DROPS / 164 / 44

Petunia Cardigan by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket with round yoke and Nordic pattern, worked top down in 2 strands ”Brushed Alpaca Silk” or 1 strand “Melody”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no as-048
Yarn group C+C or D
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
125-150-150-175-200-200 g color no 03, gray
75-75-75-100-100-100 g color no 01, off white
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color no 07, red
25-25-50-50-50-50 g color no 06, coral

Or use:
DROPS MELODY from Garnstudio
150-150-150-200-200-200 g colour no 04, grey
100-100-100-100-100-100 g colour no 01, off white
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 12, cherry
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 13, rose

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 7 mm/US10.75 - or size needed to get 14 sts in stockinette st with 2 strands Brushed Alpaca Silk or 1 strand Melody = 10 cm / 4'' in width.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 6 mm/US 10 - for edges in garter st.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 522: 6-6-7-7-7-7 pieces

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 2.75 $ /25g
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour 2.75 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.25$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

GARTER ST (worked in the round):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

PATTERN:
Work diagram A.1 and A.2 (choose diagram for correct size and beg on row marked with arrow for correct size). Work entire pattern in stockinette st in 2 strands Brushed Alpaca Silk (= BAS) or 1 strand Melody (= M).

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the knitting gauge to tighten when working pattern on yoke, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Switch to a higher needle no when working pattern if the pattern is somewhat tight.

INCREASE TIP 1:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. On next row work YO twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP 2:
To calculate how often inc should be done on an inc row, use the total no of sts on row, subtract the bands (e.g. 62 sts, subtract 4 band sts in each side = 54 sts) and divide by no of inc to be done (e.g. 12) = 4.5. I.e. in this example inc after alternately every 4th and 5th st.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec on each side of marker as follows: Beg 2 sts before marker, K 2 tog, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec).

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = work until 4 band sts remain on needle (seen from RS), K 3, bind off 1 st by lifting 2nd st over 3rd st and K last st. On next row cast on 1 new st over the bind off st.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures (measured from cast-on edge):
SIZE S: 2, 11, 20, 29, 38 and 47 cm /
3/4",4½",8",11½",15",18½".
SIZE M: 2, 11, 20, 29, 38 and 47 cm /
3/4",4½",8",11½",15",18½".
SIZE L: 2, 10, 18, 26, 34, 42 and 50 cm /
3/4",4",7",10 1/4",13½",16½",19 3/4"
SIZE XL: 2, 10, 18, 26, 34, 42 and 50 cm /
3/4",4",7",10 1/4",13½",16½",19 3/4"
SIZE XXL: 2, 11, 20, 29, 38, 47 and 56 cm /
3/4",4½",8",11½",15",18½",22''
SIZE XXXL: 2, 11, 20, 29, 38, 47 and 56 cm /
3/4",4½",8",11½",15",18½",22''
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JACKET:
Work back and forth on circular needle from mid front, work top down. Work the 4 band sts in each side in base color in pattern on every row until yoke is done, then work bands in gray until finished measurements.

YOKE:
Cast on 62-62-66-66-70-70 sts (includes 4 band sts in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 with 2 strands off white Brushed Alpaca Silk or 1 strand off white Melody. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 7 mm / US 10.75 and K 1 row from RS while inc 12-18-14-17-13-16 sts evenly - READ INCREASE TIP 1 AND INCREASE TIP 2 (do not inc over band sts) and remember BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above = 74-80-80-83-83-86 sts. Work next row as follows from WS: 4 band sts in garter st, work pattern according to diagram A.1 (choose diagram for correct size) until 4 sts remain on row (= 22-24-24-25-25-26 repetitions of 3 sts) and finish with 4 band sts in garter st. Continue pattern like this. READ KNITTING TIP and inc as shown in diagram (= from RS - NOTE: On row with YOs in diagram inc also 1 st after last st before band, work this st as first st in diagram so that pattern beg and ends the same in each side towards mid front) = 97-105-105-109-109-113 sts on needle. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE Then inc as follows (do not inc over bands):
On row marked with arrow-1 in diagram inc 30-34-38-46-50-54 sts evenly - remember INCREASE TIP 2 = 127-139-143-155-159-167 sts.
On row marked with arrow-2 in diagram inc 30-30-34-34-38-38 sts evenly = 157-169-177-189-197-205 sts.
On row marked with arrow-3 in diagram inc 20-20-24-24-28-32 sts evenly = 177-189-201-213-225-237 sts.
On row marked with arrow-4 in diagram inc 12-12-16-20-24-24 sts evenly = 189-201-217-233-249-261 sts.
On row marked with arrow-5 in diagram inc 10-10-14-10-14-14 sts evenly = 199-211-231-243-263-275 sts.
When A.1 has been worked, piece measures approx. 19-21-21-22-23-23 cm / 7½"-8 1/4"-8 1/4"-8 3/4"-9"-9" from cast-on edge. Work next row as follows from RS with 2 strands gray Brushed Alpaca Silk or 1 strand gray Melody: Work the first 31-33-37-40-44-46 sts as before (= left front piece), slip the next 41-43-45-45-47-49 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-6-8-8-8 new sts on needle (= under sleeve), work the next 55-59-67-73-81-85 sts (= back piece), slip the next 41-43-45-45-47-49 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-6-8-8-8 new sts on needle (= under sleeve), and work the remaining 31-33-37-40-44-46 sts as before (= right front piece).

BODY:
= 129-137-153-169-185-193 sts. Insert 1 marker, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! P 1 row from RS with gray and 4 band sts in garter st in each side. Work next row as follows from RS: 4 band sts as before, work pattern according to diagram A.2 until 5 sts remain on row, work first st in A.2 (so that pattern beg and ends the same in each side towards mid front) and finish with 4 band sts in garter st. After A.2 work with gray until finished measurements (2 strands Brushed Alpaca Silk/1 strand Melody). Work until piece measures 35-35-37-38-39-41 cm / 13 3/4"-13 3/4"-14½"-15"-15 1/4"-16". Approx. 2 cm / 3/4'' remain until finished measurements, try the jacket on for desired length. Switch to circular needle size 6 mm / US 10. Work 4 ridges (1st row = RS) and LOOSELY bind off. Jacket measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26'' from shoulder.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Slip sts from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 7 mm / US 10.75. K 1 round with gray and cast on 6-6-6-8-8-8 new sts at the end of round = 47-49-51-53-55-57 sts. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the 6-6-6-8-8-8 new sts (= mid under sleeve) and insert 1 marker in the middle st on round (= mid on top of sleeve) – NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Work pattern in the round according to diagram A.2 (st with star in diagram should fit with st with marker mid on top of sleeve – count outwards from where round beg). When piece measures 2-2-3-3-4-4 cm / ¾''-¾''-1 1/8''-1 1/8''1½''-1½'', dec on each side of marker mid under sleeve - READ DECREASE TIP (= 2 sts dec). Repeat dec every 5½-5-4-4-3½-3½ cm / 2 1/4"-2"-1½"-1½"-1 1/4"-1 1/4" a total of 7-8-9-9-10-10 times = 33-33-33-35-35-37 sts. AT THE SAME TIME after A.2 work with gray until finished measurements (2 strands Brushed Alpaca Silk/1 strand Melody). Work until piece measures 43-42-42-42-42-42 cm / 17"-16½"-16½"-16½"-16½"-16½" (NOTE: Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders). Approx. 2 cm / 3/4'' remain until finished measurements, try the jacket on for desired length. Switch to double pointed needles size 6 mm / US 10. Work 4 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above and LOOSELY bind off, sleeve measures approx. 45-44-44-44-44-44 cm / 17 3/4"-17 1/4"-17 1/4"-17 1/4"-17 1/4"-17 1/4". Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew the buttons on to the left band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= 2 strands off white BAS or 1 strand off white M
= 2 strands grey BAS or 1 strand grey M
= 2 strands red BAS or 1 strand cherry M
= 2 strands coral BAS or 1 strand rose M
= 1 YO between 2 sts with 2 strands off white BAS or 1 strand off white M, on next row P YOs twisted to avoid holes
= increase row
= mid st


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 164-44) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (14)

Wenche Knutsen 27.10.2016 - 13:54:

Har strikket jakken til min datter. Den er nydelig! Det var uvant å strikke ovenfra og ned, men nå kan jeg det og!

Erna Pretorius 18.10.2016 - 11:38:

Hi Please could you tell me : where do I find the measurements for the different sizes S M L etc? Thanks!

DROPS Design 18.10.2016 kl. 11:47:

Dear Mrs Pretorius, you will find a measurement chart at the bottom of the pattern with all measurements taken flat from side to side for each size, compare these to a similar garment you like the shape to find out the matching size. Read more here. Happy knitting!

Pia Dirks 09.12.2015 - 23:57:

Ik kom er niet uit bij de Petunia cardigan. Wat een prachtig vest. De hoeveelheid wol in 2 draden alpaca is hetzelfde als breien met 1 draad melody...dus ergens klopt er iets niet...Hoeveel heb ik nodig bij 2 draden alpaca en hoeveel bij 1 draad melody?!

DROPS Design 10.12.2015 kl. 14:40:

Hoi Pia. De hoeveelheid is niet gelijk. Brushed Alpaca is 25 gr bollen en loopt 140 m per 25 gr. Melody loopt 140 m per 50 gr.

Eleanor 14.11.2015 - 15:25:

Sorry I think I have worked it out! I thought the 6 cast on stitches for each under sleeve were put on the circular needles and formed part of the sleeves. Are these cast on stitches actually part of the body?

DROPS Design 16.11.2015 kl. 09:15:

Dear Eleanor, yes correct, these sts are part of the body, you will then cast on 6 sts for sleeve when working sleeve later, and these 6 sts (from body + from sleeve) will be then sewn tog on underarm. Happy knitting!

Eleanor 14.11.2015 - 15:19:

I am making size medium. After removing stitches onto stitch holders for the sleeves I have 125 stitches left for the body, not 137. According to the pattern, the stitches remaining for the body are 33 for the front, 59 for the back, and 33 for the other front. I make that 125. Thank you

DROPS Design 16.11.2015 kl. 09:14:

Dear Eleanor, in size M you should have 137 sts including the s ts cast on under arm (armhole): 33+6+59+6+33=137 sts. When you put the 43 sts for sleeve on a st holder, you cast on for body 6 sts for under arm, these sts belong to the body. Happy knitting!

Kristine 16.10.2015 - 11:28:

Hej Drops Jeg er lige gået i gang med den fine cardigan. OG kan ikke rigtig finde ud af om tøjen skal være strikket ret/vrang frem og tilbage. Men på billedet ligner det at den er stikket ret/ret ... Og kanmaskerne så er vrang, og ikke ret som jeg har forstået i opskriften.

DROPS Design 16.10.2015 kl. 15:29:

Hej Kristine, De første 4 pinde strikker du ret på hver pind (= retstrik), efter dem fortsætter du ret fra retsiden og vrang fra vrangen (= glatstrik) Kantmaskerne strikker du i retstrik. God fornøjelse!

Lillian Sølvsten 01.10.2015 - 13:48:

Hvis man gerne vil strikke i Drops Air, skal man så strikke med 1 eller 2 tråde ? Garnet ser umiddelbart noget tykkere ud.

DROPS Design 01.10.2015 kl. 16:44:

Hej DROPS Air har samme tykkelse som DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk (garngruppe C) og du skal derfor bruge 2 tråde for at få 14 m på 10 cm hvis du vælger DROPS Air. God fornøjelse!

Mz 20.06.2015 - 06:44:

This is pretty! I want to make this and wear it! Yayyyyyy Brushed Alpaca Silk!

Hortensia 19.06.2015 - 23:06:

Perfecto. Muy elegante

Jytte Rasmussen 11.06.2015 - 14:50:

Flot og elegant :-):-):-)

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