICITA'!.... stampo subito il modello specialmente per la sezione del disegno con le misure in cm. per tenerlo tra le mie priorità 2016.... sicuramente mi piacerà tantissimo e mi divertirò tantissimo a farlo... non appena finisco 3 o 4 lavori in corso... GRAZIE MILLE PER LA RISPOSTA!

Claudia Carolina 06.11.2015 - 16:26:

Grazie Drops per tanti modelli fantastici. Mi piace tanto questo modello, vorrei farlo, con il relativo campione e calcolando le giuste proporzioni e aghi relativi 2,5 e 3: con un colore Delight al posto del grigio perché mi piace tantissimo usarlo e 3 colori di Alpaca al posto degli altri colori secondari. E' possibile o verrebbe male? Grazie di nuovo. cc.

DROPS Design 23.11.2015 kl. 13:50:

Buongiorno Claudia, Delight e Alpaca sono due filati che spesso vengono utilizzati insieme, però tutto il modello va riprogettato: sicuramente verrà benissimo anche il questa variante. Buon lavoro!

Gerlinda Verbeeck 06.11.2015 - 12:50:

Ik ben vol goede moed begonnen aan Drops 164- 19, maar in de beschrijving zit denk ik een foutje. Opgezet in maat m 100 st voor 20cm kraag en dan meerderen maar na de eerste keer meerderen (30 st) kom ik op 130 st uit ipv 70 st kan iemand me verder helpen? alvast bedankt

DROPS Design 06.11.2015 kl. 13:02:

Hoi Gerlinda. Het moet minderen zijn natuurlijk. Ik heb het foutje aangepast. Bedankt voor het melden.

Lola 05.11.2015 - 22:33:

Bonjour, il est indiqué qu'il faut monter 96m. Une fois la partie en côtes 2/2 terminée, il faut passer au jersey et faire 28 augmentations. Si je compte bien, on arrive donc à 124m. Or dans les explications, il est indiqué qu'on arrive à 68m. Je vous avoue que je suis perdue... Nulle part on ne parle de diminution. Je trouve ce modèle très beau et j'aimerais vraiment pouvoir le faire. Merci pour votre aide!

DROPS Design 06.11.2015 kl. 12:58:

Bonjour Lola et merci, il faut effectivement répartir 28 diminutions pour arriver à 68 m (la correction a été faite), puis répartir 18 augmentations (en taille S). Bon tricot!

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