DROPS / 165 / 22

Clementine by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket with lace pattern in "Brushed Alpaca Silk" and "Fabel". Worked top down. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no fa-308
Yarn group A + C or D
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Size: S/M - L/XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
250-300-350-400 g, color no 905, salt and pepper
and use:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
175-200-225-275 g color no 02, light gray

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 6 mm/US 10 – or size needed to get 14 sts x 16 rows in stockinette st with 1 strand of each yarn = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 5 mm/US 8 – for rib.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 3.35 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 3.75 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 3.95 $ /25g
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour 3.95 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 43.65$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in pattern seen from RS. First row in A.1 is worked from WS.

INCREASE TIP:
All inc are done from RS. Inc with 1 YO between 2 sts, work YO twisted on next row to avoid holes.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 233-269-305-323 sts on circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 with 1 strand Brushed Alpaca Silk and 1 strand Fabel (= 2 strands). Work as follows from WS: Work 8 band sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above, 1 st in stockinette st, A.1 (= 18 sts) over the next 216-252-288-306 sts (= 12-14-16-17 times in width), finish with 8 band sts in garter st. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 161-185-209-221 sts on needle. Then work piece in stockinette st with 8 band sts in garter st in each side of piece. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When piece measures 15-17-21-21 cm / 6"-6 3/4"-8 1/4"-8 1/4", adjust so that next row is from RS and work as follows: Work as before over the first 53-60-67-72 sts, 7 sts in garter st, 41-51-61-63 sts in stockinette st, 7 sts in garter st, as before over the last 53-60-67-72 sts. Repeat row from WS. On next row from RS bind off the middle of the 7 sts in garter st for armhole = 159-183-207-219 sts. Finish each part separately to make an opening for armhole.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Keep the first 56-63-70-75 sts on needle (seen from RS) and slip the remaining 103-120-137-144 sts on a stitch holder. Work in stockinette st with 3 sts in garter st towards armhole and 8 band sts in garter st towards mid front. Work until piece measures 32-35-40-41 cm / 12½"-13 3/4"-15 3/4"-16". Slip sts on a stitch holder and work right front piece.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Slip the last 56-63-70-75 sts from stitch holder (seen from RS) back on needle, work as left front piece. Adjust measurements and rows according to left front piece. Slip sts on 1 stitch holder and work back piece.

BACK PIECE AND BODY:
Slip the remaining 47-57-67-69 sts from stitch holder back on needle. Work in stockinette st with 3 sts in garter st in each side. Work until piece measures 32-35-40-41 cm / 12½"-13 3/4"-15 3/4"-16". Adjust measurements and row according to left front piece. Cut yarn and slip all three parts back on circular needle size 6 mm / US 10. Work 8 band sts in garter st, 45-52-59-64 sts in stockinette st, 3 sts in garter st, cast on 1 new st, 3 sts in garter st, 41-51-61-63 sts in stockinette st, 3 sts in garter st, cast on 1 new st, 3 sts in garter st, 45-52-59-64 sts in stockinette st, finish with 8 band sts in garter st = 161-185-209-221 sts. Work 1 ridge over the 7 sts in garter st under sleeve, 8 band sts in garter st in each side of piece and stockinette st over the remaining sts. Then work piece in stockinette st with 8 sts in garter st in each side of piece. When piece measures 65-69-75-77 cm / 25½"-27"-29½"-30½" (adjust so that last row is from RS), switch to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8. Work as follows: 8 sts in garter st, stockinette st over the next 145-169-193-205 sts, AT THE SAME TIME inc 45-53-57-61 sts evenly over these sts - read INCREASE TIP, finish with 8 sts in garter st = 206-238-266-282 sts. On next row work as follows: 8 sts in garter st, rib (= K 2/P 2) until 10 sts remain, K 2, finish with 8 sts in garter st. Work rib for 6 cm / 2 3/8''. Bind off sts with K over K and P over P.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 30-32-34-36 sts (includes 1 edge st in each side of piece) on circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 with 1 strand Brushed Alpaca Silk + 1 strand Fabel (= 2 strands). Work in stockinette st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side of piece until finished measurements. When piece measures 10 cm / 4'', inc 1 st inside 1 edge st in each side of piece. Repeat inc every 4½ cm / 1 3/4" 9-9-10-10 more times = 50-52-56-58 sts. When piece measures 54-56-59-60 cm / 21 1/4"-22"-23 1/4"-23½", bind off for sleeve cap in each side of piece at beg of every row as follows: bind off 4 sts 4 times in total = 18-20-24-26 sts. Bind off the remaining sts. Piece measures approx. 57-59-62-63 cm / 22½"-23 1/4"-24½"-24 3/4". Make another sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew in sleeves. Sew underarm seams inside one edge st.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= K from WS
= 1 YO between 2 sts
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
= knitting direction


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 165-22) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (17)

Annica Nilsson 13.11.2019 - 19:11:

Hej. Jag skulle vilja sticka modellen Clementine Stickad DROPS fyrkantskofta i tunnare garn. Man ska använda 2 garner tillsammans. Jag skulle vilja sticka den i garn grupp a eller möjligtvis grupp b. (Tycker att den blir för tjock och varm i det garnet som avses.) Hälsningar Anki Manki

DROPS Design 14.11.2019 kl. 11:38:

Hei Annica! Vi har mange andre lignende mønstre i tynnere strikkefasthet, for eksempel: DROPS 191-6 DROPS 177-32 DROPS 129-3 DROPS 129-1 Vi håper du finner noe du liker!

Carole Rousseaux 27.02.2018 - 13:49:

Dommage, impossible de convertir le fichier pdf en fichier image

DROPS Design 27.02.2018 kl. 14:02:

Bonjour Mme Rousseaux, nos modèles et photos ne sont pas disponibles sous la forme de pdf, vous pouvez les imprimer tels quels en cliquant sur l'icône appropriée, pour les enregistrer en format pdf, il vous faudra utiliser une imprimante virtuelle. Bon tricot!

Benedetta 13.11.2017 - 20:23:

Buonasera, sono a cm 65 cm,taglia S.Devo aumentare 45 m ma non riesco a capire se devo aumentare sul dir o sul rov. La spiegazione dice che gli aumenti sono sul dir ma non è chiaro dalle indicazioni (aggiustato in modo che l'ultimo f sia sul dir del lavoro).Grazie x il vostro aiuto

DROPS Design 14.11.2017 kl. 09:59:

Buongiorno Benedetta. Molto probabilmente le istruzioni sono corrette: quindi si aumentano le 45 m sul rovescio, e al ferro successivo, sul diritto del lavoro, si impostano le coste. Se preferisce, può aumentare le maglie su un ferro sul diritto del lavoro, lavorare il ferro di ritorno sul rovescio e al ferro successivo sul diritto del lavoro, inizia le coste 2 m dir / 2 m rov. Buon lavoro!

Carola 06.07.2016 - 17:37:

Annettte: Es sollte heissen " 1 M. links".

Annette 06.07.2016 - 16:24:

Hallo, in der ersten Reihe (Rückreihe) werden 8 M Kraus rechts gestrickt, dann 1 Masche rechts, dann folgt das Muster A1, zum Schluss wieder 8 M Kraus rechts. Meine Frage: wie - und wo - wird die einzelne Rechte Masche in den folgenden Reihen gestrickt? Wird diese immer am Anfang einer Reihe gestrickt oder immer an der gleichen Stelle - also einmal am Anfang und in der nächsten Reihe am Ende? Vielen Dank!

DROPS Design 09.07.2016 kl. 15:04:

Liebe Annette, die Masche wird immer an dieser Stelle gestrickt und sie dient dazu, dass das Muster symmetrisch wird. Wenn Sie das Diagramm anschauen, sehen Sie, dass am Anfang (rechte Seite) eine Masche mehr ist - diese wird durch die Masche in glatt rechts am Ende des letzten Mustersatzes (oder eben in der Rück-R vor dem ersten Mustersatz) ausgeglichen.

Ann 06.06.2016 - 18:10:

When I am binding off the sleeve, do I bind off 4 stitches at the beginning and end of the row or just the beginning? It says to bind off 4sts 4 times in total so that I am left with 18 sts. I have 50 sts now so if I bind off 4 sts 4 times that would leave me with 36 sts not 18. I just can't figure this part out. Please help.

DROPS Design 07.06.2016 kl. 08:53:

Dear Ann, you bind off 4 sts at the beg of the row on each side a total of 4 times, you will bind off 4 sts on each side a total of times x 2 sides = 4x4x2= 32 sts bound off. 50-32=18 sts remain. Happy knitting!

Sandra 06.06.2016 - 18:03:

When sewing the sleeve do I sew it so that the edging done in garter stitch on the body part is visible from the outside of the sweater or is sewn on the inside of the sleeve and is not visible? Thanks.

DROPS Design 07.06.2016 kl. 07:52:

Dear Sandra, the garter sts at the armhole have to be visible. See here a video on how to sew sleeves. . Happy knitting!

Sandra 30.05.2016 - 18:38:

When knitting the jacket part, you have to divide the stitches for the left front, right front, etc. It says to knit 53 stitches in stockinette stitch, 7 sts in garter stitch and so on. I'm assuming that because this is done on the RS, I would need to purl the 7 stitches? These are the stitches for the armholes.

DROPS Design 31.05.2016 kl. 08:52:

Dear Sandra, you will work 2 rows in garter sts over the 7 sts under armholes, on 1st row from RS, K the 7 sts, and on next row from WS, K these 7 sts, then on next row from RS the middle of the 7 sts in garter st (K these sts). Happy knitting!

Sandra 30.05.2016 - 13:27:

Hi. When doing the jacket part and it says to work until piece measures 6". Does this mean 6 inches from the beginning of the project or 6 inches from when I start knitting in stockinette stitch? Thank you.

DROPS Design 30.05.2016 kl. 14:10:

Dear Sandra, measure the 6" from the beg of work, ie from cast on edge. Happy knitting!

Mertens Nancy 16.12.2015 - 15:04:

Zou deze vest willen maken met 2 draden drops air garen en met breinaald 10. Hoeveel bollen wol heb ik dan nodig voor de maat S/M?

DROPS Design 17.12.2015 kl. 14:30:

Beste Nancy. Ik zou deze niet met 2 draden, maar 1 draad Air breien, of het wordt te strak. Je kan hier lezen hoe je de hoeveelheid kan berekenen

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